I only read as far as about half of your first sentence. I didn't need to read 
further as it was obvious you had missed the point of the question. 

Jack

--- On Mon, 4/5/10, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote:

> From: Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Define "blown out" :-)
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <[email protected]>
> Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 12:05 PM
> On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Jack
> Davis <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> > I'll offer mine the nebulous term by saying that if at
> least some surface areas are rendered featureless by virtue
> of being too bright, I'd consider those areas "blown out."
> Many images can tolerate a certain amount of this condition,
> but it's amount is the criteria and varies with each viewer.
> Said areas must, of course, contain some available mask
> detail which defines the surface.
> > IOW, I'm not talking about an absolute ball of glare
> wherein no detail is discernible.
> 
> There's nothing nebulous about "blown out". Consider areas
> of pure
> white with no detail as Zone 9 on the Zone System
> scale  defined as
> follows:
> 
> Zone 0 – key black or pure black – carbon or photo
> paper black.
> Zone 1 – near black – shadows in faint light or rooms
> without light.
> Zone 2 – dark gray/black – only subtle textures are
> visible.
> Zone 3 – very dark gray – distinct shadow texture is
> visible.
> Zone 4 – medium dark gray – slightly darker “black”
> skin, dark foliage
> or shadows in landscapes.
> Zone 5 – medium gray or 18% gray – darker “white”
> skin or lighter
> “black skin,” light foliage or the dark blue of a clear
> blue sky.
> Zone 6 – mid-tone gray – average “white” skin or
> shaded areas in snow
> on a bright, sunlit day.
> Zone 7 – light gray – pale “white” skin, a concrete
> walkway in sunlight.
> Zone 8 – gray/white, near white – distinct highlight
> detail, like a
> white wall in sunlight or brilliant surfaces in flat
> light.
> Zone 9 – known as key white or pure white – pure white
> paper or snow
> in bright sunlight.
> 
> (Normally I think of the Zones as being from 1-10, but
> Ansel was a C
> programmer and did a 0-based count ... ;-)
> 
> So, by definition, anything you want detail in is "blown
> out" if your
> exposure has placed it above Zone 8 on the above scale.
> 
> Since I've never seen any application use 16-bit number
> scales to
> describe pixel values, you can determine what areas of your
> image are
> "blown out" in Photoshop or Lightroom using either a
> percentage scale
> or an 8-bit pixel value scale and floating the cursor over
> white-looking areas while looking at the information
> display panel.
> Presuming that the exposure did not go to saturation and
> there is data
> in those bright areas, you can place them in adjustment
> using the
> Exposure (aka white point) sliders. This table makes it
> easy ...
> 
> http://homepage.mac.com/godders/zone-system-numbers.jpg
> 
> EG: you have a near blown out area in a photo that you want
> to ensure
> images with detail on screen and in your prints. Float the
> cursor over
> it in Lightroom and see that it is currently at about 94%
> in all
> channels (or in one of them if that is the significant
> color of the
> area). Nudge the Exposure slider in the negative direction
> until it is
> in the range of about 85-88% to set that as the brightest
> point. Now
> make adjustments with the mid-tone, black point and Tone
> Panel to
> bring the rest of the photo into line with a satisfactory
> display.
> 
> A certain amount of area at Zone 9 is fine, as long as it's
> not where
> you wanted to convey detail. Too much Zone 9 in an image
> generally
> looks bad. Another thing to be aware of is that many papers
> and
> monitor screens cannot display the full 10 zone scale very
> well, or
> have non-linear characteristics ... That's why calibration,
> profiling
> and testing for DR are essential to good quality image
> display,
> whether on screen or on paper.
> -- 
> Godfrey
>   godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com
> 
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