For $300 you could buy a used k-7 that has probably a lot less clicks.
That's what I would do. My older k-7 needed a new sensor, some
switches and I figured it was cheaper just to outright replace it, and
it was. Plus I got a shiny new looking body. I too had a tripod fall
with a k-5 and my beloved 12-24. I cracked the mount on the lens, but
the optics seem OK. I warped the mount on my K-5. I replaced the
bayonet riOIng on the k-5, but eventually the sensor started to die.
I'm sending it in since its under warranty, but worried CRIS will just
charge me for a new sensor due to the body looking a little beat up.
In that case, it would make more sense to buy another used one I
think. The cost would be similar. The 12-24 I have just needs longer
screws. It seems to be some unspoken secret what size screws pentax
uses on their lens mounts. Multiple inquiries have resulted in
nothing. All I need is the diameter....


So back to your problems:

1. You can get a used k-5 for $500 and a new one for a bit more.
Certainly something to consider. I very much miss mine. The high iso
capability of that camera is pretty amazing. if you are willing to
spend $300, consider at least a k-7 like I said. It is a very nice
body and you know what the k20/k-7 sensor is capable of. It's
certainly a step up from what you are using now IMO.

2. Lots of things could be out of alignment if you physically tore the
mount off of your body's internal chassis. That's a pretty serious
blow. I wouldn't really trust a body after that, especially with my
k-5 experience. I don't know if the sensor dying was my fault or not.
It took many thousands of clicks to show up, so I'm thinking I might
just have a bad sensor. Looks like the readout circuit is failing. If
it were a new camera it would be more worth fixing, but used k20s are
pretty darned cheap anymore to be honest.

3. If you have a good body (k-01 you say?) test your lens and pixel
peep. If it looks uniformly sharp across the frame then your elements
are probably still in alignment. That's a pretty tough lens. Shoot
some brick walls at wide apertures and judge how sharp everything is.
If one corner is a lot sharper than another on a flat surface then you
might have a problem. Those lenses are going for $5-6 used, so even
fixing one is worthwhile. If your pictures look good and nothings
rattling inside you are likely fine. Does the AF and zoom still feel
ok?

4. From what I have heard CRIS does a pretty amazing job and will fix
everything that is wrong. You pay the price for it, but they do
quality work.

Hope that helps.

On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 1:40 PM, John <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 8/17/2013 10:07 PM, P.J. Alling wrote:
>
>>>
>>> 4. Any stories of experiences with getting this kind of damage
>>> repaired, especially by CRIS?
>>
>> No but I've got a similar issue.  The card door on my K20D is broken and
>> the viewfinder glass is cracked, I figure repair would be about what the
>> camera is worth.  It's still usable by holding the door closed with
>> tape, but changing cards is a PITA.  I keep debating weather to send it
>> in for repair, or simply put that money towards a new K-5.
>>
>
> The guy who fixed your Vivitar lens can probably get parts to replace the
> card door.
>
> The door on my *ist-D just fell off one day while I was walking through the
> woods. Fortunately I heard it & hadn't taken too many steps before figuring
> out what happened so I was able to search through the leaf litter on the
> ground to find it (it would happen when I was out trying to shoot fall
> color).
>
> My local repair guy was able to get replacement parts from Pentax & duct
> tape held the old door in place until the parts arrived.
>
>
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