I have a three stage strategy, depending on how quickly a scene is likely to
vanish (e.g., a street scene just happens, no time to think…) or how quickly
the light is changing.
Stage 1a: let the camera do the work. It does quite well in most situations.
1b: depending on lighting situation, I sometimes set (and forget) a
plus or minus exposure of anywhere from .5 to 2.0 stops.
Stage 2: Camera on tripod, compose, use RGB Histogram display to warn of likely
blown highlights. Obviously this is for static situation, e.g. macro of flowers.
Stage 3: Could be situations like either of the above, but just to be safe I
might braket ± 1 stop. Which mostly serves to triple the amount of storage
needed for the batch of images or doubles/triples the number of images to
delete, but does occasionally give me a better starting point for
post-processing.
stan
> On Mar 9, 2020, at 11:39 AM, Larry Colen <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I’m curious how people go about setting and checking exposure. My early
> pentax DSLRs were really bad at metering, so I just got in the habit of
> always checking the histogram. Blownout highlights really annoy me. I also
> ran into an interesting metering issue with flowers and other saturated
> colors, in that the metering isn’t color sensitive so that I’d blow out one
> or two of the channels (usually red) while everything else had plenty of
> lattitude.
>
> I have gotten to the point that if I’m not shooting action and running up
> against the K-1s miserable buffering, I’ll just bracket nominal and under by
> a couple of stops for safety, and not having to worry about it. Most of the
> time the dynamic range on the later sensors is so good, that running a bit
> under on the raw images is no problem at all.
>
> How do other people deal with this?
>
>
> --
> Larry Colen
> [email protected]
>
>
>
>
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