Agreed. Altering exposure in RAW conversion Is a simple matter. Excessive fiddling is a waste of time.
Paul > On Mar 11, 2020, at 5:55 AM, Alan C <[email protected]> wrote: > > Everything you say is probably quite true but I find it is easy enough to do > any corrections at the PP stage so I don't get too carried away with the > technicalities. Bracketing everything is a solution but it must shorten the > life of the camera & triples the editing process, not to mention the storage > space needed. > > Alan C > >> On 10-Mar-20 04:41 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote: >> Proper exposure differs based on scene, intent, specific camera/sensor >> capabilities, and is affected by the metering calibration of whatever >> measurement device you're using. For example: Most flowers and a lot of >> foliage reflect high in the IR range, that's what insects see, and many >> digital sensors are a little hot in the near-IR range too. This is why you >> often get a lot of clipping on the red channel with a standard measurement >> on flowers. >> >> For me, the solution is always practice and experience. I experiment working >> with a particular subject, camera, and meter combination until I know what >> to expect, tweak settings based on that. Since I capture raw files only >> about 99% of the time, I calibrate my eye and intent to a somewhat different >> standard than the typical camera metering says (:: in-camera meters are >> usually calibrated for JPEG capture and tend to protect highlights too much, >> causing underexposure in the shadow regions; my most typical correction for >> average scenes NOT flowers is +.3 to +.7 EV compensation). But that varies a >> bit depending upon exactly what camera I'm using. >> >> The other thing I practice quite a lot is to observe the scenes I'm shooting >> and try to understand the dynamic range of the scene vs the sensor's >> capabilities. I want to know before I press the button what I'm willing to >> lose if a scene has a high contrast characteristic, and do it by intent. >> >> Another factor in proper exposure situations is the sensor dynamic range. In >> sunlit situations, when you can use relatively low ISO settings, you have >> the most DR and can rely upon latitude in processing to pull up shadows the >> best. In low light situations when you need high ISO settings to enable >> sharp captures, DR becomes more limited and you have to choose more >> carefully what is included, what range you're going to clip to black and >> what highlights you're going to lose. >> >> As Doug said, in the end "it depends" is the best answer. Along with a lot >> of practice and time spent studying what works for your setup, your >> subjects, and your intent... :) >> >> G >> >> >>>> On Mar 9, 2020, at 8:39 AM, Larry Colen <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>> I’m curious how people go about setting and checking exposure. My early >>> pentax DSLRs were really bad at metering, so I just got in the habit of >>> always checking the histogram. Blownout highlights really annoy me. I >>> also ran into an interesting metering issue with flowers and other >>> saturated colors, in that the metering isn’t color sensitive so that I’d >>> blow out one or two of the channels (usually red) while everything else had >>> plenty of lattitude. >>> >>> I have gotten to the point that if I’m not shooting action and running up >>> against the K-1s miserable buffering, I’ll just bracket nominal and under >>> by a couple of stops for safety, and not having to worry about it. Most of >>> the time the dynamic range on the later sensors is so good, that running a >>> bit under on the raw images is no problem at all. >>> >>> How do other people deal with this? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Larry Colen >>> [email protected] >> > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
