My typical correction for "NOT flowers" is about the same, and blows out flowers. What is your typical correction for flowers?
Dan Matyola *https://tinyurl.com/DJM-Pentax-Gallery <https://tinyurl.com/DJM-Pentax-Gallery>* On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 10:42 AM Godfrey DiGiorgi <[email protected]> wrote: > Proper exposure differs based on scene, intent, specific camera/sensor > capabilities, and is affected by the metering calibration of whatever > measurement device you're using. For example: Most flowers and a lot of > foliage reflect high in the IR range, that's what insects see, and many > digital sensors are a little hot in the near-IR range too. This is why you > often get a lot of clipping on the red channel with a standard measurement > on flowers. > > For me, the solution is always practice and experience. I experiment > working with a particular subject, camera, and meter combination until I > know what to expect, tweak settings based on that. Since I capture raw > files only about 99% of the time, I calibrate my eye and intent to a > somewhat different standard than the typical camera metering says (:: > in-camera meters are usually calibrated for JPEG capture and tend to > protect highlights too much, causing underexposure in the shadow regions; > my most typical correction for average scenes NOT flowers is +.3 to +.7 EV > compensation). But that varies a bit depending upon exactly what camera I'm > using. > > The other thing I practice quite a lot is to observe the scenes I'm > shooting and try to understand the dynamic range of the scene vs the > sensor's capabilities. I want to know before I press the button what I'm > willing to lose if a scene has a high contrast characteristic, and do it > by intent. > > Another factor in proper exposure situations is the sensor dynamic range. > In sunlit situations, when you can use relatively low ISO settings, you > have the most DR and can rely upon latitude in processing to pull up > shadows the best. In low light situations when you need high ISO settings > to enable sharp captures, DR becomes more limited and you have to choose > more carefully what is included, what range you're going to clip to black > and what highlights you're going to lose. > > As Doug said, in the end "it depends" is the best answer. Along with a lot > of practice and time spent studying what works for your setup, your > subjects, and your intent... :) > > G > > > > On Mar 9, 2020, at 8:39 AM, Larry Colen <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I’m curious how people go about setting and checking exposure. My early > pentax DSLRs were really bad at metering, so I just got in the habit of > always checking the histogram. Blownout highlights really annoy me. I > also ran into an interesting metering issue with flowers and other > saturated colors, in that the metering isn’t color sensitive so that I’d > blow out one or two of the channels (usually red) while everything else had > plenty of lattitude. > > > > I have gotten to the point that if I’m not shooting action and running > up against the K-1s miserable buffering, I’ll just bracket nominal and > under by a couple of stops for safety, and not having to worry about it. > Most of the time the dynamic range on the later sensors is so good, that > running a bit under on the raw images is no problem at all. > > > > How do other people deal with this? > > > > > > -- > > Larry Colen > > [email protected] > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and > follow the directions. > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
