For the 10 years that I have had my H4, the brakes have been to say the least 
underwhelming, in fact almost "underlorrying" on some occasions - a lot of free 
pedal movement and far too much effort for the level of retention achieved.  

Over the last year I have experimented with shimming out the fulcrum end of the 
shoes and the results are quite dramatic as far as braking is concerned - first 
there is less free movement and now I get really good progressive braking but 
even now it cannot be described as earth shattering compared say to the 
astoundingly good braking on Trish's Micra - smaller brakes, smaller servo.  I 
have replaced the front discs, all pads and shoes and have noted a degree of 
ovality in the rear drums.

What does all this mean?  In brief it is a matter of the geometry of the system 
such that the radius of curvature of the shoes does not match that of the drums 
and by shimming out the fulcrum the shoes now first contact nearer to the 
fulcrum giving a potential of more contact between shoe and drum as the braking 
pressure is increased.  The first efforts at this were encouraging to the 
extent that I turned up a mandrel on which to mount the drums and then skimmed 
them to remove the considerable ovality, ~ 0.3 mm on diameter for each drum.  
This then required further shimming of the fulcrum to get back to my previous 
"Good" state with the knowledge that I had actually worsened the situation with 
regard to mismatch of radii.  As the shoes now bed in to the drums the brakes 
are getting better!

If anyone is contemplating following this approach should do so with extreme 
caution as the shoes get very near the edge of the retainer bar at the fulcrum 
at the stage where most effect is achieved. Check that the spring retainers for 
the shoes are working effectively and have not rusted away.  N.B. The brakes 
come with hardened steel shims of ~ 0.5 mm thickness, around 2 or 3 on each 
side of the fulcrum block.  I have now replaced these with custom-made shims of 
~3.5 mm thickness each side for best effect but each situation will differ.  My 
yardstick for effective shimming was to very lightly abrade each shoe with 
emery at right angles to the shoe then drive round and note how much of the 
shoe was now bedding - i.e. a very traditional and long-winded "suck it and 
see" method.  I have gone from ~ 5% contact at the furthest point away from the 
fulcrum to nearer 75% from the fulcrum end with potential for further gains as 
the brakes bed in.

One characteristic that I have never been able to eliminate is the sponginess 
of the brakes.  I have bled them by conventional means, with pressure bleeders 
and even tried the old trick of wedging the brake pedal down overnight before 
bleeding them again next day, both facing up and down our 30° drive and 
including car ramps to increase the angle up to 45°, all to no avail - has 
anyone else managed to overcome this problem?

Hamish
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: skip_rat 
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 9:00 AM
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: RS2000 front brakes on a H4 & Rear suspension.


  The main issue I have with the brakes are that it seems to require a
  huge ammount of effort to slow/stop the car. They seem much worse than
  the 2+2 we used to have. There isn't a huge ammount of pedal travel
  but you seem to have to press really hard to get much response. I had
  a basic brake test done and they seem to be working well enough and
  would lock up on the rollers. I think the pads I used were AP/
  lockheed(?), the disks are standard and fairly new with no scores/wear
  lip.

  I was also considering a servo upgrade, are there any options for
  this?


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