Good point. A good custom builder should at least know what size
crank the buyer intends to use. Depending on the level of
communication before the build, the builder may know how the rider
pedals.
On Feb 5, 12:42 am, Philip Williamson <philip.william...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Feb 4, 12:18 pm, CycloFiend <cyclofi...@earthlink.net> wrote:> on 2/4/10
> 8:28 AM, Rene at valbu...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> ...
> > You could probably measure the BB to front axle distance, and see if there
> > was a consistency in what size caused the issue. The variables would be
> > wheel size, tire size, fender standoff (gap from tire), fender thickness,
> > shoe size (literally, the materal thickness at the toe), foot position with
> > relation to pedal spindle (i.e. how much "meat" is in front of the spindle,
>
> ...
>
> Two more variables - foot angle and crank length. The angle of your
> toe up or down ("pitch?") affects your TCO. I can go from a full inch
> of overlap to none just by tilting my size 12s up or down. Employee
> sizing a bike: "So, what's your PBH? Okay. How do you pedal? What's
> the yaw, roll and pitch of your foot when pedaling normally? What do
> you mean 'what?' You know: Yaw! Pitch! Roll!"
>
> I have fat knobbies and metal fenders on my (fixed) 60cm Quickbeam,
> and I hit the fender stays sometimes at slow speeds. When I had 175mm
> cranks on the bike, I hit the fender all the time. That's not why I
> took them off the bike, but I probably wouldn't put them back on,
> either.
>
> Philip
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