I'll take the opposite argument, though you partly made it yourself:  For 
fatter tires to work well, the air pressure is *extremely* critical, and 
even minute differences make a huge difference.   I adjust for every ride 
but, to me, that's still less hassle than dealing with negative and 
positive air pressure, rebound settings, lockout valving and maintenance on 
a suspension fork though.  

But equally important are geometry, tire selection, and tire-to-rim-width 
selection!

I have a half dozen or more mountain bikes in the garage, and the ONLY one 
i ever want to ride on any kind of technical or off road trail these days 
is my Jones with a 3" rear tire and a 4.8" front tire.  There's nothing 
weird about the handling at all, on soft surfaces.  It took me trying two 
front rims, three rear tires and four front tires to find the combination 
that worked perfectly though.  Some front tires had the worst self-steer 
characteristics that I've ever felt, and some just weren't big enough 
volume. I think the low trail fork, compensating for the added pneumatic 
trail of the fat tire, is a big difference.   Similar differences with 
rolling resistance.  Still, I do understand your experience because I have 
another full fat bike that I'm forced to ride 7 months a year.  I kind of 
hate it actually, but it gets me outside in the winter.

No fat tire is great on pavement, but that's not an issue where I live.  On 
the other hand - and this may again be a function of my trails and my 
weight, but 2.8" @ 14psi seems to be the magic numbers below which 
traction, comfort and pinch flats all suffer.   I would NEVER, ever again 
buy a mountain bike that didn't give me the option of at least 3".  
(Rivendell excepted - but that's a bit different and I'm sort of 
anticipating an all-rounder that i'm unlikely to abuse the same way as 
another mountain bike.)  Meanwhile the other bikes I have my eye on and am 
most likes to actually buy are a Kona Wozo for a hardtail and a Lenz 
Fattilac for a full-suspension.  Other than XC speed - which I care nothing 
about - there's just zero advantage to a tire less than 2.8" for me and for 
my kind of riding.  (which i should point out again is NOT reckless, 
trail-shredding, bro-bra stuff.)

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 11:07:40 AM UTC-6, Ryan M. wrote:
>
> You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've 
> ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling 
> resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue 
> but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the 
> bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding 
> the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it 
> was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I 
> wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire 
> pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following 
> though, but they aren't for me. 
>
> On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the 
> rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the 
> gravel roads around me. 
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it 
>> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or, 
>> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a 
>> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at 
>> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just 
>> isn't fat enough.
>>
>> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare 
>> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>>
>

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