You didn't say what kind of shifters you are using, but from other info I presume it is a friction system. That's good because they are much easier to adjust, and fixing the derailler should be done before bothering to try and repair the chainstay. Set the chain on the biggest cog and the smallet ring and adjust the limit screw so the chain just barely clears the inside of the derailler, no more than 0.5mm. Your pedal stroke will tend to pull the chain away from contact there. Then, the first couple of time you ride, carry a small screwdriver and if you find the chain doesn't want to drop down, open the screw up 1/8 of a turn. Unless the limit screw is moving that should fix the problem.
Pulling a crank looks more intimidating than it is. But given that you don't have any tools you might consider going to a bike shop and having them install self extracting bolts. These can be removed with a 6 mm allen key. If you don't want to do that you will need an extractor, and either an 8 mm allen key or bolt wrench, depending on the crank design. If you have an octalink crank you will also need a small plug that goes between the extractor and the crank. Remove the chain, take out the bolt with the 8 mm key, thread the extractor into the crank, then turn the extractor into the crank with a 15 mm(??) wrench. When you reinstall, grease the crank, and then tighten down the bolts really good; at the least you'll want an allen key that gives you some leverage. Be not afraid. michael On May 24, 9:48 pm, Joe S <[email protected]> wrote: > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it. I ride it nearly > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work. > > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front > derailleur was not set correctly. It took throwing the chain off onto > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath > of about 1/2 inch. I haven't done anything to it other than to keep > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in > rain, I can see rust on the surface. There isn't a lot of room > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the > crank. I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a > deadline looming. What is the best way to contain the rust? Can it > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)? > > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my > LBS. I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank. This > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust. It seems to be > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear? I recall > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay > once set correctly? Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution? > > Thanks for your advice. > > Joe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
