If you just wanted to do the bare minimum to make yourself feel better about the rust on your tour, and don't want to get into a crankpuller, then just do something to keep air and moisture off the metal. You should be able to wrap the chainstay with tape (electrical tape, cloth handlebar tape) without taking the crank arm off. Rust stops in the absence of oxygen. Cover it up and you'll slow that way down. Then deal with it properly when you get back.
That said, you should know how to pull a crank arm. It doesn't happen terribly often but there are roadside repairs that require a crank puller. I'd recommend one like this: http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7 That you can bring with you in your kit. You just need to carry a 4" crescent wrench as well, which I always bring touring also. On May 24, 6:48 pm, Joe S <[email protected]> wrote: > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it. I ride it nearly > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work. > > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front > derailleur was not set correctly. It took throwing the chain off onto > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath > of about 1/2 inch. I haven't done anything to it other than to keep > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in > rain, I can see rust on the surface. There isn't a lot of room > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the > crank. I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a > deadline looming. What is the best way to contain the rust? Can it > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)? > > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my > LBS. I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank. This > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust. It seems to be > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear? I recall > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay > once set correctly? Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution? > > Thanks for your advice. > > Joe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
