you could never touch that *surface* rust and still wouldn't have issue for at least 15 years, if at all.
that said, I just use simple rustoleum matte black paint every so often to cover up any bare metal and then just cloth tape over the whole chainstay. the latter is a great way of preventing any abuses and slap from adding up too quickly. it also looks like a splint, i've been told. erik On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 10:57 AM, William <[email protected]> wrote: > If you just wanted to do the bare minimum to make yourself feel better > about the rust on your tour, and don't want to get into a crankpuller, > then just do something to keep air and moisture off the metal. You > should be able to wrap the chainstay with tape (electrical tape, cloth > handlebar tape) without taking the crank arm off. Rust stops in the > absence of oxygen. Cover it up and you'll slow that way down. Then > deal with it properly when you get back. > > That said, you should know how to pull a crank arm. It doesn't happen > terribly often but there are roadside repairs that require a crank > puller. I'd recommend one like this: > > > http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7 > > That you can bring with you in your kit. You just need to carry a 4" > crescent wrench as well, which I always bring touring also. > > > > On May 24, 6:48 pm, Joe S <[email protected]> wrote: > > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it. I ride it nearly > > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work. > > > > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front > > derailleur was not set correctly. It took throwing the chain off onto > > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what > > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath > > of about 1/2 inch. I haven't done anything to it other than to keep > > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in > > rain, I can see rust on the surface. There isn't a lot of room > > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm > > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the > > crank. I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank > > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't > > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new > > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a > > deadline looming. What is the best way to contain the rust? Can it > > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)? > > > > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very > > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my > > LBS. I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride > > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank. This > > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust. It seems to be > > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy > > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear? I recall > > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be > > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay > > once set correctly? Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution? > > > > Thanks for your advice. > > > > Joe > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- oakland, ca bikenoir.blogspot.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
