It won't take more than 30 minutes to remove the crank, lightly sand and clean and apply paint or nail polish to the area; you could do it in 10 minutes, in fact, if you were familiar with the tools and operation.
A crank puller is a very useful home mechanic's tool; I'd say spend $20 and do the job right. As for front derailleur adjustment, yes, it can be tricky: you have to get the cage's angle and height as well as the stop screws' position just right. But it can be done; this is, frankly, more of a job than removing the crank. Review Sheldon: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html (rather general) and http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html Not to mention http://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/thread/355156/chain-keeps-falling-off-little-ring On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Joe S <[email protected]> wrote: > I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it. I ride it nearly > every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work. > > When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front > derailleur was not set correctly. It took throwing the chain off onto > the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what > was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath > of about 1/2 inch. I haven't done anything to it other than to keep > checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in > rain, I can see rust on the surface. There isn't a lot of room > between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm > thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the > crank. I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank > puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't > want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new > and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a > deadline looming. What is the best way to contain the rust? Can it > be done without removing the crank (at least for now)? > > BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very > sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my > LBS. I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride > after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank. This > time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust. It seems to be > set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy > triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear? I recall > reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be > loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay > once set correctly? Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution? > > Thanks for your advice. > > Joe > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW [email protected] A billion stars go spinning through the night Blazing high above your head; But in you is the Presence that will be When all the stars are dead. (Rilke, Buddha in Glory) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
