Hi James, I have been wanting to build a stryker for a while, so don't think your all alone in wanting to build a wheeled vehicle. So tell me guys, does anyone know what the scale size of a stryker tire would be? I can only find the profile size etc which means nothing to me as it is a ratio of this to that yada yada, just tell me how many inches, centimeters, millimeters, it is and I'm good to figure the rest out, but no where can I find out. ANY help would be greatly appreciated except p280/r16/..... you know what I mean I may have to get medieval on you behind. Keep us updated James. Greg
On Nov 24, 9:06 am, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > Hey all! > > Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to admit, but > I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. > > To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. However, > I’ve > seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest lies. > And > so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It’s got a nice bulky body to fit all those > moving bit’s that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped armor that > will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor rating (25mm up > front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a 105mm main gun, so > that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little grin) > > http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV... > > Yup: it’s wheeled. I don’t know why, but in a place beyond > all reason, I find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a tracked > one. I know: I have issues. Still, what do you do? > > Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts > simply do not stand up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. Well, > being a complete idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. > > My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some > Nitro RC monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system from > that. > > The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as > they seems of a fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks are > both everywhere, and as any number of UTube videos will document, are nearly > indestructible. > I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 horizontal feet, > land on it’s head, and keep going is probably fairly tough. Additionally, > parts > can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go. > > As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I’ll need parts from 2 RC > monster trucks. I considered merely buying two of them, stripping what I need > and Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a pop, that > was a bit too much of an initial investment. I’m on a bit of a budget here, as > my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put into > this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I’ve taken the plunge and > purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1 front), > some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of A-Arms (2 > axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a “complete > set” > of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in possession of the above > mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This is about half my > suspension > system. > > “How to get the power to the wheels?” you might ask. Again, > the commercial market comes to the rescue. I’ve seen differentials for the > Traxxas Revo 3.3 going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it costs 6 > times that to build one from your local hobby shop, that’s on the menu for > next > month. > > In total, I’ll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, > obviously): 2 for the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be > cannibalized > into 2 through differentials for the two middle axles. > > Now: Most of the tanks I’ve seen built on the website (Yes, > I’ve looked through every page of every single one) don’t seem to take weight > into account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. Note: I > said “most”. (little winky emoticon) > > My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the > commercial nylon parts (and my lack of fabrication skills…). My assumption is > (and > yes: this may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the vehicle, > the less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have need of > 1 > power source… well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those two > things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less battery > requirements > means less weight means less power requirements means less battery… you get > the > idea. > > As a power source (remember, we’re going for CHEAP quality here) > I’m planning on the tried and true drill motor setup. I’ve seen them tried on > tanks, but the complains are that they just don’t have the power. An issue I > hope to address with light weight. My plan is to find a trashed 18~24 volt > variable speed cordless drill (preferably with a 2 speed planetary > transmission) > at some pawn shop or other place where such things are found. This way, I buy > a > second cheap replacement trigger, a couple light springs, and I’ll have a > reversible, > variable speed vehicle. This idea currently exists only as an idea in my head, > so we’ll see how it works out in practice. Fortunately, many have said I have > a > very imaginative mind, so maybe I haven’t botched everything before it’s even > begun. J > > Regardless, that’s the plan anyway: what do you all think? > > (as to criticisms: please refrain from throwing overly heavy > or sharp and point objects as I have a rather soft head.) > > _________________________________________________________________ > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one > place.http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre... -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
