One of the main problems you would probably find with ACs is the steering linkage, as they are the most fragile bit. If possable I would suggest you get them milled out of some sort of metal.
-Gregory On Wed, Nov 25, 2009 at 8:42 AM, Spitbraaicatering <[email protected]>wrote: > Now you know how to scale it look at lawn mower repair companies. You ought > to find the right scale wheel at an afordable price.... I started building > the rooikat 76mm however after dropping $500 and still was only 1/3 of the > chasis cost... Too many custom parts to machine I decided to build a tank... > Less parts and less hassels. > > Icarus Zulu > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 24 Nov 2009, at 19:56, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > I can probably help you with that one: > You're probably thinking of the Michelin XML. > > "4. Tire Tread: XML > Global Part Number (CAI): 110510 > Description: 395/85 R20 XML TL 161G > Rim Diameter: 20 inches (50.8 cm) > Comments: Principally used on Stryker Infantry Carrier Vehicle" > > As per: > http://www.faqs.org/rulings/rulings2003NYJ81184.html > > You've got a metric size there, so converting it to inches will give you > (on the full size thing anyway): > -20 inch rim > -46.4 inches overall diameter > -15.6 inch width. > > Hopes that helps! > Either way, glad to hear I'm not the only Loony-Toon here! > Maybe we'll have to swap ideas. > > > > Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:38:19 -0800 > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Complete Newbie... > > From: [email protected] > > To: [email protected] > > > > Hi James, I have been wanting to build a stryker for a while, so don't > > think your all alone in wanting to build a wheeled vehicle. > > So tell me guys, does anyone know what the scale size of a stryker > > tire would be? I can only find the profile size etc which means > > nothing to me as it is a ratio of this to that yada yada, just tell me > > how many inches, centimeters, millimeters, it is and I'm good to > > figure the rest out, but no where can I find out. ANY help would be > > greatly appreciated except p280/r16/..... you know what I mean I may > > have to get medieval on you behind. > > Keep us updated James. > > Greg > > > > On Nov 24, 9:06 am, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hey all! > > > > > > Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to > admit, but > > > I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. > > > > > > To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. > However, I’ve > > > seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest > lies. And > > > so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It’s got a nice bulky body to fit all > those > > > moving bit’s that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped armor > that > > > will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor rating > (25mm up front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a 105mm main > gun, so that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little grin) > > > > > > > http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV... > > > > > > Yup: it’s wheeled. I don’t know why, but in a place beyond > > > all reason, I find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a > tracked > > > one. I know: I have issues. Still, what do you do? > > > > > > Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts > > > simply do not stand up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. > Well, > > > being a complete idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. > > > > > > My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some > > > Nitro RC monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system > from > > > that. > > > > > > The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as > > > they seems of a fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks > are > > > both everywhere, and as any number of UTube videos will document, are > nearly indestructible. > > > I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 > horizontal feet, > > > land on it’s head, and keep going is probably fairly tough. > Additionally, parts > > > can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go. > > > > > > As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I’ll need parts from 2 RC > > > monster trucks. I considered merely buying two of them, stripping what > I need > > > and Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a > pop, that > > > was a bit too much of an initial investment. I’m on a bit of a budget > here, as > > > my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put > into > > > this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I’ve taken the plunge > and > > > purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1 > front), > > > some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of > A-Arms (2 > > > axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a > “complete set” > > > of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in possession of the > above > > > mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This is about half my > suspension > > > system. > > > > > > “How to get the power to the wheels?” you might ask. Again, > > > the commercial market comes to the rescue. I’ve seen differentials for > the > > > Traxxas Revo 3.3 going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it > costs 6 > > > times that to build one from your local hobby shop, that’s on the menu > for next > > > month. > > > > > > In total, I’ll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, > > > obviously): 2 for the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be > cannibalized > > > into 2 through differentials for the two middle axles. > > > > > > Now: Most of the tanks I’ve seen built on the website (Yes, > > > I’ve looked through every page of every single one) don’t seem to take > weight > > > into account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. > Note: I > > > said “most”. (little winky emoticon) > > > > > > My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the > > > commercial nylon parts (and my lack of fabrication skills…). My > assumption is (and > > > yes: this may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the > vehicle, > > > the less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have > need of 1 > > > power source… well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those > two > > > things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less > battery requirements > > > means less weight means less power requirements means less battery… you > get the > > > idea. > > > > > > As a power source (remember, we’re going for CHEAP quality here) > > > I’m planning on the tried and true drill motor setup. I’ve seen them > tried on > > > tanks, but the complains are that they just don’t have the power. An > issue I > > > hope to address with light weight. My plan is to find a trashed 18~24 > volt > > > variable speed cordless drill (preferably with a 2 speed planetary > transmission) > > > at some pawn shop or other place where such things are found. This way, > I buy a > > > second cheap replacement trigger, a couple light springs, and I’ll have > a reversible, > > > variable speed vehicle. This idea currently exists only as an idea in > my head, > > > so we’ll see how it works out in practice. Fortunately, many have said > I have a > > > very imaginative mind, so maybe I haven’t botched everything before > it’s even > > > begun. J > > > > > > Regardless, that’s the plan anyway: what do you all think? > > > > > > (as to criticisms: please refrain from throwing overly heavy > > > or sharp and point objects as I have a rather soft head.) > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. > http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre... > > > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > ------------------------------ > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it > now.<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1> > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > -- > This message has been scanned for viruses and > dangerous content by *Pinpoint Securemail*, > and is believed to be clean. > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
