I use a lead screw to control the side to side action in my Stumtiger. Works well, but I don't have any good pics of it with me here in the sandbox. I bought this one:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-327/DC-GEAR-MOTOR-W/LINEAR-SCREW-ASSEMBLY-AND-ENCODER/1.html It is being controlled by a Vantec RET411P ESC: http://www.vantec.com/acatalog/ret.htm . I cut most of the base off to make the mount more compact, but left the mounting brackets as they were to avoid having to remount and align the lead screw and motor assembly. I used a threaded eyehook mounted to the lead screw nut and connected a threaded rod to the gun mount via two clevis yokes. Derek T065 SV016 KV-2 in progress On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 7:11 AM, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > I wish i could draw stuff on my computer to show what i mean. for the > turret I am gonna try some sort of base that is on a pivot point > towards the front of it. On the back is a nut basically, that gets > screwed onto a bolt, and that is turned by a small motor, to give it > transverse. > > Up and down, i was basically gonna do the same thing, but sideways, > and mount the motor to the moving base. > > I don't think now that the v-belt system will work for treads, any > other suggestions for a tank of this type? > > > > On Apr 27, 6:31 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > K, once I start building that part, I'll try to see if I can set that > > up, but use electronics. I was also thinking some sort of chain that > > hung from a cage and attached to the paintball gun. I would use a > > screw drive to push and pull the paintball gun, but since it is on > > that pivot point, it would raise the barrel up or down. To allow for > > transverse, mount that whole on a setup like your swivel in the middle > > of that, and have another to push screw type thing to push and pull > > the whole unit. I think it might be too complicated to get to work, > > and I don't even know that it would work. > > > > For tracks though, would the v belt thing work? I was thinking more on > > it; I could just use 2 and connect them in between with whatever I > > could use for treads, and not have to have the 2 extra wheels for > > each > > axle. It would sort of be like your Tyng track system, but using v > > belts and the pulleys for them, since I definitively can get them > > before I can get a treadmill belt. Since v belts do hold when > > tensioned, but slip when they get locked up, that would save on a > > drive system, so I could use the m1 sprocket type chain for that > > part. > > > > On Apr 27, 1:04 pm, Steve Tyng <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I see your doing a tank destroyer. Review the mount design I did on > > > my 25 pounder field piece: > > > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/eaae. > .. > > > > > Included is a link to a Youtube video of the setup. I've trashed the > > > manual control of the design and am adapting a screw drive setup for > > > traverse and elevate. I'll try to post some pics of that soon. > > > > > Steve Tyng > > > > > On Apr 26, 10:08 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > >http://www.servocity.com/html/spt100_pan___tilt_system.html > > > > > > would that probably be too big to use? > > > > > > On Apr 26, 3:01 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > I could go with the tri pact speed control, but then I would need > the > > > > > turret transverse for precision aiming, which I do not know how to > do. > > > > > I also still haven't fully decided yet on what marker I want to > use, > > > > > and how to control it. I also have to decide on the track and > > > > > suspension system.I am definitively going to use a Cheap Control > > > > > System. > > > > > > > I'm thinking for a track take a notch vbelt and have the track pads > > > > > attached to it on the outside. I will have the pullies inbetween 2 > > > > > wheels for all the drive and idler and road wheels. That way, the > belt > > > > > is what is powered, the pads provide traction, and the wheels are > for > > > > > looks and help with little objects forcing up on the pads. What > does > > > > > any1 think? > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 1:30 pm, Steve Tyng <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > For you first tank I'd recommend sticking with what has been > proven in > > > > > > combat. The M1 motors are your best bet for propulsion. > > > > > > > > http://www.tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106115 > > > > > > > > These can run at 12V just fine and at that voltage will provide a > 3 to > > > > > > 4mph speed. Frank Pittelli can provide you with custom drive > > > > > > sprockets that will adapt the M1's to standard ansi chain. > > > > > > > > For a cheap controller you can build the on/off Tri-Pact > controller: > > > > > > > > > http://rctankcombat.com/articles/speed-control/07TriPactSpeedControl-... > > > > > > > > If you want proportional control I'd recommend bitting the bullet > and > > > > > > get a decent dual channel mixing controller: > > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RP-SWDR.html > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/VT-RDFR33.html > > > > > > > > If those controllers are to much for your budget someday Cheap > Control > > > > > > Systems is supposed to introduce a controller based on generic > scooter > > > > > > controllers but you may have to hold your breath a while for > that. > > > > > > > > Steve Tyng > > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 7:47 am, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I was trying to stay at 12 volts, but all the motors that would > be > > > > > > > powerful enough are 24v, so I'm going to have to have 2 > batteries, > > > > > > > which seems like that would take up an awful lot of space. What > size > > > > > > > is most batteries that are used? I was thinking just a regular > car > > > > > > > battery, but 2 seems to big. > > > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 12:00 am, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > *Occasionally* the Victors and Vantecs come up for sale on > Ebay. That's > > > > > > > > where I got mine. I have an active search on Ebay that > notifies me when > > > > > > > > they come up for sale: "Vantec RDFR*" and "Victor 88*". > Those are the > > > > > > > > search terms I use. I got two Victor 883s for about $150 > shipped and my > > > > > > > > Vantec RDFR38D was also right around $100. But like I said, > they don't come > > > > > > > > up often on Ebay. When they do, I buy them. I'm using (and > a lot of other > > > > > > > > guys) the Unite geared motors like these: > http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106118orthese:http://tncscoote.... > Both are great motors. I > > > > > > > > have two sets of the first type and a set of the second type. > Both types > > > > > > > > work great. You have to keep in mind that an ISU-152 (also > called a > > > > > > > > JSU-152) is a large vehicle in 1/6th scale. It's larger than > my 1/6th scale > > > > > > > > Sturmtiger. > > > > > > > > > > Derek > > > > > > > > T065 > > > > > > > > SV016 > > > > > > > > KV-2 in progress > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, Apr 25, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Weston < > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > True, I put all the prices into an excel spreadsheet and it > comes out > > > > > > > > > to about $750. I still wound need the paintball marker, all > the > > > > > > > > > building materials, the treads and such. I was just looking > there for > > > > > > > > > now, and then gonna look elsewhere to see if I could get > the same > > > > > > > > > stuff or equivalent for less than what they want. I don't > really know > > > > > > > > > much about this stuff, so that is why I'm asking for help. > > > > > > > > > > > On Apr 25, 8:07 pm, Mike Måne <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Those parts seem awefully expencive! You might be able to > improvise > > > > > > > > > > for some of them. Try exploring these sites: > > > > > > > > > > > > All Electronics:http://allelectronics.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > Surplus Centre:https://www.surpluscenter.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > -Mike M. > > > > > > > > > > > > On 25/04/2010, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > I might switch to the ISU-122s variant, it has a ball > shaped manlet > > > > > > > > > > > and a double-baffle muzzle brake, If I decide to make > the turret have > > > > > > > > > > > that 11 degrees of turret transverse. The ISU-122 is > also called > > > > > > > > > > > JSU-122, so I don't know what to look for now, but > wikipedia calls it > > > > > > > > > > > the ISU-122, so I'm gonna stick with that. > > > > > > > > > > > > > I might buy a 1/32 model, and then also use it to lay > out a paint > > > > > > > > > > > scheme before I even start. I would get a scale drawing > at > > > > > > > > > > > AVFNews.org, but you have to buy 5 at $2 each, and I > only need 1. They > > > > > > > > > > > don't have a 1:32 of the ISU-122/JSU-122 , but they > have a 1:48. > > > > > > > > > > > > > I still need to decide if I want turret transverse, so > depending on > > > > > > > > > > > how complicated that is determines if I make the S > variant or not. I > > > > > > > > > > > also have to figure out a paintball gun to use, and how > to fire it. I > > > > > > > > > > > would prefer the .68 caliber since I can find that a > lot around where > > > > > > > > > > > I live for cheap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > The following list of parts is what I am currently > looking at right > > > > > > > > > > > now. I just have to see if it will all fit inside it > once i find some > > > > > > > > > > > specifications. > > > > > > > > > > > > > Control System > > > > > > > > > > >http://www.cheapcontrolsystems.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > DeWalt Motor > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/BP396505-20.html > > > > > > > > > > > DeWalt Gearbox > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/BP397892-05.html > > > > > > > > > > > IFI Victor 883 > > > > > > > > > > >http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-V883.html > > > > > > > > > > > Turret Elevation ESC > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-FT-TINYESC.html > > > > > > > > > > > Turret Elevation Motor > > > > > > > > > > >http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GM11A.html > > > > > > > > > > > Battery > > > > > > > > > > >http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0B-35-925.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" > group. > > > > > > > > > > > To post a message, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to > > > > > > > > > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > > Visit the group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" > group. > > > > > > > > > > To post a message, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > Visit the group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" > group. > > > > > > > > > To post a message, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > > Visit the group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > > > > > > To post a message, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe, send email to > [email protected] > > > > > > > > Visit the group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > ... > > > > read more » > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
