That was sort of what I was thinking of, i was just gonna use a regular bolt and nut attached to a small motor and small ESC to control it, that might work better though. I was also going to use the same concept to make the turret go up and down.
However, I'm going to switch to the ISU-152. It is basically the same thing as the 122, but longer, so i can have more room for my first tank. I can also find a 1/32 scale model that isn't $64.99. I guess it is because the ISU-122 is also the JSU-122 makes it not as popular to be produced as a model as the ISU-152??? I still can not figure out what to use for tracks, I just don't know. They all have there pros and cons, so it is basically up to me, but I can't decide which I want to do, or try to make a modified version of one. I was thinking a dual v-belt for each track with a metal plate attached between, but that might slip too much. I don't know what I can get a hold of for anything else, such as the treadmill belt. On Apr 28, 11:23 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > I use a lead screw to control the side to side action in my Stumtiger. > Works well, but I don't have any good pics of it with me here in the > sandbox. I bought this one: > > http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-327/DC-GEAR-MOTOR... > > It is being controlled by a Vantec RET411P > ESC:http://www.vantec.com/acatalog/ret.htm. > > I cut most of the base off to make the mount more compact, but left the > mounting brackets as they were to avoid having to remount and align the lead > screw and motor assembly. I used a threaded eyehook mounted to the lead > screw nut and connected a threaded rod to the gun mount via two clevis > yokes. > > Derek > T065 > SV016 > KV-2 in progress > > On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 7:11 AM, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > I wish i could draw stuff on my computer to show what i mean. for the > > turret I am gonna try some sort of base that is on a pivot point > > towards the front of it. On the back is a nut basically, that gets > > screwed onto a bolt, and that is turned by a small motor, to give it > > transverse. > > > Up and down, i was basically gonna do the same thing, but sideways, > > and mount the motor to the moving base. > > > I don't think now that the v-belt system will work for treads, any > > other suggestions for a tank of this type? > > > On Apr 27, 6:31 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > K, once I start building that part, I'll try to see if I can set that > > > up, but use electronics. I was also thinking some sort of chain that > > > hung from a cage and attached to the paintball gun. I would use a > > > screw drive to push and pull the paintball gun, but since it is on > > > that pivot point, it would raise the barrel up or down. To allow for > > > transverse, mount that whole on a setup like your swivel in the middle > > > of that, and have another to push screw type thing to push and pull > > > the whole unit. I think it might be too complicated to get to work, > > > and I don't even know that it would work. > > > > For tracks though, would the v belt thing work? I was thinking more on > > > it; I could just use 2 and connect them in between with whatever I > > > could use for treads, and not have to have the 2 extra wheels for > > > each > > > axle. It would sort of be like your Tyng track system, but using v > > > belts and the pulleys for them, since I definitively can get them > > > before I can get a treadmill belt. Since v belts do hold when > > > tensioned, but slip when they get locked up, that would save on a > > > drive system, so I could use the m1 sprocket type chain for that > > > part. > > > > On Apr 27, 1:04 pm, Steve Tyng <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I see your doing a tank destroyer. Review the mount design I did on > > > > my 25 pounder field piece: > > > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/eaae. > > .. > > > > > Included is a link to a Youtube video of the setup. I've trashed the > > > > manual control of the design and am adapting a screw drive setup for > > > > traverse and elevate. I'll try to post some pics of that soon. > > > > > Steve Tyng > > > > > On Apr 26, 10:08 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > >http://www.servocity.com/html/spt100_pan___tilt_system.html > > > > > > would that probably be too big to use? > > > > > > On Apr 26, 3:01 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > I could go with the tri pact speed control, but then I would need > > the > > > > > > turret transverse for precision aiming, which I do not know how to > > do. > > > > > > I also still haven't fully decided yet on what marker I want to > > use, > > > > > > and how to control it. I also have to decide on the track and > > > > > > suspension system.I am definitively going to use a Cheap Control > > > > > > System. > > > > > > > I'm thinking for a track take a notch vbelt and have the track pads > > > > > > attached to it on the outside. I will have the pullies inbetween 2 > > > > > > wheels for all the drive and idler and road wheels. That way, the > > belt > > > > > > is what is powered, the pads provide traction, and the wheels are > > for > > > > > > looks and help with little objects forcing up on the pads. What > > does > > > > > > any1 think? > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 1:30 pm, Steve Tyng <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > For you first tank I'd recommend sticking with what has been > > proven in > > > > > > > combat. The M1 motors are your best bet for propulsion. > > > > > > > > http://www.tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106115 > > > > > > > > These can run at 12V just fine and at that voltage will provide a > > 3 to > > > > > > > 4mph speed. Frank Pittelli can provide you with custom drive > > > > > > > sprockets that will adapt the M1's to standard ansi chain. > > > > > > > > For a cheap controller you can build the on/off Tri-Pact > > controller: > > >http://rctankcombat.com/articles/speed-control/07TriPactSpeedControl-... > > > > > > > > If you want proportional control I'd recommend bitting the bullet > > and > > > > > > > get a decent dual channel mixing controller: > > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RP-SWDR.html > > > > > > > http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/VT-RDFR33.html > > > > > > > > If those controllers are to much for your budget someday Cheap > > Control > > > > > > > Systems is supposed to introduce a controller based on generic > > scooter > > > > > > > controllers but you may have to hold your breath a while for > > that. > > > > > > > > Steve Tyng > > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 7:47 am, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I was trying to stay at 12 volts, but all the motors that would > > be > > > > > > > > powerful enough are 24v, so I'm going to have to have 2 > > batteries, > > > > > > > > which seems like that would take up an awful lot of space. What > > size > > > > > > > > is most batteries that are used? I was thinking just a regular > > car > > > > > > > > battery, but 2 seems to big. > > > > > > > > > On Apr 26, 12:00 am, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > *Occasionally* the Victors and Vantecs come up for sale on > > Ebay. That's > > > > > > > > > where I got mine. I have an active search on Ebay that > > notifies me when > > > > > > > > > they come up for sale: "Vantec RDFR*" and "Victor 88*". > > Those are the > > > > > > > > > search terms I use. I got two Victor 883s for about $150 > > shipped and my > > > > > > > > > Vantec RDFR38D was also right around $100. But like I said, > > they don't come > > > > > > > > > up often on Ebay. When they do, I buy them. I'm using (and > > a lot of other > > > > > > > > > guys) the Unite geared motors like these: > >http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106118orthese:http://tncscoote.... > > Both are great motors. I > > > > > > > > > have two sets of the first type and a set of the second type. > > Both types > > > > > > > > > work great. You have to keep in mind that an ISU-152 (also > > called a > > > > > > > > > JSU-152) is a large vehicle in 1/6th scale. It's larger than > > my 1/6th scale > > > > > > > > > Sturmtiger. > > > > > > > > > > Derek > > > > > > > > > T065 > > > > > > > > > SV016 > > > > > > > > > KV-2 in progress > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, Apr 25, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Weston < > > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > True, I put all the prices into an excel spreadsheet and it > > comes out > > > > > > > > > > to about $750. I still wound need the paintball marker, all > > the > > > > > > > > > > building materials, the treads and such. I was just looking > > there for > > > > > > > > > > now, and then gonna look elsewhere to see if I could get > > the same > > > > > > > > > > stuff or equivalent for less than what they want. I don't > > really know > > > > > > > > > > much about this stuff, so that is why I'm asking for help. > > > > > > > > > > > On Apr 25, 8:07 pm, Mike Måne <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Those parts seem awefully expencive! You might be able to > > improvise > > > > > > > > > > > for some of them. Try exploring these sites: > > > > > > > > > > > > All Electronics:http://allelectronics.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > Surplus Centre:https://www.surpluscenter.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > -Mike M. > > > > > > > > > > > > On 25/04/2010, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > I might switch to the ISU-122s variant, it has a ball > > shaped manlet > > > > > > > > > > > > and a double-baffle muzzle brake, If I decide to make > > the turret have > > > > > > > > > > > > that 11 degrees of turret transverse. The ISU-122 is > > also called > > > > > > > > > > > > JSU-122, so I don't know what to look for now, but > > wikipedia calls it > > > > > > > > > > > > the ISU-122, so I'm gonna stick with that. > > > > > > > > > > > > > I might buy a 1/32 model, and then also use it to lay > > out a paint > > > > > > > > > > > > scheme before I even start. I would get a scale drawing > > at > > > > > > > > > > > > AVFNews.org, but you have to buy 5 at $2 each, and I > > only need 1. They > > > > > > > > > > > > don't have a 1:32 of the ISU-122/JSU-122 , but they > > have a 1:48. > > > > > > > > > > > > > I still need to decide if I want turret transverse, so > > depending on > > > > > > > > > > > > how complicated that is determines if I make the S > > variant or not. I > > > > > > > > > > > > also have to figure out a paintball gun to use, and how > > to fire it. I > > > > > > > > > > > > would prefer the .68 caliber since I can find that a > > lot around where > > > > > > > > > > > > I live for cheap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > The following list of parts is what I am currently > > looking at right > > > > > > > > > > > > now. I just have to see if it will all fit inside it > > once i find some > > > > > > > > > > > > specifications. > > > > > > > > > > > > > Control System > > ... > > read more » -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
