Cirdna,

It sounds like your a little light on basic R/C (radio control)
theory.  I'd suggest a little research on the fundamentals.  Google
"Radio Control basics" and do some reading.  Most sites are aircraft
specific but at this level the concepts are the same across all model
types.

http://www.masportaviator.com/pdfs/ftgu_2.pdf
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/rcspeedcontroller.html
http://home.flash.net/~dynamic3/sig/title.htm (I remember reading this
one when I was a kid)
http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/radio-control-gear.html

After you've got the concept of Tx, Rx, servos, and ESC's down (and
how their connected together).  Things will start to fall into place.

Steve Tyng




On Apr 24, 9:23 pm, cirdna <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ok i understand to a degree but yet i dont understand what you hook
> that up to other than a motor. and if i wanted to run a turret and the
> motors and a servo to pull the paintball gun trigger what would i have
> to do to run that. and if a motor controller is rated at a specific
> continuous  current am i able to have a different current rated motor
> (say the motor is 27.5a and the controller is 30a continuous). this is
> where i have the most questions can you just show me all the
> electrical systems whithin your tank and or the electrical schematic.
> or like a basic idea like "you connect this to this and this to
> this."
>
>  Can i just make my own gear reduction? or do i have to buy the motor
> gear reductor (is it cheaper)? and what is the best motor for a 186lb
> tank with weight dispersion between 6 contact wheels (in your opinion
> anyways). and what are full skid turns?
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_batch=recent_uploads
>
> Well i want it to be able to withstand a person trying to break it.
> its not modeled but is to look similar to the m1a1 but nothing to
> similar (like an m3a3 and an m1a1).
> 38"-15"-7.5" basically
> high density plywood 5/8"

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