Thanks for the ideas, everyone. Just a couple more points:
The Thing-O-Matic is trying to move away from being a one-off device by adding features that allow repeatative part generation. From what I've read, though, the implementation doesn't allow for truly unattended production yet. If I start casting, I doubt I'll use the fast setting plastic that Frank mentions. I don't have faith in my ablility to get the casts done that quick ! If it takes me longer to get my track set, that's ok. I believe we've had this discussion before and the consenus was that the low end Smooth-On products (320 and 325 series) were fine for tracks. Do I remember correctly ? I know that molds have a finite lifetime. Typically how many castings can I expect to get from a silicone mold ? I'm leaning toward molding and casting myself, but I like Franks offer of "prototype parts for molds". At least I wouldn't need to make my own molds and I could still play with a Thing-O-Matic. - Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: [email protected] To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 11:00:44 AM Subject: Re: [TANKS] track talk Ive worked with the 3d printers in the past. and the "cornstarch" powder machines product a part that is very delicate. you can strengthen them by soaking in hot beeswax or by wicking CYA glue (superglue)through it and letting it cure. when using these as masters dont forget to take draft and shink into account. Jason ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Lum" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 9:18:19 AM Subject: Re: [TANKS] track talk We have a "printer" at my school and would not mind printing some parts for people just to learn how it works. I'll get in touch with the tech guys and see what I need to do it. I did ask about cost and they said something crazy like $5 per cubic centimeter! Tom On Nov 02, 2011, at 09:25 AM, Frank Pittelli <[email protected]> wrote: Here are the disadvantages of 3D printing compared to molding parts: 1) ABS plastic is not as durable as the polyurethane we use when molding parts. 2) When molding, there's a 5 minute cycle time for a batch of parts (we do 8 parts per batch), each "part" will probably take at least 15 minutes on a 3d printer. 3) The plastic used by the printer is more expensive per pound than that used for molding. 4) If necessary, you can easily add a strip of fiberglass to molded parts to increase strength. That is not possible with printing. Basically, when it comes to mass-producing parts, molding is the cheapest, fastest and most flexible approach. As Joe said, the real winning combination is to use a 3D printer to make the master part, then make molds from them. We've done that for a couple of parts (drive cog, experimental pumps) and it works great. If you do get a Thing-O-Matic, you should expect a never-ending stream of 3D requests from Maryland for master part production (in exchange for mold making if you want). Frank P. On 11/1/2011 10:36 PM, Doug Conn wrote: > The Thing-O-Matic uses ABS plastic and produce parts the > required size and thickness. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
