You could use the same suspension but have different drive sprockets,
idler, and road wheels by using 2060 attachment chain. This would
pretty much solve the "throwing a track" problem. You could also
design the track plates to have a more "authentic look" and you could
bundle the whole thing up as an "option" for an extra cost. Call it
the Combat Gaming Track Option, to go with the Paintball Combat Gun
Option.
 Actually, you could save yourself a ton of grief by simply making two
distinct tanks. One for modelers and one for gamers (I hate that
connotation, btw). Make your combat tank a little more spartan in add-
on (read breakable) details that modelers slavishly apply to their
creations. A paintball gun that has been dialed up to 240ft/sec or so,
makes short work of plastic headlamps, open hatches, and at point
blank range, has been known to remove an RC antenna block mount quite
cleanly. Also give your customer<s> a stern lesson in Battery Care &
Maintenance.

 As Steve pointed out, we ask our toys to sometimes do the impossible.
I had 3/4" Grade 8 bolts as road wheel axles and I bent them. Not just
one but 4 out of 10. This was after bending 7/16, 1/2, 5/8 in the same
application. I broke the bottom of my hull by hitting a pointy rock
hidden in the grass, at full speed. 3/4", fiberglass reinforced,
marine grade mahogany plywood and it didn't survive. Full speed was
only 12kmph, pretty close to scale speed. Oh yeah, water-tight is a
good thing. You know your customers are going to abuse them, I mean
it's a tank. What fun is there in owning a tank if you cannot drive
it, run over things, and shoot stuff with it? I think, for me, hell
would be defined as having a 1/6th scale tank sitting on the shelf and
being too afraid to drive or battle it cuz it's too pretty.

Hey Steve, how many man-hours does it take to make a set of TTS
tracks? It took me a horribly long time, but I made lots of
mistakes. :-)

Just my 2 cents. :-)

Cheers,
Fred

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