There are three methods to set up a sabertooth.

The first is the method employed by professionals who compete in robotics
competitions regularly (such as myself). For this method to work correctly,
you will need a high pressure and volume environment. The ideal place for
this, of course, is at a robotics competition (i used this method at CRC
but i saw no reason it wouldn't work at FIRST). Failing that, put some
Black Sabbath or other heavy metal in the cd player and set the volume so
you need to yell to be heard. Make sure you only have 10 minutes to make
everything work, and some sever penalty if you arent done in the allotted
time. Have at least one, but preferably two people flank you. These extras
should contribute nothing tangible, but should look expectingly at you and
ask if its ready. Now grab the quick start page or whatever its called that
shows the different jumper positions and what each one does. Using a mix of
intuition, yelling at the driver and yelling at the mechanical team leader,
figure out what features people want and by extension what the dip switch
settings are. Wire it up per the instructions, set the dip switches and
power it up. On the field it will work perfectly and will never fail.
However, at least once in a test or practice round it will do something
quirky and unexpected that makes you forever mistrust it.

The second method is the one perfected by hobbiests. Grab the manual and
flip through it, using a mix of intuition and speed reading the subtitles
to try and figure out where the part that is most in line with what you
want is. Slap those switch settings in with no regard for what they mean
(copy straight from the manual) and throw away the manual forever. Hook
wires up in a consistent but arbitrary manner. This method wont work, but
it will result in erratic behaviour from the ESC and cause you to be
irrationally angry.

The best method is the third. Begin by reading the entire manual.  Dont
skip the parts that are boring or dont seem relevant to you; there are
important tips. Then re-read the parts that explain how to configure it for
the mode you want. Follow the manual and youll get it right the first time.
It will work solidly and dependably.

Some key points:

Do not hook the 5v output up to a 5v supply rail. Its an output, you do not
need to supply voltage to it. To the contrary in fact.

Do hook up both ground wires on the pwm cables to the ground port on the
Sabertooth. Otherwise it wont work and will do weird and erratic behaviour.

Do not connect the power wires backwards, nor the power supply wires to the
motor output ports.

There are a few features on the Sabertooth you dont necessarily get with a
mixer and talon, such as linear or exponential control response, behaviour
in the event of loss-of-signal, and regenerative braking.


On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 12:04 PM, TyngTech <[email protected]> wrote:

> http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RL-IMX1.html
>
> Only real difference with the IMX-1 is that you'll need two servo
> extension cables to attach to the Talons.
>
> ST
>
>
> On Monday, April 7, 2014 11:25:43 AM UTC-4, lotus7 wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the advice,
>>
>> Would you be able to tell me where I can buy that mixing board so  I can
>> read up on it? I will be able to make a decision then. Is setting up a
>> seperate mixing board with the Talon SD`s any more or less complicated than
>> setting up with the built in mixing on the Sabertooth?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 7, 2014 7:59:58 AM UTC-4, lotus7 wrote:
>>>
>>> If someone has the time,could they explain to a newbie like
>>> myself-mixing?
>>>
>>> I assumed that the right transmitter sticks up and down movement
>>> controlled the right side track motor and the left transmitter sticks up
>>> and down movement controlled the left track motor?
>>>
>>> What would be wrong about that?  Thanks in advance!
>>>
>>> nc
>>>
>>  --
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