Just got back from our project. Yes the the shingles interlock, so its
hard to slide the flashing up under. I used 1/16" cut off wheel in the
grinder, to cut the lines for the Soladeck. It came out pretty good,
but we had a bit of trouble with the interlock grove underneath causing
the flashing to ride up a little high.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 3/21/2013 4:42 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:
Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the roofing
material, never crossed my mind...
I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3 generation
carpenter before I became an electrician). What is the process for
removing a shingle? I'm guessing the shingles interlock where the overlap.
Jesse
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 21, 2013, at 3:37 PM, Jason Szumlanski <ja...@fafcosolar.com
<mailto:ja...@fafcosolar.com>> wrote:
Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+ years of roof
experience that's a craftsman with snips. It's easy to butcher it if
you let a junior guy do it.
*Jason Szumlanski*//
/Fafco Solar/
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters <r...@solarray.com
<mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:
How is this roof type for flashing? Do you just cut it with a
tin snips? My project only entails replacing an unflashed
conduit penetration with a Soladeck, so I'm hoping it won't be
too bad.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760 <tel:303%20505-8760>
On 3/21/2013 8:58 AM, Jason Szumlanski wrote:
We've used the standoff and boot method successfully. It
dictates where you put your rows to some extent, but it's not
too bad. There is definitely a hefty up-charge on this roof
type. It adds quite a bit of labor and material.
*Jason Szumlanski*//
/Fafco Solar
/
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 7:52 AM, Will White
<william.wh...@realgoods.com
<mailto:william.wh...@realgoods.com>> wrote:
We've done a couple of installs on metal shingle roofs and
we used the Unirac stand offs with the Oatey boots. We had
the standoffs and flashing installed by the roofer so it
wouldn't void the roof warranty. It cost about $1500 extra
but we thought it was worth if in case of a leak.
Thanks,
Will
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Will White
Regional Field Operations Manager - New England
Real Goods Solar
64 Main St.
Montpelier, VT 05602
Tel: (802) 223-7804 <tel:%28802%29%20223-7804>
Cell: (802) 234-3167 <tel:%28802%29%20234-3167>
www.realgoodssolar.com <http://www.realgoodssolar.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>] On
Behalf Of Jesse Dahl
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:33 PM
To: Wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Metal shingles
Hello,
I looked at a site today and the roofing was a brand of
metal shingle. This was just a quick drive by and check out
the site so I don't have access to the brand or method of
attachment.
It still got me thinking, what are people doing for
attachments to roofing like this? 6/12 pitch, and from the
photos the client sent me, the structure is 2"X6" truss
running N-S, with 1"x4" strapping every 4' running E-W along
with 5/8" OSB on top of the strapping. The trusses look to
be on 4' centers (just judging by the photo).
The only thing I can think of is EJOT type fasteners through
the shingle into the truss. The shingles would crush a
little bit, but the OSB would support it pretty well.
Otherwise removing the shingles where the feet would go and
then.....
As always thanks for all the help.
Jesse
Sent from my iPhone
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