On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 21:34:42 -0400, John Degnan wrote
> I don't get it, S scalers... y'all seem to change your mind more
> often than you do your clothes....
>
> About a year ago I brought up the possibility of having some Baldwin
> Centipedes done in S scale (brass) by Overland (because I wasn't as
> familiar with River Raisin then as I am now). All I got in reply
> was negative comments since it was to be brass... so negative in
> fact that I shelved the whole idea and never even finished the web
> page about it : http://www.trainweb.org/seaboard/CentipedeProject.htm
>
> Now, it seems that everyone is PRO brass in their replies to my
> comment about the poor (or should I say POORER THAN PLASTIC)
> operation characteristics of brass models.
>
> So... could everyone please make up MY mind for me? Am I to think
> that the S community DOES or DOES NOT like brass models?!? I'm SO
> confused... <G>
>
> John Degnan
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Ah John, this is just Murphy's Law #109. Just when you think you've got
most things figured out in model railroading, something else comes along to
really stir everything up. This rule has a corollary.."Just when you've
decided on the track plan of a lifetime, a different prototype catches your
fancy and that track plan no longer applies!"
As far as ready made brass goes, I have never in any scale seen an imported
brass locomotive that was 100% accurate. Custom made 100% accurate?
Perhaps.
Today's imports run well depending on who the manufacturer is. Samhongsa
was the leader in Korea until they were sued. Boo Rim, who RR use now has a
good reputation. I have found that Ajin is inconsistent and some need
tweaking. An annoyance that should not happen.
In the old days, any time TOBY of Japan made a loco, it may not have been
finely detailed but they all ran like fine Swiss watches. There is the
legendary CNR U-2-g class Northern that TOBY made in HO in 1972 with an open-
frame motor that is well-respected even today.
Still, I am fairly certain, Jim and Dan can refute this, that if one went
over any imported brass steamers with a fine tooth rivet counting comb, that
some detail would not be quite right for a particular number of the era that
is being modelled. I may be wrong though and if I am, I apologize with
regards to their fine efforts.
Brass is easy enough to work in if someone wants to take the time to learn
how to work in it. But, it does take much more time than say a resin or
cast metal kit. Are the results in resin or cast metal as good? Once the
paint is on, I would say yes. I have always said, if you have an advanced
level model with a poor paint job versus an entry level model with a good to
fine paint job, the entry level model will outshine the advanced level model.
The only thing that I would like to comment on about any loco kit that is
made is to make the details as 'modeller applied' as possible. Removing
domes and sandboxes is no fun, but being able to put them where you want
from the start is much more easier. Also, not all locos ended their lives
with the same amount of boiler bands and lagging clamps. Different hardware
was placed in different places even within the same subclasses as things
improved.
cheers,
Andy Malette
www.mlwservices.ca
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