Perhaps it is my O scale background, but I routinely tap all kingpin mounts and
use a proper
machine screw. That way I can also be reasonably assured that it is plumb. I
may be only
a jackleg machinist, but I resist "self-tapping" screws as shoddy work.
Jace Kahn
General Manager
Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co.
> > Good story! I will let you know if I find the proper form of exorcism...
> >
> > Re: your boxcar â" if you havenât done it already, check the truck
> > mounting
> > boss on the car bolster. Sometimes they crack or swell from the pressure
> > of the screw self-threading and bind the trucks ability to pivot or rock.
> > I have yet to go so far as to remove those that offend, because I I can
> > usually file or slice them down to a non-interfering fit.
> >
> > Let me know if that helps,
> > Bill Winans
> > ------------------------------
> > Bill,
> >
> > I've got a Ball Line boxcar that derails at most switches. I've got 4 other
> > similar cars that don't. We've installed NSWL wheelsets, added weight,
> > removed part of the underframe, added different trucks, checked the gauge
> > 10
> > times. Still no fix. If you have any luck let us know.
> > Tony Koester once related on a similar problem that he put the problem
> > child
> > in a purple painted drum with a yellow stripe and beat on the drum to drive
> > the devils out. Said it seemed a perfectly normal response at the time.
> >
> > George Courtney
> >
> Gents, There have been some reports from others in HO that using a "3
> point" suspension helps immensely. One truck should be tightened to just
> swivel, and the other truck loosened enough to swivel and rock. Maybe even
> try reversing this system from one truck to the other. This supposedly
> eliminates the "shakes" often seen on some HO, might help derailment prone
> cars as well.
> Bud Rindfleisch
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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