>  I need to have a standard coupler.

Kadee #802 (or the rust-colored equivalent) is the most popular.  Kadee #5 (or 
the #3 factory-assembled version) is my personal favorite.  AM makes a decent 
cheap dummy plastic coupler good for unit trains.  Sergent couplers look great, 
but are missing some of the automatic centering and remote uncoupling features 
of the Kadee.  If all uncoupling is within 20" of your belly button, then that 
is not a big deal.  

> the S scale sergent project was canceled?

John Degnan is the best source for info unless you contact Sergent directly 
(which is not a bad idea).  Last I heard it was "on the list" without a 
specific date.  Similar to a lot of S projects out there.

> I need to find a reliable source of metal wheelsets. 

NWSL has lots of metal wheelsets which are non-magnetic.  That is an advantage 
if using under-the-track magnets to uncouple. Otherwise, American Models has 
some, S-HS might have some (not sure), and I will plead ignorance re: other 
sources of metal wheels.  DPH??

> 50 footers seem to be awfully under weight, <snip> just tell me how much 
> weight should be added.

My personal preference is about two-thirds of the NMRA RP weight spec:   

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-20_1.html    

What is best depends on your minimum radius curves, speed of train, length of 
train, steepness of grade, consistency of car weight, rollability of trucks, 
etc.  One size does not necessarily fit all.

> Locomotives headlights <snip> solve the problem of detachment. Ideas?
> Jeffrey Ngowe

I'd suggest attaching the LED directly to the headlight "hole" unless there is 
a separate transparent headlight lens of some sort (which you can make if 
desired).  The wires can be routed via a Miniatronics 2-pin connector which 
makes detaching the body shell from the power chassis a simple matter.

> P.S. If anybody cares for pictures, I can upload a few.

H-m-m-m-m....pictures of what?  Model of the month, perhaps?





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