> Kadee offers an S scale coupler but it appears that the HO #5 coupler is more
> popular on S scale equipment. Please explain.
> Matt Hogan
Hi Matt....
There are several reasons why some folks prefer the Kadee HO coupler. Here are
mine:
1. The KD#802 S coupler is too large for my transition-era cars -- especially
flat cars. It would probably look OK on larger more modern freight cars, but I
do not have any of those (yet). The smaller KD#5 HO coupler just looks better
to my eyes. Nope, I have not gone out and measured a real coupler. It is
judgemental visual thing with me.
2. The S coupler has a springing action which enables a herky-jerk motion at
the rear of the train. The shank of the coupler moves in/out of the draft gear
box and the last car or two (caboose, usually) jerk around too much. Not
prototypical (too me) in spite of the 'bobber' nickname. The HO coupler is
sprung only in the side-to-side direction and there is no herky-jerk motion at
all.
3. I try to have a scale three feet spacing between cars. The S coupler gives
too much space. The HO coupler is just right. Placing an S-couplerized train
adjacent to an HO-couplerized train shows off the difference quite clearly.
Too wide spacing looks toy-like in my opinion. Modern cars with extended draft
gear boxes would not have this problem -- sort of. But I am not a 'modernista'
(yet).
4. With some smaller brass import locos (Shays, Heisler, etc.), the wide
variety of shank lengths, knuckle heights, mounting styles, etc. which are
readily available in HO permit a very easy installation. With the S coupler,
there is only one choice. For instance, fitting an S coupler to a PBL Shay
ruins the pilot appearance. Just not willing to go down that path.
5. Being an old tymer, I grew up with the KD HO coupler and love them. They
work and work well when properly installed and lubricated. As you know, gray
hairs are fixed in their habits and it makes no sense (to me) to change
everything around just because the On3 coupler now has 'S' on the envelope.
6. With the unmodified shorter glad hand of the HO coupler, the air hose
simulation is more realistic than with the S coupler. Real air hoses do not
drag along close to the tops of the rails. Real air hoses attach to each other
at a point about halfway between the rail head and the coupler itself. I use
stronger-than-normal magnets for uncoupling and non-magnetic wheels on
everything. Works fine. Looks a heckuva lot better.
7. Kadee HO couplers are a lot cheaper when purchased in bulk at discount
online retailers.
Enough for now?
Cheers...Ed Loizeaux
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