Hi Dave, I actually got into Sn22.67/Sn9mm after seeing On18/On9mm equipment on a mine railroad forum I belong to, and observing how `O' scale figures actually appeared to be too large for the On18 equipment.
Specifically, someone was showing off a Unit Models critter, which looks a lot like a 2 foot gauge critter I'd seen. I noticed how the knee of the `O' scale operator was level with the control panel and, since the seat was supported by a single post, I could easily adapt this model for `S' scale by shortening the post. What's great about Sn9mm is that it's going to allow me to construct an extensive layout within the limited space I have at home while remaining compatible with my other `S' scale equipment, so I can integrate it with the other equipment when I get a house with a basement. Furthermore, On9mm (aka. Sn9mm) has a much larger selection of the small industrial critters I prefer over the Maine steam. However, if there was a model of the SR&RL Ford "Goose" available, that could be re-gauged to 9mm, I would be interested in that. Based on what the English guys on the On9mm forum told me (On9mm's seems most popular "Over There"), battery powered small scale locomotives are also popular on small docks and fishing wharfs since they can be charged using a forklift charger, a detail I'll be sure to include. I'm looking to, eventually, build a compressed air locomotive for my Sn3 mining operation, a model of D'Anconia Resources Whitehorse Lead/Zinc Mine, but I'm a long ways from starting that project as I have plenty of other projects to finish first. These projects include getting Wiseman Model Works (static) Sn3 mine cars to work with the current mine locomotive, a Plymouth DDT (formerly an HO Model Power model). I mostly want to pick up the Kato track so that I can quickly put something down on the kitchen table, run for a little while, and then pack it away in a small box. I was just trying to figure out if I could also use this on my modular layout, which will be set up once I get a basement and which gets set up at train shows, but currently spends most of it's time vertically stored in a large closet. I'll be sure to keep you and everyone else appraised on my progressÂ… --- In [email protected], "David Heine" <davesn3@...> wrote: > > Jeff, > > Yes, HOn3 is greater than 2' in S and could technically be called Sn26, > while N would be Sn22. Some years ago, there was a discussion on the Sn2 > list about what gauge to adopt, with HOn3 gauge being the winner. Remember > most of these people, including myself, were modeling equipment of the Maine > 2' railroads. It was decided, that since there were so few of us, creating > a "true" gauge wasn't worth the trouble for 1/32". The HOn3 wheel and > flange standards fit better with S scale. Among other things, the HOn3 > wheels scale out better to wheels of the Maine 2' equipment rather than N > scale wheels which would be too small, plus some of the N scale wheels have > pizza cutter flanges. Another weird factor is that most modeling of Maine > 2' railroads is done in HOn30, which again is N gauge, rather than the > correct HOn2, even though HOn2 standards exist. > > The earliest Sn2 modelers generally bashed HOn3 locomotives for motive > power, including HOn3 brass or MDC HOn3 kits. When Train & Trooper imported > the brass Forneys (2-4-4T's and 0-4-4T's), railbus and parlor car in Sn2, > they were all made to the HOn3 wheel/track standards. So, unless one wants > to strike out on their own for 1/32" error in track gauge, using the HOn3 > track gauge is the way to go. > > Modeling a tram type operation is another story. With the small equipment > and wheel size, starting with N gauge equipment could be a better option and > some people have adopted this, just as you did and I did for a tramway. > > I called my N gauge track Sn20, after I heard some others call it that. I > did call it Sn22 at first, since that is more correct, but since we call > Sn26, Sn2, I figured Sn20 sounded better and there is four scale inches > between the two. After all, except for Proto:48, O scale should really be > Ow5, but you never hear that except in jest. > > I didn't remember what you were using the battery powered loco for. Usually > battery or compressed air locos are used in places where there is a problem > with combustion engines, like a mine. It's your railroad and you can do > what you want. I have to admit it is an interesting "critter" and thank you > for bringing it to my attention. > > Tie spacing can vary with the railroad and spacing is usually closer on > turnouts and crossings versus plain track. Jim King made some S tie spacing > jigs at one time and they were available with both 19" and 22" tie spacing > for mainline and branch line use. There is an article in the Nov/Dec 1989 > NG&SL Gazette on "Narrow Gauge Rails & Ties". It includes a compilation of > tie sizes and spacing as measured on the remains of several 3' gauge > railroads. Spacing varied from 18"-34", with (my observation) that 20"-24" > seemed to be the average. I checked some samples of flextrack I have, and > the S standard was 19" and the Sn3 was 22". You may want to spread you tie > spacing on the narrow gauge depending on your jig. > > Tie width may cause a problem with your tie jig. Narrow gauge ties are > usually smaller in cross section and shorter than standard gauge ties, with > both 5" X 7" and 6" X 8" being typical for 3' gauge railroads. The lengths > varied, but 6' or 6'-6" seemed to be the most common. The typical tie for > the Maine 2' gauge was 5" X 5" X 5'. Some of us have some ties that Mt. > Albert custom cut for Sn2 to 5" X 5" X 5'-2". Because the track gauge is > wide, the slight extra width was thought to improve the appearance. I use > 7" X 9" ties on my standard gauge track. Multi-gauge track uses the tie > standard for the widest gauge. > > I cut my switch ties to length ahead of time with a chopper, but use precuts > for regular ties. I have them sorted in three compartmented trays with > hinged lids, one each for S, Sn3 and Sn2 ties of the various lengths. I > happen to stain my ties before I lay them, but that is a matter of personal > preference. > > If your "Sn2" track is buried in the street so you can't see the ties, then > using the N scale track doesn't really matter, but I would probably use > flextrack so there are less rail joints. > > I find that since I'm hand laying the turnouts, crossings, and all special > track, laying the plain track is quite relaxing. But that's me. I don't > have (and don't plan on having) more than two gauges on any one track on my > layout, but I did build a five rail test track for S, Sn3, Sn2(HOn3) and > Sn20(N/HOn30). > > Dave Heine > Easton, PA > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of > danconialead > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 10:27 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: FRA standards re: bridge width > > Hi Dave, > > I'm already planning to hand lay all my proposed Dual and Triple Gauge > track, as well as my `S' and `Sn3' sections, so was looking to save myself > some effort by using cliptrack on the Sn9mm sections. > > Out of curiosity, since 9mm is 22.67 `S' scale inches, why do you call it > Sn20? > > Furthermore, I believe that I calculated HOn3 track to be something like > 26.5 `S' scale inches. > > This puts HOn3 two and a half `S' inches out of true Sn2 and 9mm track only > 1.33 inches off true Sn2, though on the other side of the equation. > > ALSO, while I discovered this engine and these Sn9mm trains on a mine forum, > I do not intend to use the Sn9mm equipment in my mine, since it would be > strange to have both 24' gauge and 36' gauge operating in the same mine, and > I already have Sn3 mine equipment nearing completion (I just need to paint > it). > > Instead, I plan to use the 9mm equipment to haul bins of sea food from a > wharf, through the streets of a small town, to where it merges with my Dual > Gauge, and then on to a cannery. They could also haul ice and other > supplies back to departing ships. > > In regards to the bridge, I'd have the 9mm running down a street, but divert > off the side of the street to cross a stream or small river on its own > bridge, before merging back into the center of the road. > > I've found it easier to cut my own ties on a chopper, since I can adjust > them better for switches, and then stain them once they're in place. > > I have a tie spacing gauge, for Standard Gauge, that a friend of mine made, > and I was just going to use this for the Sn36 and Sn9mm as well. Tie > spacing is the same on 3 and 2 foot gauge as it is on Standard Gauge, right? > > Jeff Allen. > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! 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