date:20120915

Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to 
choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little oomph to 
get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will not hurt the 
bike or hub.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

Mission Work shop makes a very nice if expensive rain jacket.  The regular is 
very light.  They make one ultra-light for extra dollars.  The jacket is made 
out of a water proof fabric that moves well with the body.  Three pockets in 
front, one well hidden pocket inback.  It has vent zips.  MUSAtoo.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-15 Thread Michael Hechmer

This is a tricky question; it's all temperature dependent.  If its 80+ I 
usually just ignore the rain.  Below that I have a light weight pearl izumi 
rain jacket, but it doesn't breath all that well.  If it's cool enough for 
arm warmers before it starts raining I really like an older Ibex shak 
jacket.  The wool breathes well and is pretty water resistant.  I think 
mine is lighter than the newer ones though.  Colder still and I switch to a 
Showers Pass, Elite 2.0.  But it definitely needs to be below 50 for that 
option.  If you read their fine print they say 65 and raining, and I 
suppose it would be OK at 60 or so, but I prefer the wool  However the 
Showers pass is nicely vented in the pits.  I find the Ibex  Showers pass 
together can take me down well below freezing.  I usually subtract 10 
degrees from the actual temperature when I'm dressing for rain.  One other 
good option is simply a double layer of wool shirts and a pair of tights.

The real challenge as the temperature drops turns out to be head and feet. 
 How to keep them warm without overheating?  Tricky.

Michael  

On Thursday, September 13, 2012 2:55:57 PM UTC-4, tragicallyaverage wrote:

 As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
 former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
 simply get soaked on my commutes. 
 I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season 
 approaches. Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?


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[RBW] The banana bag has been sold

2012-09-15 Thread PATRICK MOORE

Thanks for the interest.

-- 
Believe nothing until it has been officially denied.
   -- Claude Cockburn

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

Did the AHH change rear spacing? Mine is 135 mm, as we're all the original 
darker blue ones.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2012, at 5:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

 Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to 
 choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little oomph to 
 get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will not hurt 
 the bike or hub.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

I could be mixing it up with another Riv., but I believe my first batch Hilsen 
was 132.5.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-15 Thread Leslie

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 12:02:18 PM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:

 I could be mixing it up with another Riv., but I believe my first batch 
 Hilsen was 132.5.  



Original plan for the Rambouillet was to be a 130 rear, but then RBW went 
132.5 so that you could go either 130 or 135.  (I went 135 w/ XT hubs.)

The Hilsen is a bit stouter than the Ram, and I know it's more normal to 
think of it being 135; and yes, the site is saying 135;  but 132.5 makes 
sense for it, too;  it's not like being able to use a 130 on a AHH is bad.

Regardless, no worries, it's fine.  


Question:  what shifters are you using?  Both times, I bought boxed sets of 
Shimano 9-sp bar-end shifters, there's been a cable guide in the box.

 

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Re: [RBW] Rain Gear?

2012-09-15 Thread jimD

+1 on Shower's Pass.
Even then there's the problem of getting 'damp' from the inside out.
Splats are good too.
Fenders are must have.
My goal is to keep from getting soaked and/or cold.
I surrender when it comes to total 'dryness'.
-JimD

On Sep 15, 2012, at 3:11 AM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:

 I've been pleased with a Shower's Pass touring jacket and some rain pants. 
 You'll need a helmet cover and waterproof rain booties or splats for your 
 shoes if you want to keep them dry as well. Depends on the kind of ride 
 you're doing, as you can get soaked from sweat too.
 
 On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 1:55 PM, tragicallyaverage daban...@gmail.com wrote:
 As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
 former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
 simply get soaked on my commutes. 
 I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season approaches. 
 Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

My second batch one was made at Waterford and is 135. The literature 
advertising the bike when it was new in 2007 said it would be 135 on the AHH, 
but that Rivendell also thought 132.5 could make a lot of sense.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2012, at 9:02 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

 I could be mixing it up with another Riv., but I believe my first batch 
 Hilsen was 132.5.  
 
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[RBW] FS: Rare Nitto rack, new

2012-09-15 Thread Bill

For Sale:

A Nitto RN201 saddlebag support rack.

Only available to Japanese domestic market.  I have never seen these 
anywhere besides Japan. 

Attaches to rear cantilever brakes and bridge boss for fender. 
This rack is essentially the saddlebag equivalent of the Nitto M12 or M13. 
Same finish (nickel plated) and construction quality, black  silver Nitto 
decal. 

This rack will work best with rear brakes that have a high profile/yoke 
(i.e. Tektro CR720, Paul Neo-Retro, Mafac, etc). 

Brand-new, never installed. 

Example of rack installed: 

http://i.imgur.com/dBtOs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/U5WMg.jpg

Pictures of actual rack (large):

http://i.imgur.com/3YLma.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Z8UYc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ktzcX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oZNjd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/toLGk.jpg

$110 shipped USPS Priority. 

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

For those of us who like to keep a poncho stuffed away, I think Vaude makes 
certainly the best buy in cycle-specific ponchos.  
The trick is finding and/or getting one over here.  I ordered a pair from 
Dresden.  

On Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:55:57 PM UTC-5, tragicallyaverage wrote:

 As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
 former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
 simply get soaked on my commutes. 
 I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season 
 approaches. Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?


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[RBW] Re: FS: 55cm Roadeo, F/F/HS

2012-09-15 Thread 3wheelin

if you can stretch the frame into a 59, consider it sold

On Sep 12, 7:03 am, sjauch sja...@gmail.com wrote:
 Still for sale, how about $1250 shipped?



 On Thursday, September 6, 2012 9:43:24 AM UTC-4, sjauch wrote:
  Hi,

  Selling my Roadeo which is about 2 years old. Some paint chips around the
  rear dropouts and a small chip in the top tube that's been touched up but
  still visible.

  I'd like to get $1350 shipped. This is for the Frameset, Cane Creek
  Classic 100 headset and if you need the 9cm stem  steerer shim.

  There are photos here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ironsightimages/sets/72157623465484739/

  If you have any questions or would like any more photos please let me know.

  Thanks.

  https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vOpKyf0EEQQ/UEiocx_y3VI/AY...

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[RBW] Re: Buzz Bomb Bicycles Eye Candy

2012-09-15 Thread 3wheelin

I've had the privilege of meeting with coot on many occasions here
in Reno. His expertise has helped me in some purchases I've made. His
collection is beautiful and his passion for bicycles is endless and
contagious.

On Sep 14, 5:41 am, Addison Wilhite addisonwilh...@gmail.com wrote:
 Got a chance to tour part of their collection of restored bicycles.  Pretty
 sweet stuff in the collection.  Some of the handlebars on those old 1930s
 and 40s bikes sure look nice.  Thought others would like to see the gallery
 of shots...

 http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/09/magical-mystery-tour-trip-th...

 Cheers,

 --
 Addisonhttp://reno-rambler.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cycles Swift Waxed Cotton Randonneur front bag

2012-09-15 Thread john

Actually, this is a Swift Industries bag, not a Cycles Swift bag, as a 
reader pointed out correctly. My mistake.

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 4:26:02 AM UTC-7, doc wrote:

 Grrr.  I've got the matching Short Stacks, but the piggy bank is empty.  
 Nice looking bag.

 On Friday, September 14, 2012 10:24:34 AM UTC-4, john wrote:

 Hi ya. I've got a new, never used Swift Cycles Rando bag for sale. 
 Gorgeous bag, great craftspersonship! I paid $250 for the bag plus shipping 
 costs. I'd be willing to sell and send for $225 just to get some cash flow 
 back in the coffers.



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Re: [RBW] Grant at College Park Bikes - DC metro area

2012-09-15 Thread islaysteve

Thanks for sharing Proteus as well as CPC.  When I first moved to this area 
30+ years ago I had an old Mercier with tubulars.  Proteus had affordable 
Clement tubulars and I would make the trip up there to buy them.  Steve

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 7:10:37 PM UTC-4, Marty wrote:

 There's an outside chance I'll be there, but if not, here's a preview - 
 and a bonus. There are* two* great shops in College Park, not far from 
 each other. College Park Cycles is maybe the biggest and best, but Proteus 
 Bicycles is worth a stop too. Larry Black is THE guy at CPC, would give 
 Sheldon a run for his money in the deep knowledge department, but you have 
 to literally nail him down to get a word in with him. Busy guy. - probably 
 has sold more lugged steel bikes, tandems, triples, quads and recumbents 
 than everyone else put together. I've sold him a number of bikes from my 
 own stable over the years, mostly old Paramounts. Always a fair deal. If 
 you need Honjos, he has 'em. Nitto? No problem. Tubus? You want black or 
 silver? That left side saddle support from an old Campy NR post? You want 
 NOS or used? Hmmm...maybe a never-built up  Trek 720 frameset? Don't bump 
 your head on it! You get the idea. 


 Anyway, here's a sneak-peek at what you'll see hanging in the rafters 
 there, and at Proteus if you get a chance to stop in. Like I said, both are 
 worth a visit:

  *http://tinyurl.com/98e96cv*
 *
 *
 Hope to see some of you there! Bring money...something hanging in there 
 has your name on it. 
 *
 *
 Marty


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[RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

I'm going to throw up another bag maker here - Brian Laplander
His Carsick panniers are as good as it gets.  
http://carsickdesigns.com/PRODUCTS/Pages/PANNIERS.html 

On Monday, September 10, 2012 12:06:32 PM UTC-5, Scot Brooks wrote:

 I got to interview Martina from Swift this weekend. They make super nice 
 bags for bicycles, and the waxed canvas option is excellent and quite 
 Riv-ish. Check it out if you like. 
 http://cyclingillustrated.com/local-maker-interview-vol-1-swift-industries-by-scot-hinckley/

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[RBW] Re: Pedals

Altrec is a good outfit - I've probably bought 3 pairs of shoes from them, 
Merrell sandals and Keen water boots.  
Feet are very specific animals, though.  I have ice-skates with high 
arches, and Merrell Kahunas are the best thing I've ever done for them. 
 Been through 4 pair and recently hunted down a closeout pair in the UK, 
since you can't find them here any more.  The specific design is as light 
as any shoe.  Unfortunately, the closest design they sell here now are the 
heavy leather things.  

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 10:38:15 PM UTC-5, Mike On A Bike wrote:

 FWIW, while on the subject of shoes  pedals, I just got a pair of 
 vivobarefoot Breatho Trail shoes this week and they are by far the 
 most comfortable shoe I've ever had, and they are awesome in terms of 
 ride performance and comfort. They are sort of like Vibram Fivefingers 
 but thicker and don't look weird as hell, and though I notice the 
 pedal under my foot more than with normal shoes, it's not at all 
 uncomfortable and maybe even ups the Zen-y connectedness to the bike a 
 bit. The lugged tread grips my Gripkings extremely well, and I feel 
 just about locked in with them. 

 Also, they are SUPER light, and they really do breathe quite well as I 
 could feel the breeze flowing through shoe when I focused on it. In 
 short, these shoes work really great as far as grip, being light and 
 nimble, not ugly, and of course you've got the whole primal blueprint 
 barefoot walking to get your feet JAKKED thing going on too. I'm very 
 picky when it comes to gear and I'd give these a 9/10 for sure. One 
 thing to be aware of: they run a solid size small, as I am a 46 and 
 ordered a 47 and it is just right. 

 The people at Altrec are good humans and have an REI-like return 
 policy, for the link: http://tinyurl.com/8jjb7ur. + You can get a 15% 
 off coupon by creating an account and writing a review for anything. 

 On Sep 12, 1:37 pm, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  Grip Tape. $5 at the skate shop will put gription on every pedal you 
 own. 
  They have enough stickability to ride fixed offroad with no other 
  retention. 
  
  Skateboard pedal 
  decks:
 http://problemsolversbike.com/blog/comments/how_to_make_skateboard_pe... 
  It makes MKS GR-9s rideable in the 
  rain.
 http://www.biketinker.com/2011/projects/griptape-on-platform-pedals/ 
  Wooden inserts for quill pedals was pretty lame: 
   http://www.biketinker.com/2011/projects/quill-pedal-skateboard-inserts/ 
  
  I do like the idea of rubber blocks with half-clips... 
  
  I'm a crank about this like I was about Bobike front-loading kid 
 seats... 
  Philipwww.biketinker.com 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 7:03:44 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: 
  
   Those pedals are the same as or very similar to the stock pedals on my 
   friend's lately purchased Novara Fusion and I have to say that, at 
 least 
   with boat-type slip ons, those on the Novara, at least, don't grip 
 very 
   well. 
  
   What I'd like to see is rubber block pedals with a half clip, but I 
   suppose that wish is doomed to disappointment. 
  
   On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 7:48 AM, Matt Beebe 
   matthi...@gmail.comjavascript: 

wrote: 
  
   I grew up using beartraps and BMX pedals with pins, but lately am 
 more 
   and more inclined to use less aggressively grippy flat pedals such as 
   rubber blocks or comfort pedals like these
 http://winor-xlc.elfriede.eikona-server.de/bild.php?src=portal/artike..., 

   since my shoes last longer that way.In my experience, you get 
 used to 
   the amount of grip you have and won't have any problems keeping your 
 feet 
   on the pedals once accustomed. 
  
   Matt 
  
   On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:31:46 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote: 
  
   I think the Grip Kings are the ugliest pieces of kit that RBW sells. 
   Clunky and strangely-shaped. And they don't even come standard with 
 the 
   requisite set screws, which are needed to hold your shoes in place. 
  
   On the other hand, the VP Gripsters are fantastic. Thin, light, 
   pre-installed (with threadlocker!) set screws, I'm really liking 
 them on 
   the fixed-gear QuickBeam. 
  
   - Andrew, Berkeley 
  
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   -- 
   Believe nothing until it has been officially denied. 
  -- Claude Cockburn 
  
   - 
   Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
   For professional

[RBW] Sackville Grid Gray Otters Wax result

When I asked Spenser about weatherproofing Sackville Grid Gray fabric with
Otter Wax, he asked the Scot fabric makers, and here was their reply:

With regards restoring or refreshing traditional proofed canvas I am not
sure there is a lot you can do. Our recommendations for cleaning are very
simple as using any type of chemicals could effect the proofing. We
recommend “removing any loose dirt and clean with water only using a soft
brush and let dry naturally”. I feel using the Otterwax product may help
the waterproofing properties of the product but I do not think it would
help with the aesthetics of the fabric. However in this case I would love
to be proved wrong and suggest you give the Otterwax a trial.

So I tried it on the bottom of the large bag and liked the result, and
finished out both bags.

The grid gray bags came out beautiful, waterproof and stiffer. As
expected, it left a sheen on the fabric.
The key is to not apply too much wax - the grid tries to grab it - use a
blow drier, and rub it in well with your fingers, per the instructions.
My photos show the bags propped up to cure for 24 hours.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-buQmY-h_nT4/UFSLv_rRrJI/AO8/aZUCABpCUzE/s1600/aP9150003.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j910ad2GzDE/UFSLv7ao7NI/AO4/mv-JDrYzpNE/s1600/aP9150004.jpg

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Lugged stem, Paul Racer brakes, Tents, Campy Ti seatpost,650b tires

2012-09-15 Thread Bicyclebill

Hobie,
I'll take the Ti post if still available.  Please contact me offline.
Thanks,
Bill
On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 10:35:13 AM UTC-4, hobie wrote:

 I have the following parts for sale. All prices include shipping. US only. 
 Thanks for looking.
  
 1- Nitto lugged quill stem 11cm. Excellent condition. $150.00
 1- Campagnolo Record Titanium seatpost 27.2  $200.00  Together w. the 
 Nitto lugged stem they make a nice match. The lustre is similar,the Nitto 
 being alittle cooler in color.
 1-Pair of Paul Racer brakes anodized silver centerpull,reach is 57-67mm. 
 Just replaced the Koolstop pads. $150.00
 1- Pair of Grand Bois Ourson 650bx35mm tires folding bead. Road for around 
 5 miles. $60.00
 1-Pair of Schwalbe 650bx38 tires, 1-pair of Fatty Rumkins 650bx41. Both 
 have about 50-60% life left. Both pairs $50.00 shipped
 1-Phil Wood Bottom Bracket 111mm JIS, alittle rough but still very usable. 
 $55.00
 4- Carradice leather straps white never used. 7-1/2 long. $22.00
 1- Eureka Backcountry 1 person tent, never used. New no box. $115.00
 1- Eureka Skylight 2- person tent, used a few times. $95.00
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-15 Thread Michael Richters

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
 Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to 
 choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little oomph to 
 get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will not hurt 
 the bike or hub.

In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to
bare metal.  And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen
(http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says:

Rear dropout spacing: 135mm.

At least for my frame, this is not accurate.  It takes far more than
a little oomph for me to get both ends of the hub into the dropouts.
 I'm pretty sure that if I do it ten times, I will damage the bike (I
don't mean the dropouts; I expect it to fall and get a scratch or dent
someplace else) and/or injure myself at least once.  I'd rather not
grease the dropouts, but I may not have any choice.  Perhaps I should
get a file and remove some of the metal from the dropouts?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Clicking Question

2012-09-15 Thread Robert Barr

Zack,

I chased a bottom bracket click for months on my MB3 commuter. I took it to
the LBS and they pulled the bottom bracket, pronounced the bearings good,
snugged it up, and I went off without a click. Three weeks later my click
was back. I went back to the shop and we repeated the process. The shop
owner is first rate and checked everything. For a second time he pulled the
cable routing bracket on the bottom of the shell to make sure there was no
interference with the set screw, checked the bearings, and reassembled. No
clicking for about two weeks, then back it came, most pronounced when I was
climbing. During this long process I was occasionally pulling my crank and
playing with chain ring size and chain line - not actually doing anything
to the BB, other than maybe torquing it a bit as I tightened the crank
bolt. I went back to the LBS. The owner repeated our now normal process -
but asked that I not do anything  with the cranks for a bit. To shorten the
story - as long as I didn't take off or tighten the crank the clicking
stayed away. Our final thoughts are that when I would take off the crank
and put it back on I would very slightly loosen the BB (or BBBA) and it
would loosen with use. The initial loosening of the BB was subtle with no
observable change, but when the clicking started the BB would be loose
enough to ever so slightly tighten. It was the curious case of the
clicking BB, and I am glad it is solved.

Good luck, Bob

On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:09 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's hard to imagine what you could do to contaminate a sealed BB.  It's
 easier to imagine being the outlier on the tail end of the quality
 distribution curve.  The good thing about higher end, eg White or Phil
 Wood,  they would make good on these.

 Michael


 On Friday, September 14, 2012 5:49:55 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

 Ok this is plain weird.

 My wife came home and said something is wrong with my bike

 I just checked and the exact same thing is happening on her betty as on
 my sam.

 So the constant here is me, as I took both cranks off our bikes to swap
 chain rings.  I put the cranks back on and greased the bolt before putting
 back on.  I tightened both snug with some force but didn't go crazy
 tightening up.  They are both tange bottom brackets with sugino XD2 cranks.


 I have to imagine I have done something to cause this, but have no idea
 what.

 further ideas?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Lugged stem, Paul Racer brakes, Tents, Campy Ti seatpost,650b tires

2012-09-15 Thread Bicyclebill

Hobie,
Tried to post this a few minutes ago but it doesn't seem to have gone 
through.  I'll take the Ti seatpost.  Please reply offline,
Thanks,
Bill
On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 10:35:13 AM UTC-4, hobie wrote:

 I have the following parts for sale. All prices include shipping. US only. 
 Thanks for looking.
  
 1- Nitto lugged quill stem 11cm. Excellent condition. $150.00
 1- Campagnolo Record Titanium seatpost 27.2  $200.00  Together w. the 
 Nitto lugged stem they make a nice match. The lustre is similar,the Nitto 
 being alittle cooler in color.
 1-Pair of Paul Racer brakes anodized silver centerpull,reach is 57-67mm. 
 Just replaced the Koolstop pads. $150.00
 1- Pair of Grand Bois Ourson 650bx35mm tires folding bead. Road for around 
 5 miles. $60.00
 1-Pair of Schwalbe 650bx38 tires, 1-pair of Fatty Rumkins 650bx41. Both 
 have about 50-60% life left. Both pairs $50.00 shipped
 1-Phil Wood Bottom Bracket 111mm JIS, alittle rough but still very usable. 
 $55.00
 4- Carradice leather straps white never used. 7-1/2 long. $22.00
 1- Eureka Backcountry 1 person tent, never used. New no box. $115.00
 1- Eureka Skylight 2- person tent, used a few times. $95.00
  


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[RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Clicking Question

2012-09-15 Thread Bill

check your pedals. 

On Friday, September 14, 2012 5:09:19 PM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 It's hard to imagine what you could do to contaminate a sealed BB.  It's 
 easier to imagine being the outlier on the tail end of the quality 
 distribution curve.  The good thing about higher end, eg White or Phil 
 Wood,  they would make good on these.

 Michael

 On Friday, September 14, 2012 5:49:55 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

 Ok this is plain weird.

 My wife came home and said something is wrong with my bike

 I just checked and the exact same thing is happening on her betty as on 
 my sam.

 So the constant here is me, as I took both cranks off our bikes to swap 
 chain rings.  I put the cranks back on and greased the bolt before putting 
 back on.  I tightened both snug with some force but didn't go crazy 
 tightening up.  They are both tange bottom brackets with sugino XD2 cranks. 
  

 I have to imagine I have done something to cause this, but have no idea 
 what.  

 further ideas?



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[RBW] Re: Sackville Grid Gray question

Otter wax worked great.  
The grid gray bags came out beautiful, waterproof and stiffer.  As 
expected, it left a sheen on the fabric.  
The key is to not apply too much wax - the grid tries to grab it - use a 
blow drier, and rub it in well with your fingers, per the instructions.  
My photos show the bags propped up to cure for 24 hours.  

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-buQmY-h_nT4/UFSLv_rRrJI/AO8/aZUCABpCUzE/s1600/aP9150003.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j910ad2GzDE/UFSLv7ao7NI/AO4/mv-JDrYzpNE/s1600/aP9150004.jpg

Thanks again to Spenser for his effort !!

  




On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:43:03 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 is it OK to use a canvas wax like an Otter's wax bar on the Sackville Grid 
 gray.  
 I was hoping to stiffen the fabric a bit and, of course, weatherproof it.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-15 Thread Peter Morgano

Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and
realign dropouts. Cost me 40 bucks in nyc which is top of the market.
On Sep 15, 2012 12:28 PM, Michael Richters michael.richt...@gmail.com
wrote:

 On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
  Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners
 to choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little
 oomph to get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will
 not hurt the bike or hub.

 In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to
 bare metal.  And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen
 (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says:

 Rear dropout spacing: 135mm.

 At least for my frame, this is not accurate.  It takes far more than
 a little oomph for me to get both ends of the hub into the dropouts.
  I'm pretty sure that if I do it ten times, I will damage the bike (I
 don't mean the dropouts; I expect it to fall and get a scratch or dent
 someplace else) and/or injure myself at least once.  I'd rather not
 grease the dropouts, but I may not have any choice.  Perhaps I should
 get a file and remove some of the metal from the dropouts?

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[RBW] FS: Levi's Gran Fondo Entry - 9/29/12

2012-09-15 Thread Cyclofiend Jim

Hey there - 

Since the tumble I took a couple weeks ago still has me off the bike, I've 
grudgingly accepted the fact that I won't do this ride this year (Ribs, 
healing, ultimately won't be a problem, but now it's uncomfy.). 

I have an entry for the 2012 Levi's Gran Fondo (the full Fondo 103 mile 
course) which I'd love to see someone use.  I'm not trying to make any 
money on this thing - just recover a bit of my cost (which was $145) for 
the entry.   I'm posting this more widely at the the entry price, but I'd 
like to offer it to any interested list member less the required transfer 
fee (i.e. $145 - 50 = 95).  

This ride sold out within the first few days and is one amazing loop 
through the coastal areas and hills around Santa Rosa. 

As they say,
The Gran route is a 103-mile  journey of grandeur through the towering and 
enchanted forests, bare ridgetops, and pucker-worthy descents. The route 
climbs out of the depths of the town of Cazadero into one of the most 
breathtakingly beautiful expanses of terrain with incredible skytop views 
of nearby mountains, ridges, valleys and, of course, the vast Pacific 
Ocean. After cresting King Ridge Road, Gran riders are in for whipping 
descents and the rolling profiles of the coastal roads until you make your 
way back towards Occidental via the infamous Coleman Valley Road. From 
there, it’s smooth sailing back into Santa Rosa.

More info here: http://www.levisgranfondo.com/course

The folks at the ride provide a pretty seamless way to transition the entry 
to you - however, you need to do it before 9/23 if you are interested.   
Basically, you pay $50 to them for the transfer, then input the info I give 
you, and everything gets swapped over to you. 

Info here: http://www.levisgranfondo.com/info/refunds

If you want to do this, email me directly at cyclofiend at gmail dot com.  
I'll need to get a paypal for the amount and then I'll send you the 
registration/transfer info.

Thanks and good riding!

- Jim

cyclofi...@gmail.com


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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

I would not file it. Maybe you should call Rivendell.

Is it possible that your frame was tweaked in transit somewhere? You should 
call them and not take my word on the following speculation which is that I'd 
be surprised if they let a frame get sold to a customer that is not 135 without 
telling the customer. Rivendell is consistently good about that kind of detail. 
It makes me wonder if something accidental happened somewhere with yours.

But still, if the frame's fully straight and aligned and rides well, 132.1 is a 
good dimension to have back there. To put in a 135 hub, you're only moving 
things 1.45 mm per side.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2012, at 7:09 AM, Michael Richters michael.richt...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
 Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to 
 choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little oomph 
 to get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will not 
 hurt the bike or hub.
 
 In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to
 bare metal.  And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen
 (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says:
 
Rear dropout spacing: 135mm.
 
 At least for my frame, this is not accurate.  It takes far more than
 a little oomph for me to get both ends of the hub into the dropouts.
 I'm pretty sure that if I do it ten times, I will damage the bike (I
 don't mean the dropouts; I expect it to fall and get a scratch or dent
 someplace else) and/or injure myself at least once.  I'd rather not
 grease the dropouts, but I may not have any choice.  Perhaps I should
 get a file and remove some of the metal from the dropouts?
 
 -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

Yes, that too. I had the rear of my QB (similar frame to AHH) respaced from 120 
to 135. So far, so good (knock on wood.)


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2012, at 9:37 AM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:

 Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and 
 realign dropouts. Cost me 40 bucks in nyc which is top of the market.
 
 On Sep 15, 2012 12:28 PM, Michael Richters michael.richt...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
  Michael:  Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to 
  choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate.  It takes a little oomph 
  to get the 135 mounted for sure.  Nothing wrong with doing so.  Will not 
  hurt the bike or hub.
 
 In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to
 bare metal.  And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen
 (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says:
 
 Rear dropout spacing: 135mm.
 
 At least for my frame, this is not accurate.  It takes far more than
 a little oomph for me to get both ends of the hub into the dropouts.
  I'm pretty sure that if I do it ten times, I will damage the bike (I
 don't mean the dropouts; I expect it to fall and get a scratch or dent
 someplace else) and/or injure myself at least once.  I'd rather not
 grease the dropouts, but I may not have any choice.  Perhaps I should
 get a file and remove some of the metal from the dropouts?
 
 --
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[RBW] 62cm Rambouillet $1700 Seattle CL

2012-09-15 Thread rcnute

Not mine, nice deal!  http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3272943962.html

Ryan

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[RBW] Brooks Saddles on The Clymb

2012-09-15 Thread Philip Williamson

I appreciate pointers to good prices on good gear, even though I hardly ever 
buy stuff. 

Philip
Biketinker.com

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[RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Kelly

Ok so I've got SON28 on the Bombadil, AHH and my wifes  Atlantis.  I have a 
Shimano 3n80 on my Quickbeam.  I can notice a difference in drag between 
the SON28 and 3N80 though negligible.   I was looking around after 
purchasing a 68 cm RAM for a something but didn't want to shell out the big 
bucks for the SON28.  Thought about not even having a Dyno hub for it. 
 Then I ran across the SP Dynamo and it's big claims.  I ordered one for 
about 130 bucks.   I purchased a SD-8 non switchable.  There is rumors that 
this company makes the Supernova hub as well though I have no documentation 
or proof.. just spreading the rumor.  It also has the same connector as the 
Shimano. 

Well I built the wheel last night then today took the wheel off the AHH and 
 road the SP with light off then on and at speed.  Took it off and road the 
SON28.  The only difference I could discern was the SP didn't have the 
vibration the SON28 did / all of my SON28's have at particular speeds.. 
usually around 20ish mph and doesn't last long.  I was unable to determine 
by ride if it has any more or less drag than the SON28 it felt the same.   
It's also smaller and lighter than the SON28 but I couldn't tell that from 
riding either.  Overall my first impressions are that this is a viable 
alternative to the SON at 1/2 the price.   Guess time will tell how it's 
longevity is.  

Here are some photos... not good ones but photos anyway.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157631542052892/

Kelly



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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-15 Thread Leslie

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:09:21 AM UTC-4, Michael Richters wrote:

 In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to 
 bare metal.  And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen 
 (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says: 

 Rear dropout spacing: 135mm. 

 At least for my frame, this is not accurate.  It takes far more than 
 a little oomph for me to get both ends of the hub into the dropouts. 
  I'm pretty sure that if I do it ten times, I will damage the bike (I 
 don't mean the dropouts; I expect it to fall and get a scratch or dent 
 someplace else) and/or injure myself at least once.  I'd rather not 
 grease the dropouts, but I may not have any choice.  Perhaps I should 
 get a file and remove some of the metal from the dropouts? 



Don't file.Bending it out by less than 3mm (about 1.5mm per side) is 
not a problem;  removing metal is.   

Look at how the rear triangle is made:  a pair of chainstay tubes from the 
bottom bracket shell coming back, a pair of seatstay tubes coming from the 
top of the seattube down; each side meeting on a dropout.   When W'ford 
built these, there's a jig that holds the tubing as the brazing is done;  
yours just has a little snap that, out of the jig, it's a hair tighter.   
It's not a problem.You won't damage the frame putting a hub in there.   
Given the length of the stays, to move out by less than 2mm each side over 
that length, is not bending them much at all;  that's why it snaps back, 
you're not bending it enough to pass the elastic point of the metal.  

Please, call Rivendell if you want;  get it straight from G, it's okay.   




 

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[RBW] Re: Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread charlie

I wondered about this hubI have the switchable one purchased from Velo 
Orange and it works nice but want a hub for my daughter and thought of the 
unswitched version. My only concern.does it seal against moisture as 
well or is this just hype? I've had no problems with my current hub but 
store it inside and haven't ridden it in the rain more than a dozen times. 
The $130 price is better so...hmmm what to do.

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:04:30 AM UTC-7, Kelly wrote:

 Ok so I've got SON28 on the Bombadil, AHH and my wifes  Atlantis.  I have 
 a Shimano 3n80 on my Quickbeam.  I can notice a difference in drag between 
 the SON28 and 3N80 though negligible.   I was looking around after 
 purchasing a 68 cm RAM for a something but didn't want to shell out the big 
 bucks for the SON28.  Thought about not even having a Dyno hub for it. 
  Then I ran across the SP Dynamo and it's big claims.  I ordered one for 
 about 130 bucks.   I purchased a SD-8 non switchable.  There is rumors that 
 this company makes the Supernova hub as well though I have no documentation 
 or proof.. just spreading the rumor.  It also has the same connector as the 
 Shimano. 

 Well I built the wheel last night then today took the wheel off the AHH 
 and  road the SP with light off then on and at speed.  Took it off and road 
 the SON28.  The only difference I could discern was the SP didn't have the 
 vibration the SON28 did / all of my SON28's have at particular speeds.. 
 usually around 20ish mph and doesn't last long.  I was unable to determine 
 by ride if it has any more or less drag than the SON28 it felt the same.   
 It's also smaller and lighter than the SON28 but I couldn't tell that from 
 riding either.  Overall my first impressions are that this is a viable 
 alternative to the SON at 1/2 the price.   Guess time will tell how it's 
 longevity is.  

 Here are some photos... not good ones but photos anyway.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157631542052892/

 Kelly





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[RBW] Re: Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Kelly

Is the SP the brand Velo Orange was selling?  I just went to look and 
couldn't find a dyno hub on their site.  (though I've missed things before) 
 I had also looked at the supernova hub but it was as much as the SON28 or 
even the New SON which I would buy if spending that much money. 

Kelly

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 12:17:50 PM UTC-5, charlie wrote:

 I wondered about this hubI have the switchable one purchased from Velo 
 Orange and it works nice but want a hub for my daughter and thought of the 
 unswitched version. My only concern.does it seal against moisture as 
 well or is this just hype? I've had no problems with my current hub but 
 store it inside and haven't ridden it in the rain more than a dozen times. 
 The $130 price is better so...hmmm what to do.

 On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:04:30 AM UTC-7, Kelly wrote:

 Ok so I've got SON28 on the Bombadil, AHH and my wifes  Atlantis.  I have 
 a Shimano 3n80 on my Quickbeam.  I can notice a difference in drag between 
 the SON28 and 3N80 though negligible.   I was looking around after 
 purchasing a 68 cm RAM for a something but didn't want to shell out the big 
 bucks for the SON28.  Thought about not even having a Dyno hub for it. 
  Then I ran across the SP Dynamo and it's big claims.  I ordered one for 
 about 130 bucks.   I purchased a SD-8 non switchable.  There is rumors that 
 this company makes the Supernova hub as well though I have no documentation 
 or proof.. just spreading the rumor.  It also has the same connector as the 
 Shimano. 

 Well I built the wheel last night then today took the wheel off the AHH 
 and  road the SP with light off then on and at speed.  Took it off and road 
 the SON28.  The only difference I could discern was the SP didn't have the 
 vibration the SON28 did / all of my SON28's have at particular speeds.. 
 usually around 20ish mph and doesn't last long.  I was unable to determine 
 by ride if it has any more or less drag than the SON28 it felt the same.   
 It's also smaller and lighter than the SON28 but I couldn't tell that from 
 riding either.  Overall my first impressions are that this is a viable 
 alternative to the SON at 1/2 the price.   Guess time will tell how it's 
 longevity is.  

 Here are some photos... not good ones but photos anyway.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157631542052892/

 Kelly





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Re: [RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Brian Hanson

Kelly - where did you get the SP hub?

Brian
Seattle, WA

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 10:04 AM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ok so I've got SON28 on the Bombadil, AHH and my wifes  Atlantis.  I have
 a Shimano 3n80 on my Quickbeam.  I can notice a difference in drag between
 the SON28 and 3N80 though negligible.   I was looking around after
 purchasing a 68 cm RAM for a something but didn't want to shell out the big
 bucks for the SON28.  Thought about not even having a Dyno hub for it.
  Then I ran across the SP Dynamo and it's big claims.  I ordered one for
 about 130 bucks.   I purchased a SD-8 non switchable.  There is rumors that
 this company makes the Supernova hub as well though I have no documentation
 or proof.. just spreading the rumor.  It also has the same connector as the
 Shimano.

 Well I built the wheel last night then today took the wheel off the AHH
 and  road the SP with light off then on and at speed.  Took it off and road
 the SON28.  The only difference I could discern was the SP didn't have the
 vibration the SON28 did / all of my SON28's have at particular speeds..
 usually around 20ish mph and doesn't last long.  I was unable to determine
 by ride if it has any more or less drag than the SON28 it felt the same.
 It's also smaller and lighter than the SON28 but I couldn't tell that from
 riding either.  Overall my first impressions are that this is a viable
 alternative to the SON at 1/2 the price.   Guess time will tell how it's
 longevity is.

 Here are some photos... not good ones but photos anyway.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157631542052892/

 Kelly



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Re: [RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Ken Mattina

I bought mine on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SP-hub-dynamo-dynohub-PV-8-24-28-and-36h-The-most-efficient-and-lightest-/280955382900?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessorieshash=item416a3eec74

Ken

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 10:30 AM, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
Kelly - where did you get the SP hub?

Brian
Seattle, WA

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 10:04 AM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:

Ok so I've got SON28 on the Bombadil, AHH and my wifes Atlantis. I have
a Shimano 3n80 on my Quickbeam. I can notice a difference in drag between
the SON28 and 3N80 though negligible. I was looking around after
purchasing a 68 cm RAM for a something but didn't want to shell out the big
bucks for the SON28. Thought about not even having a Dyno hub for it. Then
I ran across the SP Dynamo and it's big claims. I ordered one for about 130
bucks. I purchased a SD-8 non switchable. There is rumors that this
company makes the Supernova hub as well though I have no documentation or
proof.. just spreading the rumor. It also has the same connector as the
Shimano.

Well I built the wheel last night then today took the wheel off the AHH
and road the SP with light off then on and at speed. Took it off and road
the SON28. The only difference I could discern was the SP didn't have the
vibration the SON28 did / all of my SON28's have at particular speeds..
usually around 20ish mph and doesn't last long. I was unable to determine
by ride if it has any more or less drag than the SON28 it felt the same.
It's also smaller and lighter than the SON28 but I couldn't tell that from
riding either. Overall my first impressions are that this is a viable
alternative to the SON at 1/2 the price. Guess time will tell how it's
longevity is.

Here are some photos... not good ones but photos anyway.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157631542052892/

Kelly

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Where did my hormones go?
Where did my energy go?
Where did my go go?
Where did the pleasure go?
Where did my hair go?

-- Ray Davies

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[RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Peter Pesce

Glad to hear your positive experience. I have one of these on order for my 
commuter. 

Common wisdom seems to be that the SP is the same as the VO and Supernova. VO 
stopped selling theirs after a couple of months due to quality issues. I've 
never heard of quality issues with the SP branded ones out there, though. 

eBay seems to be the best source for the SP. the guy selling them there appears 
to be the distributor for the US and Europe. 

Pete in CT

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RE: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

2012-09-15 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J

Does this attach securely to, say, a Mark's Rack?  How much does it wobble, 
unloaded and loaded?

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of john
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 10:27 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

I've got a Swift Cycles Rando bag for sale. New, never used. Gorgeous. $225, 
shipped.Check out their website.

On Monday, September 10, 2012 10:06:32 AM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:
I got to interview Martina from Swift this weekend. They make super nice bags 
for bicycles, and the waxed canvas option is excellent and quite Riv-ish. Check 
it out if you like. 
http://cyclingillustrated.com/local-maker-interview-vol-1-swift-industries-by-scot-hinckley/

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-15 Thread Beth H

What kind of rain gear depends greatly on where you live and how much you 
ride.

I'm a daily rider in Portland, OR and I ride all winter long.

I have been somewhat disappointed by Showers Pass, especially since they 
moved their manufacturing from Vietnam to China a few years ago. Quality 
control became inconsistent and the warranty policies became more 
unbending. I understand that a lot of their entry-level-priced items have 
undergone a redesign for 2013 but have not yet seen the new versions.

I am hanging onto my Burley Rock Point jacket for dear life. It's a better 
design than the SP touring jacket (which was basically a copy of the 
Burley) and the fabric and waterproofing have held upfor far longer. 
My friend's SP Touring jacket had issues six months in; by eight months in 
the waterproof zipper had frayed to failure and the seams were quite leaky. 
When he called SP to resolve the issues they said the jacket had to be 
washed every 4 to 6 weeks with a special soultion from NikWax -- something 
the hang tag hadn't made clear. They were willing to take the jacket in for 
inspection but could guarantee that they'd actually offer replacement, 
leaving my friend without a rain jacket in the meantime. In the end, my 
friend bought a J  G Breathable rain jacket online -- heavy-duty, 
comfortable and water-proof enough for daily riding in PDX. Also a bargain 
at $100 plus s+h. (J  G admits they purposely underprice this product to 
remain competitive, and they only sell it direct online.) He's had it for 
two years and it's still going strong.

For rainpants: On light-rain days where I'm jus dashing short spurts around 
town, I like Rainlegs. Easy on-off and very stowable, and plenty 
warterproof in light rain. For heavy rain, the water will drip down around 
the backside of the legs and get your pants wet. In that case, I switch to 
either my old Burley rain pants OR to my heavier-duty J  G Cyclewear 
Breathable rain pant. The former is okay for short commutes but so old that 
it eventually fails in a downpour. When I know it's going to rain 
bucketfuls I use the latter -- a little hot but plenty durable.

For foot coverage I'm fond of the RBW Splats for most city riding. They fit 
over most street shoes and are stowable; though the heavy waxed cotton 
takes more time to dry out between uses. SP shoe covers do seem to work 
pretty well, but you MUST take them off at your destination; if you walk 
around in them they will wear out much more quickly.

I don't use a helmet cover, preferring to wear a thin cycling cap under my 
helmet (cotton in summer, thin wool in fall/winter).

Ultimately, I think it's ideal to have rain wear that is SO good that you 
mostly *enjoy* riding in the rain. Even by February.

Beth in PDX

On Thursday, September 13, 2012 11:55:57 AM UTC-7, tragicallyaverage wrote:

 As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
 former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
 simply get soaked on my commutes. 
 I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season 
 approaches. Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?


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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Lugged stem, Paul Racer brakes, Tents, Campy Ti seatpost,650b tires

2012-09-15 Thread jimmy johnsen

Yes the Ti campy post is still for sale.

 From: Bicyclebill wbpro...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 2:21 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Lugged stem, Paul  Racer brakes, Tents, Campy Ti 
seatpost,650b tires

Hobie,
I'll take the Ti post if still available.  Please contact me offline.
Thanks,
Bill
On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 10:35:13 AM UTC-4, hobie wrote:
I have the following parts for sale. All prices include shipping. US only. 
Thanks for looking.

1- Nitto lugged quill stem 11cm. Excellent condition. $150.00
1- Campagnolo Record Titanium seatpost 27.2  $200.00  Together w. the Nitto 
lugged stem they make a nice match. The lustre is similar,the Nitto being 
alittle cooler in color.
1-Pair of Paul Racer brakes anodized silver centerpull,reach is 57-67mm. Just 
replaced the Koolstop pads. $150.00
1- Pair of Grand Bois Ourson 650bx35mm tires folding bead. Road for around 5 
miles. $60.00
1-Pair of Schwalbe 650bx38 tires, 1-pair of Fatty Rumkins 650bx41. Both have 
about 50-60% life left. Both pairs $50.00 shipped
1-Phil Wood Bottom Bracket 111mm JIS, alittle rough but still very usable. 
$55.00
4- Carradice leather straps white never used. 7-1/2 long. $22.00
1- Eureka Backcountry 1 person tent, never used. New no box. $115.00
1- Eureka Skylight 2- person tent, used a few times. $95.00

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[RBW] Re: Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread charlie

Was wondering why VO stopped selling them...the clutch wheel ears were 
bent a little on mine but it works and I straightened them with no problem. 
It was probably dropped at some point. I have occasionally had the unit 
turn off after hitting a large bump requiring that I dismount and re-engage 
the clutch switch. This wouldn't happen on the switch-less model 
but...I also have had trouble with my Lumotec Fly switch not keeping 
the light on requiring that I wiggle it which is very annoying. I may be 
switching to a Edeluxe or a Phillips front light but really wish for 
a switch-less head lamp with this hub. I know I  could use a halogen unit 
but LED lights are the best. I have had much more awareness and I think 
respect from auto drivers due to my daytime running lights. They can see me 
in the shadows on sunny days better and at dusk or when its overcast. Don't 
feel comfortable riding without them now that I have noticed a difference. 
Its not unlike riding a motorcyclepeople just see you better when you 
have decent lighting on all the time.

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:47:03 AM UTC-7, Peter Pesce wrote:

 Glad to hear your positive experience. I have one of these on order for my 
 commuter. 

 Common wisdom seems to be that the SP is the same as the VO and Supernova. 
 VO stopped selling theirs after a couple of months due to quality issues. 
 I've never heard of quality issues with the SP branded ones out there, 
 though. 

 eBay seems to be the best source for the SP. the guy selling them there 
 appears to be the distributor for the US and Europe. 

 Pete in CT



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[RBW] Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Peter Pesce

Kelly-
Do you have the SD or SV model? From my understanding of SP's nomenclature the 
V is the non-disc and the D is the 6 hole disc version. Also the S 
indicated the small wheel version, correct? Any feedback on low speed behavior 
of the S hub? I ordered the 700c wheel version, I believe it's the P series, 
because I don't mind a few extra grams and read one review where they noticed 
odd behavior of the S model at low speeds. 
(apologies if I have this all completely bass-ackwards!)

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Any RAAM riders here?

2012-09-15 Thread lungimsam

Past, present, future?

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[RBW] Re: Dyno - SP Dynamo Hub

2012-09-15 Thread Kelly

I have the PV-8 36 On the box they show the SV-8 SD-8 (switchable) and then 
the PV8 and PD-8  Non-switchable.  
I bought mine on Ebay wiht free shipping.  I had some questions on a couple 
of things and when I asked I received quick responses.   So all seemed 
good. 

I did go look at the Supernova site and the housings appear different 
though the descriptions seem very similar.

Kelly

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 2:02:14 PM UTC-5, Peter Pesce wrote:

 Kelly-
 Do you have the SD or SV model? From my understanding of SP's nomenclature 
 the V is the non-disc and the D is the 6 hole disc version. Also the 
 S indicated the small wheel version, correct? Any feedback on low speed 
 behavior of the S hub? I ordered the 700c wheel version, I believe it's the 
 P series, because I don't mind a few extra grams and read one review 
 where they noticed odd behavior of the S model at low speeds. 
 (apologies if I have this all completely bass-ackwards!)

 Pete in CT


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[RBW] Another coroplast bar bag

2012-09-15 Thread Joe Broach

With hat tips to RBW regulars TapeBubba for the joinery idea and Cyclofiend
for the raw materials.

I finally got around to building a prototype bar bag from a campaign sign.
I learned a lot, but the basic design goals were achieved! I wanted
something that was waterproof, opened and closed like a Berthoud, didn't
need a decaleur, mounted and unmounted quickly, and would hold a six-pack
and mini u-lock. Oh, and didn't cost much, since I wasn't sure how it would
handle on my medium-high trail bike. The bag used up almost every square
inch of a single (16x24) campaign sign.

I can already see how these front bags get addictive. I took it out on a
50-mile test run and had a blast fiddling around in my stuff to my heart's
content. The Romulus handled the weight fine (probably no more than 5
pounds, though more after a grocery stop the last mile). I could still ride
no handed no problemo. I had to keep my act together pedaling no handed, or
else a little shimmy would remind me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/sets/72157631544583459/with/7989848093/

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice