rod,
I use both zoneplate and pinhole bodycaps with my 10d
- fab images.
Don
--- RodWilson wrote:
> anyone use a digital camera with a pin hole?
>
>
> on 10/15/03 6:26 PM, ethereal art at
> ethereal...@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> >> Message: 3
> >> From: ed...@attglobal.net
> >>
> >> ..althoug
Ben,
What type of ortho are you using? This sounds
interesting to me.
Don
--- bendur...@aol.com wrote:
> Dear All
> I have been using ortho in coke can pinhole cameras.
> But the negatives appear to be positive upon
> development.
> Could anyone tell me why this should be?
> Cheers
> Ben
>
>
The rings mostly occur when scanning with the shiny
side of the film face down - and especially when you
lay a piece of glass over the film to hold it flat to
the scanner glass. If you lay the negatives emulsion
side down you should not get newton rings.
Scanning emulsion side down and without gl
Hi Paul,
I purchased the updated 2450, the Epson 3200 a few
months back and could not be happier. It will do all
that you are asking at a very affordable price. I
compared the results with a Nikon Coolscan IV at my
University and I very much prefer the Epson.
Oh - one more thing. It really loo
Yes, depending on the camera. Older cameras with an
aperture priority metering option work best. Two that
come to mind are the Nikon FE and the Olympus OM-2.
Both have worked quite well for me with auto-exposure
pinholes.
Don
--- Wally & Wolfgang Thoma-Schuermans
wrote:
> Imagine, I want to u
I have a circle of black plastic (1" diameter) with a
1/8 inch hole in the center. To the back of this
plastic piece I have mounted and centered a pinhole
made from .001 brass shim (you can use anything though
- pop can, foil, whatever). I superglued this piece
to the camera. What used to be the
Shannon,
All you need to do is pry off the lens/shutter
assembly with a flat metal implement(I use a kitchen
knife). Remove the underlying shutter and mount your
pinhole. I can send you a pic of one I did if you
need a bit of visual assistance.
Don
--- Shannon Stoney
wrote:
> >
> > This may b
Heidi,
This may be blasphemy - but any of the diana variants
are easily converted.
Don
--- CRABBE Heidi S wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone recommend a medium format camera (6x6)
> that's simple to convert to pinhole?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Heidi
>
>
> __
Jason,
Do you make contact prints taken with the Finney - if
so are the contact prints as sharp as the 4x5 contact
prints? Since you may be enlarging quite a bit more
than with your 4x5, it would appear less sharp.
Additionally, you could check the pinhole with a
loupe, just to see if any junk
Murray,
Congratulations - the billy record is a great camera
to modify. I received one from my grandpa that was in
horrible shape. I lobbed off the front, and taped a
board across the face making a superwide 40mm 6x9.
You can remove the lens by partial dissasembly of the
shutter (I believe yo
The lubitel would be easier to compose the image -
zoneplates can be pretty dark depending on outside
light conditions. It is similar to stopping down your
lens to f64 while looking through the lens.
Don
--- Guillermo wrote:
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Colin & Linda McKie"
> >
Another easy camera to modify is any of the old kodak
or similar 120 folding cameras that have basic
shutters. The lens is generally a single element and
easily knocked out and replaced with a zoneplate - and
you have a negative up to 6x9.
A body that I am working with is a very large old
kodak
Shelley,
I am still quite the novice with film scanning.
However, I have used various scanners with good
results. I do not know if you really need a high-end
film scanner. It seems the all of the newer flatbed
epson scanners with transparency adapters work quite
well for most purposes. The eps
Cj and All -
Regarding the darkroom, I have almost given up on
mine. Last week CompUSA had a great deal on the new
Epson 3200 scanner that I could not pass up.
Accordingly, I have spent the last week scanning and
printing various negatives (pinhole and otherwise),
via MIS Quadtones and I can on
A few months back on Ebay I purchased a large
collection of Dianas that were unused in the original
packaging (I'll wait for the collective gasp heard
round the world - or at least on this list).
Much to my dismay, one camera's shutter was completely
froze up. In a fit of creativity, I not so gen
Sherry,
You do not need a special drill bit - just one that
isn't too big, nor too small - anything 1/8 inch and
smaller is a good starting point. A useful bit is
made for a Dremel Tool and is shaped like a cone. If
you drill from the front, it makes a nice beveled
edge.
--- sherry rea wrote:
Ben,
Pinhole bodycaps are the best thing since nikkor
lenses. However, it would be just as easy to build
one as to purchase one, and you would save a few
dollars.
--- bendur...@aol.com wrote:
> Hello
> Are pinhole bodycaps anygood?
> I want to buy one from pinhole resource but I don't
> know i
ss when these are in place, you can't use the
> viewfinder?
> Do you just kind of point and hope?
>
>
> On Sunday 23 March 2003 02:03 pm, D. Hill wrote:
> > James,
> >
> > If I can include very cool pinhole things on ebay
> -
> > zoneplate bodycaps
James,
If I can include very cool pinhole things on ebay -
zoneplate bodycaps for nikon and canon eos, items
2919261336 and 2919262111. God bless Ebay.
Don
--- James Kellar wrote:
> I was just taking a look on ebay and found lots of
> good pinhole items.
> Everything from a panoramic pinhole
I'm glad someone brought this up. It seems that any
camera on the site in question is a direct rip-off of
others ideas and concepts. I am all for free-trade
and commerce, however, I would have a greater respect
for an original product line - not just
reverse-engineered copies.
Don
--- Steve Ree
Allright, this is interesting - I'm going to visit my
Mom and get the rusty old lawn darts out and do this
too...
Don
--- John Moore wrote:
>
> Okay- NOW YOU'RE TALKING!!!
>
> I have a pnuematic nail gun... now all I need to do
> is figure out how to jam the safety (this is hard
> with only
Well, allright then, my "legal" name - Bob D. Bobson
IV. But instead of money, I only have
Snickerdoodles... Good thing I didn't tell you to get
the shotgun for a multi-hole pinhole project...
Don
--- John Moore wrote:
>
> Okay, I've gone & made the camera. I took a 16x11x11
> cardboard box
In the revised edition of Renner's Pinhole (I can't
remember where and too lazy to look) someone did what
you are attempting as a self-portrait - Very Cool. I
believe it was a much more powerful projectile though.
Don
--- Philip willarney wrote:
> pinhole-discussion@p at ???
>
> The marti
The finney bodycaps seem a bit pricey for a $1.75
bodycap with $.02 brass shim material attached.
However, if it had a much smaller pinhole it would be
a much more useful item.
--- Ed Nazarko wrote:
> The Finney pinhole that's made for Nikon says, on
> the paper that comes
> with it, that it's
nother link
> Jimmy
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "D. Hill"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 10:21 PM
> Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Remember the daylab
> discussion?
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Just a cheesy self-promotion here.
Hi all,
Just a cheesy self-promotion here. About a month back
I wrote about the marvels and joys of working with a
Daylab for image transfers. Well I found a few extras
to work with at my university and I am selling my
personal Daylab II on ebay if anyone wants it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayIS
Bob,
I'll give the dissenting view from the rest. I would
encourage the use of film developer with paper
negatives - especially rodinal.
If you want the paper to respond as film does, pick up
a package of Kodak Panalure. It's panchromatic, so
you need to develop it in total darkness (NO
safelig
Ben,
Unfortunately the Vivitar is no longer manufactured -
thus commanding high prices in the used arena.
Another reccomendation would be to purchase a Daylab
35 or a Daylab Jr. It works the same as the vivitar,
however you have more controls (cc filters and a
greater variable flash time) than t
I guess I came late to this discussion, but just now I
made a hole in a box and made a pretty picture
happy holidays -
Don
__
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Any of the time-life series (and their various
offspring) plastic cameras are great to convert, and
some can be modified for a bulb setting - very time
consuming and rewarding for such a goofy camera that
makes great pictures. I just looked at mine, and it
is labeled as a "Nishiki Super II" This
Ben,
Not to digress to much from your intention, but you
can skip the cyanotype all together and create vandyke
brown prints. The process is pretty much the same and
photoformulary kits are about the same price. It
produces a rich brown tone suited well for pinhole.
Don
> bendur...@aol.com wro
Hi all,
Due to the cost difference of type 55, I am
considering the use of polaroid type 665 for a
project. Has anyone tried the polaroid neg's with
printing platinum? This will be my first attempt with
the medium and any information will be appreciated.
My worry is that the neg will not have a
Now I don't work for them, and I would rather boycott
than utilize... but most Sam's club and Wal-Mart
stores have Fuji Frontier machines in their one-hour
labs. Unfortunately I live in a small town just south
of Kodak-ville and they are the only photo processor
around with a Frontier. They are
Hi Ronnie, welcome to the list.
In my work with pinhole and zoneplate bodycaps I use
any slide film which is of high contrast due to the
low-contrast nature of pinhole. My latest ventures
are with Velvia, a nice contrasty slide film. If you
have good friends in a developing lab, or if you have
Calumet stocks them, do they have a storefront?
--- "Eric S. Theise" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm doing a workshop this Sunday and next Thursday
> at the Chicago
> Printmakers Collaborative. If there's anyone on the
> list that knows a
> photo (or other) store in Chicago that has Holgas in
> stock most
Hi all,
I will be using polaroid type 669 in a pinhole
utilizing daylight. Has anyone done any color
correction tests so that I may bave this information
before I start? Specifically, what gel do I need to
correct for any overall color casts? My goal is to
have the pics as "neutral" as possible
Steve,
The older model, #500, is the one some people can't
quite get to work right. These go for about $5 plus
shipping on a good day. I used one exclusively with
Type 55 P/N (black and white), and with the type 79
(color). Mine was pretty busted and old but it worked
perfectly. I think the ne
Ben,
Try a longer exposure, for if the image washes away it
was not exposed long enough. Also, as the image
dries, it intensifies. A quick check of this is to
put a washed test print in a drymount press or print
dryer.
Don
--- Ingo Guenther wrote:
> Hi Ben,
> at first try to use water in a t
cobbling together, a
rangefinder 4x5, and I can only use the smallest of
4x5 backs preferably the grafloc.
Don
--- Guillermo wrote:
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "D. Hill"
>
> > Does anyone have a spare 4x5 spring or grafloc
> back?
> > I re
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have a spare 4x5 spring or grafloc back?
I really need one, write me with what you want for it.
Don
__
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Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
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is means I would have to dismantle the film
> cartridge and remove the
> sheets individually.
>
> Will it be obvious which is the right side to
> expose?
>
> Can I use a rolling pin or similar to develop?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Ian
>
> P.S. I don'
Ian,
Is this the intregal film, for the one-step cameras?
You will know if the film pack has two foil dots on
the metal base (battery contacts)
If so the easiest method is to build your camera
around the entire cartridge - not just shooting one
sheet at a time. You will need a polaroid 600 or
sx
Gustavo,
I too was in the same predicament. I moved from a
large town to a small town and found myself without a
reliable processing lab. Years ago I used a unicolor
film tank and roller base (poor man's jobo)to process
E-6 materials with great success, but I did not want
to worry about keeping
Gordon,
Sounds much like the Granview cameras- http://www.granview.com - an excellent
idea to modify and use for pinhole.
Don
"Gordon J. Holtslander" wrote:Hi:
Since things are quiet...
I want to build something to take closeups of small objects. I keep
seeing little things on the ground that
Allright, we all make beautiful cameras, and Little League games shouldn't keep
score, and everyone who graduates from High School is qualified to be one of 80
co-validictorians. Now what I wrote was concerning pinhole cameras in
production (lensless, renner, you get the idea.)
These are the m
That has to be the most beautiful pinhole camera in production.
Don
"John D. esq" wrote:can be seen at:
http://www.johndesq.com/jdp/hal.htm
Regards,
John D. esq
__
JOHN D. PHOTOGRAPHY
WWW.johndesq.com
__
C
Hi All!
Quick question, Have any of you tried RA-4 paper in a pinhole? My university
has a dry to dry processor which we will be using this semester for color work.
My idea is to cut down Crystal Archive, Luster finish, so it will fit into a
film holder. This I will process and scan on my f
Hi everyone,
After all this time in the darkroom, I have found it to be a good time to
simplifly and condense some space with a Jobo Duolab. Do any of you use this?
I have a specific question about it's agitation for the film tube, and whether
it continuously spins in one direction, or if it
Rune,
For standard bodycaps the pinhole to film distance on the EOS cameras is 46mm.
Don
Rune Tallaksen wrote:I am wondering if any of you more experienced people on
the list can
help me with this minor challenge. I will like to mount a pinhole on a
bodycap and put it on one of my EOS bodies.
I
Steve,
You have some interesting replies so far, so I'll keep this brief so that you
do not get overwhelmed by all the good answers.
1. If you are interested in scanning to Photo CD and are going to do more than
100 scans, consider a trip to CompUSA. Most of them carry a small dedicated
35mm
Amen Leonard! You're the king!
Don
Leonard Peterson wrote: I know, from working years in a
camera store and teaching photography
classes, the following: Lots and lots of picture takers talk and talk
techniques to death and never making any prints. The only way to find
something out is to
Well friends, it's happening again... I don't want to be a Fuji fanatic -
preferably an evangelist. If you want a good substitution for good-ole Tri-X,
get a can of Fuji Neopan 400. Still the same film it was 10 years ago, and
still the same film 10 years from now.
Thanks for the info Andy,
Another note on papers. I used to use Ilford, but I got cranky at the price
one day so I picked up a box of Mitsubishi Gekko Matte, tried it and liked it -
and It's also great for proofs. It is a wonderful matte surface VC RC paper,
and is quite inexpensive at about $33 for 100 - 8x10. It d
This is dependant on the camera manufacture, cameras such as the blessed
Olympus OM2 have an amazing Off The Film metering. You can use a dirty glass
plate in place of a lens and you will have an accurate exposure via aperture
priority since it measures the amount of light which hits the film
Aperture priority will work, and a quick and easy method to deal with any
reciprocity is to do a few things, first, half your ASA rating on your camera
and shoot merrily while you smile. Additionally, If you are shooting B&W you
can use a more efficient or compensating developer in the proces
You can get the 120 and 35mm Acros at B&H, but the 4x5 is not available in the
states. However it should be available in Canada, if you can get someone to
ship it to you.
Don
Leonard Peterson wrote:
Where do you get 120 in the States? Does anyone have access to 4x5?
_
Colin,
Acros is Fuji's new 100 speed black and white film, and unfortunately it is not
a repackage of SS, just a new film. I too am a great fan of Fuji's black and
white materials, and work that I have done with across shows that it is an
amazing film - incidentally, it is a great substitutio
Absolutely - go to your local Wal-mart and in the house paint section they
have long rolls of black plastic for about $5. I forget the name but it is a
thick substance. Anyway, cover all light entry points with this material and
tape it around the window perimeter either to the sill or the w
Hi all,
This is in response to a thread we had a month or so ago. I just returned from
a week of shooting in and around Grand Rapids, MI. To my surprise, the Grand
Rapids airport is one of 5 nationwide which has installed the latest and
greatest in x-ray technology. Immediately as I entered
Chad,
I use an older gossen luna-six for pinhole, unfortunately it only goes to f90,
but I just set the meter to ASA 25 when shooting tmax 100 and use the reading
on f90 - it works well for my work.
Don
chad white wrote:
what is a good light meter for pinhole f-stops ? i am lurking e-bay ,
the focal length of
the lens you are using? Quite possibly it may be too short to project the
entire negative image. Another possibility is that your supplementary
condenser is in a wrong slot for your enlarging lens on the D2. Hope this
helps.
Don
"Eric S. Theise" wrot
I'll second Len's advice on a used D2 - they may be a bit more expensive than
other used enlargers but it quite possibly is the last enlarger you will ever
buy.
Don
Leonard Peterson wrote: Shannon Stoney wrote:
I am looking for a used enlarger. I looked on ebay and the good ones are
going f
Listmembers,
On a recent flight to Orlando, I made the decision not to bring the photo
equipment. This turned out to be a good thing, as my wife and I were subjects
of a two-hour wait for the security check. It did pain me not to bring my
equipment, but it did offer me an opportuinity I did
Good luck with the slit images, I just did a series with the same process -
beautiful images result from the process - not quite pinhole, not quite
anything else, just remember to keep the slits clean - if not you get a
horrible banding across the image - sorry but the run on sentences are kind
If you use only one slit, the image is very diffused and will be greatly
stretched in the same direction as the slit, it is actually a great process.
However, if you use 2 slits perpendicular to each other, one in front of the
other and offset by a short distance (say the depth of a washer), y
Beau,
I would first suggest a shorter exposure time in camera for less contrasty
negs. If Dektol is not sufficient at a dilution of 1:20, an alternative would
be to use film developer in a weak dilution. Rodinal in a dilution of 1:100
for about 6.5 minutes looks dynamite. Actually, Rodinal
Kate,
An easy and inexpensive camera to convert would be the Holga, it has the
rangefinder but you would be limited in shutter speed control. - one speed, no
time or bulb settings.
Another easy camera to convert would be an older Agfa Isolette or Jsolette.
It's a 6x6 120 camera with a viewing
Greetings,
I have also considered piezography, however it is questionable whether it would
work with my epson 875dc. My prints are generally quite smallish, no bigger
than 6x9 and I have great results with the epson ink sets. There are plenty of
users who find fault with the Epson 870/1270 i
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