[apple-crop] Copper and Dogs
Just how much copper can be safely used in the pring for FB control, I use 2 oz in 100 gal , no sign of russet, have perfect completion even on Pink Lady, and, it looks like we could use a lot more on nursery trees and young trees not fruiting yet. , Also as everybody knows the sickly sweet smell that FB has, Can a dog be trained to alert on FB before its even apparent to us humans? I might trust a dog more than some computor program, anybody ever try this?? On Tue, 8/18/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 10 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Tuesday, August 18, 2015, 3:17 PM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 (David A. Rosenberger) 2. Re: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 (Vincent Philion) 3. Re: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 (Vincent Philion) 4. Re: Looking for comments on fire blight management (Smith, Timothy J) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2015 18:37:13 + From: David A. Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 Message-ID: 0e94bf9f-5e75-4f1c-bdea-df6acd4db...@cornell.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 Strep is extremely stable if it is kept dry and out of direct light (e.g., in a closed cardboard drum or foil package). It does break down in sunlight. I don?t know if other components in the formulations might ?age out? and become less effective (e.g., less surfactant activity), but the strep itself should remain stable. Strep sprays are NOT a waste of money IF (1) inoculum is present at bloom, and (2) weather conditions favor flower infection during bloom. Unfortunately, none of the available models can predict whether or not inoculum is present in any give orchard, so we end up spraying orchards that really would not need protection if we had a way of knowing that they were free of inoculum AND that that no inoculum would be brought to the orchard throughout the remainder of the bloom period. Lacking such a tool, strep provides valuable protection even though it may not be needed in many cases where it is applied. Of course, strep applied during bloom does not prevent shoot blight if inoculum arrives in the orchard only AFTER bloom is over, but shoot blight is generally far more severe in orchards where there was at least a bit of blossom blight. Bottom line is that strep does not resolve all problems with fire blight, but without strep we would have a lot more orchards being bulldozed every year due to fire blight epidemics. There are some relatively new alternatives to strep, but all of them are either more expensive, less reliable, or (usually) both. And the fact that I am promoting the value of strep sprays does not negate the possibility that increasing copper nutrition could be beneficial. In fact, applying a low rate of copper in all spring sprays as Lee Elliot has suggested could be really beneficial in terms of reducing blight inoculum within the orchard before and during bloom. However, I also suspect that in some years and with some cultivars, those in-season copper sprays will cause at least a bit of fruit russetting. Just because copper russetting has not be noted this year or last year or even for the past five years, one cannot be certain that it will NEVER be a problem. Dave Rosenberger, Plant Pathologist, Hudson Valley Lab, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528 Cell: 845-594-3060 On Aug 18, 2015, at 10:58 AM, Fleming, William w...@montana.edu wrote: Lee, can't help you on reading your date but we had a 35 lb. drum of strep dated 1972 that I didn't trust. Had the guys in the lab plate it out, it killed all the bacteria they introduced it to. The drum had been stored in a cool dry place Bill Fleming Montana State University Western Ag Research Center 580 Quast Lane Corvallis, MT 59828 -Original Message- From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of lee elliott Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 5:52 AM
Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8
Just my personal experience, dont know if any studies made, I think a lot of the problem is copper deficiancy, after doing leaf analysis, my copper levels were in the bottom of the scale, alsso in soil analysis, added Kocide 3000 to dormant spray, and small amount (2oz per 100 gal) in spring sprays, also copper added to herbicide spray, copper levels in leaf analysis came up but stil not normal, I have less FB and can see the difference. Also, nothing beats staying on top of the situation by walking the orchard every morning and cut it out before it spreads, this works well for small orchards like mine. Most of my FB is shoot blight, I think strep sprays are a waste of $$$. This my be because the strep is old, does anyone know how to read date of manufacture on the bag?? Lee Elliott, Apple Hill/ Upstart Nursery, Winchester, Illinois On Sat, 8/15/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Saturday, August 15, 2015, 11:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Looking for comments on fire blight management (Weinzierl, Richard A) -- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 21:26:58 + From: Weinzierl, Richard A weinz...@illinois.edu To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for comments on fire blight management Message-ID: f1da5cce7c3ebe43b873f3bd2ba709a73d62b...@citesmbx6.ad.uillinois.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 U of I Kane County Extension Office, 535 South Randall Road, St. Charles, IL Rick From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Vincent Philion Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 12:49 PM To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for comments on fire blight management Hi Tim! nice to read you! I think there are more sources of fire blight bacteria in the general environment in the northeastern USA due to your woodlots and forests (with feral apples and native hosts such as Hawthorne) as contrasted with the treeless conditions around many eastern Washington orchards. I agree! But still is fascinating to see whole areas without FB and others with FB, despite similar weather. We often make ?false positive? predictions because of this = conditions are great for FB, but not FB develops because bacteria are simply not there. We have nice qPCR data throughout bloom to prove it. The bacteria (in the hypanthium) need to thrive in the nectary in order to reach numbers sufficient to switch on their virulence. Once this is accomplished you have an infection. Do you have a good reference for me on this specific topic? When I reviewed the literature, I only found a few things from Pusey. This might explain some cases. We can learn a great deal about interpreting models by looking at the weather data around the time that we are fairly certain that isolated infection events occurred. We can also look at when expected infections did not occur. It would be very helpful to me if any of you would share weather data including rainfall, hourly temperature (or daily temps) and especially leaf wetness readings. Please send data that covers days from first bloom to about 3 to 4 weeks after petal fall. Excel files are a real time saver. We?re Also looking for the same type of data?! Vincent -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://virtualorchard.net/pipermail/apple-crop/attachments/20150814/cce4e9cf/attachment-0001.html -- ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop End of apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8 * ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 53, Issue 6
Crop is very light here in central illinois but wa sheavy last year (Good, I wanted to go fishing anyway) but fire blight (from blooms) is in gran smith, pink lady, ambrosia but none seen in HC. or Gala. Lee Elliott, Apple Hill of Scott County. On Thu, 5/14/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 53, Issue 6 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Thursday, May 14, 2015, 10:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: crop prospects (Michael Vaughn) 2. Re: crop prospects (Kushad, Mosbah M) 3. Re: crop prospects (David Doud) 4. Re: crop prospects (Con.Traas) -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 May 2015 08:25:26 -0400 From: Michael Vaughn mvaugh...@gmail.com To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] crop prospects Message-ID: caojfrfq85+illpkw4p7hlsun-onpur3lndbcb0hjfzv7wvo...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Arthur, I have a small Orchard in NE Pa. and the trees are loaded with Blossoms. The flowers opened starting Monday PM and full open by mid-day Tuesday. Going to be a very heavy set given the dry weather forecast and nice 70 d days. On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 12:41 PM, Arthur Kelly kellyorcha...@gmail.com wrote: I don't know about the rest of you but if we get any kind of pollination weather the crop will be very heavy and difficult to thin. The potential bloom at this point is scary. We are at pink except for cracking some king flowers on Zestar, Paulared, Gingergold etc. -- Art Kelly Kelly Orchards Acton, ME ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop -- Michael D. Vaughn Owner / Manager Pie-In-the-Sky Orchards -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://virtualorchard.net/pipermail/apple-crop/attachments/20150514/81efc470/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Thu, 14 May 2015 13:56:20 + From: Kushad, Mosbah M kus...@illinois.edu To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] crop prospects Message-ID: 1447278bc155034b9f635594f555d74f8e4e9...@chimbx6.ad.uillinois.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The update from Illinois is relatively good.. We also had snow bloom and sunny and warm few days during the early part of bloom which gave us good fruit set on the kings. But the weather turned cold and windy during the middle and end of the bloom which has kept the bees in their hives.. Never the less, we should have pretty good crop. My concern is for the persistent cold weather that we are still having, which is likely to reduce the thinners activity, especially NAA and MaxCel. Just curious.. I have not seen any recent postings from our Irish/Dutch friend Con Trass. I hope is just busy counting his profit from last year. Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Michael Vaughn Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 7:25 AM To: Apple-crop discussion list Subject: Re: [apple-crop] crop prospects Arthur, I have a small Orchard in NE Pa. and the trees are loaded with Blossoms. The flowers opened starting Monday PM and full open by mid-day Tuesday. Going to be a very heavy set given the dry weather forecast and nice 70 d days. On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 12:41 PM, Arthur Kelly kellyorcha...@gmail.commailto:kellyorcha...@gmail.com wrote: I don't know about the rest of you but if we get any kind of pollination weather the crop will be very heavy and difficult to thin. The potential bloom at this point is scary. We are at pink except for cracking some king flowers on Zestar, Paulared, Gingergold etc. -- Art Kelly Kelly Orchards Acton, ME ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop -- Michael D. Vaughn Owner / Manager Pie-In-the-Sky Orchards -- next part -- An HTML
Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 49, Issue 6
What has worked for me is too stratify the seeds at 1 degree C. in spagnum moss for at least 10 weeks, making sure they stay moist, then remove the seed coats and transfer to clear plastic containers that allow light to hit the seeds, but not strong light, at room temperature, shortly the embryos turn green and start to grow the radicle, after the radicle is about an inch, transfer to small pot with radicle in the soil and the cotyledon sticking out, then place under florescent lamps about 2 inches away from bulb, use a heat mat and make a growing chamber to keep humidity in, at that stage the start to grow with vigor, after they reach 6 inches transfer to styrofoam cups and move under my 1000 watt grow lamp for several weeks, move plants outside on nice days to harden them off, then plant in nursery in mid April, prune off all side shoots as the tree grows (every 3-4 days) to put energy into the tops. This method has has made many seedling grow 6=7 feet in one season about 70 nodes. (they look like whips with no limbs) the idea is to get the growing tip past the juvenile period quik, Then graft the tip to a limb graft on a mature tree that has been prepared the year before.By this method the limb graft will fruit in about 2 years. This is not hard to do, and I encourage others to breed new varieties , I have been very successful, with 7 new varietys now being sold to the public. only trouble is that older varieties are hard to sell as my customers prefer the new ones.There is a huge market for variations of Honey Crisp. I am not waiting for a commercial nursery to wake up. Lee Elliott, Cider Hill Nursery, Winchester Illinois. On Mon, 1/5/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 49, Issue 6 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Monday, January 5, 2015, 2:58 PM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: How to excise malus seeds (Ian Alexander Merwin) 2. Re: How to excise malus seeds (Hugh Thomas) 3. Re: How to excise malus seeds (Hugh Thomas) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 18:05:51 + From: Ian Alexander Merwin i...@cornell.edu To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] How to excise malus seeds Message-ID: bb5126b7-e7e2-47f3-9686-1e71fb34d...@cornell.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Lee- We used to germinate thousands of apple seeds each year to use in our replant disease soil bioassays. Our protocol was to collect the seeds from apples that had been in cold storage for a month or so; rinse them in a 10% clorox solution; then dust them with captan or a similar fungicide; then line them out in trays of moist peat moss or vermiculite. We could germinate several hundred seeds per 12 by 24 inch tray, planting them about 1 inch deep in parallel seed lines about 2 inches apart. After several months in a 40 degree F refrigerator the healthy seeds would germinate and sprout. We would transplant them into 4 inch pots with soft tweezers, when they had 2 to 4 true leaves (not counting the cotyledons). You could also group the resultant seedlings by their probable chill unit requirements, assuming that those germinating first had lower chill requirements. Hope this is helpful! By the way Lee, those cider apple trees that I got from you on Bud.9 rootstocks about 20 years ago are all still growing and producing well in my home orchard! Several of them (Kingston Black, Stoke?s Red, Magog Redstreak, White Jersey, etc.) have provided a lot of useful budwood for local nurseries to propagate those varieties, which has been a great help to craft cider-makers. Thanks! Cheers Ian Ian Jackie Merwin Black Diamond Farm, LLC 4675 East Seneca Road Trumansburg, NY, USA, 14886 E-mail: i...@cornell.edumailto:i...@cornell.edu Website: www.incredapple.comhttp://www.incredapple.com On Jan 05, 2015, at 11:27 AM, lee elliott pippm...@yahoo.commailto:pippm...@yahoo.com wrote: Anyone know an easy way to excise malus seeds, in my efforts to breed next generations of my Honey Crisp crosses I always have about half of my collected seeds are excised (split) and embryo are easy to remove. (germination rate of embryos removed from seed coat are much higher
[apple-crop] How to excise malus seeds
Anyone know an easy way to excise malus seeds, in my efforts to breed next generations of my Honey Crisp crosses I always have about half of my collected seeds are excised (split) and embryo are easy to remove. (germination rate of embryos removed from seed coat are much higher, close to 90% while unexcised seeds is about 15%) The best way so far is to soak the seed(after statification) and drag the seed gently accross a piece of sandpaper, rubbing the side of the seed where the hilum is located, then prying it apart with fingernails. this a very slow tedious procedure and may even contaminate the embryo. With hundreds of seed to excise and poor eyesight this is a most daunting task. I have googled this but nothing comes up, any ideas? Lee Elliott, Cider Hill Nursery, Winchester, Illinois ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 17
Thanks but I need something for nursery trees and bearing trees, deer have chewed off the fruit buds on lower limbs, few apples on lower limbs, all in the tops, have had some luck with one strand of barbwire, about 3 feet high, with aluminun foil crinkeld over the wire evey 30 feet, baited with peanut butter, works good, is cheap and easy, but coons find it and clean off the peanut butter, how do they do that??? On Tue, 6/10/14, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 17 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Tuesday, June 10, 2014, 11:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Deer, Fireblight, Liquid Fence (Mark Helen Angermayer) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2014 09:02:42 -0500 From: Mark Helen Angermayer angermay...@gmail.com To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Deer, Fireblight, Liquid Fence Message-ID: CANdwC8N3UiwoaOt1TZedRJGXygXDcdiosf5ge=rhvsbyqab...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I use a product called Bobbex. From a trial which seemed objective, it out-performed other deer repellant products. This product is recommended only for use on non-bearing trees, as it supposedly imparts an off-flavor to the fruit, which was actually a selling point for me. Anything that lasts so long as to render sprayed fruit inedible must last a long time. I've been using it for the last three years on new plantings with good success. My experience so far with it is that deer won't eat sprayed foliage, but will eat any new growth unsprayed. At their recommended mix, Bobbex is about 1/2 price for finished spray compared to the liquid fence mentioned above. A 5 gallon pail costs about $200 online. I've been mixing it at 1/2 of recommended strength and still getting good protection as long as new growth is covered. I use it on new trees during the rutting season and it also seems to help reduce rutting. We have plans to put an electric fence up in the near future which of course is the only true protection. Mark Angermayer Tubby Fruits -- ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop End of apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 17 ** ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 10
The fruit shows no sign yet, are about one inch size, trees are on m26 and bud9, most are full grown8 to 12 years old seems to show up a month or so before harvest, looks just like the same thing I used to have on Red Del before I took them out, I spray them with Surround about a month before harvest,(before they start to color) makes the cull rate about 25 percent cant sell apples with spots at the market, thinking of liming the trees but no time right now. Grandad used to throw a scoop shovel of lime under each tree, but soil samples show a 6.2 is that a good idea?? On Wed, 6/4/14, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 10 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Wednesday, June 4, 2014, 11:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Managing bitter pit in Honeycrisp (lee elliott) 2. Re: Managing bitter pit in Honeycrisp (Kushad, Mosbah M) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 18:56:32 -0700 (PDT) From: lee elliott pippm...@yahoo.com To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Managing bitter pit in Honeycrisp Message-ID: 1401846992.11463.yahoomailba...@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 After reading a bunch of web sites about this problem, none really offer a plan, I only am concerned with bitter pit that shows at harvest and about 3 weeks thereafter, fresh market sales,in small quarter peck bags, dont give a hoot about storage because I am usually sold out in 3 weeks, I have some Foli-cal, how much to add to 100 gal tank and how many times during the season? Is it a good idea to add fungicide or Imadan, or spray by itself? Later I will spray trees with Surround to control sunburn, does it contain calcium, or prevent Cal uptake after applied? Ps the label on foli-cal is confusing, talks about per acre, does not compute. Its a 100gal tank sprayed to run off. Thanks, Lee Elliott On Tue, 6/3/14, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 9 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2014, 11:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to ??? apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: ???1. Scaffolds 6/2 (Arthur M. Agnello) ???2. Geneva 202 (Kevin Versnyder) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 20:57:45 + From: Arthur M. Agnello a...@cornell.edu To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Scaffolds 6/2 Message-ID: cfb25d1c.20be8%a...@cornell.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A new issue of Scaffolds for the week of 6/2 has been posted and is available at: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/2014/SCAFFOLDS%206-2-14.pdf A version formatted for mobile devices is available at: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/2014/6-02MD.pdf This issue contains the following items: NSECTS - Orchard Radar Digest - Clearwing borers of stone fruits - Stinkbug survey closing soon PEST FOCUS INSECT TRAP CATCHES UPCOMING PEST EVENTS Arthur M. Agnello Professor and Extension Tree Fruit Entomologist Dept. of Entomology? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? a...@cornell.edumailto:a...@cornell.edu N.Y.S. Agric. Expt. Sta.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Tel: 315-787-2341 630 W. North St.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ???Fax: 315-787-2326 Geneva, NY? 14456-1371 Agnello Lab page: http://blogs.cornell.edu/agnellohttp://web.entomology.cornell.edu/agnello/links.html Scaffolds Fruit Journal online: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/index.html -- next part -- An HTML attachment
[apple-crop] Managing bitter pit in Honeycrisp
After reading a bunch of web sites about this problem, none really offer a plan, I only am concerned with bitter pit that shows at harvest and about 3 weeks thereafter, fresh market sales,in small quarter peck bags, dont give a hoot about storage because I am usually sold out in 3 weeks, I have some Foli-cal, how much to add to 100 gal tank and how many times during the season? Is it a good idea to add fungicide or Imadan, or spray by itself? Later I will spray trees with Surround to control sunburn, does it contain calcium, or prevent Cal uptake after applied? Ps the label on foli-cal is confusing, talks about per acre, does not compute. Its a 100gal tank sprayed to run off. Thanks, Lee Elliott On Tue, 6/3/14, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote: Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 9 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2014, 11:00 AM Send apple-crop mailing list submissions to apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net You can reach the person managing the list at apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of apple-crop digest... Today's Topics: 1. Scaffolds 6/2 (Arthur M. Agnello) 2. Geneva 202 (Kevin Versnyder) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 20:57:45 + From: Arthur M. Agnello a...@cornell.edu To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Scaffolds 6/2 Message-ID: cfb25d1c.20be8%a...@cornell.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A new issue of Scaffolds for the week of 6/2 has been posted and is available at: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/2014/SCAFFOLDS%206-2-14.pdf A version formatted for mobile devices is available at: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/2014/6-02MD.pdf This issue contains the following items: NSECTS - Orchard Radar Digest - Clearwing borers of stone fruits - Stinkbug survey closing soon PEST FOCUS INSECT TRAP CATCHES UPCOMING PEST EVENTS Arthur M. Agnello Professor and Extension Tree Fruit Entomologist Dept. of Entomology a...@cornell.edumailto:a...@cornell.edu N.Y.S. Agric. Expt. Sta. Tel: 315-787-2341 630 W. North St. Fax: 315-787-2326 Geneva, NY 14456-1371 Agnello Lab page: http://blogs.cornell.edu/agnellohttp://web.entomology.cornell.edu/agnello/links.html Scaffolds Fruit Journal online: http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/index.html -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://virtualorchard.net/pipermail/apple-crop/attachments/20140602/c5f68fd7/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 21:41:13 -0400 From: Kevin Versnyder vsfr...@yahoo.com To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Geneva 202 Message-ID: e4801017-9a7b-43ff-8626-ef612748f...@yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii David Kollas, check out the latest issue of Good Fruit Grower. An abundance of great info on the upcoming and already proven Geneva rootstocks. Kevin J. VerSnyder -- ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop End of apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 9 * ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
[apple-crop] arsenic in apple juice
There is a lot in the news about arsenic being found in apple juice. It's not clear if it's imported or domestic juice, My guess is the problem is related to old orchard ground still being used that is poluted with lead and arsenic from years of spraying. I own some unplanted ground that granddad grew apples on in the 1920s and 1930's.. I have a photo of him sitting on a bulldozer pulling a huge sprayer with a platform on top,a man on top hosing 30 foot trees with arsenic of lead, they soaked them good, I think they used DDT too later on. Would soil test tell if this ground is safe? What level of arsenic found in soil is safe? Does it mater if the arsenic is organic or nonorganic? Does arsenic and lead,or DDT persist in soil or does it break down. How do I know if this ground is safe to grow anything? Lee Elliott, Apple Hill of Scott County, Winchester, Illinois___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
[apple-crop] Hornets and Honey Crisp
My HC's are devastated by hornets again this year, about 25% have holes,hornets feeding, they only like the sweet apples,not even touching Jonathan, have found two nests and torched them, these are black with white markings, I'm thinking I will spray my rows (after picking) with Pounce to kill the ones feeding, maybe they will take some back to the nests. I have some Nox Out I've tried with cat food bait but little effect, I wonder if a person could watch them and find their nests? Does anyone have any ideas? These pests are never even mentioned in the spray books. They are a big problem in growing HC, they attack way before coloring or ripening. Lee Elliott, Apple Hill of Scott Co. Illinois___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight
I've been burning off root suckers on trees older than 4 years with glysofate (round up) with hand spray gun, for some years without apparent damage. the intent is to kill suckers before they get FB. (johnathans on M-7 are the worst to get it) Is this a good strategy? It seems to work, Don't get FB from root suckers, mainly shoots which I prune out every day, like immediately. I've done it so much I can spot the suble change of color to a lighter green and can smell it too. Ever notice that sickly sweet nasty smell? it goes on for some weeks after blooms are gone. Seems to stop after a good hot day. I remember Tom Vorbeck using a blow torch on FB to kill it. Does that really work? Lee Elliott, Upstart Nursery, Winchester, Il --- On Wed, 4/27/11, Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: From: Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Wednesday, April 27, 2011, 8:37 PM Hello, Lee -- I just realized that I never responded to your last questions on using copper for fire blight. I'm sure that one could burn apple leaves using high rates of copper, but I think that leaves are pretty resistant. The problem is that fruit are very sensitive, at least for some cultivars. The amount of damage that will occur from a very low rate of copper will be affected by the cultivar, the growth stage, and the weather conditions before and during the application. Thus, it is very hard to make a simple generalization. As I recall, Paul Steiner, the scientist who developed MaryBlyt, did a sabbatical leave in Wenatchee, WA many years ago and came back quite excited about the fact that they had used low rates of copper to protect against fire blight right through the bloom period and found no fruit damage. However, when he tried that in Maryland, it didn't work. It is my impression that if you apply low rates of copper using low volumes of water per acre and make the applications under conditions where the spray dries very quickly, then you may get away with virtually no fruit russetting so long as relative humidity also stays low for at least a few days after the spray is applied. The problem seems to be that free water on the plant surface interacts with copper deposits to release copper ions, and it is quite easy to get too many copper ions released at the same time on the hypanthium at the base of the flower that eventually becomes the fruit, or later, on the fruitlet surfaces. Chances of succeeding are much higher in arid climates than in eastern United States. Thus, for a fresh fruit grower who is growing Empire, McIntosh, or any yellow-skinned variety of apple under typical conditions in the eastern 3/4th of the US, I don't think that one can ever be certain that a copper spray applied between half-inch green and the 4th of July, regardless of how low the rate, will be totally safe. It might work in some years, but not in others. Some apple cultivars are also much less sensitive to copper injury than Empire and Macs, but I'm not aware that anyone has ever really quantified and reported those differences. In China where growers must fight an Alternaria leaf spot, they use high rates of copper throughout summer (at least that is my impression), but they avoid fruit damage by enclosing each fruit in a paper bag shortly after fruit set. That may be one way to use copper without getting fruit injury, but I doubt that system holds much promise for US growers! Dave, I agree with that, IT would seem, the that copper would be good to apply to nursery trees and root suckers,since they are non-bearing and get shoot FB easily. Will leaves burn on nursery trees? Somewhere lately I've read where very small amounts of fixed copper, (like one Tablespoon in 100 gal water.) give some protection without any danger of hurting finish,What do you think about that? I've done this without any apparent damage. Something here seems to work because I used to have a lot of FB in the nursery every year. Thanks, Dave. Lee Elliott Upstart Nursery/Apple Hill Winchester, Il. --- On Mon, 4/18/11, Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: From: Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Monday, April 18, 2011, 3:56 PM To follow up on a few items: 1. I would agree that controlling shoot blight is a lot more difficult than controlling blossom blight. We really know relatively little about the dynamics of shoot blight, except that it is almost always more severe if one does not control blossom blight. We know that bacteria are disseminated to new shoots by wind and rain so long as shoot are actively growing, but so far we have no good methods for controlling shoot blight. 2. In northeastern United States, we believe very strongly that using streptomycin during
Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight
I've been burning off root suckers on trees older than 4 years with glysofate (round up) with hand spray gun, for some years without apparent damage. the intent is to kill suckers before they get FB. (johnathans on M-7 are the worst to get it) Is this a good strategy? It seems to work, Don't get FB from root suckers, mainly shoots which I prune out every day, like immediately. I've done it so much I can spot the suble change of color to a lighter green and can smell it too. Ever notice that sickly sweet nasty smell? it goes on for some weeks after blooms are gone. Seems to stop after a good hot day. I remember Tom Vorbeck using a blow torch on FB to kill it. Does that really work? Lee Elliott, Upstart Nursery, Winchester, Il --- On Wed, 4/27/11, Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: From: Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Wednesday, April 27, 2011, 8:37 PM Hello, Lee -- I just realized that I never responded to your last questions on using copper for fire blight. I'm sure that one could burn apple leaves using high rates of copper, but I think that leaves are pretty resistant. The problem is that fruit are very sensitive, at least for some cultivars. The amount of damage that will occur from a very low rate of copper will be affected by the cultivar, the growth stage, and the weather conditions before and during the application. Thus, it is very hard to make a simple generalization. As I recall, Paul Steiner, the scientist who developed MaryBlyt, did a sabbatical leave in Wenatchee, WA many years ago and came back quite excited about the fact that they had used low rates of copper to protect against fire blight right through the bloom period and found no fruit damage. However, when he tried that in Maryland, it didn't work. It is my impression that if you apply low rates of copper using low volumes of water per acre and make the applications under conditions where the spray dries very quickly, then you may get away with virtually no fruit russetting so long as relative humidity also stays low for at least a few days after the spray is applied. The problem seems to be that free water on the plant surface interacts with copper deposits to release copper ions, and it is quite easy to get too many copper ions released at the same time on the hypanthium at the base of the flower that eventually becomes the fruit, or later, on the fruitlet surfaces. Chances of succeeding are much higher in arid climates than in eastern United States. Thus, for a fresh fruit grower who is growing Empire, McIntosh, or any yellow-skinned variety of apple under typical conditions in the eastern 3/4th of the US, I don't think that one can ever be certain that a copper spray applied between half-inch green and the 4th of July, regardless of how low the rate, will be totally safe. It might work in some years, but not in others. Some apple cultivars are also much less sensitive to copper injury than Empire and Macs, but I'm not aware that anyone has ever really quantified and reported those differences. In China where growers must fight an Alternaria leaf spot, they use high rates of copper throughout summer (at least that is my impression), but they avoid fruit damage by enclosing each fruit in a paper bag shortly after fruit set. That may be one way to use copper without getting fruit injury, but I doubt that system holds much promise for US growers! Dave, I agree with that, IT would seem, the that copper would be good to apply to nursery trees and root suckers,since they are non-bearing and get shoot FB easily. Will leaves burn on nursery trees? Somewhere lately I've read where very small amounts of fixed copper, (like one Tablespoon in 100 gal water.) give some protection without any danger of hurting finish,What do you think about that? I've done this without any apparent damage. Something here seems to work because I used to have a lot of FB in the nursery every year. Thanks, Dave. Lee Elliott Upstart Nursery/Apple Hill Winchester, Il. --- On Mon, 4/18/11, Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: From: Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Monday, April 18, 2011, 3:56 PM To follow up on a few items: 1. I would agree that controlling shoot blight is a lot more difficult than controlling blossom blight. We really know relatively little about the d___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight
Dave, I agree with that, IT would seem, the that copper would be good to apply to nursery trees and root suckers,since they are non-bearing and get shoot FB easily. Will leaves burn on nursery trees? Somewhere lately I've read where very small amounts of fixed copper, (like one Tablespoon in 100 gal water.) give some protection without any danger of hurting finish,What do you think about that? I've done this without any apparent damage. Something here seems to work because I used to have a lot of FB in the nursery every year. Thanks, Dave. Lee Elliott Upstart Nursery/Apple Hill Winchester, Il. --- On Mon, 4/18/11, Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu wrote: From: Dave Rosenberger da...@cornell.edu Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Copper Deficiency and Fire Blight To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Monday, April 18, 2011, 3:56 PM To follow up on a few items: 1. I would agree that controlling shoot blight is a lot more difficult than controlling blossom blight. We really know relatively little about the dynamics of shoot blight, except that it is almost always more severe if one does not control blossom blight. We know that bacteria are disseminated to new shoots by wind and rain so long as shoot are actively growing, but so far we have no good methods for controlling shoot blight. 2. In northeastern United States, we believe very strongly that using streptomycin during summer to control shoot blight will result, over a relatively short period of years, in the selection of strep-resistant strains of fire blight. Based on recommendations dating back to the early 1960's, strep has never been recommended in NY for summer sprays except when hail hits an orchard with existing fire blight infections. I believe that this strategy is responsible at least in part for the fact that we have never detected strep-resistant fire blight in NY except where it was introduced with nursery stock. By comparison, strep-resistant Erwinia is common in areas where growers in the past opted to use repeated applications of strep during summer to control shoot blight. 3. Copper sprays for controlling shoot blight have been tested by many scientists (including me), and as Dave Schmitt suggested, with only limited degrees of success. That doesn't mean that they never suppress blight, just that they are not consistently effective and that they rarely provide complete control. 4. If one reads the publication by Lewis and Kenworthy (for which Richard Bell posted the abstract), you will see that they actually had somewhat MORE blight in pear trees with high copper levels than in their control trees. Excess boron was especially detrimental (i.e., the trees got more blight), but high calcium levels were beneficial. However, trees in that trial were wound-inoculated, so we cannot be certain that results would be the same following natural dissemination to shoots in an orchard. And who knows if the same nutritional effects would hold true for apples and for all cultivars of apples? 5. I suspect, based on observations without any replicated trials to confirm it, that applications of copper at relatively high rates and/or in repeated applications may slow growth of newly planted trees. If and when that occurs, it might make those trees less susceptible to blight just because they are growing a bit more slowly. However, slowing the growth of newly planted trees is not generally desirable, so we're back to square one: we still have no reliable method for controlling the spread of shoot blight. Hi Lee, Copper is an excellent antibiotic. The reason it is seldom used during the growing season is because, as you have noted, it affects fruit finish and can be phtotoxic. A growers willingness to tolerate poor finish is directly related to the intended use of the fruit. Market growers cannot sell fruit with poor finish. Processing growers may have a greater tolerance for poor finish. We have experimented with summer copper applications in severely blighted blocks to stem the spread of the disease with limited success. We have also tried very low rates of copper hydroxide to prevent shoot blight, again with limited success. In my experience even at very low rates copper results in poor finish. What you are probably seeing is less a function of plant nutrient levels and more of copper's efficacy at suppressing or preventing shoot blight. On 4/17/2011 7:51 AM, lee elliott wrote: I might believe this theory but my orchard has constantly been replaced with new trees and top works so only 10% of the original trees planted in 1994 exist. I grow 800 or so nursery trees every year, not getting FB in the nursery either, Whether it's proved or not,I believe from personal experiance that FB susceptability is directly proportional to Copper deficiancy. My experiance with Streptomyacin has been it's a waste of time and money,It's shoots and suckers that get infected
Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing
--- On Sun, 2/27/11, Randy Steffens Jr randyjrsteff...@me.com wrote: From: Randy Steffens Jr randyjrsteff...@me.com Subject: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Sunday, February 27, 2011, 6:10 AM How much vertical distance do you generally employ to separate primary scaffold branches on semi-dwarf Apple trees trained to central leader? Various university publications don't agree on spacing. Cornell extension publication 112 (written 1972) says at least 8 inches vertically between each branch is necessary, and that less space can cause the central leader to loose dominance. But more recent publications from other universities such as Univ. of NC and Univ. of VA imply it's fine if they all emerge from practically the same level. Is the Cornell publication old advice, or is the spacing really not that big a deal? What are the spacings you use for common rootstocks like M106 or G11? Is there any compelling reason to move towards adopting Cornell's textbook approach in our orchards? Randy Steffens Jr Shepard's Valley OrchardsMIddle Tennessee -Inline Attachment Follows- _My experience, Spacing has to do with what you have to pay for land and how much you want to reduce labor,how important coloring is,, Wide planted trees are easier to prune,pick,good to color all around the tree,(lower cull rate),less transfer of fire blight and alot easier to get good spray coverage. As long as I have many unplanted acres left on my ground,I will space wide, I have Gala on B-9 and m-9 at 6 foot spacing, should have been 12 feet,Goldens on G11 at 8 feet, should have been 14.Some of my rows were 18 feet,just right, some were 14 feet,disaster, If you have reasonable priced land give yourself plenty of room.Quit thinking X number of bushels per acre,that;s a trap, think bushels per orchard. lee Elliott,, Winchester,IL apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] [Apple-crop] Apples from seedling trees
Thanks Randy,my original plan was to grow a seedling tree,take a scion and limb graft it.some of these limb grafts had outstanding apples but the seedling's apple's (in every case but one) looked the same but lacking in soluable solids,smaller, poor or off taste. My new seedling trees in the nursery will be disgarded and 2 scions from each will be limb grafted,I'm wasting my time growing these seedling to test,will test on limb grafts on B-9 trees, my goal here is a Honey Crisp like apple that will grow well further south, I've tried to grow HC since 1994 and failed most years,Honey Crisp is a disaster to grow here in Western Illinois, too hot, too humid,poor color,very high cull rate,not proffitable,too many on the ground.So far I have a number of good crosses I'm testing on my customers,Excellent response,Some day may offer these through my own nursery.Not ready yet,Big nurserys and universitys won't offer their new varietys to us little guys, I hope to change that.Lee Elliott.Upstart Nursery,Winchester,IL. Due to patent laws,nothing is for sale at this time. --- On Sat, 2/26/11, Randy Steffens Jr randyjrsteff...@me.com wrote: From: Randy Steffens Jr randyjrsteff...@me.com Subject: Re: [apple-crop] [Apple-crop] Apples from seedling trees To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Saturday, February 26, 2011, 7:12 PM Good evening Lee, Regarding your January question about seedling apple trees: several studies have shown a significant correlation between rootstock variety and fruit taste/quality. See the links below. It does seem surprising however that the difference in quality would be as marked as you describe. Perhaps there are additional factors play here. Randy Steffens Jr Shepard's Vally Orchards Middle Tennessee http://irrec.ifas.ufl.edu/flcitrus/UF%20IFAS%20Short%20Course%20Proceedings/factors/rootstock.pdf http://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/0304423885900184 http://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/0304423894007452 http://treephys.oxfordjournals.org/content/26/1/93.full.pdf Not sure whats going on here,anybody experienced growing seedling trees? I started crossing Honeycrisp with Gala,Pinova,Pink Lady, Goldrush,in 1997,Produced hundreds of seedling trees I planted in 1998,also made 2 limb grafts of each on 5 year old M-9 and B-9 trees,some old Golden Del and others.,started getting apples on the limb grafts in 2 years, the seedlings some at 4 years, Afew of the limb grafts (20-30) of of 900,were outstanding in quality right away while the seedling tree's apples were tasteless or off flavored but looked the same, Now,some years later the seedlings still are worthless in Quality (taste,dissolved solids),even when properly thinned, Whats going on here,are all apples more tasty on dwarf? and less quality on seedling?Will the seedling ever be any good?The seedlings range from 12 feet to 40. I don't expect to sell any of these, this is an experiment. Lee Elliott, Winchester,Illinois, Upstart Nursery -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
[Apple-crop] Apples from seedling trees
Not sure whats going on here,anybody experienced growing seedling trees? I started crossing Honeycrisp with Gala,Pinova,Pink Lady, Goldrush,in 1997,Produced hundreds of seedling trees I planted in 1998,also made 2 limb grafts of each on 5 year old M-9 and B-9 trees,some old Golden Del and others.,started getting apples on the limb grafts in 2 years, the seedlings some at 4 years, Afew of the limb grafts (20-30) of of 900,were outstanding in quality right away while the seedling tree's apples were tasteless or off flavored but looked the same, Now,some years later the seedlings still are worthless in Quality (taste,dissolved solids),even when properly thinned, Whats going on here,are all apples more tasty on dwarf? and less quality on seedling?Will the seedling ever be any good?The seedlings range from 12 feet to 40. I don't expect to sell any of these, this is an experiment. Lee Elliott,Winchester,Illinois, Upstart Nursery ___ Apple-crop mailing list Apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis
Wish I couldsee a photo of this water drill, not clear, how do you cut,bend a 6inch pieceof 4inch pipe, how about a photo, Lee Elliott, winchester,il --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Fleming, William w...@montana.edu wrote: From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 10:09 AM Nick, the way it works when you use a tractor drawn tree planter is the logical place for the trellis poles is in the groove made by the planter. If you attach the wire to the outside of the post with stapes the wire ends up half the post width out of line with the tree row. That usually ends up being the 3-4 inches you mentioned. Even if you don't use a planter better that the posts are in line with the tree row, wire will then be offset from the row. Other things I've learned: Rather than placing the trellis posts halfway between trees place them close to the tree. Depending on your tree spacing placing the post midway creates a small dead space that's harder to deal with for weed control. This is especially true if you're organic and using mechanical weed control but the post can also create a herbicide spray shadow. With the post close to the tree you end up with one extra small space and another space almost equal to your tree spacing. Using water to set the posts is the best method I've found. I made a tee shaped handle with 3/4 steel pipe, valve on the top of the tee. Since we were using 4-5 posts I attached a 6 inch long piece of 4 pipe at the bottom of the tee. It was cut, bent, and welded to a point with a 1/2 outlet at the bottom for the water to exit. Water at 80 psi from a sprayer is plenty. Volume is more important than pressure. With a two man crew we could set a very solid post in less than 30 seconds. One guy with the water, the other sets the post and plumbs it. You have to work very fast before soil suspended in the water settled, if it takes more than a second before the water drill is pulled out of the hole and the post is set it won't be as deep as you want. The way it worked seemed excellent to me. Rocks and gravel would settle at the bottom of the post hole creating good drainage for the post. The fine silt that settled out of the water rapidly set up almost like concrete. Much faster than an auger, less expense than a tractor mounted pounder. Bill Fleming Montana State University Western Ag Research Center 580 Quast Ln Corvallis, MT 59828 (406)961-3025 -Original Message- From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Nick Lucking Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 10:49 PM To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis Bill, That's good to know. On that note, when I plant these new trees should they be planted directly inline with the trellis system? Or be 2-3, or more inches off the wire initially? Thanks for the help, my horticulture degree did not quite cover this! Nick Lucking Field Manager Cannon Valley Orchard Cannon Falls, MN -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content. -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content.
Re: Apple-Crop: posts for organic orchard
I have Hedge posts (osage orange) that have been in the ground since the50's and not rotten yet, They grow on the farm and are ffree for cutting, Downside is they grow crooked but will make trellis posts that last as long as you will. Lee Elliott Winchester, il --- On Sat, 1/30/10, Gary Mount gbmo...@alumni.princeton.edu wrote: From: Gary Mount gbmo...@alumni.princeton.edu Subject: Apple-Crop: posts for organic orchard To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Saturday, January 30, 2010, 7:34 PM I will be planting an orchard for organic production this year and am looking for a solution to obtaining posts. As far as I know, treated posts are not acceptable in the NOP (I would love to stand corrected on this one) and I don,t like metal posts very much. I saw some really nice concrete posts at Fruit Logistica last winter in Berlin, but don't know of any in the USA. Can anyone point me in the right direction? - Gary Mount Terhune Orchards 330 Cold Soil Rd Princeton, NJ 08540 609-924-2310 609-924-8569 fx 609-462-9672 cell -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content.
Apple-Crop: Mystery Apple
My 2nd guess is Ralls, Lee Elliott Winchester, Il Mystery apple? Grown in northern Virginia, courtesy Keith Yoder, Virginia Tech. Just harvested. Likely an antique variety from the area. Note the short stem and rather pronounced lenticel spotting. http://yfrog.com/3lih8j P.S. He knows what it is and 5 bucks is riding on it. Jon -- JMCEXTMAN Jon Clements cleme...@umext.umass.edu aka 'Mr Liberty' aka 'Mr Honeycrisp' IM mrhoneycrisp 413.478.7219 -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content. -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content. -- The 'Apple-Crop' LISTSERV is sponsored by the Virtual Orchard http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon Clements webmas...@virtualorchard.net. Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for the content.
Re: Apple-Crop: Early bearing
What really worked for me was to top-work N Spy onto 8 Year old Bud 9 or M9 trees, some were old Gold Del some were Johnathan, top works were producing well in 3 years, Lee Elliott, Winchester, Il --- On Tue, 3/10/09, Harold Schooley schoo...@kwic.com wrote: From: Harold Schooley schoo...@kwic.com Subject: Apple-Crop: Early bearing To: Apple-crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 2:32 PM Would someone care to divulge a recipe for getting slow-to-bear varieties into production sooner. I have Northern Spy in mind using Ethrel or NAA or combinations. Apogee perhaps. Other techniques? Harold Schooley Schooley Orchards Limited Simcoe, Ontario Canada
Apple-Crop: Stooling Beds
From: Lee elliott pippm...@yahoo.com Subject: Apple-Crop: Stooling beds To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Date:Wed, 1-28-09 How to start a stooling bed, can't find anything on Google
Apple-Crop: U. S. Farm Bill
What do you want to see in the new Farm Bill? The only $$ my small orchard gets is the$$$ from the WIC Senior Farmers Market coupons, would like to see that expanded, growing fruit on land where program crops are grown, not so sure. What do you think? Lee Elliott, Winchester, Il. - Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
