Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Bob, I can't remember at the moment which orbital sander I have. It was a cheapo from one of the big box stores though. I want all the tools. I want a drill press, a jointer, a planer, I'll settle for a combo jointer planer. A table saw. I want it all. Of course, I'll have no idea of what to do with the stuff. :-) Sadly, there is never enough money to go around, nor enough time to play with all the toys, and I've got a stupid full time job, and a travel addiction to deal with. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
And as I recall, more tools brings up the other problem of where do I put them... Fortunately my addiction is tools. And as I walk around, or try to walk around in my shop I realize I don't have too many tools, but the ratio of tools to square feet of shop has to be increased. I picked up an 8 inch Grizzly jointer off Creg's list and promptly converted it to a spiral cutter head model. I've found that the mobile bases they sell don't really do a good job of moving tools on a wooden floor so I have done a bit of modifying and all my tools on rollers have 3.5 to 4 inch casters now. I can twist on the tablesaw and actually rotate it with 1 hand. Good thing too because I have to put it in strange places at times so there is room to use other toys... But keep after it and a little at a time you'll get those tools and also be able to say Where the h*** am I going to put it... - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. Bob, I can't remember at the moment which orbital sander I have. It was a cheapo from one of the big box stores though. I want all the tools. I want a drill press, a jointer, a planer, I'll settle for a combo jointer planer. A table saw. I want it all. Of course, I'll have no idea of what to do with the stuff. :-) Sadly, there is never enough money to go around, nor enough time to play with all the toys, and I've got a stupid full time job, and a travel addiction to deal with. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Nearly three years after beginning the deck, I am still working on it. It turned out to be a beautiful weekend, so I uncovered the lumber, and dragged the miter saw and stand up out of the basement. I didn't do to much, but got the upper landing decked over. It's slow going because of the notching around posts. A couple of screw-ups, but not too bad. I made a beautiful perfect notch in one board, and when I laid it down, realized that I made the notch about 1.5 inches too close to the end of the board, so had to redo it. I let most of the boards run wild over the ends of the joists and then trimmed everything flush to the rim joists. With mounting all the decking from below, it is a lot of overhead work. Luckily, I have a small, light, but surprisingly powerful driver. I still need to deck the lower landing, then do the railings for the landings and the stairs. Should be done by the end of the month. yeah, right. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Dan, do you own a belt sander so when all done you can do a bit of rounding of corners and edges ?Lee On Mon, Apr 06, 2009 at 02:51:28PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote: Nearly three years after beginning the deck, I am still working on it. It turned out to be a beautiful weekend, so I uncovered the lumber, and dragged the miter saw and stand up out of the basement. I didn't do to much, but got the upper landing decked over. It's slow going because of the notching around posts. A couple of screw-ups, but not too bad. I made a beautiful perfect notch in one board, and when I laid it down, realized that I made the notch about 1.5 inches too close to the end of the board, so had to redo it. I let most of the boards run wild over the ends of the joists and then trimmed everything flush to the rim joists. With mounting all the decking from below, it is a lot of overhead work. Luckily, I have a small, light, but surprisingly powerful driver. I still need to deck the lower landing, then do the railings for the landings and the stairs. Should be done by the end of the month. yeah, right. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 -- I keep seeing spots in front of my eyes. Did you ever see a doctor? No, just spots. Are you curious? Visit my web site: http://www.sedac.mailsent.net
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Lee, I don't have a belt sander, but I did run an orbital sander over the railing cap and I did use the router to chamfer all the edges of the railing cap and the ends of the deck boards. So far, everything looks pretty good. The miters at the corners of the railing seem to be holding up well so far. I biscuit joined them together, and angle screwed them together from below, so I am hoping they will stay joined for a few years before they start to open. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Wow! No telling what you'll be able to do with a few more tools. What kind of orbital sander do you have? You can do some serious rounding over with an 80 grit disk. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 4:49 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. Lee, I don't have a belt sander, but I did run an orbital sander over the railing cap and I did use the router to chamfer all the edges of the railing cap and the ends of the deck boards. So far, everything looks pretty good. The miters at the corners of the railing seem to be holding up well so far. I biscuit joined them together, and angle screwed them together from below, so I am hoping they will stay joined for a few years before they start to open. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] deck update
With all the rain I have not been doing a whole bunch. The next thing to do is the roof rafters. I won't start unless we have a very nice sunny day to see as much as possible. .bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
It has been a while since I've complained about the deck project. Here is some of the latest and greatest. I am somewhat unhappy about the French door installation. It is my fault for not knowing what to be asking for, and for panicking and asking my friend to help me, who I knew would do it in the easiest manner, and not the best manner. I should have gotten a door with extended jams, that way I could mount the jams to the wood framing of the house, and the fronts of the doors would have been flush with the brickwork. since I got normal width jams, I think about 4 inches wide, we mounted the jams flush to the inner wall of the house, thus they are set back from the brick face and will not open 180 degrees against the outer wall. I didn't know there existed extended jams. the reason I chose to mount it to the wood framing rather than the brick exterior, was for two reasons. I knew it would have been a bitch and a half to mount it to the bricks. Secondly, maybe I'm paranoid, but the way the bricks were falling out while I was hammer drilling into them for the deck ledger board, I had serious concerns that the constant opening and closing of the doors would have eventually shook some of the bricks loose that the door was secured to. The fact that the door now sits behind the brick face, means that there is a significant gap all around the door between the backs of the brick face and the door. My friend who does things fast and easy wants to just bend some Aluminum and calk it into place along the vertical gaps, and slip a piece of stainless steel under the bottom threshold and over the bricks, and calk it in place. My brother-in-law says sure, you can do it that way, but it will look like shit. He told me how he would do it. He is a contractor and his specialty is fine trim work, so I trust his advice. The first part is easy. Just get some 1 by cedar planks and glue them to the brick and tack a few nails in nearer the jam to keep everything tight, then calk some nice seems along the edge. Sounds reasonable. I could even rout a decorative edge along the outer edge of the cedar. the bottom sounds much more difficult, so of course, that interests me because I am a masochist. Basically, I have to break out the tops of the bricks all along the door opening, this is a soldier course so I actually have to break the bricks. I break them down at least two inches. Then I pour a cement sill in there, right up to the bottom of the door, forming a cement sill or threshold. OK, there is one harder version of this, but I am not quite that crazy. He said if I wanted the nice brick look, I could then take a bunch of bricks, cut them to length, and lay them in there sideways and mortar them in place rather than use a cement step. My excuse is that I need all the bricks we ripped out to brick up the back door once all the rest of this is done. So I learned a lesson. Well, two lessons. You don't know what you don't know, and that will always bight you in the ass. Secondly, if you want something to look good, never ask a guy who fixes up section 8 housing for help. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Hi Dan, Have you considered removing the door, building out the extension on the frame say using biscuits and maybe constructing what ever amount of frame to inset into the brickwork then reinstall the door. It would mean some reconstruction and renewing some of the trimming on the inside but it would mount the door in the way you need and want. It would look good too. You might want or need to create a face frame over the face of the brick if you don't have the room for an inset frame and insulate the space. Depending on the nature of the bottom, you might be able then to install a pressure treated wood sill. Of course you could also remove the door and replace it with a brand new one. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 3:48 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. It has been a while since I've complained about the deck project. Here is some of the latest and greatest. I am somewhat unhappy about the French door installation. It is my fault for not knowing what to be asking for, and for panicking and asking my friend to help me, who I knew would do it in the easiest manner, and not the best manner. I should have gotten a door with extended jams, that way I could mount the jams to the wood framing of the house, and the fronts of the doors would have been flush with the brickwork. since I got normal width jams, I think about 4 inches wide, we mounted the jams flush to the inner wall of the house, thus they are set back from the brick face and will not open 180 degrees against the outer wall. I didn't know there existed extended jams. the reason I chose to mount it to the wood framing rather than the brick exterior, was for two reasons. I knew it would have been a bitch and a half to mount it to the bricks. Secondly, maybe I'm paranoid, but the way the bricks were falling out while I was hammer drilling into them for the deck ledger board, I had serious concerns that the constant opening and closing of the doors would have eventually shook some of the bricks loose that the door was secured to. The fact that the door now sits behind the brick face, means that there is a significant gap all around the door between the backs of the brick face and the door. My friend who does things fast and easy wants to just bend some Aluminum and calk it into place along the vertical gaps, and slip a piece of stainless steel under the bottom threshold and over the bricks, and calk it in place. My brother-in-law says sure, you can do it that way, but it will look like shit. He told me how he would do it. He is a contractor and his specialty is fine trim work, so I trust his advice. The first part is easy. Just get some 1 by cedar planks and glue them to the brick and tack a few nails in nearer the jam to keep everything tight, then calk some nice seems along the edge. Sounds reasonable. I could even rout a decorative edge along the outer edge of the cedar. the bottom sounds much more difficult, so of course, that interests me because I am a masochist. Basically, I have to break out the tops of the bricks all along the door opening, this is a soldier course so I actually have to break the bricks. I break them down at least two inches. Then I pour a cement sill in there, right up to the bottom of the door, forming a cement sill or threshold. OK, there is one harder version of this, but I am not quite that crazy. He said if I wanted the nice brick look, I could then take a bunch of bricks, cut them to length, and lay them in there sideways and mortar them in place rather than use a cement step. My excuse is that I need all the bricks we ripped out to brick up the back door once all the rest of this is done. So I learned a lesson. Well, two lessons. You don't know what you don't know, and that will always bight you in the ass. Secondly, if you want something to look good, never ask a guy who fixes up section 8 housing for help. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.8/1363 - Release Date: 4/7/2008 8:56 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Well, weighting down the joists worked on one out of three. We replaced the two problem joists, re-installed the blocking and the Deck Master rails, put up two more railing posts, and finally got some deck boards on the deck. Apparently, Teresa's powers of mental imagery are not as sharp as mine. Between me not being able to draw the basket weave pattern for the deck boards in any meaningful way, and Teresa not being able to picture what I was talking about, we did have a rather heated discussion on the topic, and I now have to do a bit of trimming but I think we are still moving forward with no major issues in our way. I am going to try and get one or two deck boards up each night this week and then possibly a lot of them this weekend. I would actually take some time off work to do it this week, but sadly, I cannot. Just the latest update. Didn't get to buy any new tools this weekend. There is always next weekend though. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck Update
Barry, sounds like a plan. However, at the rate I work on the deck, I may have to come to the party dressed as a railing. Hmm, there's an idea, everyone has to bring a screwdriver and attach one or two balusters. I'll supply the beer and food. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Deck Update
Come one, come all... To the Halloween party on Dan's deck! Dan, since Halloween falls on a Wednesday this year, do you want to throw this party on the Saturday prior to Halloween, or the one after Halloween? It's all the same to me. What can I bring? --Barry
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
So, I believe I described the issue that three of the joists got installed crown down. These joists were then significantly lower than the adjacent joists which meant trouble when it came to the deck boards. I bit the bullet and managed to extract the three joists and flip them over. It was a bit of work, but much less work than I expected. However, not terribly surprisingly, all the other joists had been crown up and sagging toward level for several weeks. These three joists had been crown down and sagging further for the last several weeks. So, after flipping them over, they are now higher than the adjacent joists. S, I slung some large buckets over the middles of the joists and loaded them with a bunch of bricks. Hopefully that will hasten their sagging until they are closer to level with the other joists. I have said this before, but I am reasonably confident that this weekend I will start to put the deck boards down on half the deck at least. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Cy, that is the great thing about this list, there are people on here who can commiserate with me. People who have made the same mistakes. Helps me to feel a bit less stupid at times. I am all up for going and crying in a beer or two with you. Take it easy. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Hey Folks, Did some work on the deck over the last few days. Some progress, but we may have to undo a lot of what we did depending on some testing I do over the next few days. I made a huge rookie mistake and it is about to bight me in the ass. I assumed that all 2X10 lumber was 1.5X9.5. In reality there appears to be a bit of variation in dimensions. Also, I attempted to place all the joists with crown up however, at least two of the joists got installed upside down. Along with some pretty severe crowning on a few joists I have a significant amount of variation in the heights of the tops of the joists. Now, I should have done some work in the beginning, before nailing everything in place to try and align the heights of the joists better, so I might have to go back, rip out a couple of joists and flip them over and hopefully get things to line up a bit better. There are a couple of places where there is a half inch difference between one joist and the joist next to it. That is definitely a problem. I need to figure out if there are a couple of joists that are just badly crowned up and I can maybe grind them down a bit, or possibly just flipping a couple of joists will do the trick. I won't know until I get up there and start sliding some boards around and seeing where the problem is. It came to light as I started putting in the blocking between joists. You could really see how badly the blocking lined up in a few places. Oh well, another set back, and another learning experience. Not sure how much more learning I can handle. *GRIN* Friday was a killer day as we had to haul, quite literally, a ton of lumber up the four flights of stairs to the courtyard. We purchased all the deck boards, plus the rails for the railing, a couple of extra 2X10 boards for the blocking, and an odd 2X8 for the center span where all the deck boards will meet. We must have made 25 trips up and down the stairs. I rigged up a couple of slings from flat webbing that we could drape over our shoulder and load up each side with lumber. Then the two of us would lift it and walk the load up the stairs. It saved wear and tare on the hands and forearms but was a killer on the back and shoulders. anyway, not sure how much of a set-back this will be, but the deck project continues. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Dan, My very good friend you *have made my day!* Once upon a time I ass-u-med that all 4X8 wood paneling was, indeed, 48X96. (stupid me) I put up the uprights on 2 foot centers only to discover that - oh dear - those panels were 47.5 wide. Didn't make too much difference for the first couple but, alas, long about panel 3 or so all I had to attach to was thin air... Yup, know how you feel. Man it is hard to get good lumber these days! I have some 2X6 and when I lay some of them on edge I have the same problem with the crowning. It is a good inch off. Tell you what, let's both go somewhere and cry in our drink Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 2:11 PM To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. Hey Folks, Did some work on the deck over the last few days. Some progress, but we may have to undo a lot of what we did depending on some testing I do over the next few days. I made a huge rookie mistake and it is about to bight me in the ass. I assumed that all 2X10 lumber was 1.5X9.5. In reality there appears to be a bit of variation in dimensions. Also, I attempted to place all the joists with crown up however, at least two of the joists got installed upside down. Along with some pretty severe crowning on a few joists I have a significant amount of variation in the heights of the tops of the joists. Now, I should have done some work in the beginning, before nailing everything in place to try and align the heights of the joists better, so I might have to go back, rip out a couple of joists and flip them over and hopefully get things to line up a bit better. There are a couple of places where there is a half inch difference between one joist and the joist next to it. That is definitely a problem. I need to figure out if there are a couple of joists that are just badly crowned up and I can maybe grind them down a bit, or possibly just flipping a couple of joists will do the trick. I won't know until I get up there and start sliding some boards around and seeing where the problem is. It came to light as I started putting in the blocking between joists. You could really see how badly the blocking lined up in a few places. Oh well, another set back, and another learning experience. Not sure how much more learning I can handle. *GRIN* Friday was a killer day as we had to haul, quite literally, a ton of lumber up the four flights of stairs to the courtyard. We purchased all the deck boards, plus the rails for the railing, a couple of extra 2X10 boards for the blocking, and an odd 2X8 for the center span where all the deck boards will meet. We must have made 25 trips up and down the stairs. I rigged up a couple of slings from flat webbing that we could drape over our shoulder and load up each side with lumber. Then the two of us would lift it and walk the load up the stairs. It saved wear and tare on the hands and forearms but was a killer on the back and shoulders. anyway, not sure how much of a set-back this will be, but the deck project continues. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: HYPERLINK mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu[EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Dan, before you rip those joists out consider if those high spots are not all the way across. a plane or even a belt sander with a heavy grit? Just thinking of renailing or bolting up those joists which will have your previously nail / bolt holes? Lee -- When you wake up in the morning, Pooh, said Piglet at last, what's the first thing you say to yourself? What's for breakfast? said Pooh. What do you say, Piglet? I say, I wonder what's going to happen exciting today? said Piglet. Pooh nodded thoughtfully. It's the same thing, he said.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Max, The joist hangar nailer I was talking about is a neumatic nailer. I am really loving these neumatic nailers. You can tack things together so easily. There is much less issue with knocking things around as you try to hand hammer in a nail. Very little movement, just pull the trigger and suddenly two things are nailed together. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Thanks Dan. I have looked at them at Lowe's and home depot. I would have to get a compressor too and the total price has kind of put me off. Maybe I should reconsider. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. Max, The joist hangar nailer I was talking about is a neumatic nailer. I am really loving these neumatic nailers. You can tack things together so easily. There is much less issue with knocking things around as you try to hand hammer in a nail. Very little movement, just pull the trigger and suddenly two things are nailed together. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/941 - Release Date: 8/7/2007 4:06 PM
[BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday. The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four. All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and beam joint. Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six, drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by six. But I cut the shim. I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the deal a lot easier. The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is in place. Now I just need a door. They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around the joists. So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it. Well, just a heads up. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
I like the idea you are using maybe some carriage bolts Dan not sure what it is called but when we did the decks we bought a long shank drill bit which in the end had a screw type starter and then the flat cutting blade for the size carriage bolts. do not rush the project for winter. get David over there from Johnstown to help you cut some 2 by 6's for that top rail and router or belt sand the edges. Cut back on the beer for this job and wait until all done to kick back and enjoy a cold one or two. Lee -- A mind is a terrible thing to have leaking out your ears. -- The League of Sadistic Telepaths
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Nicely done Dan... My storage loft hasn't even made it out of the beer and drawing stage yet. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 10:49 AM To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday. The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four. All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and beam joint. Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six, drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by six. But I cut the shim. I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the deal a lot easier. The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is in place. Now I just need a door. They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around the joists. So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it. Well, just a heads up. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081 To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws- users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach Infowest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 114209318) is spam: Spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=114209318m=c5ac 70a2ccf1c=s Not spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=114209318m=c5ac 70a2ccf1c=n Forget vote: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=114209318m=c5ac 70a2ccf1c=f -- END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Say Dan, Did you buy the nailer from a local store? Seems to me there wasn't enough time to get it off the Web. How did the price compare? Your brother is a lucky fellow! While I don't have any immediate use for that nailer I would love to own one. My wife doesn't have the faintest idea why I have those urges (and a couple of others either). Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday. The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four. All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and beam joint. Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six, drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by six. But I cut the shim. I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the deal a lot easier. The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is in place. Now I just need a door. They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around the joists. So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it. Well, just a heads up. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
Dale, I got the joist nailer from Lowes. It was about 40 bucks cheaper at Lowes than house of tools. $219 U.S. at Lowes. I would love to hang onto this tool, but I will only have limited use for it. Tommy can get more use out of it and I can always borrow it back from him at any time. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.
What is the power source for this nailer? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:13 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. Say Dan, Did you buy the nailer from a local store? Seems to me there wasn't enough time to get it off the Web. How did the price compare? Your brother is a lucky fellow! While I don't have any immediate use for that nailer I would love to own one. My wife doesn't have the faintest idea why I have those urges (and a couple of others either). Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update. I have been struggling with a summer cold for the last few days, but still managed to get some progress on the deck on Saturday. The main support beam is now aloft, resting in notches atop four posts. Total length of the beam is 205 inches. I didn't want to have to purchase and transport 18 foot lengths of 2X10 so I built up the beam in four over-lapping pieces. The splits landing at the middle of the notches on posts 2 and 3. IE, I have a 2X10 that goes from post 1 to the middle of post three, and a piece that goes from the middle of post three to the end of post four. Then a piece that goes from post 1 to the middle of post 2, and a piece that goes from there to the end of post four. All pieces were laid crown up and then a mess O nailing tied them together. Since everything was crown up, the beam doesn't sit down into the notches on posts 2 and 3. I ran a single bolt through posts 1 and 4, and through the beam. This will keep the beam on top of the posts but will allow the beam to sag into place as I weight it up with the rest of the joists and framing. Then I will Run three bolts through each post and beam joint. Post five, which is out at the end of the ledger board which sticks out beyond the back of the house by about 3.5 feet, is none too perfect. It got cut short by an inch. I can go out and purchase a new six by six, drag it up all the stairs, cut it, notch it, blah blah blah. Or, I could cut a one inch thick shim to put in the notch that the end of the ledger will sit on. I know what the right thing to do is, and if this had been one of the four main supporting posts, I would have gotten a new six by six. But I cut the shim. I also purchased that Bostitch MCN 150 that Dale taunted me with. I've promised it to my brother-in-law when I am done with it. I haven't tried it out yet, but it looks very usable. You load it with 1.5 inch nails that come in an angled strip, held together by paper. The points of the first three nails are exposed and the tip of the first one is exposed quite a bit, so you can actually fit the point of the nail into the hole in the joist hangar and then shoot. It's going to make that part of the deal a lot easier. The guys doing all the brick work have ripped out all the bricks below the dining room window and relayed the bottom course for me. The doorway is in place. Now I just need a door. They had left there scaffolding there which came in handy at times, but I had to remove the top section because I would have had to thread the joists through the scaffolding and then disassemble the scaffolding around the joists. So, the base structure, posts, beam, and ledger are done. Next weekend I am pretty sure I will get the joists and blocking in place. Possibly even the railing supports. Then I have to go purchase and lug up, the deck boards. Then hopefully I can take a few days off work here and there and do that part. I haven't settled on a railing design yet. Like everything I do, the design I came up with in my head is rather difficult to pull off. I will probably end up going with a simpler design just to get it done so I can use the damn deck before it snows on it. Well, just a heads up. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following
