[Cameramakers] !KV!

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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread ducque

I measured the dark slides on one Fidelity holder and also one Lisco holder
last night.

They are both between 0.0325 and 0.330.  So one should be safe using
commercial 1/32 sheet.  The second problem, of course, will be to get it
cleanly cut to shape...

I would suggest that a paint or epoxy type coating would be a difficult
idea -- any such coating will be at least few thou thick and will make the
resulting slide far too thick to work smoothly.

Someone asked about a source for cold-anodizing chemistry: It's made by
Birchwood-Casey and is called Aluminum Black.  It is available from Fargo at
www.micro-tools.com, and also from some of the major industrial tool
companies, such as www.reidtool.com.  

Other versions of the product are also available for ferrous metals and brass.

Don Feinberg
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati



 John Cremati wrote: I have my doubts that these 
thicknesses will work in a 20x24 inch format.. If a thin aluminum 
sheet is used in the mammoth sizes it will have to be made 
of highly tempered aluminum alloy and very 
ridged.. In the book "Primitive Photography " A guide to making 
Cameras , Lenses and Calotypes, they specify 1/8 inch thick luan as dark 
slide material for just a 8x10 format..
 Is there anyone on the list that has 
experience in such large formats as the 20x24 ? - Original Message 
- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 9:52 AM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] 
Journey to the dark slideI measured the dark 
slides on one Fidelity holder and also one Lisco holder  
last night.   They are both between 0.0325 and 
0.330. So one should be safe using  commercial 1/32" 
sheet. The second problem, of course, will be to get it  
cleanly cut to shape...   I would suggest that a "paint" 
or "epoxy" type coating would be a difficult  idea -- any 
such coating will be at least few thou thick and will make the  
resulting slide far too thick to work smoothly.   
Someone asked about a source for cold-anodizing chemistry: It's made by 
 Birchwood-Casey and is called "Aluminum Black". It is available 
from Fargo at  www.micro-tools.com, and also from some of 
the major industrial tool  companies, such as www.reidtool.com.   
Other versions of the product are also available for ferrous metals and 
brass.   Don Feinberg  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 



Re: [Cameramakers] message from Nettles. KV! etc.

2002-09-27 Thread Cedric Malitte

Nope no virus attached in the message.

On Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:21:50 -0700, Gene Johnson wrote:
I could not make out this message, but there was  something in it
about a worm.  Did anyone's virus protection program go  off?

Gene



-- 
Cedric Malitte, [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 27/09/2002




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Re: [Cameramakers] message from Nettles. KV! etc.

2002-09-27 Thread Gene Johnson

Thanks

Gene
- Original Message - 
From: Cedric Malitte [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] message from Nettles. KV! etc.


 Nope no virus attached in the message.
 
 On Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:21:50 -0700, Gene Johnson wrote:
 I could not make out this message, but there was  something in it
 about a worm.  Did anyone's virus protection program go  off?
 
 Gene
 
 
 
 -- 
 Cedric Malitte, [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 27/09/2002
 
 
 
 
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[Cameramakers] SuperSized Darkslides

2002-09-27 Thread William Nettles

Darkslide material is part of the reason I would construct a non-standard
film holder and matching ground glass. If you could have thicker (deeper?)
holders than your darkslide material could be thicker. Even sealed masonite
would work. It would also take more bumping without marring the film surface
than would something thin.

A thicker slide of course raises the light trap question. Make the light
trap longer and make the darkslide non-removable so you never have toworry
about the gap.

Formica's other big problem is it is brittle. But then so are some of my
circa 1980 4x5  8x10 commercially made darkslides.

Also to save on anodizing the aluminum, I often use flat black high heat
paint. It dries quick, its thin, its matte black and you can quickly repair
any scratches with another spray.

Will

---William Nettles 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Nettles Photo / Imaging Site  http://www.wgn.net/~nettles
 
 Formica(TM) and other similar products is compressed paper with melamine
 plastic. It is useful for some camera parts where a slight warp isn't a
 problem A 24 in sq. darkslide would be very risky. I laminated wood veneer
 to formica and found that their expansion was too different and the veneer
 cracked. I believe conventional darkslides use a cloth/bakelite material.
 I've seen it in the Small Parts cat. but no thinner than 1/8 in. It ain't
 cheap. There was a posting a couple years ago on this list about anodizing
 aluminum. I wonder if that is a relatively cheap way to go? Black anodized
 aluminum would be very nice.

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[Cameramakers] Box Pan Brake

2002-09-27 Thread William Nettles

While constructing some light reflectors  several months ago I had a
hankering for a box and pan brake--but couldn't find one for less than
$1000. 

I was at a place called Harbor Tools, I think its a chain, they had a brake,
shear combo for about $300. Chinese made nothing you would add to your NASA
shop, but it was heavyu duty and looked like it would do the trick for a
camera bodger who only occasionally risks sheet metal cuts.

---William Nettles 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Nettles Photo / Imaging Site  http://www.wgn.net/~nettles

Find out what's happening in Echo Park:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 00:37:12 -0600
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #494 - 15 msgs
 
 2) You really will need something like a brake or a horizontal shear to get
 the thin sheet metal cut with real accuracy and smoothness.  You'll need to do
 that, as machining a thin sheet-metal edge is not so easy.

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Re: [Cameramakers] message from Nettles. KV! etc.

2002-09-27 Thread Matt Considine

Yup, mine went off and isolated the Klez worm.
Matt

 Nope no virus attached in the message.
 
 On Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:21:50 -0700, Gene Johnson wrote:
 I could not make out this message, but there was  something in it
 about a worm.  Did anyone's virus protection program go  off?


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[Cameramakers] Journey to the Dark Slide 20x24

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati



Hi William,  I agree with 
you... I think just making your own holders and non standard back is 
the way to go ..Then design the back to the holder...
The thicker holder has a big advantage of being 
more durable but the big disadvantage is the possibility of a light 
leak...
I plan to use a dual light stop made from spring 
bronze or spring stainless steel weather stripping.. It is a V shaped strip that 
is very cheap available at McMaster Carr..Unfortunately it is 1 inch in 
width but on 20x24 holders, what's another couple of inches... . 
 I had taken apart a graplex holder 
and found they use sort of a bronze spring "v" strip with 
fingers cut about every 1/8 inch. The assemble is then covered 
in a felt cloth..With the bronze V weather stripping these fingers could be 
easily cut on a fine toothed table saw with a simple 
jig.. 
 As another idea how about making 
the holders and back 24x24 inches so that the film could be 
placed in any position with out having to position the camera on its side... 
I do not know how this could be accomplished yet but it is just a idea... 
I plan on making the ground glass back with out a spring 
system and the ground glass removed then holder will just lock into 
the back in its place . I think this will simplify things and prevent any 
possible light leaks while trying to maneuver such a large dark slide and heavy 
holder.. This is the site for Spring Metal weather 
stripping... ... I plan to cover it with some sort ofpolyester felt 
...Any Comments on using this material?Look up number: 
1115a2
http://www.mcmaster.com/


John 
Cremati--William 
Nettles wrote: Darkslide material is part of the reason 
I would construct a non-standardfilm holder and matching ground glass. If 
you could have thicker (deeper?)holders than your darkslide material could 
be thicker. Even sealed masonitewould work. It would also take more bumping 
without marring the film surfacethan would something thin.A thicker 
slide of course raises the light trap question. Make the lighttrap longer 
and make the darkslide non-removable so you never have toworryabout the 
gap.Formica's other big problem is it is brittle. But then so are some 
of mycirca 1980 4x5  8x10 commercially made darkslides.Also to 
save on anodizing the aluminum, I often use flat black high heatpaint. It 
dries quick, its thin, its matte black and you can quickly repairany 
scratches with another spray.Will---William Nettles 



[Cameramakers] question and apologies for virus

2002-09-27 Thread Uptown Gallery

Hello:

I have been fighting with upgrading my AV software and got bit by an
address-book virus today or yesterday - and I sure heard about it from
everyone else's AV software that was working. I must have gotten 50
rejection messages!

It was one of those Klez.H variations and it infected some weird things like
my CD-R software (which was deleted and now has to be reinstalled).

And my question -

I bought (eBay - haven't received yet) an Ilex Process Paragon lens with
some sort of motorized sliding scaling device (copy ratio I presume) 15 f/9
lens. This would be 381 mm..not quite 11 x 14 diagonal...maybe 10 x 12.

1) I am going on the assumption that process lenses make good enlarger
lenses

2) What happens if 'too long' a lens is used for smaller format, say 8x10 or
5x7 negs...does it just mean enlarger starts out with a larger than 'normal'
enlargment ratio? I know what happens from a camera point of view, but don't
know what happens if I plan on using one enlarger lens for a variety of
formats (for budget reasons).

3) Is this a good, excellent or barely decent lens for this application (and
maybe a convertible camera/enlarger kluge)?

Thanks
.
Murray






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[Cameramakers] Ilex Process Paragon

2002-09-27 Thread Uptown Gallery

http://www.uptowngallery.org/ilex1.jpg
http://www.uptowngallery.org/ilex2.jpg

If anyone can identify what the mechanism did, it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Murray

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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread Alan Zinn

At 02:33 PM 9/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:

 John Cremati wrote:
 I  have my doubts that these thicknesses will work in a 20x24 inch format..
 If a thin  aluminum sheet is used  in the mammoth sizes it will have to be
 made of  highly tempered  aluminum  alloy and  very ridged..  In the book
 Primitive Photography  A guide to making Cameras , Lenses and Calotypes,
 they specify 1/8 inch thick luan as dark slide material for just a 8x10
 format..
   Is there anyone on the list that has experience in such large
formats as the 20x24 ?

Guys,
RE the relative hugeness of 24 in. sq. film, I now believe thinking in terms
of conventional dark slide materialis is probably wrong. Using luan may be a
very good idea. Also think about black foam core. It is terrific for
experimental camera bodies.  A stack of large film holders would weigh quite
a bit. Also There should be a container that will hold them flat - like a an
old wood tennis racket clamp. 

AZ
Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
http://www.panoramacamera.us
 or
keyword.com lookaround


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Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide

2002-09-27 Thread John Cremati

 Hi Alan,

 I think your right about the possibility of  wood warpage on such large
holders... I intend to try to make them out of alllnneeyyummm... You can
epoxy aluminum together with rivets... You can also silver solder it..  I
have a tig welder so I may risk the chance  of  heat warpage and try to weld
it in key stress areas
If I was looking at this material called  Sintra with out knowing the
name of it , I would call it black foam core... We are probably talking
about the same thing It is actually a expanded PVC product and is
reasonably stiff  ( not as stiff as I would like though for 1/8 inch
thick..) and extremely light weight.. It seems pretty durable as wellI
am going to get a 20x24 x 1/8 piece this weekend and give it a light fast
test in the sun with some film underneath The best part about it is it
is cheap I think a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet is about $35 . If I am
layering 1/8 x 1 1/2   aluminum strips to form the framework for the dark
slide the edges of the black foam core  are easily sanded to fit.
John Cremati.
- Original Message -
From: Alan Zinn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide


 At 02:33 PM 9/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:
 
  John Cremati wrote:
  I  have my doubts that these thicknesses will work in a 20x24 inch
format..
  If a thin  aluminum sheet is used  in the mammoth sizes it will have to
be
  made of  highly tempered  aluminum  alloy and  very ridged..  In the
book
  Primitive Photography  A guide to making Cameras , Lenses and
Calotypes,
  they specify 1/8 inch thick luan as dark slide material for just a 8x10
  format..
Is there anyone on the list that has experience in such large
 formats as the 20x24 ?

 Guys,
 RE the relative hugeness of 24 in. sq. film, I now believe thinking in
terms
 of conventional dark slide materialis is probably wrong. Using luan may be
a
 very good idea. Also think about black foam core. It is terrific for
 experimental camera bodies.  A stack of large film holders would weigh
quite
 a bit. Also There should be a container that will hold them flat - like a
an
 old wood tennis racket clamp.

 AZ
 Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
 http://www.panoramacamera.us
  or
 keyword.com lookaround


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