Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
+1Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics
Mike, I don't know what wind condition you have in SD, but I would say 135. This is what I have on my furler and, if the shape is ok, should be good up to 20 kn. My #2 is very old and baggy and also give me a lot of weather helm. I have a racing Kevlar 135 that is good up to 25 kn. 150 is a pain to tack in light wind and is only good under 10 kn. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Mike Flannery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 19h41 Objet : Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics I recently purchased a 38-3. Now need to replace headsail. Could use some input on 110 vs 135 vs 150 use. I'm replacing a135 which rounded us up or resulted in heavy weather helm with small crew. I also singlehand a lot so I'm trying to figure out what workd best for me San Diego sailing. Appreciate any info. Mike Flannery602-849-3396 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 -- *De :* Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *À :* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Envoyé le :* mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 *Objet :* Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015[image: Image insérée] https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65#[image: Image insérée] https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso# Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Lake Pontchatrain
Dennis C., I know this is off CC subject, but am considering moving Beemer down your way. Would appreciate all the good info you can give me on the clubs and marinas on the north side. You can email me @ rcaugh...@att.net Bob C. Beemer, 29mkII Jackson, MS___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
You might try south Shoure Yachts as well. They maintain an inventory of CC parts. Cheers david From: David Paine via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 -- De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!
I had a quick look at some of the anchor dragging apps mentioned here and the “Anchor Alarm” does exactly the same thing as any of the Garmin anchor alarms – sounds an alarm if you move more than X from the current position (at the time of setting the alarm). However, the Drag Queen can do the same, but additionally, you can provide (manually) the initial position. This is not yet what Bill wanted (set a point on the map and draw a circle), but functionally, provides the same result (with a bit more complicated user interface). A warning, though: the Drag Queen use a lot of GPS cycles (in “high battery usage” mode); this may mean that you better have your smartphone connected to a charger or at least fully charged, before going to sleep. There is no easy way of telling (at least with the tools I have) how long would the battery last. But this depends heavily on the way how the application was written (my experience with tracking apps (recording a track) shows that two apps doing exactly the same (logging waypoints in a 10 s interval) can discharge battery at a very different rate (one lasting 8-10 h, the other just under half of that). Anchor Watch (free with ads or $4) is even more interesting, allowing to set the anchor position by bearing and distance (chain length + water depth) from the current boat position and to set the “drift radius” by sector (longer in some directions and shorter in others). Anyone willing to do the field test? Marek From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 8:36 PM To: 'Tim Goodyear' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 'Burt Stratton' Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging! Tim, There’s an app called “Drag Queen” that does a pretty good job of keeping track of your anchoring location. Set it up when you drop the hook and it will keep track of your distance from the anchor and let you know if you drag. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 12:30 PM To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging! Bill, There is an IOS app, Boat Monitor that does this. It will also send email or SMS alerts (assuming you have one device on board / one with you ashore). I used it a couple of years ago when we were eating ashore and expecting a major wind shift in the anchorage. It helped me relax and enjoy my lunch. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT (Currently looking for a Wednesday night ride in Cartagena, Colombia) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast sheave replacement
Hey Babs, Understand why you want to stay in Charlieville and cannot blame you. The competitive sailing as sailing in general in Savannah has gone the way of the Dodo bird and SH has lost 75% of their dockage since the settlement of the river bottom law suit. the only decent place left to berth a sailing boat is SYC Good luck with the mast sheeve issue. I replaced Honey's when we rebuilt the rig in 2006 and had Champion Marine duplicate the originals but I am sure that you can ask Selden Mast in Charleston if they have a sets that will fit your mast. Take care, fair winds Merry Christmas. Jack Fitzgerald HONEY US12788 CC 39 TM - Savannah, GA On Wed, Dec 3, 2014 at 10:21 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have McLubed the crap out of the mainsail track with very little difference. I ran a McLubed cloth inside the track and lubed each slide and it made a very little difference. (I do this anyway once a year.) so this made me think of the sheaves while I'm replacing wire/rope halyards with all rope. A new track is out of the question, this one should work perfectly well. I think I should just bite the bullet and go aloft to suss it out and check out the other stuff up there as prep for sheave replacement. Darling Jack, the only reason I'd bring FR back to Savh is to see you. ;-). Too much sailing here in Chucktown and my marina here is way cheaper than the old Sail Harbor and MUCH nicer. Barbara H. Fellers On Dec 3, 2014, at 4:08 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest... ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
Is there a web page for Shoure Yachts? Thanks, On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 6:01 AM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You might try south Shoure Yachts as well. They maintain an inventory of CC parts. Cheers david *From:* David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 -- *De :* Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *À :* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Envoyé le :* mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 *Objet :* Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015[image: Image insérée] https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65#[image: Image insérée] https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso# Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
southshoreyachts.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Utinske via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:13 AM To: D.J. Platt; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Is there a web page for Shoure Yachts? Thanks, On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 6:01 AM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You might try south Shoure Yachts as well. They maintain an inventory of CC parts. Cheers david From: David Paine via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 _ De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 tel:%28905%29%20825-0015 https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65 Image insérée https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso Image insérée Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
All, My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics
Hi Mike, I'm not an expert on the 38-3 but you mentioned Heavy weather Helm and not 'Excessive Heel Another (Free) thing you might want to consider is tuning your rig. If you have excessive weather helm it could be an indication that you simply have too much rake on our mast.. A (fairly) simple stays adjustment moving the mast head forward a couple inches might do the trick. As for the 135 vs 150 (especially if you don't have a furler) I'm with Pierre, Unless most of your sailing is in very light winds over longer distances , the incremental benefit of the increased sail area of the 150 is most likely offset by it's propensity to get tangled-up every time you tack.. And that's true when racing too. I was advised against to go 135 vs 155 by some very seasoned racers for the same reasons (+ you get some PHRF points back for the smaller sail) Good luck to you. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia Mike, I don't know what wind condition you have in SD, but I would say 135. This is what I have on my furler and, if the shape is ok, should be good up to 20 kn. My #2 is very old and baggy and also give me a lot of weather helm. I have a racing Kevlar?135 that is good up to 25 kn. 150 is a pain to tack in light wind and is only good under 10 kn. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 De?: Mike Flannery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com ??: CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com Envoy? le : mercredi 3 d?cembre 2014 19h41 Objet?: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics I recently purchased a 38-3.? Now need to replace headsail.? Could use some input on 110 vs 135 vs 150?use. I'm replacing a135? which rounded us up or resulted in?heavy weather helm with small crew. I also singlehand a lot so I'm trying to figure out what workd best for me San Diego sailing.? Appreciate any info. Mike Flannery602-849-3396___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
Hi Joel, I think your idea makes sense. In fact my tank has two fittings and two PVC pipes that reach down to the deep section of a V-birth shaped holding tank. One for deck and one for overboard marcerator pump. No matter what sanitation hose you use, it will permeate smell. Mine were replaced in 2004, and I started getting complaints by 2009. Sanitation is on my list this winter. We live aboard in the summer and the smell is driving my girlfriend crazy, especially if we don’t pump out weekly. I was told through numerous industry folks and liveaboards to replace sanitation hose with PVC. To keep PVC from cracking, use small section of sanitation hose at the ends of each run to absorb vibration. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose All, My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics
I'm not sure what you consider to be heavy weather. On my 35/3 with a 135 I need to shorten sail at above 15 knots true. Otherwise, I heel more and go slower. I reef the main, and it still overpowered furl down the jib. What condition is the main in? If it is baggy and blown out it will have a tendency to make you heel and round up. Be sure to flatten it with the outhaul and cunningham. If you have an adjustable backstay, tension in when the wind picks up. San Diego is generally under 15 knots IIRC. I would go with a 135, but I like to go fast. If all you want is a liesurely cruise, you might consider a smaller sail. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 9:56 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Mike, I'm not an expert on the 38-3 but you mentioned Heavy weather Helm and not 'Excessive Heel Another (Free) thing you might want to consider is tuning your rig. If you have excessive weather helm it could be an indication that you simply have too much rake on our mast.. A (fairly) simple stays adjustment moving the mast head forward a couple inches might do the trick. As for the 135 vs 150 (especially if you don't have a furler) I'm with Pierre, Unless most of your sailing is in very light winds over longer distances , the incremental benefit of the increased sail area of the 150 is most likely offset by it's propensity to get tangled-up every time you tack.. And that's true when racing too. I was advised against to go 135 vs 155 by some very seasoned racers for the same reasons (+ you get some PHRF points back for the smaller sail) Good luck to you. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia Mike, I don't know what wind condition you have in SD, but I would say 135. This is what I have on my furler and, if the shape is ok, should be good up to 20 kn. My #2 is very old and baggy and also give me a lot of weather helm. I have a racing Kevlar?135 that is good up to 25 kn. 150 is a pain to tack in light wind and is only good under 10 kn. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 De?: Mike Flannery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com ??: CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com Envoy? le : mercredi 3 d?cembre 2014 19h41 Objet?: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics I recently purchased a 38-3.? Now need to replace headsail.? Could use some input on 110 vs 135 vs 150?use. I'm replacing a135? which rounded us up or resulted in?heavy weather helm with small crew. I also singlehand a lot so I'm trying to figure out what workd best for me San Diego sailing.? Appreciate any info. Mike Flannery602-849-3396 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast sheave replacement
A simple TLC will go a long way...last spring, with mast down (boat new to me), we took out all of the sheaves, cleaned and very lightly sanded I the inside and put them back without anything further; the main hoist works better, meaning easier, than any main I have ever had, that's on a 45 ft hoist main! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596, LBD; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
Here's another one on heavier winds: Reef 1st or Furl 1st? Up 'till a few weeks back, when the boat gets over-powered I typically furl long before I reef because it's so much easier + it's quick to un-furl when going on a reach. But then I watched the in port race with the Volvo 'round the world thing where the ladies team reefed instead of going for the smaller gib and seemed to gain speed from that tactic. When I tried reefing before it seemed to remove too much power ( In 18-22 breeze) but I was not looking at the boat speed closely. Has anybody done some tests on reefing vs furling in terms of outright speed on a close haul for a given wind speed? -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
I reef before I furl. Cheers, Paul Orange Crush CC27MkII, Sidney, BC. On 14-12-04 07:34 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote: Here's another one on heavier winds: Reef 1st or Furl 1st? Up 'till a few weeks back, when the boat gets over-powered I typically furl long before I reef because it's so much easier + it's quick to un-furl when going on a reach. But then I watched the in port race with the Volvo 'round the world thing where the ladies team reefed instead of going for the smaller gib and seemed to gain speed from that tactic. When I tried reefing before it seemed to remove too much power ( In 18-22 breeze) but I was not looking at the boat speed closely. Has anybody done some tests on reefing vs furling in terms of outright speed on a close haul for a given wind speed? -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
Reef first. A reefed headsail upwind is a poor second choice to a properly sized headsail. The shape is just not here. In addition, it puts strains and stresses on points of the sail that may not have been designed for them. I find that a 110 moves the boat fast enough for most conditions and we can handle 30+ with a double reef or no mainsail quite comfortably. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2014 07:46:26 -0800 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ? From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com I reef before I furl. Cheers, Paul Orange Crush CC27MkII, Sidney, BC. On 14-12-04 07:34 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote: Here's another one on heavier winds: Reef 1st or Furl 1st? Up 'till a few weeks back, when the boat gets over-powered I typically furl long before I reef because it's so much easier + it's quick to un-furl when going on a reach. But then I watched the in port race with the Volvo 'round the world thing where the ladies team reefed instead of going for the smaller gib and seemed to gain speed from that tactic. When I tried reefing before it seemed to remove too much power ( In 18-22 breeze) but I was not looking at the boat speed closely. Has anybody done some tests on reefing vs furling in terms of outright speed on a close haul for a given wind speed? -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
Jean-Francois, I have not speed tested it, but the helm is nicely balanced with a reef and full 135. I have a cruising jib from Rolly Tasker with a foam luff, so I could furl it, and will do so if the wind comes up suddenly and I want everyone in the cockpit. The racing 155 has no foam luff and is a laminate, so I prefer not to furl. When single handed, if I am not concerned about pointing I will go jib only. Of course, you have a newer design, so your boat may handle differently. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Not a universal truth. I have a genoa specifically designed and built to be furled from 150% to 135% and 100%. It has tape marks along the foot for those points. The sailmaker, Clarke Bassett, who designed and built this sail, made from graduated weights of sailcloth, also has designed and built sails for America's Cup (1987 Stars Stripes) among other notables. The sail maintains a great shape at all points of furling, and because the forward part of the sail is made from the lightest weight cloth, the sausage is very thin and tight. He has patents on it. Bill Bina On 12/4/2014 10:58 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: I’ve been told by sailmakers that partially furling your sail is very, very bad for the sail, especially on racing sails where the stress loads are designed to be in particular places. That being said, when I was in a race and was suddenly faced with a 40-mph storm, furling was the easiest and fastest way to reduce sail. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
Cruising mode, I will very likely roll in the genoa first. Reefing the main is a better bet to go faster. Funny story – I had a non-furling #3 genoa and full main up. We are crashing through a steep chop going to windward at 7.6 knots with the rail frequently under water. I was having a fun time steering, but the helm was heavy. My wife complained from below being heeled over that far was disturbing her nap time – argh ☹ So I threw in a double reef in the main. The helm got much easier, the motion was easier, we were only heeled about 20-25 degrees, and the boat speed was 7.8 ☺ Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 11:19 AM To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ? Jean-Francois, I have not speed tested it, but the helm is nicely balanced with a reef and full 135. I have a cruising jib from Rolly Tasker with a foam luff, so I could furl it, and will do so if the wind comes up suddenly and I want everyone in the cockpit. The racing 155 has no foam luff and is a laminate, so I prefer not to furl. When single handed, if I am not concerned about pointing I will go jib only. Of course, you have a newer design, so your boat may handle differently. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Not a universal truth. I have a genoa specifically designed and built to be furled from 150% to 135% and 100%. It has tape marks along the foot for those points. The sailmaker, Clarke Bassett, who designed and built this sail, made from graduated weights of sailcloth, also has designed and built sails for America's Cup (1987 Stars Stripes) among other notables. The sail maintains a great shape at all points of furling, and because the forward part of the sail is made from the lightest weight cloth, the sausage is very thin and tight. He has patents on it. Bill Bina On 12/4/2014 10:58 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: I’ve been told by sailmakers that partially furling your sail is very, very bad for the sail, especially on racing sails where the stress loads are designed to be in particular places. That being said, when I was in a race and was suddenly faced with a 40-mph storm, furling was the easiest and fastest way to reduce sail. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Loghttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?
My 153 genoa still works good upwind when furled to a few inches above the bow pulpit. It is a Spike Boston, Doyle square weave polyester sail, with a piece of line sewn in to flatten the sail when partially furled. I discovered by accident that this has the added advantage of allowing to boat to self steer on a close reach in 20 knots. Of course the conditions and the trim have to be just right, but I really had no choice but to give it a try since auto had lost his mind and I was single handing a 48 mile race. We, the boat and I, won. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII On the hard in Ontario - Original Message - From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 10:34 AM Subject: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ? Here's another one on heavier winds: Reef 1st or Furl 1st? Up 'till a few weeks back, when the boat gets over-powered I typically furl long before I reef because it's so much easier + it's quick to un-furl when going on a reach. But then I watched the in port race with the Volvo 'round the world thing where the ladies team reefed instead of going for the smaller gib and seemed to gain speed from that tactic. When I tried reefing before it seemed to remove too much power ( In 18-22 breeze) but I was not looking at the boat speed closely. Has anybody done some tests on reefing vs furling in terms of outright speed on a close haul for a given wind speed? -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
Hi Joel Did my hose last year. The last one, which was actually an exhaust hose, lasted 32 years. I suspect the new one, proper sanitation hose which appears to be smell resistant, will out last me. I would not waste a lot of time on PVC unless it is really easy to do. My two cents worth. david From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:58 AM To: 'Joel Aronson' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose Hi Joel, I think your idea makes sense. In fact my tank has two fittings and two PVC pipes that reach down to the deep section of a V-birth shaped holding tank. One for deck and one for overboard marcerator pump. No matter what sanitation hose you use, it will permeate smell. Mine were replaced in 2004, and I started getting complaints by 2009. Sanitation is on my list this winter. We live aboard in the summer and the smell is driving my girlfriend crazy, especially if we don’t pump out weekly. I was told through numerous industry folks and liveaboards to replace sanitation hose with PVC. To keep PVC from cracking, use small section of sanitation hose at the ends of each run to absorb vibration. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose All, My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
Joel, That is exactly what I did on mine and it has worked very well. I didn’t use any hose on the lower end, just from the top of the pvc to the deck fitting. I would suggest that you keep the pvc section as short as possible to reduce the torque force on the elbow. James S/V Delaney 1976 CC 38 Oriental, NC From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose All, My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
I had to get VERY creative to solve my pump out hose problems. My holding tank follows the chine of the hull so a straight piece of hard pipe perpendicular to the top of the tank was only going to go in about a foot before stopping on the outboard side of the tank. The tank fitting wasn't a thru-hull with threads on both sides so whatever threaded in the top also had to extend through to the bottom. The sanitation hose was so stiff that getting it off was impossible without removing the deck fitting. In the end I replaced almost everything and ended up with a continuous sequence of parts that was fully assembled prior to installation. Deck fitting - 2 sanitation hose (exactly the right length to reach the tank ~2.5ft long) - pvc nipple - pvc threaded adapter that threaded into the top of the tank - pvc sink drain tail that fit very tight inside threaded section and extended ~12 out the threaded adapter - another piece of flex sanitation hose that would reach the bottom of the tank. I had to use a clamptite (wire tie) on all of my hose connections so that they would fit through the holes in the deck and tank. Installation was a dance between someone on the deck and someone screwing the threaded fitting into the tank. Oh yeah, don't forget this was the only opportunity we had to use 4200 under the deck fitting. We also found some core rot when we removed the deck fitting. If you find the same thing I have some pretty good solutions you might like. Let me know. I don't think you'll be able to use solid pipe between the tank and deck. I don't know what advantage it would be to use solid pipe inside the tank. How would you seal the pipe as it goes through the tank? Best solution for smelly tanks is to keep them empty. Good luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 4, 2014 9:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: All, My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st
Besides looking at boat speed, you have to also look at wind angle, or in other words VMG. I was overpowered so often with a 155, that I stopped using it and switched to a 135. I heeled less, and gained five degrees wind angle and six seconds of handicap. This year I stopped using the 135, and switched to a 105. I gained an additional five degrees, and I'm waiting to see how much my handicap will change. With the 105, I can sheet inside the shrouds, and quite often I beat faster rated boats to the weather mark. An additional benefit, is my main doesn't get back winded as it did with the 155. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st
On the Chesapeake there is one rating unless you exceed 155. Joel On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 12:33 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Besides looking at boat speed, you have to also look at wind angle, or in other words VMG. I was overpowered so often with a 155, that I stopped using it and switched to a 135. I heeled less, and gained five degrees wind angle and six seconds of handicap. This year I stopped using the 135, and switched to a 105. I gained an additional five degrees, and I'm waiting to see how much my handicap will change. With the 105, I can sheet inside the shrouds, and quite often I beat faster rated boats to the weather mark. An additional benefit, is my main doesn't get back winded as it did with the 155. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List boat heating - was LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?
the raw water cooled engine can be modified to use coolant in the engine and an
external exchanger. Mine is setup that way from the factory (at least looks
that way).
Leslie.
Phoenix CC32
On Wed, 12/3/14, Graham Collins via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat heating - was LF38 engine access - how bad is it
really?
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2014, 3:13 PM
Hi Mike
It is very do-able. Do you have the engine heating a
hot water
tank? Same process essentially. Hot water/glycol
comes out of
the engine, run it thru a Y valve. If set one way
the flow is
through the heat exchanger as usual, but if set the
other way the
hot stuff goes to a heater in the cabin and then into
the heat
exchanger on the engine. You would need:
1) radiator, such
as this one
2) enough hose to connect it all up.
3) a Y valve to select cabin heat or no cabin heat.
4) a T (for the return)
I've got a hydronic heating system on my boat with
two radiators,
my espar heats these and the water tank - but the idea
is the
same. I couldn't go the engine heated route
because mine is a 3GM
= raw water cooled.
If you would like to have a look at my setup we can
arrange it.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11
On 2014-12-03 11:12 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
wrote:
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Mike;
Josh
is correct in saying the “F” in the model
number of older
Yanmar engines designated freshwater cooled, and
the use of
a heat exchanger on the engine. On a freshwater
cooled
engine the water/glycol coolant mix in the block
is
circulated through a heat exchanger – which is
analogous to
the radiator in your car. Raw water, drawn from
outside of
the boat, is circulated through the heat
exchanger and
removes the heat from the water/glycol coolant
before being
used to cool the exhaust gasses and being
discharged
overboard. In your car, the relatively cold air
passing
through the radiator takes the heat away from
the
water/glycol coolant in the engine.
If
there is no “F” in the model number of an
older Yanmar, it
is a raw water cooled engine. Seawater is drawn
from
outside, pumped through the engine to cool it,
then mixed
with the exhaust to cool that, and then
discharged
overboard.
Now
I said “older” Yanmar engines because every
model in their
current product line seems to come with a heat
exchanger and
fresh water cooling.
In
response to another comment made about the
“GM”, “HM”, “QM”
model designation (the current engines are
“YM”) that is a
model series designation. It almost looks like
it relates to
the generation of emission controls present on
the engine. I
notice that the YM series is designed to meet
the diesel
emission standards that started to become
effective in 2011
in the US.
So
“2” or “3” is the number of cylinders.
“GM” etc. is the
engine series. “30” is the nominal
horsepower. And “F” is
freshwater cooled. (On the 4
Stus-List C-Map pricing is nuts
Some of you may remember I got a S-H plotter a little while ago. It came with no maps, so I have been searching FleaBay for used C-Map cartridges. I have found out three things: 1. It costs about $90 to update an outdated cartridge. 2. I can buy a new C-Map Max cartridge for Block Island to Norfolk for $120. 3. Used FleaBay stuff is rarely under $100. Anyone else think it is odd there is a market for old C-Maps that will end up costing as much or more than a NEW one once they are updated Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
I have a 38 MK II and the past owner let the wire on the main halyard rub on the trailing edge of the spreader. It looked just like a crack but it was just the material that had worn away. We had a piece welded on the back of the worn out area. It looks a little weird so we just don't look at it. Problem solved. Gary KolcLiberty Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: southshoreyachts.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Utinske via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:13 AM To: D.J. Platt; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Is there a web page for Shoure Yachts? Thanks, On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 6:01 AM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You might try south Shoure Yachts as well. They maintain an inventory of CC parts. Cheers david From: David Paine via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 _ De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 tel:%28905%29%20825-0015 https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65 Image insérée https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso Image insérée Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C-Map pricing is nuts
I call it the Sears philosophy of marketing. Sears will sell you a nice reasonably priced table saw. Then you go to buy accessories for it. You get raped. Lots of marketers do it. It also keeps the price of add ons, updates, etc. high. I especially wonder about the optional cards. Many GPS units come with a base map. You have to buy the cartridge with all the info on marinas, fuel docks, etc. Why don't the facilities subsidize the optional cards. Maybe they do but it doesn't seem to get passed on to boat owners. My opinion the best add on is a smart phone with Google. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Dec 4, 2014 1:40 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Some of you may remember I got a S-H plotter a little while ago. It came with no maps, so I have been searching FleaBay for used C-Map cartridges. I have found out three things: 1. It costs about $90 to update an outdated cartridge. 2. I can buy a new C-Map Max cartridge for Block Island to Norfolk for $120. 3. Used FleaBay stuff is rarely under $100. Anyone else think it is odd there is a market for old C-Maps that will end up costing as much or more than a NEW one once they are updated Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?
The past owner of our boat would clip the main halyard to the base of the mast and let it flop around and that is how our spreader was damaged by the wire. Gary ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a 38 MK II and the past owner let the wire on the main halyard rub on the trailing edge of the spreader. It looked just like a crack but it was just the material that had worn away. We had a piece welded on the back of the worn out area. It looks a little weird so we just don't look at it. Problem solved. Gary KolcLiberty Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: southshoreyachts.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Utinske via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:13 AM To: D.J. Platt; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Is there a web page for Shoure Yachts? Thanks, On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 6:01 AM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You might try south Shoure Yachts as well. They maintain an inventory of CC parts. Cheers david From: David Paine via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try! Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is insane, I'll try to fix it. For the record (and because someone asked), the crack is really more like a split along the leading edge. Welding or reinforcement might be possible. Thanks all, David On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: +1 Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his CC32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 _ De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 tel:%28905%29%20825-0015 https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65 Image insérée https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso Image insérée Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Subject: Masthead sheaves replacement
Apparently Harken does recommend McLube OneDrop Ball Bearing Conditioner for use in their ball bearing travelers and battcars: http://www.mclubemarine.com/onedrop/ http://www.mclubemarine.com/quotes.php?c=quotes_flippert=od I imagine a drop in a ball bearing block wouldn't hurt. Harken does recommend rinsing with fresh water frequently and periodically cleaning more thoroughly with a mild detergent: Clean: Keep your equipment clean and free-running by frequently flushing with fresh water. Periodically clean with mild detergent and water solution. Spin sheaves, rotate cams, and roll cars back and forth to distribute soap solution evenly. http://www.harken.com/uploadedFiles/Support/Service/maintenance-lr.pdf Ken H. Ken H. On 3 December 2014 at 18:23, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The main on my boat, 43' hoist was a bear and needed the winch when I first got her. After some time, I found the sheaves in my organizer were frozen and didn't turn. The main halyard ran through them easily until the load came on and then the frozen sheaves made it very hard. Freed them up when I took em apart, cleaned, and lubed. Found the mast base blocks frozen too. Cleaned them with water and lubed w McLube. I use McLube on the track and sail slides when I put the sail on. Usually we raise the sail by hand to the top, no winch, unless it's really windy and only for the last 2 feet. The sail drops more easily too. I'm a big fan of McLube and Boeing T-9. I don't lube the Harken stuff cause they reccommend simply hosing off with fresh water does the job. Sailing is so nice when everything works on the boat. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Wednesday, December 3, 2014 2:39:17 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Subject: Masthead sheaves replacement I had trouble raising the main on Pegathy when I bought her. Bunch of silicon lube on the slides and lower slot and - viola - up she went, no problem. Cheapest fix ever. Dan Sheer Pegathy CC LF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
Joel - Yes! You can see some pics of mine at http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/head/newtnk/newtnk.htm No smells after 11 years of hard use. Also, the smooth Shields hose fittings are worth their weight in gold. Actually, that's about what they cost! The only hoses I've had to deal with go to the macerator pump, which I have rebuilt or replaced about ten times in the last five years. It's really nice to be able to just slide the hose off the fitting. Wal you wrote: My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C-Map pricing is nuts
I suspect most people never update their charts. Joel On Thursday, December 4, 2014, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I call it the Sears philosophy of marketing. Sears will sell you a nice reasonably priced table saw. Then you go to buy accessories for it. You get raped. Lots of marketers do it. It also keeps the price of add ons, updates, etc. high. I especially wonder about the optional cards. Many GPS units come with a base map. You have to buy the cartridge with all the info on marinas, fuel docks, etc. Why don't the facilities subsidize the optional cards. Maybe they do but it doesn't seem to get passed on to boat owners. My opinion the best add on is a smart phone with Google. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Dec 4, 2014 1:40 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Some of you may remember I got a S-H plotter a little while ago. It came with no maps, so I have been searching FleaBay for used C-Map cartridges. I have found out three things: 1. It costs about $90 to update an outdated cartridge. 2. I can buy a new C-Map Max cartridge for Block Island to Norfolk for $120. 3. Used FleaBay stuff is rarely under $100. Anyone else think it is odd there is a market for old C-Maps that will end up costing as much or more than a NEW one once they are updated Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose
Wal thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with Shields fittings. I'll look for them. Joel On Thursday, December 4, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joel - Yes! You can see some pics of mine at http://www.wbryant.com/ StellaBoat/Projects/head/newtnk/newtnk.htm No smells after 11 years of hard use. Also, the smooth Shields hose fittings are worth their weight in gold. Actually, that's about what they cost! The only hoses I've had to deal with go to the macerator pump, which I have rebuilt or replaced about ten times in the last five years. It's really nice to be able to just slide the hose off the fitting. Wal you wrote: My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the deck fitting. Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry? -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
