Re: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

In a word – YES



Did the course with crew and made a weekend of it – learned a whole lot, did 
some great bonding and had a great time



John & Maryann



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar



Has anyone done this?  Is it worthwhile?




--

Joel
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Actually, the tough part is getting enough amps to do the bulk charge
phase. Once you have tapered that down, the last 20% is soaking up low amps
for a long time. A single big bank is more efficient at the bulk charge if
your alternator and regulator are up to it.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 January 2015 at 15:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd, You might consider keeping the house bank broken up with the ability
> to combine.  As the others have said, a deep discharge is bad but getting a
> charge above 80% is more difficult and requires more current on larger
> banks.  Maybe for race nights you could use "House #1" equal to
> 75-100Ahrs.  When you go cruising you could combine them or switch to
> "House #2" and keep #1 as a reserve.
>
> To help answer your question about the echocharge not getting a chance to
> charge the house bank.  I believe the echocharge has a threshold setting
> which dictates when to "switch over".  I am accustomed to seeing the
> alternator directly wired to the battery.  I believe that this is the one
> exception to the ABYC fuse requirement.  It takes almost no time for the
> starting battery to recover its charge so very shortly after engine start
> the echo starts charging the house.
>
> Edd, maybe you or someone else can make an argument for an echocharge vs
> an ACR.  I believe the ACR can provide more current and may be cheaper.
>
> Josh
> On Jan 30, 2015 11:46 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits.
>> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a
>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank.
>>
>> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring
>> diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the
>> alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.
>>
>> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the starter
>> and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.
>>
>> 12 weeks to launch!
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Question: Is it not safer to have House and Starting separate, i.e. not
charging Starting battery through the House bank. By "safer" what I mean is
that if the house bank fails, would this not preclude a charge to the
starting battery?

On Fri Jan 30 2015 at 4:05:39 PM jtsails via CnC-List 
wrote:

>   Edd,
> you will need to size the alternator output wire according to the max
> potential output of the alternator and the length of the run. You will
> probably gets lots of different answers about fusing that wire, ABYC does
> not require it but many people do put a fuse in there. The problem with
> having a fuse there is that if it blows you will probably fry the diodes in
> the alternator. I did fuse mine with an 80 amp fuse (55 amp alternator) and
> 8 gauge wire. both the wire and fuse are oversized for the job, but I don’t
> want that fuse to ever blow. remember that fuses are used to protect the
> wire and should always be sized to protect the smallest gauge used in the
> circuit.
> James
> “Delaney”
> 1976 C&C 38
> Oriental, NC
>
>  *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 5:34 PM
> *To:* mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
> Graham,
>
> This is the switch I’ll be installing:
> https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8280.jpg
>
> And yes, I’ll be connecting the alternator to the house bank as well, not
> to the starting bank (with an Echo charger between the house and starting —
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--digital-echo-charge-battery-charger--333669
> )
>
> For the group: What size wire should I place between the Alternator and
> the House Bank? Do I need a fuse and, if so, how big?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Graham Collins 
> wrote:
>
>  Here is my schematic (should be small enough to slip thru the
> listserver).
>
> I used the BlueSea charge combiner on my previous boat, this wiring
> diagram is for it.  The current boat is getting the same setup, the only
> difference is likely to be that I connect the alternator to the house bank,
> not the starting bank.
>
> I like the BlueSea switch - one switch does it all.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-01-30 5:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE
> this f-in list!!)
>
> So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not
> understanding it correctly:
>
> As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another bank
> when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for
> 20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if
> 20 minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would
> the starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not
> eventually drain the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the
> engine without combining?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street 
> wrote:
>
>  Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources
> go to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep
> the start battery topped off.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>  On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one
> go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I
> shouldn’t??)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
> 
>
>
>
> --
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Edd,
you will need to size the alternator output wire according to the max potential 
output of the alternator and the length of the run. You will probably gets lots 
of different answers about fusing that wire, ABYC does not require it but many 
people do put a fuse in there. The problem with having a fuse there is that if 
it blows you will probably fry the diodes in the alternator. I did fuse mine 
with an 80 amp fuse (55 amp alternator) and 8 gauge wire. both the wire and 
fuse are oversized for the job, but I don’t want that fuse to ever blow. 
remember that fuses are used to protect the wire and should always be sized to 
protect the smallest gauge used in the circuit.
James
“Delaney”
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 5:34 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

Graham, 

This is the switch I’ll be installing: 
https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8280.jpg 

And yes, I’ll be connecting the alternator to the house bank as well, not to 
the starting bank (with an Echo charger between the house and starting — 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--digital-echo-charge-battery-charger--333669)


For the group: What size wire should I place between the Alternator and the 
House Bank? Do I need a fuse and, if so, how big? 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

  On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Graham Collins  
wrote:

  Here is my schematic (should be small enough to slip thru the listserver).

  I used the BlueSea charge combiner on my previous boat, this wiring diagram 
is for it.  The current boat is getting the same setup, the only difference is 
likely to be that I connect the alternator to the house bank, not the starting 
bank.  

  I like the BlueSea switch - one switch does it all.  

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11On 2015-01-30 5:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Fred, 

Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE this 
f-in list!!)

So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
understanding it correctly:

As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another bank 
when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for 20 
minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if 20 
minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would the 
starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain 
the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without 
combining? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




  On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street  
wrote:

  Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources 
go to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the 
start battery topped off.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

  On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have 
one go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I 
shouldn’t??)



 

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Andy,
By the time I got back from Bermuda even the mirror in the head was covered
in salt!
The redundancy of the joystick and zoom wheel made it an inconvenience, not
a problem.  Several times we used the Rayremote software on the iPad to
avoid crowding the helmsman.
Joel

On Friday, January 30, 2015, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Wifi, Rick.
> How does salt water get on your screens? Mine will be mounted in the
> cockpit so it should never get wet.
> Or are you guys THAT kind of sailor? The kind that sails in splashy
> weather when all prudent mariners are at the bar...
>
> :)
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 4:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I have to agree with Joel about the Raymarine touch screen in a saltwater
>> environment. And, Joel, it isn’t just the plotter on your boat. I’ve had
>> the same experience on two other boats recently, and the electronics guy
>> who does much of the work in my area steered a customer refitting a Pacific
>> Seacraft 37 away from the Raymarine for that reason. On the other hand, I
>> find the touch screen on the Garmin 7series work quite well. I was
>> pleasantly surprised.
>>
>>
>>
>> As far as software, I find the Garmin more intuitive than the Raymarine.
>> But I’ve had more experience with Garmin plotters over the years, so I
>> suppose that’s sort of an Android vs. iOS thing and not a real difference
>> in capabilities.
>>
>>
>>
>> Andy, do you mean WiFi or Bluetooth? The newer Garmin plotters will also
>> interface with a tablet using Bluetooth.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On
>> Behalf Of *Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 12:08 PM
>> *To:* Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
>>
>>
>>
>> I have an E7.  You will find the touch screen on the iPad easier to use
>> than the E7's after a few days of salt spray.  I did not play with the new
>> B&G or Garmin stuff.  The main reason I did not buy the Garmin that was on
>> the market 3 years ago was it was all touch screen.  I like having the
>> joystick.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by
>> pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.
>>
>> I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru.
>> Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I
>> can see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the
>> repeater plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my
>> iPad.
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> C&C 40
>>
>> Peregrine
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one
>> of
>> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose,
>> etc,
>> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
>> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
>> I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
>> features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.
>>
>> Any Comments?
>>
>> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin
>> anymore.
>> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and
>> selling
>> below their "suggested" prices. ?
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> andrewburtonyachtservices
>> 
>> phone  +401 965 5260
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> andrewburtonyachtservices
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
Cn

Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd, You might consider keeping the house bank broken up with the ability
to combine.  As the others have said, a deep discharge is bad but getting a
charge above 80% is more difficult and requires more current on larger
banks.  Maybe for race nights you could use "House #1" equal to
75-100Ahrs.  When you go cruising you could combine them or switch to
"House #2" and keep #1 as a reserve.

To help answer your question about the echocharge not getting a chance to
charge the house bank.  I believe the echocharge has a threshold setting
which dictates when to "switch over".  I am accustomed to seeing the
alternator directly wired to the battery.  I believe that this is the one
exception to the ABYC fuse requirement.  It takes almost no time for the
starting battery to recover its charge so very shortly after engine start
the echo starts charging the house.

Edd, maybe you or someone else can make an argument for an echocharge vs an
ACR.  I believe the ACR can provide more current and may be cheaper.

Josh
On Jan 30, 2015 11:46 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. Specifically,
> I'm looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House switch
> and use an echo charger for the house bank.
>
> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring
> diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the
> alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.
>
> I'm also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the starter
> and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.
>
> 12 weeks to launch!
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

I have a Zeus Touch T8 on Avalanche and I also like it a lot. I also have a 
Triton display and some other devices to get my old B&G Hornet4 data to the N2K 
network. Integration is easy as all devices see each others on the network.
Jim is right, the included charts are very limited, and it is for all the first 
generation of Zeus Touch. I had to get C-Map Max-N for the great lakes. I 
recently find a way to get BSB charts on my Zeus.
Layline and some other feature require a compass. The ZG100 ($200) will do the 
job very well, but is not enough for autopilot or MARPA witch require more 
precision (like the RC42). The ZG100 will also give heel, trim and faster more 
precise GPS data. And for Wifi, a WIFI-1 ($220) or any other router is 
required. The WIFI-1 is a lot easier to install.
I went through the manual of the new Zeus2, and from what I see, the first 
generation Zeus Touch will do almost everything the new Zeus2 does. Zeus2 is 
faster and has the 2 finger zoom feature, and they will add some cloud feature 
to the Zeus2 this spring.
Up to now, I don't regret going with B&G. I even found a good contact at Navico 
for support 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche #54988
C&C38-3 WK, hull #76
  De : Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 À : Bill Coleman ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
; Andrew Burton  
 Envoyé le : vendredi 30 janvier 2015 12h12
 Objet : Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters


   
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 I guess it is all what you are used to, I have a Zeus Touch T7 on Firewater 
and like it very much, though part of the attraction is the full integration 
with my Triton instruments, which makes it like a big instrument display in 
addition to being a chartplotter.  I have not really needed the manual for 
regular use.  
The one thing about the B&G system that is not obvious is the need for some 
additional pieces.  The Zeus T7 at least comes with very limited charts, the T8 
may be better in that regard.  I felt the need to buy charts to even get the 
breakwall in our harbor on the cart.  The other issue is that it really needs 
an external compass transducer to properly function even as a chartplotter.  
There is another optional piece, which I have, to give you iPad control as Andy 
describes below, so it definitely is available.  The bottom line is that the 
price of the T8 alone may not be the true cost to give you the features you 
want.
I think with any of these you need to evaluate it in light of the integration 
opportunities with other instruments and sensors.  If you have relatively 
current Raymarine instruments, they might well talk to the E7.  If you have 
B&G, they might well talk to a Zeus unit.  They aren’t just chartplotters any 
more, they really are designed to be part of a system.  Just my 2 cents.
Regards,
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
Sent from Windows Mail
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd,

I would risk stating the obvious, but if only charging you do is during 
motoring to the start line, your batteries will never get fully charged.

You need either the shore power or some other means (solar).

If you charge only during motoring, you at best end up with 80% charged 
batteries.

Marek


Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Fred,

Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE 
this f-in list!!)

So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
understanding it correctly:

As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another 
bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for 
20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if 20 
minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would the 
starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain 
the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without 
combining?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>
> Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go 
> to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the 
> start battery topped off.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one go 
>> to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I shouldn’t??)
>

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd you ABSOLUTELY need a fuse or breaker on the alternator output; the size of 
the over-current protection will depend on the size of the wire, which will in 
turn depend on the alternator output.

And the over-current protection needs to be within seven inches of where the 
alternator output connects to either the battery or the main DC bus bar.

This is why I suggested in my earlier email for you to get some advice from 
somebody with ABYC experience…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:34 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Graham,
> 
>   This is the switch I’ll be installing: 
> https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8280.jpg 
> 
>   And yes, I’ll be connecting the alternator to the house bank as well, 
> not to the starting bank (with an Echo charger between the house and starting 
> — 
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--digital-echo-charge-battery-charger--333669)
> 
>   For the group: What size wire should I place between the Alternator and 
> the House Bank? Do I need a fuse and, if so, how big? 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Wifi, Rick.
How does salt water get on your screens? Mine will be mounted in the
cockpit so it should never get wet.
Or are you guys THAT kind of sailor? The kind that sails in splashy weather
when all prudent mariners are at the bar...

:)

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 4:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have to agree with Joel about the Raymarine touch screen in a saltwater
> environment. And, Joel, it isn’t just the plotter on your boat. I’ve had
> the same experience on two other boats recently, and the electronics guy
> who does much of the work in my area steered a customer refitting a Pacific
> Seacraft 37 away from the Raymarine for that reason. On the other hand, I
> find the touch screen on the Garmin 7series work quite well. I was
> pleasantly surprised.
>
>
>
> As far as software, I find the Garmin more intuitive than the Raymarine.
> But I’ve had more experience with Garmin plotters over the years, so I
> suppose that’s sort of an Android vs. iOS thing and not a real difference
> in capabilities.
>
>
>
> Andy, do you mean WiFi or Bluetooth? The newer Garmin plotters will also
> interface with a tablet using Bluetooth.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 12:08 PM
> *To:* Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
>
>
>
> I have an E7.  You will find the touch screen on the iPad easier to use
> than the E7's after a few days of salt spray.  I did not play with the new
> B&G or Garmin stuff.  The main reason I did not buy the Garmin that was on
> the market 3 years ago was it was all touch screen.  I like having the
> joystick.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by
> pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.
>
> I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru.
> Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I
> can see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the
> repeater plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my
> iPad.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one
> of
> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose,
> etc,
> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
> I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
> features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.
>
> Any Comments?
>
> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin
> anymore.
> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
> below their "suggested" prices. ?
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> --
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Graham,

This is the switch I’ll be installing: 
https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8280.jpg 
 

And yes, I’ll be connecting the alternator to the house bank as well, 
not to the starting bank (with an Echo charger between the house and starting — 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--digital-echo-charge-battery-charger--333669
 
)

For the group: What size wire should I place between the Alternator and 
the House Bank? Do I need a fuse and, if so, how big? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Graham Collins  
> wrote:
> 
> Here is my schematic (should be small enough to slip thru the listserver).
> 
> I used the BlueSea charge combiner on my previous boat, this wiring diagram 
> is for it.  The current boat is getting the same setup, the only difference 
> is likely to be that I connect the alternator to the house bank, not the 
> starting bank.  
> 
> I like the BlueSea switch - one switch does it all.  
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2015-01-30 5:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> Fred,
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — 
>> LOVE this f-in list!!)
>> 
>> 
>> So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
>> understanding it correctly:
>> 
>> 
>> As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another 
>> bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine 
>> for 20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and 
>> if 20 minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would 
>> the starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually 
>> drain the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine 
>> without combining? 
>> 
>> 
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go 
>>> to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the 
>>> start battery topped off.
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>> 
>>> On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
 My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one 
 go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I 
 shouldn’t??)
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Here is my schematic (should be small enough to slip thru the listserver).

I used the BlueSea charge combiner on my previous boat, this wiring 
diagram is for it.  The current boat is getting the same setup, the only 
difference is likely to be that I connect the alternator to the house 
bank, not the starting bank.


I like the BlueSea switch - one switch does it all.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-01-30 5:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Fred,

Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE 
this f-in list!!)


So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
understanding it correctly:


As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another 
bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the 
engine for 20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a 
Wednesday Night, and if 20 minutes is not enough time to effectively 
charge the house bank, would the starting battery then not get 
charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain the starting battery 
to the point that I can’t start the engine without combining?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street > wrote:


Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging 
sources go to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or 
EchoCharge to keep the start battery topped off.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably 
have one go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or 
maybe I shouldn’t??)






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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Edd,
The Echo charger will transfer a portion of the charge power to start battery 
any time the voltage on the house bank is above a certain point (that is 
adjustable too). the amount of power it steals is dependant on the difference 
in the voltages between the two banks. The included instructions are quite good.
James
“Delaney”


From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 4:59 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

Fred, 

Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE this 
f-in list!!)

So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not understanding it 
correctly:

As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another bank when 
the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for 20 
minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if 20 
minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would the 
starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain 
the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without 
combining? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




  On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

  Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go 
to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the start 
battery topped off.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

  On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one 
go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I shouldn’t??)





___

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — the EchoCharge (or a Combiner) will allow current to pass to the start 
battery any time there’s charge current available.  In the case of the 
EchoCharge, it will limit it to a certain number of amps, from the total 
available; in the case of a combiner, it basically makes the house bank and 
start battery into one big sink for the charge current.  So the start battery 
(which will require fairly minimal recharging) should get topped off pretty 
well during your 20-min. motoring; and your solar can finish it off.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Fred,
> 
>   Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE 
> this f-in list!!)
> 
>   So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
> understanding it correctly:
> 
>   As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another 
> bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine 
> for 20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and 
> if 20 minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would 
> the starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually 
> drain the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without 
> combining? 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Fred,

Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE 
this f-in list!!)

So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not 
understanding it correctly:

As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another 
bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for 
20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if 20 
minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would the 
starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain 
the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without 
combining? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go 
> to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the 
> start battery topped off.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one go 
>> to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I shouldn’t??)
> 

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Hi,
   A Raymarine tech mentioned that at the upcoming Miami boat show they will be 
releasing redesigns of everything except auto pilots.  I am not buying now, 
just trivia 

Don



> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have to agree with Joel about the Raymarine touch screen in a saltwater 
> environment. And, Joel, it isn’t just the plotter on your boat. I’ve had the 
> same experience on two other boats recently, and the electronics guy who does 
> much of the work in my area steered a customer refitting a Pacific Seacraft 
> 37 away from the Raymarine for that reason. On the other hand, I find the 
> touch screen on the Garmin 7series work quite well. I was pleasantly 
> surprised.
>  
> As far as software, I find the Garmin more intuitive than the Raymarine. But 
> I’ve had more experience with Garmin plotters over the years, so I suppose 
> that’s sort of an Android vs. iOS thing and not a real difference in 
> capabilities.
>  
> Andy, do you mean WiFi or Bluetooth? The newer Garmin plotters will also 
> interface with a tablet using Bluetooth.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 12:08 PM
> To: Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
>  
> I have an E7.  You will find the touch screen on the iPad easier to use than 
> the E7's after a few days of salt spray.  I did not play with the new B&G or 
> Garmin stuff.  The main reason I did not buy the Garmin that was on the 
> market 3 years ago was it was all touch screen.  I like having the joystick.
>  
> Joel
>  
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by 
> pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.
> 
> I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru. 
> Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I 
> can see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the repeater 
> plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my iPad.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>  
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
> I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
> features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.
> 
> Any Comments?
> 
> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
> below their "suggested" prices. ?
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> --
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have to agree with Joel about the Raymarine touch screen in a saltwater 
environment. And, Joel, it isn’t just the plotter on your boat. I’ve had the 
same experience on two other boats recently, and the electronics guy who does 
much of the work in my area steered a customer refitting a Pacific Seacraft 37 
away from the Raymarine for that reason. On the other hand, I find the touch 
screen on the Garmin 7series work quite well. I was pleasantly surprised.

 

As far as software, I find the Garmin more intuitive than the Raymarine. But 
I’ve had more experience with Garmin plotters over the years, so I suppose 
that’s sort of an Android vs. iOS thing and not a real difference in 
capabilities.

 

Andy, do you mean WiFi or Bluetooth? The newer Garmin plotters will also 
interface with a tablet using Bluetooth.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 12:08 PM
To: Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

 

I have an E7.  You will find the touch screen on the iPad easier to use than 
the E7's after a few days of salt spray.  I did not play with the new B&G or 
Garmin stuff.  The main reason I did not buy the Garmin that was on the market 
3 years ago was it was all touch screen.  I like having the joystick.

 

Joel

 

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by 
pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.

I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru. 
Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I can 
see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the repeater 
plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my iPad.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their "suggested" prices. ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39



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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go to 
the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the start 
battery topped off.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one go 
> to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I shouldn’t??)

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Andrew wrote:

I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use.
Hmm.  I helped someone (a totally blind cane-wielding sailor) move his 
boat a few months ago, and actually was able to use the Raymarine 
instruments without reading a manual.  That said, I sill love my Nexus 
NX2 system, which has not failed in over a decade. It's probably 
as//intuitive.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

Yes — you’re reading it right — and this is the type of setup I’m 
looking to install. The starting battery switch (Switch 2) connects the Engine 
Battery to the starter on the engine. The alternator output goes to the house 
batteries with an echo charger set up between the house batteries and the 
engine battery (“Comb." on this diagram).

It also looks like Switch 1 is also a combiner to connect the House and 
the Engine Battery together to the House Panel. 

My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have 
one go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I 
shouldn’t??)



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:23 PM, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> Just took a quick look and I want to make sure I understand, because it is 
> quite different from mine.  It looks like the engine battery is wired so that 
> you can turn on the key switch (Switch 2?) and start the engine. My batteries 
> both run to the main power switch so I have to turn on both the rotary 
> 1/2/all and a white power toggle switch next to it to get power to the start 
> switch.  Am I reading the diagram correctly?  Dave
> 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Josh,
>> 
>>  Here it is — very helpful.
>> 
>>  
>> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/RichKnowlesPrimary-Wiring.jpg
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find 
>>> the drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 
>>> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" >> > wrote:
>>> Edd,
>>> 
>>> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>>> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
>>> CnC-List
>>> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
>>> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Listers,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
>>> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
>>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
>>> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
>>> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for 
>>> the starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 12 weeks to launch! 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> 
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> 
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> 
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Just took a quick look and I want to make sure I understand, because it is 
quite different from mine.  It looks like the engine battery is wired so that 
you can turn on the key switch (Switch 2?) and start the engine. My batteries 
both run to the main power switch so I have to turn on both the rotary 1/2/all 
and a white power toggle switch next to it to get power to the start switch.  
Am I reading the diagram correctly?  Dave

On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Josh,
> 
>   Here it is — very helpful.
> 
>   
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/RichKnowlesPrimary-Wiring.jpg
>  
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
>> drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 
>> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Edd,
>> 
>> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bill
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
>> Schillay via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
>> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
>> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
>> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
>> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 12 weeks to launch! 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> 
>> Starship Enterprise
>> 
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> 
>> City Island, NY 
>> 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Edd - Going with a single on/off is a good call, if you have a dedicated 
start battery and separate house bank.  I had a great wiring diagram at 
 but just 
looked at it and realized it's eleven years old.  I guess the point is 
that you should design your system to be flexible and avoid a single 
vendor solution.  You (or the next owner) will eventually be replacing 
all the components.


Yeah, I can update the drawing.  I'm just so busy these days. 
(Taking care of business...)


The big thing about having one big house bank is:  drawing your 
batteries down hurts them.  It's better to tie all your batteries 
together and take them down 20 percent before recharging, rather than 
burn half of them down 50 percent.   I know those numbers don't match, 
but a load on a small bank reduces capacity faster than a load on a big 
bank.


Wal



Edd  wrote:

I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House switch and 
use an echo charger for the house bank.

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring diagram 
they can share?



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Re: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have dome most of those North U seminars, and have liked them all.

The tactics I think was by Dave Perry who was really good.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

 

Has anyone done this?  Is it worthwhile?


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

A friend went to Chicago to take it decades ago when it was called the Smart 
Course.  He found it very worthwhile.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Fri, 1/30/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar
 To: "" 
 Date: Friday, January 30, 2015, 10:40 AM
 
 Joel,
A few members of the
 Enterprise crew and I did this a few years back and found it
 to be incredibly informative. Bring a pad and pen and take
 lots of notes.
 
 
 
All the best,
Edd
 
Edd M. Schillay Starship
 Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-B City Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 On Jan
 30, 2015, at 11:37 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Has anyone done this?  Is it worthwhile?
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list
 preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

Here it is — very helpful.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/RichKnowlesPrimary-Wiring.jpg
 

 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
> drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Edd,
> 
> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
>  
> 
> Bill
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
> 
>  
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
> 
>  
> 
> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> 12 weeks to launch! 
> 
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
>  
> 
> Edd
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> 
> Starship Enterprise
> 
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> 
> City Island, NY 
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find
the drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  Edd,
>
> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
> *To:* 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Wiring Diagram
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits.
> Specifically, I'm looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a
> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank.
>
>
>
> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a
> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in
> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel.
>
>
>
> I'm also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for
> the starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank.
>
>
>
> 12 weeks to launch!
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Edd, 

I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.

 

Regards,

 

Bill 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

 

Listers,

 

One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House 
switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 

 

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 

 

I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 

 

12 weeks to launch! 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 

 

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Stus-List Latest chart plotters

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I've got a Zeus touch 7 version 2 and it's everything they say it is and then some.  In addition to navigation it's the integration point for all electronics on the boat. You can get engine "gauges" displayed, you can control audio, it can broadcast via wifi to your Ipad  / android device which can be used as a repeater / actually control it. It ties radar / sonar (High def bottom scanning / imaging), autopilot, you can get live weather info via Sirius with local wind  / Sirius audio.. All in a nice touch screen interface.I love the "sailsteer" functionality. Since it's aware of bearing / wind / boat speed you give it a waypoint / it will show you the laylines.  Long and short when close hauled you get the optimized spot for your next tack taking all into account including current. It works really well. The last race I used it I saved 2 tacks compared to the guy ahead of me..I typically mix nav with a wind gauge and a ton more data points all in one screen.  The touch stuff works well, you can use buttons too.It's pretty darn awesome :-)-Francois1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GeorgiaSent from IBM Notes Traveler
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

You can buy a C&C 35 right now for $5,500.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-C-C-Redwing-Sailboat-30hp-Westerbeke-Diesel-Located-in-Baltimore-Md-/301509240842?forcerrptr=true&hash=item463359e80a&item=301509240842&pt=Sailboats

Ken H.

On 30 January 2015 at 14:17, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From all this conversation I'll add the 35 to my list of possibilities.
> Only 15 years to go! Of course by then larger boats will be easily
> affordable.
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:19 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned
> to reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind
> with less sail has its advantages.
>
> Sail Safe,
>
> Mike
> Virginia Lee, 93295
> 78 C&C36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> Sent from my iPad Mini
>
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
> *To: *bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>
> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a
> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now;
> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>
> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to
> the Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>
>
> I'm sure there's more.
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List Canada 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>
>  Happy winter everyone.
> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to make
> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a
> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
> ICW,
> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
> His
> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
> who
> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to tag
> along with someone going that way for safety.
> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm
> curious on how they handle a big sea.
>
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

From all this conversation I'll add the 35 to my list of possibilities. 
Only 15 years to go! Of course by then larger boats will be easily affordable. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:19 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned to 
> reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind with 
> less sail has its advantages.
> 
> Sail Safe, 
> 
> Mike
> Virginia Lee, 93295
> 78 C&C36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> Sent from my iPad Mini
> 
> 
>>> 
>>> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>>> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
>>> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
>>> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>>>  
>>> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
>>> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>>>  
>>>  
>>> I'm sure there's more.
>>> Richard
>>> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Richard N. Bush
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>  
>>>  
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>> To: C&C List Canada 
>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
>>> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>>> 
>>> Happy winter everyone. 
>>> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to 
>>> make 
>>> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
>>> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
>>> ICW, 
>>> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas. 
>>>  His 
>>> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
>>> who 
>>> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
>>> tag 
>>> along with someone going that way for safety. 
>>> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
>>> curious on how they handle a big sea. 
>>> 
>>> Cheers
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Lake Winnipeg. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of 
>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The pitch of the wheel will determine RPM. I have seen 3k plus form my A-4 and 
I think there was more if I wanted it.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 7:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

Without the 2:1 reduction gear no one with a displacement hull boat is getting 
more than maybe 2400-2600 RPMs out of the A4.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 6:30 PM
To: Bill Coleman; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

FWIW, The atomic 4 was supposed to achieve 30Hp at 3500 RPM, less Hp at lower 
RPMs.

 

Found this on website selling engines replacements:

 

"Several Beta Marine diesel engines are available to replace the Atomic 4 
gasoline engine for your Sailboat engine repower depending upon the vessel's 
displacement. General guidelines for displacement hulls follow, but please 
contact Joe DeMers for a specific recommendation concerning your boat and 
application.

*   Boats displacing up to 7,500 pounds may use the Beta 10 Ten engine.
*   Boats up to 10,000 pounds may use the Beta Marine 13.5 hp engine.
*   Boats between 10,000 and 14,000 pounds need the 20 hp Beta Marine 
engine.
*   Boats between 14,000 and 18,000 pounds require the 28 hp Beta Marine 
engine."

Google, "Beta Marine" to find it.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 5:41:49 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

That’s what she s-

Darn, I’ve got to stop saying that!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

 

I have to ask the question: will it fit in the hole?

 

That's a lot of engine for a 29ft boat. The A-4 only put out About 18hp at the 
RPM that it probably generated pushing your boat. 

 

My yanmar 2gm20f seems to have more power than my A-4 did

 

YMMV

ROB


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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I have been a big Garmin fan, but a couple of things they have done lately
have soured me. Specifically, ending support for the old Garmin proprietary
chip devices, including no more charting updates. I can see moving to the
SD card, in fact I thought they were crazy to have their own format in the
first place, but to discontinue mapping support for a series of devices
only 5 years old...is not good.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 January 2015 at 09:38, Steve Sharkey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Garmin 741 with touchscreen and WiFi and am very happy with it.
> The touch screen works well and is pretty intuitive - especially if you've
> used Garmin before.  Using the WiFi with an iPAD is great.  I can either
> use the Garmin Bluechart navigation program using the boat's GPS location
> or can use the iPAD as a remote station using Garmin Helm.  This let's me
> see and control exactly what the unit at the helm has and lets me lay in a
> new course for the helmsman or, if the autopilot is on, the change the
> autopilot remotely.
>
> Steve
> 1983 C&C 37
> Impromptu
>
> -Original Message- From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 12:22 PM
> To: 'Bill Coleman' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
>
> Bill -
> I'm thinking about going down that same path and interested in what you
> learn about B&G and Garmin chartplotters.  Both have wireless capability
> with ipad control, which is very attractive.  It'd be ideal to play with
> each for a while.  My only experience with B&G is adding a Triton Display
> on
> my Garmin network (replaced 1 of 3 Garmin GMIs).   Seamless integration,
> very good functionality and easy to use once you learn the quirks.
>
> I also have a Raymarine autopilot w/display on the network.  Marginal at
> best.
>
> Good luck and stay in touch on this.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one
> of
> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose,
> etc,
> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807 I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which
> works fine, but all these new features, plus many, many more make my knees
> go weak.
>
> Any Comments?
>
> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin
> anymore.
> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
> below their "suggested" prices. ?
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> of page at:
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>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Edd,
I am in the middle of this project. I am making a house bank with 2 group31 
deep cells and a group 24 for starting. The alternator output is wired directly 
to the house bank and the echo charger handles the start battery. I retained 
the 1/2/all switch for the house bank and added a on/off switch for the start 
battery. My wiring diagram can be found on the Moyer site at 
http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/showthread.php?t=8669
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

Listers, 

One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. Specifically, I’m 
looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House switch and use an 
echo charger for the house bank. 

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring diagram 
they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the alternator, 
the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 

I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the starter and 6 
or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 

12 weeks to launch! 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Steve Sharkey via CnC-List]

I have a Garmin 741 with touchscreen and WiFi and am very happy with it. 
The touch screen works well and is pretty intuitive - especially if you've 
used Garmin before.  Using the WiFi with an iPAD is great.  I can either use 
the Garmin Bluechart navigation program using the boat's GPS location or can 
use the iPAD as a remote station using Garmin Helm.  This let's me see and 
control exactly what the unit at the helm has and lets me lay in a new 
course for the helmsman or, if the autopilot is on, the change the autopilot 
remotely.


Steve
1983 C&C 37
Impromptu

-Original Message- 
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 12:22 PM
To: 'Bill Coleman' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

Bill -
I'm thinking about going down that same path and interested in what you
learn about B&G and Garmin chartplotters.  Both have wireless capability
with ipad control, which is very attractive.  It'd be ideal to play with
each for a while.  My only experience with B&G is adding a Triton Display on
my Garmin network (replaced 1 of 3 Garmin GMIs).   Seamless integration,
very good functionality and easy to use once you learn the quirks.

I also have a Raymarine autopilot w/display on the network.  Marginal at
best.

Good luck and stay in touch on this.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807 I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which
works fine, but all these new features, plus many, many more make my knees
go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their "suggested" prices. ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39



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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I guess it is all what you are used to, I have a Zeus Touch T7 on Firewater and 
like it very much, though part of the attraction is the full integration with 
my Triton instruments, which makes it like a big instrument display in addition 
to being a chartplotter.  I have not really needed the manual for regular use.  


The one thing about the B&G system that is not obvious is the need for some 
additional pieces.  The Zeus T7 at least comes with very limited charts, the T8 
may be better in that regard.  I felt the need to buy charts to even get the 
breakwall in our harbor on the cart.  The other issue is that it really needs 
an external compass transducer to properly function even as a chartplotter.  
There is another optional piece, which I have, to give you iPad control as Andy 
describes below, so it definitely is available.  The bottom line is that the 
price of the T8 alone may not be the true cost to give you the features you 
want.


I think with any of these you need to evaluate it in light of the integration 
opportunities with other instruments and sensors.  If you have relatively 
current Raymarine instruments, they might well talk to the E7.  If you have 
B&G, they might well talk to a Zeus unit.  They aren’t just chartplotters any 
more, they really are designed to be part of a system.  Just my 2 cents.


Regards,


Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 





Sent from Windows Mail





From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Friday‎, ‎January‎ ‎30‎, ‎2015 ‎10‎:‎50‎ ‎AM
To: Bill Coleman, cnc-list@cnc-list.com








I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by 
pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.

I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru. 
Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I can 
see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the repeater 
plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my iPad.


Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine



On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their "suggested" prices. ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39



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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill - 
I'm thinking about going down that same path and interested in what you
learn about B&G and Garmin chartplotters.  Both have wireless capability
with ipad control, which is very attractive.  It'd be ideal to play with
each for a while.  My only experience with B&G is adding a Triton Display on
my Garmin network (replaced 1 of 3 Garmin GMIs).   Seamless integration,
very good functionality and easy to use once you learn the quirks.  

I also have a Raymarine autopilot w/display on the network.  Marginal at
best.  

Good luck and stay in touch on this.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807 I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which
works fine, but all these new features, plus many, many more make my knees
go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their "suggested" prices. ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39



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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I have an E7.  You will find the touch screen on the iPad easier to use
than the E7's after a few days of salt spray.  I did not play with the new
B&G or Garmin stuff.  The main reason I did not buy the Garmin that was on
the market 3 years ago was it was all touch screen.  I like having the
joystick.

Joel

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by
> pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.
>
> I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru.
> Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I
> can see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the
> repeater plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my
> iPad.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one
>> of
>> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose,
>> etc,
>> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
>> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
>> I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
>> features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.
>>
>> Any Comments?
>>
>> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin
>> anymore.
>> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and
>> selling
>> below their "suggested" prices. ?
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[D Harben via CnC-List]

Hi Dave.
   I am also interested. Posting these on your website may be of interest to 
others.

Don



> On Jan 30, 2015, at 12:02 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> I have the wiring diagrams that I put together for my re-wiring project a few 
> years back. Don’t know how much they’ll fit your layout but you’re welcome to 
> them. Contact me off-list if so.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdu Refit
> 
>> On Jan 30, 2015, at 11:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
>> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
>> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
>> 
>>  I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
>> diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
>> alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
>> 
>>  I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
>> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
>> 
>>  12 weeks to launch! 
>> 
>> 
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Edd,

I have the wiring diagrams that I put together for my re-wiring project a few 
years back. Don’t know how much they’ll fit your layout but you’re welcome to 
them. Contact me off-list if so.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 11:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
> 
>   I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
> diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
> alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
> 
>   I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
> 
>   12 weeks to launch! 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use. I can mostly figure it out by
pushing buttons. I have to get out the manual for the B&G.

I'm just about to buy an e7d on advice from my favorite electronics guru.
Another thing I like about it over the B&G is that it has wifi that means I
can see everything on its screen and control it from my iPad. So the
repeater plotter I will have at the nav station (or in my bunk) will be my
iPad.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one
> of
> the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose,
> etc,
> that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
> Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
> I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
> features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.
>
> Any Comments?
>
> Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin
> anymore.
> I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
> below their "suggested" prices. ?
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House 
switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring 
diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in the 
alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 

I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 

12 weeks to launch! 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Re: Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joel,

A few members of the Enterprise crew and I did this a few years back 
and found it to be incredibly informative. Bring a pad and pen and take lots of 
notes.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 11:37 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone done this?  Is it worthwhile?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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Stus-List North U 2015 Racing Tactics Seminar

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Has anyone done this?  Is it worthwhile?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by B&G or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807
I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which works fine, but all these new
features, plus many, many more make my knees go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their "suggested" prices. ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39



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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The Universal was a “drop in” with the same footprint as an A4, If I’m not 
mistaken. Same thing with the newer 4-cyl M35B that is in my 38. 

 

I should think it was a tight fit in a 29, but doable.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 11:24 AM
To: Eric Baumes; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30

 

Can you really fit a 4 banger into a 29-1? I would be surprised. Original spec 
must be a 2-Cyl Yan'erkins with about 15hp, no? They can't all have come with 
A4's.

On Thu Jan 29 2015 at 8:13:48 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Had a 3 cylinder on a previous boats and it was very reliable.

 

As parts go I never had trouble finding the "marine-ized" versions, And as they 
are based on Kubota tractor engines, there is a lot of information about 
finding the non-marine parts at a cheaper price.

 

On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 6:59 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have a M430 diesel and have found it to be bullet proof.  I haven't had to 
buy many parts for it in the 18 year I've had her, but when I need the parts 
they were available.  The parts aren't cheap, but seem to be available.  Other 
than that, I just turn the key, push the button and away we go.  If it is 
professionally rebuilt, it seems like a steal to me.

 

Gary

S/V Expresso

'75 C&C 35 Mk II

East Greenwich, RI, USA

 




~~~_/)~~

 

On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 9:15 PM, jason shoemake via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I've found a Universal M4-30 close to home, 100 miles away, $3,000. Does anyone 
have any experience with these? Are parts available? The seller says its been 
completely rebuilt and has one hour on it, was on eBay earlier this year for 
$4,5000, why didn't it sell??

 My '78 29-1 has long since had the A4 gutted along with the fuel tank, panel, 
shaft and everything but the strut, gone! 

It was gifted to me with a long shaft 9.9.

She's on the hard here in Mississippi, needing a few other things as well.

I just cant bring myself to launch her with that O/B astern.

 

So the question I'm asking is Pull the trigger on the M4 or hold off, wait 
for a better opportunity?

 

Thanks,

Jason Shoemake

SV Bijou

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Love my M4-30, smooth as silk and plenty power for my 35 MKII with the H5
Autoprop.  Normal wear and tear stuff, like belts and filters available at
NAPA, haven't needed any other parts yet but it is essentially a Kubota
diesel so I expect you could find just about anything you need...check
Torresen Marine http://www.torresen.com/service/engine/
The M4-30 replaced an A4 in my 35 MKII and I think it was made as a drop in
replacemnet for the A4 in terms of space required and mounting... I think
that since you had an A4 in your 29 it will fit OK and it will power the
boat well IMHO.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 12:24 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can you really fit a 4 banger into a 29-1? I would be surprised. Original
> spec must be a 2-Cyl Yan'erkins with about 15hp, no? They can't all have
> come with A4's.
>
>
> On Thu Jan 29 2015 at 8:13:48 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Had a 3 cylinder on a previous boats and it was very reliable.
>>
>> As parts go I never had trouble finding the "marine-ized" versions, And
>> as they are based on Kubota tractor engines, there is a lot of information
>> about finding the non-marine parts at a cheaper price.
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 6:59 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a M430 diesel and have found it to be bullet proof.  I haven't
>>> had to buy many parts for it in the 18 year I've had her, but when I need
>>> the parts they were available.  The parts aren't cheap, but seem to be
>>> available.  Other than that, I just turn the key, push the button and away
>>> we go.  If it is professionally rebuilt, it seems like a steal to me.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V Expresso
>>> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 9:15 PM, jason shoemake via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I've found a Universal M4-30 close to home, 100 miles away, $3,000.
 Does anyone have any experience with these? Are parts available? The seller
 says its been completely rebuilt and has one hour on it, was on eBay
 earlier this year for $4,5000, why didn't it sell??
  My '78 29-1 has long since had the A4 gutted along with the fuel tank,
 panel, shaft and everything but the strut, gone!
 It was gifted to me with a long shaft 9.9.
 She's on the hard here in Mississippi, needing a few other things as
 well.
 I just cant bring myself to launch her with that O/B astern.

 So the question I'm asking is Pull the trigger on the M4 or hold
 off, wait for a better opportunity?

 Thanks,
 Jason Shoemake
 SV Bijou


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>>>
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>>>
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned to 
reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind with 
less sail has its advantages.

Sail Safe, 

Mike
Virginia Lee, 93295
78 C&C36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> 
>> 
>> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>> 
>> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
>> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
>> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>>  
>> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
>> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>>  
>>  
>> I'm sure there's more.
>> Richard
>> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>  
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-7255
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> To: C&C List Canada 
>> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
>> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>> 
>> Happy winter everyone. 
>> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to 
>> make 
>> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
>> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
>> ICW, 
>> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
>> His 
>> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
>> who 
>> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
>> tag 
>> along with someone going that way for safety. 
>> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
>> curious on how they handle a big sea. 
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Lake Winnipeg. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
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