Re: Stus-List Lake Michigan Randevous

[John Bousfield via CnC-List]

Muskegon would be great!
John and Marjolein
dutch girl

On Thursday, April 7, 2016, Jon Tasker via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As member of Muskegon Yacht Club, I would be happy to make any and all
> arrangements for a randevous at MYC if there is sufficient interest. Just
> step up and let me know what the level of interest is!
> Jon Tasker
> Ghost Rider
> C 37 1985
> MYC
>
> >   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Youb can quite easily make one. Have a look at the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91YlX4MRv3Q 

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 21:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Hi Ron,

You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think
this is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I
make one? 

For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage the
sail.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

When I had my mainsail made I had the sail maker include the dogbones
(strops) in both reef cringles and I had him add a web nylon handle above
the cringles so that you can pull the sail and control its movement while
setting the dogbone.  I have considered making my dogbones longer by
removing the strop from the rings and just using amsteel to tie the rings
on either side of the cringle.

I already have a 4:1 cunningham so an extension of the idea above would be
to have the length of amsteel long enough to hook the horn opposite of the
cunningham then set the cunningham hook in the eye that is sticking through
the cringle.  Now when you pull the cunningham you get a 8:1 advantage as
well as a lot of flexibility for tack height.  One concern is that this
orientation may not hold the tack in position fore and aft relative to the
horns.

So if you absolutely want strops you'll have to get your sail maker to add
them.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

You could also use your Cunningham. You have one?

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 6:47 PM Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Ron,
>
> You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think
> this is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I
> make one?
>
> For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
> reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage
> the sail.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> Atacama 33 mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

>From PO I have some through binnacle and GPS zip tied to outside tubing and
through small waterproof deck fitting. At first I just thought it was lazy
to go to deck fitting, but it is much more serviceable and accessible fwiw.

Kevin
89 30-2 Osprey

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 7:24 PM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.
>
> You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
> compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
> > Wiring
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Bill...saw you...in all probability...return from a race last year just before 
labor day last year.   Been thru Pentwater twice in the last couple of 
yearswe really like Snug Harbor.  Interested in a rendezvous!Spencer & 
Martha Johnson 84 Landfall 38 "Alegria"Winters in WaukeganSummers in 
Racine, WI


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone___

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 47

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 04/08/2016  3:33 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 47 

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  Optimus Prime (Tom Buscaglia)
   2. Re:  Optimus Prime (Martin DeYoung)
   3. Re:  West System Epoxy & resin (Graham Collins)
   4.  37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring
  (Edd Schillay)
   5. Re:  Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous (Bill Coleman)
   6. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Rjcasciato)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2016 12:56:44 -0700
From: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime
Message-ID:
<201604081957.u38jva5h026...@jax4mhob03.myregisteredsite.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"

Martin

Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?

Tom B

At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:
>Message: 1
>Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
>From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
>Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in 
>the freezer to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high 
>temp epoxies (use in aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
>
>We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy 
>hardener since 1972.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Martin

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 20:07:11 +
From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Optimus Prime
Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Yes, he's in shipping.

Best regards,

Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime

Martin

Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?

Tom B

At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com<mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: 
<23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local<mailto:23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.

We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since 
1972.

Best regards,

Martin

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
<http://www.sv-alera.com/>
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 17:23:40 -0300
From: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: <blu436-smtp253c4b08c384c70db2a9c6bd8...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Hi Danny
If the resin comes out milky you need to warm it up to de-crystalize 
it.  A bucket

Stus-List (no subject)

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.

You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Ga

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
>Wiring
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Stus-List Pedestal Guard

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

Edd,  when I ran cables down my pedestal guard I had to open up a hole into to 
deck (under removable cover) to run cables below deck.  Sealing the hole wasn't 
easy as cable running through made it less than perfect. That's the best I 
could come up with.

Best,

Steve 
DejaVu 34+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 4:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Optimus Prime (Tom Buscaglia)
>   2. Re:  Optimus Prime (Martin DeYoung)
>   3. Re:  West System Epoxy & resin (Graham Collins)
>   4.  37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring
>  (Edd Schillay)
>   5. Re:  Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous (Bill Coleman)
>   6. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Rjcasciato)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2016 12:56:44 -0700
> From: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime
> Message-ID:
><201604081957.u38jva5h026...@jax4mhob03.myregisteredsite.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Martin
> 
> Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
>> From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
>> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in 
>> the freezer to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high 
>> temp epoxies (use in aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
>> 
>> We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy 
>> hardener since 1972.
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Martin
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 20:07:11 +
> From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Optimus Prime
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Yes, he's in shipping.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Martin
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 12:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime
> 
> Martin
> 
> Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
> From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com<mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
> Message-ID: 
> <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local<mailto:23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
> to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
> aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.
> 
> We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener 
> since 1972.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Martin
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
>

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Ron,

You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think this 
is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I make one? 

For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the 
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage the 
sail.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Edd

I put the navpod on a pedestal guard that was about 8" taller than 
the old one.  I then ran the wire through the inside of the pedestal 
guard to under the support plate for the guard, just under the 
binnacle where it exits the pedestal when I installed my e7 MFD.  I 
had to tap into the binnacle light for power, but it came out clean and nice.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/9578375619/in/dateposted-public/

I really don't see any way you could run the wires through the bottom 
of the pedestal guard...


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 17:27:11 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal
Guard   Wiring
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Josh,

I replaced my steering cables last year and the sheaves appear to be 
all right. As I have it now, my old GPS has a clamp which attaches to 
the guard and the wire goes into the pedestal under the engine 
controls (See photo in one of my recent Captain?s Log entries: 
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2016/02/stardate-116104.html 
).


I was wondering if anyone has successfully ran wires through the 
pedestal guard all the way down to under the cockpit deck. And, if 
so, how did they get the wires aft from there?


I can always install the new e95 the same way as the the old one, but 
was hoping there would be a way to do it more stylishly without 
seeing any wires at the helm. I suppose I can drill another hole in 
the guard under the strut that attaches the guard the pedestal and 
run the wires into the pedestal from there, but was hoping to run all 
the way down. Of course, if that involves removing the pedestal, then 
I?ll forget it.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


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Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Edd, 
I've been quiet about this because I haven't run wires through my pedestal 
guard because the feet on mine are solid underneath. A single bolt attaches 
each foot. Edson sells a two bolt foot that is needed to use the guard as a 
conduit. Last I checked the feet cost $50 each. 

If you go that route you will need to penetrate your cockpit floor into your 
aft cabin ceiling and from there, you can use plastic wiremold used for TV 
installs. It comes in several sizes and colors and there are fittings to cap 
the end or turn 90 degrees horizontally or 90 degrees vertically. I suggest you 
check out 
http://www.newark.com/wiremold/pn10l08v/raceway-1-pieces-nonmetallic-pvc/dp/07J8029?CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-SHOPPING-NEW-WIREMOLD=81605889141=Cj0KEQjwrZ24BRC098fr-OqnuMkBEiQAKQ9lgIC6kSSF_D91zaHMqNXng3O9qMCuOr8S-7t5AoPDuM8aAh0H8P8HAQ
 

Check out whats available at Home Depot or Lowes. This stuff sticks on using 3M 
double sided tape. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Edd Schillay"  
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 5:27:11 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring 

Josh, 

I replaced my steering cables last year and the sheaves appear to be all right. 
As I have it now, my old GPS has a clamp which attaches to the guard and the 
wire goes into the pedestal under the engine controls (See photo in one of my 
recent Captain’s Log entries: 
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2016/02/stardate-116104.html ). 

I was wondering if anyone has successfully ran wires through the pedestal guard 
all the way down to under the cockpit deck. And, if so, how did they get the 
wires aft from there? 

I can always install the new e95 the same way as the the old one, but was 
hoping there would be a way to do it more stylishly without seeing any wires at 
the helm. I suppose I can drill another hole in the guard under the strut that 
attaches the guard the pedestal and run the wires into the pedestal from there, 
but was hoping to run all the way down. Of course, if that involves removing 
the pedestal, then I’ll forget it. 

All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





On Apr 8, 2016, at 5:10 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Edd, 

I have had my pedestal completely apart twice in 5 years. If you've never done 
this then stand by your in for a treat. 

Below the pedestal is a idle plate that holds 2 sheaves that change the 
direction of the steering cables from vertical to horizontal. That plate is 
made of carbon steel and in all likelihood is rotting away after 30 years of 
marine environment. You'll also find that edson no longer makes these... 
Period. I just bought the last one. I believe Chuck did a rebuild and write up 
which Stu posted in the DIY section. Take a look. 

While its apart you'll probably want to replace the drive chain and cableat 
a minimum. Almost any other maintenance can be done any other time. Except 
paint. If you have any inclination to paint the pedestal then this would also 
be a good time. 

I have a GPS/chartplotter mounted inside my arch. There are two 1/4" wires that 
supply it. There is also a +12v and Gnd that go to the compass light. All 4 of 
these are bundled and fit through holes in the idler plate. Then they lead back 
under the floor pan. There are 3 through wall penetrations that lead in through 
the port wall. Keep the penetration as high as possible but below the floor 
pan. Mine was as far aft as possible but just before the gutter in front of the 
port lazarette. Very out of the way. You may choose to just go in where the 
engine control cables enter. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Apr 8, 2016 4:25 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Listers, 

Has anyone with 1989-1993 C installed instruments into a NavPod (or similar) 
onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run the wires 
down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the bottom, where 
did you go from there? 

As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the deck 
above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I may be 
wrong. 

Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot control 
head at the helm. 


All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










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Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I replaced my steering cables last year and the sheaves appear to be all right. 
As I have it now, my old GPS has a clamp which attaches to the guard and the 
wire goes into the pedestal under the engine controls (See photo in one of my 
recent Captain’s Log entries: 
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2016/02/stardate-116104.html 
). 

I was wondering if anyone has successfully ran wires through the pedestal guard 
all the way down to under the cockpit deck. And, if so, how did they get the 
wires aft from there? 

I can always install the new e95 the same way as the the old one, but was 
hoping there would be a way to do it more stylishly without seeing any wires at 
the helm. I suppose I can drill another hole in the guard under the strut that 
attaches the guard the pedestal and run the wires into the pedestal from there, 
but was hoping to run all the way down. Of course, if that involves removing 
the pedestal, then I’ll forget it. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


> On Apr 8, 2016, at 5:10 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> I have had my pedestal completely apart twice in 5 years.  If you've never 
> done this then stand by your in for a treat.
> 
> Below the pedestal is a idle plate that holds 2 sheaves that change the 
> direction of the steering cables from vertical to horizontal.  That plate is 
> made of carbon steel and in all likelihood is rotting away after 30 years of 
> marine environment.  You'll also find that edson no longer makes these... 
> Period.  I just bought the last one.  I believe Chuck did a rebuild and write 
> up which Stu posted in the DIY section.  Take a look.
> 
> While its apart you'll probably want to replace the drive chain and 
> cableat a minimum.  Almost any other maintenance can be done any other 
> time.  Except paint.  If you have any inclination to paint the pedestal then 
> this would also be a good time.
> 
> I have a GPS/chartplotter mounted inside my arch.  There are two 1/4" wires 
> that supply it.  There is also a +12v and Gnd that go to the compass light.  
> All 4 of these are bundled and fit through holes in the idler plate.  Then 
> they lead back under the floor pan.  There are 3 through wall penetrations 
> that lead in through the port wall.  Keep the penetration as high as possible 
> but below the floor pan.  Mine was as far aft as possible but just before the 
> gutter in front of the port lazarette.  Very out of the way.  You may choose 
> to just go in where the engine control cables enter.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 8, 2016 4:25 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Has anyone with 1989-1993 C installed instruments into a NavPod (or 
> similar) onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run 
> the wires down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the 
> bottom, where did you go from there? 
> 
> As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the deck 
> above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I may be 
> wrong. 
> 
> Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot control 
> head at the helm.
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
>   

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Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

I have had my pedestal completely apart twice in 5 years.  If you've never
done this then stand by your in for a treat.

Below the pedestal is a idle plate that holds 2 sheaves that change the
direction of the steering cables from vertical to horizontal.  That plate
is made of carbon steel and in all likelihood is rotting away after 30
years of marine environment.  You'll also find that edson no longer makes
these... Period.  I just bought the last one.  I believe Chuck did a
rebuild and write up which Stu posted in the DIY section.  Take a look.

While its apart you'll probably want to replace the drive chain and
cableat a minimum.  Almost any other maintenance can be done any other
time.  Except paint.  If you have any inclination to paint the pedestal
then this would also be a good time.

I have a GPS/chartplotter mounted inside my arch.  There are two 1/4" wires
that supply it.  There is also a +12v and Gnd that go to the compass
light.  All 4 of these are bundled and fit through holes in the idler
plate.  Then they lead back under the floor pan.  There are 3 through wall
penetrations that lead in through the port wall.  Keep the penetration as
high as possible but below the floor pan.  Mine was as far aft as possible
but just before the gutter in front of the port lazarette.  Very out of the
way.  You may choose to just go in where the engine control cables enter.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 8, 2016 4:25 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Has anyone with 1989-1993 C installed instruments into a NavPod (or
> similar) onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run
> the wires down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the
> bottom, where did you go from there?
>
> As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the
> deck above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I
> may be wrong.
>
> Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot
> control head at the helm.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thanks Ron,

That's pretty much how I do it now.  I just keep thinking there might be
something better... Guess not.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 4:33 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh:
>
> If what you’re trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew
> of the Main……….that’s a lot of force needed for a single line.  What’s
> commonly done is to make up a “strap loop” probably 6” long with stainless
> rings at each end and fed through the tack grommet before sewing the loop
> closed…Then on the top side of the gooseneck fitting, install a reefing
> hook ……Then the line reefing is used for the clew portion of the main and
> when it comes time to reef, you simply lower the main and drop one of the
> rings over the reefing hook. The other ring keeps the loop from pulling
> through the cringle.  Then tighten the halyard again.
>
>
>
> Then use the clew reefing line to set the final sail shape.
>
>
>
> The fitting that mounts on the gooseneck is like this one………
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-8-Reefing-Hook-Sailboat-Sailing-Hardware-Schaefer-Marine-54-21-New-/172132586166?hash=item2813e6d2b6:g:-TwAAOSwwpdW5YT9=mtr
>
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Ron Casciato
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, April 08, 2016 2:24 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>
>
>
> Awesome guys!  Thanks everyone for the input.  It looks like "that's just
> the way it is".  Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with
> anything earth shatteringly better.
>
> As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes
> in the boom.   Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks
> cleaner so I'll probably stick with a tied on method.
>
> Does anybody have any thoughts on using a  soft shackle and an eye splice
> to attach the reefing lines around the boom?
>
> I was also considering a single line reefing system.  One challenge is
> that where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up
> to the reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling
> holes extends to the mast as well.  So if I tried a single line reef, it
> would have the line turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously)
> but instead of simply running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the
> line would run back up to the reef cringle, and back down on the other side
> of the boom to another turning block which would lead back to the winch and
> cleat where it would finish.
>
> Thoughts on my plan?
>
> Thoughts on single line reefing?  I've heard some pretty strong arguments
> against and only a few advocates.
>
> Thanks again,
> Josh
>
> On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> >...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...
>
> Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still
> tie the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.
>
> The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as
> stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie
> Epstein via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robbie Epstein
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>
> My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a
> Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can
> position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The
> reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing
> cringle you want to use.
>
> Robbie Epstein
>
> 1980 C 40
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Josh:

If what you're trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew
of the Mainthat's a lot of force needed for a single line.  What's
commonly done is to make up a "strap loop" probably 6" long with stainless
rings at each end and fed through the tack grommet before sewing the loop
closed.Then on the top side of the gooseneck fitting, install a reefing hook
..Then the line reefing is used for the clew portion of the main and when it
comes time to reef, you simply lower the main and drop one of the rings over
the reefing hook. The other ring keeps the loop from pulling through the
cringle.  Then tighten the halyard again.

 

Then use the clew reefing line to set the final sail shape.

 

The fitting that mounts on the gooseneck is like this one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-8-Reefing-Hook-Sailboat-Sailing-Hardware
-Schaefer-Marine-54-21-New-/172132586166?hash=item2813e6d2b6:g:-TwAAOSwwpdW5
YT9
 =mtr  

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 2:24 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

 

Awesome guys!  Thanks everyone for the input.  It looks like "that's just
the way it is".  Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with
anything earth shatteringly better. 

As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in
the boom.   Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner
so I'll probably stick with a tied on method.  

Does anybody have any thoughts on using a  soft shackle and an eye splice to
attach the reefing lines around the boom?

I was also considering a single line reefing system.  One challenge is that
where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the
reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes
extends to the mast as well.  So if I tried a single line reef, it would
have the line turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but
instead of simply running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line
would run back up to the reef cringle, and back down on the other side of
the boom to another turning block which would lead back to the winch and
cleat where it would finish.

Thoughts on my plan?

Thoughts on single line reefing?  I've heard some pretty strong arguments
against and only a few advocates.

Thanks again, 
Josh

On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"
 wrote:

>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie
the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.

Best regards,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie
Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing
cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40


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Re: Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Can I get there through the Highland Canal?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 12:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

 

I could throw a C Rendezvous here in Colorado, but I suspect mine is the only 
C in the state :)

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

SV Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "wwadjourn" 
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:02:55 AM
Subject: Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

 

Any Lake Michigan listers interested in a LM meet up?  Pentwater Mi Would be 
central.  So would Wisconsin shore.  Just sayin' we can't let the coasters have 
all the fun!  

Bill Walker

Evening Star

CnC 36

Pentwater, Mi.

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

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Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Has anyone with 1989-1993 C installed instruments into a NavPod (or similar) 
onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run the wires 
down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the bottom, where 
did you go from there? 

As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the deck 
above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I may be 
wrong. 

Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot control 
head at the helm.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







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Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Danny
If the resin comes out milky you need to warm it up to de-crystalize 
it.  A bucket of very hot water will do the trick nicely, plop the can 
into it and let it sit a half hour.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-04-08 3:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.
would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?
Should I just buy more?
Danny


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Re: Stus-List Optimus Prime

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Yes, he's in shipping.

Best regards,

Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime

Martin

Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?

Tom B

At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
From: Martin DeYoung >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: 
<23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.

We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since 
1972.

Best regards,

Martin

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Stus-List Optimus Prime

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Martin

Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?

Tom B

At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
From: Martin DeYoung 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in 
the freezer to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high 
temp epoxies (use in aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.


We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy 
hardener since 1972.


Best regards,

Martin


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

If you draw that out I believe it’s 3 X 180 degree turn, 3 X 90 degree turn and 
one nominal 30 degree deflection.  Personally I would opt for 2 line but I’m 
biased toward that anyway.

John



> On Apr 8, 2016, at 2:50 PM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My single line reefing works almost exactly as you describe (at the mast end, 
> the line goes down to the mast collar, then up to the reefing cringle 
> (actually a dog bone there)). The only difference is that I have a car inside 
> the boom, so the line is split. It works just fine. You can reef from the 
> cockpit, without leaving it. The real main advantage is that you just crank 
> it up and eventually it is done; no need to adjust this then something else. 
> This might be an advantage for larger sails (larger boats).
>  
> Not that I am a single-line reefing advocate (or that the fact that I use it 
> is an argument for it).
>  
> The main arguments for two-line reefing is that it is simpler; does not 
> require any modifications to the boom and potentially allows for a better 
> shape of the reefed sail. You don’t even need a line up front if you have a 
> gooseneck reefing hook.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 14:24
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>  
> Awesome guys! Thanks everyone for the input. It looks like "that's just the 
> way it is". Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with anything 
> earth shatteringly better.
> As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in 
> the boom. Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner so 
> I'll probably stick with a tied on method.
> Does anybody have any thoughts on using a soft shackle and an eye splice to 
> attach the reefing lines around the boom?
> I was also considering a single line reefing system. One challenge is that 
> where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the 
> reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes 
> extends to the mast as well. So if I tried a single line reef, it would have 
> the line turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but instead of 
> simply running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line would run back 
> up to the reef cringle, and back down on the other side of the boom to 
> another turning block which would lead back to the winch and cleat where it 
> would finish.
> Thoughts on my plan?
> Thoughts on single line reefing? I've heard some pretty strong arguments 
> against and only a few advocates.
> Thanks again, 
> Josh
> On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>> >...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...
>> 
>> Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom. I still tie 
>> the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.
>> 
>> The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
>> stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Martin
>> Calypso
>> 1971 C 43
>> Seattle
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Robbie Epstein via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Robbie Epstein
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>> 
>> My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a 
>> Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can 
>> position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points. The 
>> reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing 
>> cringle you want to use.
>> 
>> Robbie Epstein
>> 
>> 1980 C 40
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.

We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since 
1972.

Best regards,

Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

Danny,

Two suggestions; check on the West systems web site and,
if the bond is to critical (e.g. very important vs. cosmetic) run a test batch 
(2 pumps of each part) mix well and let cure.  If it sets up and looks normal I 
would use it.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.

would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?

Should I just buy more?

Danny
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

My single line reefing works almost exactly as you describe (at the mast end, 
the line goes down to the mast collar, then up to the reefing cringle (actually 
a dog bone there)). The only difference is that I have a car inside the boom, 
so the line is split. It works just fine. You can reef from the cockpit, 
without leaving it. The real main advantage is that you just crank it up and 
eventually it is done; no need to adjust this then something else. This might 
be an advantage for larger sails (larger boats).

Not that I am a single-line reefing advocate (or that the fact that I use it is 
an argument for it).

The main arguments for two-line reefing is that it is simpler; does not require 
any modifications to the boom and potentially allows for a better shape of the 
reefed sail. You don’t even need a line up front if you have a gooseneck 
reefing hook.

Marek

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 14:24
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Awesome guys! Thanks everyone for the input. It looks like "that's just the way 
it is". Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with anything earth 
shatteringly better. 

As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in the 
boom. Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner so I'll 
probably stick with a tied on method. 

Does anybody have any thoughts on using a soft shackle and an eye splice to 
attach the reefing lines around the boom?

I was also considering a single line reefing system. One challenge is that 
where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the 
reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes extends 
to the mast as well. So if I tried a single line reef, it would have the line 
turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but instead of simply 
running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line would run back up to the 
reef cringle, and back down on the other side of the boom to another turning 
block which would lead back to the winch and cleat where it would finish.

Thoughts on my plan?

Thoughts on single line reefing? I've heard some pretty strong arguments 
against and only a few advocates.

Thanks again, 
Josh

On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  >...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

  Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom. I still tie 
the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

  The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.

  Best regards,

  Martin
  Calypso
  1971 C 43
  Seattle

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
Epstein via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Robbie Epstein
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

  My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a 
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can 
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points. The 
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing cringle 
you want to use.

  Robbie Epstein

  1980 C 40


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Danny,

Two suggestions; check on the West systems web site and,
if the bond is to critical (e.g. very important vs. cosmetic) run a test batch 
(2 pumps of each part) mix well and let cure.  If it sets up and looks normal I 
would use it.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.

would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?

Should I just buy more?

Danny
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

From the West website:

Store at room temperature. Keep containers closed to prevent 
contamination. With proper storage, resin and hardeners should remain 
usable for many years. Over time, 105 Resin will thicken slightly and 
will therefore require extra care when mixing. Repeated freeze/thaw 
cycles during storage may cause crystallization of 105 Resin. Warm resin 
to 125°F and stir to dissolve crystals.


Hardeners may darken with age, but physical properties are not affected 
by color. After a long storage, verify the metering accuracy of the 
pumps and mix a small test batch to assure proper curing.


Bill Bina

On 4/8/2016 2:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.
would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?
Should I just buy more?
Danny



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Not too keen on the single line reefing arrangement.  You're adding another 180 
degree bend into a system that is already loaded with friction.

I do have single line reefing and with a block at the luff and an electric 
winch it's fine for the first reef, marginal for the second.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 2:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Awesome guys!  Thanks everyone for the input.  It looks like "that's just the 
> way it is".  Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with anything 
> earth shatteringly better. 
> 
> As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in 
> the boom.   Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner 
> so I'll probably stick with a tied on method. 
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts on using a  soft shackle and an eye splice to 
> attach the reefing lines around the boom?
> 
> I was also considering a single line reefing system.  One challenge is that 
> where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the 
> reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes 
> extends to the mast as well.  So if I tried a single line reef, it would have 
> the line turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but instead of 
> simply running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line would run back 
> up to the reef cringle, and back down on the other side of the boom to 
> another turning block which would lead back to the winch and cleat where it 
> would finish.
> 
> Thoughts on my plan?
> 
> Thoughts on single line reefing?  I've heard some pretty strong arguments 
> against and only a few advocates.
> 
> Thanks again, 
> Josh
> 
>> On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> >...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...
>> 
>> Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie 
>> the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.
>> 
>> The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
>> stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Martin
>> Calypso
>> 1971 C 43
>> Seattle
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
>> Epstein via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Robbie Epstein
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>> 
>> My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a 
>> Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can 
>> position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The 
>> reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing 
>> cringle you want to use.
>> 
>> Robbie Epstein
>> 
>> 1980 C 40
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter. would the sub freezing 
temps have had any ill effect? Should I just buy more? Danny___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie the 
reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks. 

Best regards,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a Schaefer 
Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can position the 
clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The reefing line goes 
through a hook that you use to select which reefing cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40 


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our reef lines starts at the slides on the T track, go through the grommets
at the reef points on the mainsail, and then run to the back of the boom
where they goes over the sheaves and disappears inside the boom to reappear
at the mast and so on to the cabin-top rope clutches and winches.

The gives us 2:1 right away.  The cabin-top winch does the rest.

The slide on the T track looks a lot like this:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358559|2358565=116621

Ken H.


On 8 April 2016 at 13:40, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Josh, Our mast and boom were built by Offshore Spars.  Our boom has a
> track bolted to the starboard side with pin stop slides we use for the
> reefing points.
>
> You can see it in this photo (assuming the link works):
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/PbbNaZG4WaXGQEHL8
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 8 April 2016 at 13:00, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Yeah Len,
>>
>> I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom.  In fact I just had them
>> all remade by zepherworks.  The middle one is for the outhaul.  First reef
>> is on the stbd and second reef is on the port.  If you only tie it in the
>> reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew is free to
>> come up off the boom.  I was thinking maybe someone had come up with
>> something better than tying.  I was thinking about maybe splicing an eye in
>> the line and then luggage tagging it to the boom... Or soft shackling it to
>> the load line after passing around the boom.   Just something to clean it
>> up a little.
>>
>> Josh
>> On Apr 8, 2016 10:47 AM, "Mitchell's via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the
>>> coach roof led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the
>>> boom. The two ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line
>>> stopper knot (figure of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook
>>> the Rams horn to the appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate
>>> reef rope. Then re-tension the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice
>>> shape like a footless main and no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or
>>> fuss with the stack pack. Check to see if your boom has the extra sheaves.
>>> Len
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Agree.  Boom to cringle back to boom for the 2:1.

Here's Touche's reef block and track.  The boom has eye straps on the other
side corresponding to the sail's reef points.  They are located so the reef
line pulls down and aft.  The block gets moved accordingly.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsMkJRUm1LUWlpdlE

Here's the reef cleat.  Mast person can simply pull it from the gooseneck
area.  It cleats itself.  To release just pull it outward.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsNWRFclhRUGVmZ3M

Dennis C.

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 11:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't like tieing the reef line at the reef point.  It pulls the sail to
> that side and places a lot of stress on the grommet.  I'd use either a reef
> hoof or a dog-bone so you are pulling down, not sideways.  Also, if you
> attach the line to the boom you are getting a 2:1 purchase.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Josh, Our mast and boom were built by Offshore Spars.  Our boom has a
>> track bolted to the starboard side with pin stop slides we use for the
>> reefing points.
>>
>> You can see it in this photo (assuming the link works):
>>
>> https://goo.gl/photos/PbbNaZG4WaXGQEHL8
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On 8 April 2016 at 13:00, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah Len,
>>>
>>> I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom.  In fact I just had
>>> them all remade by zepherworks.  The middle one is for the outhaul.  First
>>> reef is on the stbd and second reef is on the port.  If you only tie it in
>>> the reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew is
>>> free to come up off the boom.  I was thinking maybe someone had come up
>>> with something better than tying.  I was thinking about maybe splicing an
>>> eye in the line and then luggage tagging it to the boom... Or soft
>>> shackling it to the load line after passing around the boom.   Just
>>> something to clean it up a little.
>>>
>>> Josh
>>> On Apr 8, 2016 10:47 AM, "Mitchell's via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the
 coach roof led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the
 boom. The two ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line
 stopper knot (figure of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook
 the Rams horn to the appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate
 reef rope. Then re-tension the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice
 shape like a footless main and no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or
 fuss with the stack pack. Check to see if your boom has the extra sheaves.
 Len

 Sent from my mobile device.
 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!

>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I don't like tieing the reef line at the reef point.  It pulls the sail to
that side and places a lot of stress on the grommet.  I'd use either a reef
hoof or a dog-bone so you are pulling down, not sideways.  Also, if you
attach the line to the boom you are getting a 2:1 purchase.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 12:40 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh, Our mast and boom were built by Offshore Spars.  Our boom has a
> track bolted to the starboard side with pin stop slides we use for the
> reefing points.
>
> You can see it in this photo (assuming the link works):
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/PbbNaZG4WaXGQEHL8
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 8 April 2016 at 13:00, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Yeah Len,
>>
>> I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom.  In fact I just had them
>> all remade by zepherworks.  The middle one is for the outhaul.  First reef
>> is on the stbd and second reef is on the port.  If you only tie it in the
>> reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew is free to
>> come up off the boom.  I was thinking maybe someone had come up with
>> something better than tying.  I was thinking about maybe splicing an eye in
>> the line and then luggage tagging it to the boom... Or soft shackling it to
>> the load line after passing around the boom.   Just something to clean it
>> up a little.
>>
>> Josh
>> On Apr 8, 2016 10:47 AM, "Mitchell's via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the
>>> coach roof led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the
>>> boom. The two ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line
>>> stopper knot (figure of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook
>>> the Rams horn to the appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate
>>> reef rope. Then re-tension the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice
>>> shape like a footless main and no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or
>>> fuss with the stack pack. Check to see if your boom has the extra sheaves.
>>> Len
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Josh, Our mast and boom were built by Offshore Spars.  Our boom has a track
bolted to the starboard side with pin stop slides we use for the reefing
points.

You can see it in this photo (assuming the link works):

https://goo.gl/photos/PbbNaZG4WaXGQEHL8

Ken H.

On 8 April 2016 at 13:00, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yeah Len,
>
> I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom.  In fact I just had them
> all remade by zepherworks.  The middle one is for the outhaul.  First reef
> is on the stbd and second reef is on the port.  If you only tie it in the
> reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew is free to
> come up off the boom.  I was thinking maybe someone had come up with
> something better than tying.  I was thinking about maybe splicing an eye in
> the line and then luggage tagging it to the boom... Or soft shackling it to
> the load line after passing around the boom.   Just something to clean it
> up a little.
>
> Josh
> On Apr 8, 2016 10:47 AM, "Mitchell's via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the coach
>> roof led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the boom.
>> The two ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line stopper
>> knot (figure of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook the Rams
>> horn to the appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate reef rope.
>> Then re-tension the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice shape like
>> a footless main and no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or fuss with
>> the stack pack. Check to see if your boom has the extra sheaves. Len
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah Len,

I have the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom.  In fact I just had them
all remade by zepherworks.  The middle one is for the outhaul.  First reef
is on the stbd and second reef is on the port.  If you only tie it in the
reef hole and not the boom (through the reef hole) then the clew is free to
come up off the boom.  I was thinking maybe someone had come up with
something better than tying.  I was thinking about maybe splicing an eye in
the line and then luggage tagging it to the boom... Or soft shackling it to
the load line after passing around the boom.   Just something to clean it
up a little.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 10:47 AM, "Mitchell's via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the coach
> roof led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the boom.
> The two ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line stopper
> knot (figure of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook the Rams
> horn to the appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate reef rope.
> Then re-tension the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice shape like
> a footless main and no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or fuss with
> the stack pack. Check to see if your boom has the extra sheaves. Len
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

The only thing I would suggest is to use some pad-eye under the boom or some 
other way to make sure that the line around the boom cannot slide forward. It 
has to work as an outhaul, as well.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

At a recent LOOR night Geoff Moore from North Sails spoke about sails and trim
for the "offshore" races. His recommendation was to have the reefing line tied
around the boom.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



  Josh 

  The 2007 C that we race and the 2008 C that I sail on both are just 
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it is 
done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear on 
paint on the two C and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from the reef 
line. 

  Mike 
  Persistence 
  1987 Frers 33 
  Halifax, NS 
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred,

I know that 60hz hum and its harmonic brethren all too well - I used to be
in a very loud rock band that used excessive gain to cover up terrible
guitar playing...

Regarding putting in a bus bar instead of connecting everything to the
engine:  For the sake of brevity I didn't explain that I have most negative
wires going to what I think is the original terminal block - it's basically
just two bolts (one for + and one -) set in a piece of plastic.  The
negative from that then goes to the motor nut.

I cleaned the old terminal block up, and it conducts well, but, it's
probably not a bad idea to just get two new Blue Sea terminal blocks.
___

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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

ted by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 09:42:58 -0400
From: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
Message-ID: <9b4f5989-2ac2-4d33-aa31-7a2e86cd4...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and
advice.

Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it
was odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for
a lightning system.  I hadn't considered an old short wave or Loran setup.  

I'm going to disconnect it.  Thanks again and enjoy the weekend.

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York




--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 10:02:44 -0400
From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
Message-ID: <004401d1919f$62328280$26978780$@atlanticbb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port
side of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s)
run from pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then
forward to a winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that the
reefed foot of the sail is pulled taut against the boom. A bit ugly, but
effective in keeping the sail flat.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 7, 2016 11:18 PM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

 

Ok guys (& gals), 

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.
I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop
which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track
to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.
See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made
this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could
find was the harken bat-car system and it is designed to mount a track and
then have a car ride on the track.  This seems costly and adds what seems
like considerable clew height.  The clew height may be inconsequential since
the tack height is normally elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 09:18:01 -0500
From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
Message-ID: <50f18710-e207-4311-ae89-32e382de8...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I?m coming down on the side of a ground plate for LORAN, as somebody else
mentioned.  If it were my boat, I?d probably pull the plate at the next haul
out and repair the holes in the hull.

As far as a ground loop goes, they?re pretty common in audio and RF systems;
I?m going to stick with audio as that?s my experience base.  Let?s say you
have two audio devices a ways apart, each powered by a local AC outlet.  You
connect an audio path between those two devices, including a wire that
attaches the ground points of each.  If there?s any voltage differential
between the AC grounds of the two devices (more common than you?d think, for
a variety of reasons), you then get voltage trying to equalize itself over
both the AC grounds AND the audio ground you established when you connected
the audio run.  This will manifest itself in a buzz in the audio, generally
at 60Hz and its harmonic frequenc

Stus-List Boom Fittings

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Josh, My 1989 37+ has two ropes that go through the boom and to the coach roof 
led aft to the winches and a rams horn hook on the front of the boom. The two 
ropes go to each reef point on the leech and I use a line stopper knot (figure 
of eight) to secure. I let off halyard tension, hook the Rams horn to the 
appropriate reef point and tighten the appropriate reef rope. Then re-tension 
the halyard and we are done. The sail has a nice shape like a footless main and 
no need to wrap the freshly painted boom or fuss with the stack pack. Check to 
see if your boom has the extra sheaves. Len 

Sent from my mobile device. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

At a recent LOOR night Geoff Moore from North Sails spoke about sails and trim
for the "offshore" races. His recommendation was to have the reefing line tied
around the boom.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Josh 
 
The 2007 C that we race and the 2008 C that I sail on both are just 
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it is 
done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear on 
paint on the two C and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from the reef 
line. 
 
Mike 
Persistence 
1987 Frers 33 
Halifax, NS 
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 40

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

t time to
>> rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
>> made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
>> them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
>> apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
>> paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
>> on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
>> well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
>> also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the
>> butt.  I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a
>> slug stop which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and
>> down the track to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to
>> lock it in place.  See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda
>> hoping someone made this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope
>> track) but all I could find was the harken bat-car system and it is
>> designed to mount a track and then have a car ride on the track.  This
>> seems costly and adds what seems like considerable clew height.  The clew
>> height may be inconsequential since the tack height is normally elevated
>> from the boom anyway.
>> 
>> Anybody have any ideas?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S l/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> ___ This list is supported by
>> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
>> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 11:35:12 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
> Message-ID:
><2e3a836186564bd4a51537abb5af9...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> What you have is what I would expect to see as a ground system for a SSB, AM 
> transmitter (really old), or LORAN. Also note I don?t really like using the 
> engine as a central grounding point. BlueSea sells a number of terminals you 
> can use as the central grounding point and then run one heavy ground wire to 
> the engine.
> The mast should be connected to the keel bolts, but IMHO you can get rid of 
> the metal plate (a dynaplate maybe?) and the extra wiring. You could have a 
> ground loop issue if you started grounding things to the plate or the keel 
> bolts. You would end up with voltage differences between the engine, the 
> plate, and the keel that could prove quite destructive. If you do nothing 
> else, make SURE nothing is connected that way.
> Joe
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 
> BTW ? I had a ground loop issue at work. My phone was somehow wired to the 
> exchange in another building ? mile away. There was enough difference in 
> ground potential at the two sites that significant voltage was present on the 
> phone wire and it was introducing horrible noise.
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
> Shelquist via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 10:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Pete Shelquist
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
> 
> Sounds like the PO may have been misinformed, or overly cautious, and figured 
> more is better.
> 
> Someday will someone explain to me the concept/theory of a ground loop?  I?m 
> looking at you Fred.
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 5:59 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
> 
> Did the boat ever have a shortwave radio?
> 
> Was a previous owner afraid of a lightning strike?
> 
> Just guessing.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On 7 April 2016 at 18:20, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> I am in the home

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

What Gary describes is exactly how the reeling is configured on the booms of 
both my 38 and my 25. The only thing I might add to his description is that the 
pad eye and blocks are not directly under the reef cringles, but a couple of 
inches aft of that. The reef line not only holds the cringles down, it tensions 
the new foot of the reefed sail.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 10:02, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port side 
> of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s) run 
> from pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then forward 
> to a winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that the reefed 
> foot of the sail is pulled taut against the boom. A bit ugly, but effective 
> in keeping the sail flat.
>  
> Gary
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 7, 2016 11:18 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
>  
> Ok guys (& gals),
> 
> I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to 
> rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't 
> made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied 
> them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little 
> apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new 
> paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes on 
> the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how well 
> the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It also 
> means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.  I 
> also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop 
> which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track 
> to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.  
> See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made 
> this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could 
> find was the harken bat-car system and it is designed to mount a track and 
> then have a car ride on the track.  This seems costly and adds what seems 
> like considerable clew height.  The clew height may be inconsequential since 
> the tack height is normally elevated from the boom anyway.
> 
> Anybody have any ideas?
> 
> Thanks, 
> Josh Muckley
> S l/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m coming down on the side of a ground plate for LORAN, as somebody else 
mentioned.  If it were my boat, I’d probably pull the plate at the next haul 
out and repair the holes in the hull.

As far as a ground loop goes, they’re pretty common in audio and RF systems; 
I’m going to stick with audio as that’s my experience base.  Let’s say you have 
two audio devices a ways apart, each powered by a local AC outlet.  You connect 
an audio path between those two devices, including a wire that attaches the 
ground points of each.  If there’s any voltage differential between the AC 
grounds of the two devices (more common than you’d think, for a variety of 
reasons), you then get voltage trying to equalize itself over both the AC 
grounds AND the audio ground you established when you connected the audio run.  
This will manifest itself in a buzz in the audio, generally at 60Hz and its 
harmonic frequencies (120Hz, 240Hz, etc.).

Basically any time you have voltage differential with two different paths 
between devices, you can have a ground loop.

I also agree with Joe about having everything terminate for ground at the 
engine; I usually advise putting in a Blue Sea bus bar with a single large wire 
to the engine, then terminate the grounds at the bus bar.  It makes things much 
cleaner, and usually much easier to work on and more reliable, as you don’t 
have a hole bunch of wires subject to constant engine vibration.

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2016, at 9:26 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sounds like the PO may have been misinformed, or overly cautious, and figured 
> more is better.  
>  
> Someday will someone explain to me the concept/theory of a ground loop?  I’m 
> looking at you Fred.
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 5:59 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
>  
> Did the boat ever have a shortwave radio?
>  
> Was a previous owner afraid of a lightning strike?
>  
> Just guessing.
>  
> Ken H.
>  
> On 7 April 2016 at 18:20, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hey everyone, 
> 
> I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat.  The wiring was in 
> frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was corroded 
> and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I didn't like 
> the looks of.  So, I ripped it all out and started anew with a whole bunch of 
> Ancor marine wire, a BlueSea panel, BlueSea fuse blocks, and went about 
> re-wiring.
> 
> All negative wires connect back to the nut at the back of my A4 motor, which 
> is also connected to my battery negatives.  All good.
> 
> However, there is one large gauge (maybe 10 gauge?) old wire going from the 
> nut on the back of my A4 to a nut attached to a metal plate that is attached 
> to the outside of the hull.  This metal plate is located slightly forward and 
> to starboard of the front of the A4.  Another wire coming from the nut over 
> this metal plate is also connected to a keel bolt.
> 
> I don't see this plate or wire on the original C wiring diagram for the 
> boat.  And from what I know, having more than one negative point outside the 
> hull will create a ground loop.  
> 
> Any thoughts on why someone did this?  
> 
> Thanks, 
> Ryan
> Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30 mki
> New York

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port side 
of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s) run from 
pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then forward to a 
winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that the reefed foot of 
the sail is pulled taut against the boom. A bit ugly, but effective in keeping 
the sail flat.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 7, 2016 11:18 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

 

Ok guys (& gals), 

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to 
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't made 
with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied them with 
a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little apprehensive of 
the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new paint.  So I was 
toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes on the top or the 
bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how well the fasteners 
would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It also means removing 
the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.  I also considered 
having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop which would allow me 
to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track to its optimal position 
before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.  See the attached picture 
of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made this type of thing (a pad eye 
anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could find was the harken bat-car 
system and it is designed to mount a track and then have a car ride on the 
track.  This seems costly and adds what seems like considerable clew height.  
The clew height may be inconsequential since the tack height is normally 
elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks, 
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and advice.

Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it was 
odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for a 
lightning system.  I hadn't considered an old short wave or Loran setup.  

I'm going to disconnect it.  Thanks again and enjoy the weekend.

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Josh

The 2007 C that we race and the 2008 C that I sail on both are just 
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it is 
done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear on 
paint on the two C and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from the reef 
line.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS

In the water since Monday!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 5:46 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments


Yeah Paul, I had considered doing that.  I also considered having a single 
piece of rod drilled and tapped at the correct distance for my selected pad eye 
fitting.

I'm just kinda trying to figure out what others do.  Everybody else just tie it 
to the boom?

Thanks for the idea, lets keep 'em coming.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 1:37 AM, "Paul Baker via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
You could perhaps find an eye nut that would fit onto a stopper that you 
pictured instead of the knurled nut.
Cheers,
Paul.

Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 23:17:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

Ok guys (& gals),

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to 
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't made 
with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied them with 
a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little apprehensive of 
the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new paint.  So I was 
toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes on the top or the 
bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how well the fasteners 
would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It also means removing 
the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.  I also considered 
having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop which would allow me 
to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track to its optimal position 
before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.  See the attached picture 
of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made this type of thing (a pad eye 
anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could find was the harken bat-car 
system and it is designed to mount a track and then have a car ride on the 
track.  This seems costly and adds what seems like considerable clew height.  
The clew height may be inconsequential since the tack height is normally 
elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

What you have is what I would expect to see as a ground system for a SSB, AM 
transmitter (really old), or LORAN. Also note I don’t really like using the 
engine as a central grounding point. BlueSea sells a number of terminals you 
can use as the central grounding point and then run one heavy ground wire to 
the engine.
The mast should be connected to the keel bolts, but IMHO you can get rid of the 
metal plate (a dynaplate maybe?) and the extra wiring. You could have a ground 
loop issue if you started grounding things to the plate or the keel bolts. You 
would end up with voltage differences between the engine, the plate, and the 
keel that could prove quite destructive. If you do nothing else, make SURE 
nothing is connected that way.
Joe
Coquina C 35 MK I

BTW – I had a ground loop issue at work. My phone was somehow wired to the 
exchange in another building ½ mile away. There was enough difference in ground 
potential at the two sites that significant voltage was present on the phone 
wire and it was introducing horrible noise.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 10:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

Sounds like the PO may have been misinformed, or overly cautious, and figured 
more is better.

Someday will someone explain to me the concept/theory of a ground loop?  I’m 
looking at you Fred.


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

Did the boat ever have a shortwave radio?

Was a previous owner afraid of a lightning strike?

Just guessing.

Ken H.

On 7 April 2016 at 18:20, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hey everyone,
I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat.  The wiring was in 
frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was corroded 
and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I didn't like 
the looks of.  So, I ripped it all out and started anew with a whole bunch of 
Ancor marine wire, a BlueSea panel, BlueSea fuse blocks, and went about 
re-wiring.

All negative wires connect back to the nut at the back of my A4 motor, which is 
also connected to my battery negatives.  All good.

However, there is one large gauge (maybe 10 gauge?) old wire going from the nut 
on the back of my A4 to a nut attached to a metal plate that is attached to the 
outside of the hull.  This metal plate is located slightly forward and to 
starboard of the front of the A4.  Another wire coming from the nut over this 
metal plate is also connected to a keel bolt.
I don't see this plate or wire on the original C wiring diagram for the boat. 
 And from what I know, having more than one negative point outside the hull 
will create a ground loop.
Any thoughts on why someone did this?
Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 mki
New York


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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah Paul, I had considered doing that.  I also considered having a single
piece of rod drilled and tapped at the correct distance for my selected pad
eye fitting.

I'm just kinda trying to figure out what others do.  Everybody else just
tie it to the boom?

Thanks for the idea, lets keep 'em coming.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 1:37 AM, "Paul Baker via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> You could perhaps find an eye nut that would fit onto a stopper that you
> pictured instead of the knurled nut.
> Cheers,
> Paul.
>
> --
> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 23:17:44 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: muckl...@gmail.com
>
> Ok guys (& gals),
>
> I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to
> rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
> made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
> them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
> apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
> paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
> on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
> well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
> also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the
> butt.  I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a
> slug stop which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and
> down the track to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to
> lock it in place.  See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda
> hoping someone made this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope
> track) but all I could find was the harken bat-car system and it is
> designed to mount a track and then have a car ride on the track.  This
> seems costly and adds what seems like considerable clew height.  The clew
> height may be inconsequential since the tack height is normally elevated
> from the boom anyway.
>
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S l/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___ This list is supported by
> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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