Re: Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

My 30-2 also has a zerk, original from factory.
Allan RDrumroll 30-2 # 90


  From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list  
Cc: kelly petew 
 Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 1:16 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Location of "grease cup"
   
Alan,
I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible thru 
a locker].
But, I'm not aware of a grease cup.  
Can you tell me where to look?  
Under the emergency tiller joint?
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
'91 C
Siren Song
Deltaville, va.
 
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
From: ALAN BERGEN 
To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
in it) will make the steering easier. If the cup is already screwed in all
the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
easier.

 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

SLE:  45.95
SLU:  45.95
SGF:  24.8
SGM:  24.8
SPL:  13.6

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C 35 mk
> III?  I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and
> don't need to find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the
> ballpark of what the boat was designed for.
>
> It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind
> of racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Contact Bacon Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They have a large inventory of sails 
of all kinds. They rate them (I think honestly) – their web site has dimensions 
for most boats and if you just tell them what boat you have, they will give you 
a list of appropriate sails.

 

Gary

Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Sam Wheeler 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

 

Hi all,

 

Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C 35 mk III?  
I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and don't need to 
find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the ballpark of what 
the boat was designed for.

 

It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind of 
racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.

 

Thanks!

 

Sam

35-3

SF

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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

hi Eugene,
 
On my previous boat, a 29 mkII, i
replaced the mainsheet traveller with this kit from Lewmar : 
http://www.lewmar.com/node/14612?v=26085


It works very well, it’s powerful so
you will love to play with it! i bet you were not into those pin stoppers...and 
the price is good compared to a similar Harken
setup.



The installation is simple, you cut
the track to lenght, and the bolts slide into the new tracks so you can use the
existing holes. Fairly easy DIY project. I did have to had a ¼ inch thick, 
alumimun
flat bar to make it clear the recessed. 


Writing this i remember now the
worst was to drill that flat bar to fit existing holes… yeah without a 
pressdrill it took some patience to punch and drill...


 good luck!


Bruno Lachance


Bécassine, 33 mkII


New-richmond, Qc


 


 
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 15:16:38 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: efo...@gmail.com

Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox 
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild the 
pump this week-end.
Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller stops 
with some actual rigging. Anyone have any experience using the existing 
traveller bar on their C 29 mark II with running rigging from Harken or 
Ronstan? I'm hoping the track is compatible so I don't have to rebed it.
Thanks,
Gene

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Re: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Gene,
When you are installing the intake flap valve assembly (part #9), it must be 
installed the correct way. Look at this link. 
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=5096.0
James
Delaney
C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC

From: Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 4:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Eugene Fodor 
Subject: Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox 
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild the 
pump this week-end.

Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller stops 
with some actual rigging. Anyone have any experience using the existing 
traveller bar on their C 29 mark II with running rigging from Harken or 
Ronstan? I'm hoping the track is compatible so I don't have to rebed it.

Thanks,

Gene



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Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C 35 mk
III?  I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and
don't need to find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the
ballpark of what the boat was designed for.

It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind of
racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.

Thanks!

Sam
35-3
SF
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Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild
the pump this week-end.

Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller
stops with some actual rigging. Anyone have any experience using the
existing traveller bar on their C 29 mark II with running rigging from
Harken or Ronstan? I'm hoping the track is compatible so I don't have to
rebed it.

Thanks,

Gene
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Re: Stus-List Voltage

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

There is another issue that used to be common back in the day before combiners:
The process of starting the engine both puts noise into the wiring and drops 
the voltage considerably. That can drive some electronics nuts for sure! My 
electronics don't run off the engine battery, so it has been a long time since 
I dealt with that.
Can you give us:

1.  Voltage without engine

2.  Lowest voltage during engine start

3.  Voltage with engine running

Joe Della Barba
Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Voltage

[Larry via CnC-List]

Dave

I was an electronic tech in the navy for 21 years, so I have a little
experience equipment. However I will no way attempt to diagnose your problem
without having a hands on. I will tell you that 0.3 volts variations from
the supply is not going to cause any problems. You can check the
specifications on your equipment, in a manual or on the net and you will
find that tolerances are far greater than that.

 

I will point you to some common problems that can create all kinds of weird
symptoms. I am assuming you have and know how to use a mustimeter. I am also
assuming it was working 100% correctly at one time.

1.   Check the ground on all your batteries for 

a.   Tight connections

b.  Corrosion free connections.

c.   While you are at it check all the connections.

d.  Check resistance from ground on the battery to some common ground.

e.  Check for stray voltage on the ground.

2.   Check all your connector/plugs 

a.   for corrosion, water or any contamination.

b.  Check the pins and insure they are fully extended, none are pushed
back even a little.

c.   Check the female pins for the same, to ensure a good contact.

3.   You will need to check your charging system for proper ground and
power. No corrosion or loose connection. No stray voltage.

4.   If none of these produce any results, it could be a number of
things. But most likely it is one piece of the hardware/software is gone bad
and needs to be replaced. If you know someone with the same set up and will
to work with you, you can swap components until you find the bad component.
R and R a component. If that does fix it. Put the original back in.

5.   It could be as simply as the firmware is corrupted and needs to be
flashed and reinstalled.

Hope this helps.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 10:57 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Voltage

 

I have been having problems with my GPS (Zeus T8) and Autopilot (EV-100)
since I installed them last year.  The T8 periodically starts activating the
touch screen and beeping away like I am tapping away on it.  This correlates
with nothing I have noticed.  Yesterday it did not do it under battery power
during a race, but started when I started the engine.  I am 95% sure that it
has happened without the engine running as well.  The Raymarine periodically
freezes while in Autopilot mode.  This also happens with or without the
engine.  A  B tech support guy I talked to thinks the problems are related
in some way to the network (Seatalk NG/NMEA) or the power.  Yesterday, I
detached the network cable from the B when it started beeping and
continued to beep away.  So that leaves power.  Today, I checked the voltage
being supplied to the T8.  The batteries had not been topped up since a race
the day before and were reading about 12.5-12.6 volts (AGM).  At the GPS
power cable, I measured 12.2 (one battery)-12.3 volts (both batteries).
Does that voltage drop make any sense and is that 0.3 volts potentially
relevant to the problems?  Dave

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 

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Re: Stus-List Voltage

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

No the voltage drop doesn't seem too significant.

Yes your problems could be cause by low voltage.

The only problem with your troubleshooting is that you aren't reading the
supply voltage under load.  Most of your electronics should be good down to
about 10.7 or lower.  Under load you could be experiencing an even bigger
loss of voltage.

My GPS reports battery voltage and usually reads about a volt lower than
the actual battery voltage.  Sometimes when starting the engine it will
reset the gps because of the combined drop in voltage at the end of the
line.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 2, 2016 1:58 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I have been having problems with my GPS (Zeus T8) and Autopilot (EV-100)
> since I installed them last year.  The T8 periodically starts activating
> the touch screen and beeping away like I am tapping away on it.  This
> correlates with nothing I have noticed.  Yesterday it did not do it under
> battery power during a race, but started when I started the engine.  I am
> 95% sure that it has happened without the engine running as well.  The
> Raymarine periodically freezes while in Autopilot mode.  This also happens
> with or without the engine.  A  B tech support guy I talked to thinks the
> problems are related in some way to the network (Seatalk NG/NMEA) or the
> power.  Yesterday, I detached the network cable from the B when it
> started beeping and continued to beep away.  So that leaves power.  Today,
> I checked the voltage being supplied to the T8.  The batteries had not been
> topped up since a race the day before and were reading about 12.5-12.6
> volts (AGM).  At the GPS power cable, I measured 12.2 (one battery)-12.3
> volts (both batteries).   Does that voltage drop make any sense and is that
> 0.3 volts potentially relevant to the problems?  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Voltage

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Anything between 12 and 14.5 or so would be fine to run the equipment. Did you 
check voltage engine on? Noise on the other hand. THAT could do it. An easy 
test is to get a 12 volt battery and supply the equipment independent of ship's 
power. The likely culprits are an issue with the alternator (bad diode or ???) 
putting a lot of noise or an issue with the spark plug wires (gas engines 
only).I flew a plane once that would do this, to get any nav gear to work I had 
to shut off the alternator and then turn it on again when done.
If you have an oscilloscope, you might see something connecting it to the power 
leads and running the engine.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 1:57 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Voltage

I have been having problems with my GPS (Zeus T8) and Autopilot (EV-100) since 
I installed them last year.  The T8 periodically starts activating the touch 
screen and beeping away like I am tapping away on it.  This correlates with 
nothing I have noticed.  Yesterday it did not do it under battery power during 
a race, but started when I started the engine.  I am 95% sure that it has 
happened without the engine running as well.  The Raymarine periodically 
freezes while in Autopilot mode.  This also happens with or without the engine. 
 A  B tech support guy I talked to thinks the problems are related in some 
way to the network (Seatalk NG/NMEA) or the power.  Yesterday, I detached the 
network cable from the B when it started beeping and continued to beep away.  
So that leaves power.  Today, I checked the voltage being supplied to the T8.  
The batteries had not been topped up since a race the day before and were 
reading about 12.5-12.6 volts (AGM).  At the GPS power cable, I measured 12.2 
(one battery)-12.3 volts (both batteries).   Does that voltage drop make any 
sense and is that 0.3 volts potentially relevant to the problems?  Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Voltage

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

I seriously doubt it. My house bank was down to 11.90 after the winter and 
everything still powered up when I tested it. Thankfully, I’m back to 12.65 
now. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









> On Jun 2, 2016, at 1:57 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been having problems with my GPS (Zeus T8) and Autopilot (EV-100) 
> since I installed them last year.  The T8 periodically starts activating the 
> touch screen and beeping away like I am tapping away on it.  This correlates 
> with nothing I have noticed.  Yesterday it did not do it under battery power 
> during a race, but started when I started the engine.  I am 95% sure that it 
> has happened without the engine running as well.  The Raymarine periodically 
> freezes while in Autopilot mode.  This also happens with or without the 
> engine.  A  B tech support guy I talked to thinks the problems are related 
> in some way to the network (Seatalk NG/NMEA) or the power.  Yesterday, I 
> detached the network cable from the B when it started beeping and continued 
> to beep away.  So that leaves power.  Today, I checked the voltage being 
> supplied to the T8.  The batteries had not been topped up since a race the 
> day before and were reading about 12.5-12.6 volts (AGM).  At the GPS power 
> cable, I measured 12.2 (one battery)-12.3 volts (both batteries).   Does that 
> voltage drop make any sense and is that 0.3 volts potentially relevant to the 
> problems?  Dave
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut 
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Voltage

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have been having problems with my GPS (Zeus T8) and Autopilot (EV-100) since 
I installed them last year.  The T8 periodically starts activating the touch 
screen and beeping away like I am tapping away on it.  This correlates with 
nothing I have noticed.  Yesterday it did not do it under battery power during 
a race, but started when I started the engine.  I am 95% sure that it has 
happened without the engine running as well.  The Raymarine periodically 
freezes while in Autopilot mode.  This also happens with or without the engine. 
 A  B tech support guy I talked to thinks the problems are related in some 
way to the network (Seatalk NG/NMEA) or the power.  Yesterday, I detached the 
network cable from the B when it started beeping and continued to beep away.  
So that leaves power.  Today, I checked the voltage being supplied to the T8.  
The batteries had not been topped up since a race the day before and were 
reading about 12.5-12.6 volts (AGM).  At the GPS power cable, I measured 12.2 
(one battery)-12.3 volts (both batteries).   Does that voltage drop make any 
sense and is that 0.3 volts potentially relevant to the problems?  Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my LF38, I installed a Zerk fitting on my grease cup & I think a lot of C 
owners probably did the same.  The grease cup is about 2" in diameter and about 
3/4" deep and is located against the fiberglass housing for the rudder shaft.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Jun 2, 2016, at 1:16 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Alan,
> I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible 
> thru a locker].
> But, I'm not aware of a grease cup.  
> Can you tell me where to look?  
> Under the emergency tiller joint?
>  
> thanks,
>  
> Pete W.
>  
> '91 C
> Siren Song
> Deltaville, va.
>  
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN 
> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
> a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
> in it) will make the steering easier. If the cup is already screwed in all
> the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
> is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
> easier.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My 35/3 had the grease cup on the rudder post.  It is brass, about an inch
to 1.5 inches in diameter with a knurled cap.  The whole thing would
unscrew, I'd remove the cap, but the base back in, add grease and put the
cap on.
If you are going to replace it with a Zerk, you might consider putting a
hose on it so you don't have to crawl all the way back to the rudder post
to get the grease gun on or in the fitting.

Joel

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 1:23 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you have a Zerk on the rudder post sleeve, the previous owner probably
> replaced the grease cup with the Zerk.  The grease cup on my boat is on the
> rudder post sleeve.
>
> AlanBergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 10:16 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>> I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible
>> thru a locker].
>> But, I'm not aware of a* grease cup*.
>> Can you tell me where to look?
>> Under the emergency tiller joint?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Pete W.
>>
>> '91 C
>> Siren Song
>> Deltaville, va.
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
>> From: ALAN BERGEN 
>> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
>> a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
>> in it) will make the steering easier. If the cup is already screwed in all
>> the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
>> is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
>> easier.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you have a Zerk on the rudder post sleeve, the previous owner probably
replaced the grease cup with the Zerk.  The grease cup on my boat is on the
rudder post sleeve.

AlanBergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 10:16 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
> I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible
> thru a locker].
> But, I'm not aware of a* grease cup*.
> Can you tell me where to look?
> Under the emergency tiller joint?
>
> thanks,
>
> Pete W.
>
> '91 C
> Siren Song
> Deltaville, va.
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN 
> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
> a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
> in it) will make the steering easier. If the cup is already screwed in all
> the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
> is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
> easier.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Alan,
I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible thru 
a locker].
But, I'm not aware of a grease cup.  
Can you tell me where to look?  
Under the emergency tiller joint?
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
'91 C
Siren Song
Deltaville, va.
 
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
From: ALAN BERGEN 
To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
in it) will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all
the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
easier.

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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Talk to other 30mkII about the specifics of your mast Lorne. The 34+/36xl
has very racy-flexible mast from what I've seen and a significantly taller
rig. (love those 34+/36's!). To get the mast on my 30mkII to bend 6" would
be on the top end of loads for the mast section and height that we have in
my experience. Other mkII owners may have a different experience.

KD

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 7:38 AM Bmue via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Lorne,
> I found this quite useful...you get the lingo and the overall concepts
> along with good drawings.
>
> http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf
>
> Have fun...
> Bettina
> > On Jun 1, 2016, at 19:47, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.
> However, I have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full
> rig vs. fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays
> are attached at the top.
> > How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay
> is attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know
> all the lingo yet.
> > Thanks.
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi Lorne,
I found this quite useful...you get the lingo and the overall concepts along 
with good drawings.

http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf

Have fun...
Bettina
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 19:47, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, I 
> have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs. 
> fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are 
> attached at the top.
> How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is 
> attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all the 
> lingo yet.
> Thanks.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Francois

You are correct about the 6 inches for masthead.  This is about the same on our 
Frers 33.  It seems very odd when compared with the backstay adjustment on a 
fractional rig like our former J27 or the C 115 we raced.  On the 27 backstay 
pullt the top of mast aft in feet not inches.  It was very noticeable.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard
Subject: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?


The Dutch guy on the Youtube video is full of crap.

It works the exact same way with the masthead rig.  Think about pulling the 
string back on a bow (Bow and arrows) it has the exact same effect. It moves 
the top down and back / bows the mast in middle (Your mast has flexibility 
built into it for that reason) thus flattening the main and tightening the 
forestay  / flattening the entry on the genoa as well.   When I crank on my 
back stay the mast head bends down / back about 6 inches, you can see it if you 
sight it as someone cranks on the backstay.


Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, I
have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs.
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are
attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all
the lingo yet.
Thanks.
Regards











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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Do you have a baby stay?

On 2016-06-02 09:48 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:


The Dutch guy on the Youtube video is full of crap.

It works the exact same way with the masthead rig.  Think about 
pulling the string back on a bow (Bow and arrows) it has the exact 
same effect. It moves the top down and back / bows the mast in middle 
(Your mast has flexibility built into it for that reason) thus 
flattening the main and tightening the forestay  / flattening the 
entry on the genoa as well.   When I crank on my back stay the mast 
head bends down / back about 6 inches, you can see it if you sight it 
as someone cranks on the backstay.



Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay. 
 However, I

have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs.
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are
attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all
the lingo yet.
Thanks.
Regards






















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greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

The Dutch guy on the Youtube video is full of crap. 

It works the exact same way with the masthead rig.  Think about pulling 
the string back on a bow (Bow and arrows) it has the exact same effect. It 
moves the top down and back / bows the mast in middle (Your mast has 
flexibility built into it for that reason) thus flattening the main and 
tightening the forestay  / flattening the entry on the genoa as well. When 
I crank on my back stay the mast head bends down / back about 6 inches, 
you can see it if you sight it as someone cranks on the backstay.


Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, 
I
have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs.
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are
attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all
the lingo yet.
Thanks.
Regards



















 


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Stus-List 34+ chainplate shroud attachment

[David Pulaski via CnC-List]

So now that I've witnessed my yard rig my shroud attachments 2 different ways, 
it's got me wondering what exactly is the *correct* order to attach the shroud 
turnbuckles to the chainplates.
Boat is a '90 34+ with double spreader rig.   The chainplates have 4 holes, and 
three things to attach: uppers, intermediates, and lowers.
So my question is, what's the correct order of attachment, and which hole gets 
skipped? 
Many thanks! 
Dave


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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Lorne

Mostly the backstay on a masthead rig tensions or eases tension on the 
forestay.  This affects jib shape mostly but still does help with mast bend a 
bit for the main as well

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa
Subject: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, I 
have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs. 
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are attached 
at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is 
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all the 
lingo yet.
Thanks.
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Stus-List Pajot Fontaine Lipari

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I realize this may be a long shot but friends are looking to purchase a Pajot 
Fontaine Lipari Maestro.  They had an accepted offer on one but the sellers 
changed their minds.  This is the "Maestro" version which has three cabins 
rather than 4.  If anybody on this list knows of one that may be for sale but 
not yet listed please contact me with the information.  That seems the best way 
to find things

My friends are very specific about the model and cabin configuration they want

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Loctite sealant for marine use? Maybe not?

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Correct, we've tightened up the rail a couple of years ago. still finding butyl 
blobs occasionally inside the boat. I used the poly caulk along the toerail and 
the deck, so don't think it even touched the butyl. We left it to cure for a 
month (boat was stored indoors). BTW I could get the loctite here only sika and 
or quikcrete ...welcome to Canada.
The reason I brought it up is that after it cured it still reacted with the 
interlux brightside - it was supposed to be paintable...
However, Seems to have solved the drips we used to get when it was raining 
hard. But we had a little water come in when we raced last week (rail happened 
to be in the water occasionally? so next step is to use the washable marker 
idea that was suggested, and see if we can ID the exact location and try and 
tighten a bit more. If there is anything left to tighten...

Has anybody ever removed the toerail etc and redone the butyl? It has to be a 
huge job - probably too much trouble for the few drips we are getting so far? 

Thanks for all the good suggestions.
Bettina
C 25 Savannah

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 20:33, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Well not everybody has any Butyl left in their joints to squeeze. I agree I 
> wouldn't use the self leveling unless as a last resort, which I believe it's 
> more or less the situation the original poster is in. Additionally, the PLS40 
> is the one recommended in the article (did anybody RTFA;? I imagine that 
> warning is true of any polyurethane sealant. 3m 4200 has a less explicit, 
> though similar warning.
> 
> I value the scientific approach of Practical Sailor more than internet forums 
> in general, be it SA or C Additionally, searching the forum is a pain in 
> the ass. That is unless you have all day to sort through endless replies that 
> may or may not be helpful (like this one).
> 
> That said, I value much of the experience and help I find here!
> 
> Hope this forum doesn't go dark all of a sudden one day since only one person 
> hold the keys.
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016, 6:33 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hum, 
>> 
>> I clicked on the Loctite link below, and it’s NOT recommended with butyl!  
>> WHAT?  I thought my hull/deck joint was put together with butyl, so it could 
>> be tightened up - only if leaking.  It’s lasted 32 years, so C got a lot 
>> right!  Not sure I’d want to risk/mess with that record. . . 
>> 
>> Remember folks lots of people have to reinvent the wheel, every Spring.  
>> It’s often good to check the archives and what’s worked in the past.
>> 
>> Just checking, Lee
>> 
>> 
>> Not Recommended For
>> 
>> Exterior applications when rain is expected before sealant reaches initial 
>> cure
>> Vertical surface repair (use on horizontal surfaces only)
>> Aircraft runway or tarmac use
>> Joint depths greater than 3/8' (9.5 mm) without the use of a backer rod. In 
>> joints deeper than 3/8' (9.5 mm) the sealant may bubble if applied too deep 
>> or if substrate is not absolutely dry
>> Contact with oil-based caulking compounds, butyl caulking compounds and 
>> silicone sealants(Uncured and cured)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane 
>>> for the past 10 years, above and below the waterline. Quikcrete and Loctite 
>>> are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good 
>>> read.
>>> 
 On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
 Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
  
  
 http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
  
 Steve.
 Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, 
 and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine 
 version.
 
 Loctite Polyurethene here 
 Practical Sailor Article here
 
 Thanks,
 Kevin
 
>> 
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>> 
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>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

When I wiggled back far enough to reach the grease cup on my 36 project boat, I 
found that after 35 years in Florida it was nothing but a flakey ball of rust. 
I tried to turn it anyway but it fell out of the fibreglass as soon as I 
touched it. The tiny bit of grease still protruding from what was left of the 
pipe thread was as hard as plastic. Access required disconnecting the exhaust 
hose and completely removing the port scupper hose. 

To free things up temporarily, I brushed transmission fluid on the rudder shaft 
and on the collar up top. After a surprisingly small bit of working it back and 
forth, it made a huge difference. A hose and a grease fitting is on the list of 
things to do. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
  Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 02:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve


  It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing a 
new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left in it) 
will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all the way,  
remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease is squeezed 
out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering easier.


  Some members have tapped the cup for a Zerk fitting.  Then greasing the 
rudder post can be done with a grease gun.



  Alan Bergen

  35 Mk III Thirsty

  Rose City YC

  Portland, OR


  On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:40 PM, 
  tom via CnC-List  wrot,
  Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection 
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the rudder 
in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for this. The 
local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of question is the 
thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch or 11 1/2 threads 
per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches in length.
  Any help?
  Thanks,
  Tom Oryniak
  33-1
  Carry On


--


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Make sure that you check the alignment of the upper bearing connected to the 
cockpit floor before replacing anything!  Sometimes this bearing shifts 
laterally and make the steering appear to be stiff.  It is an easy correction 
to make.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 2, 2016, at 12:40 AM, tom via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection 
> revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the 
> rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for 
> this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of question 
> is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch or 11 1/2 
> threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches in length.
> Any help?
> Thanks,
> Tom Oryniak
> 33-1
> Carry On
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
in it) will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all
the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
easier.

Some members have tapped the cup for a Zerk fitting.  Then greasing the
rudder post can be done with a grease gun.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:40 PM,
tom via CnC-List  wrot,
Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the
rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for
this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of
question is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch
or 11 1/2 threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches
in length.
Any help?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On
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