Re: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Looks a lot like my regular C&C 30-1.  Sure hate to see prices that low.RonWild 
CheriSTL


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 7:04 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay
   
I want this!  Wonder what the PHRF rating is?  You'll win every regatta with 
this boat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30FT-C-C-RED-WING-SAILBOAT-SAILS-FAST-12-KNOTS-/322326679472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4b0c2acfb0:g:PHgAAOSwA3dYHUuD&item=322326679472

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[robertlmazza via CnC-List]

Boats built in the C&C Custom Shop generally did not use the vinyl rubrail 
sandwiched between the hull flange and deck.

Rob


Sent from Samsung Mobile

 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date:11-13-2016  10:04 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' 
- hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?) 
Ken, et al:
 
The illustrations and text in the manual are pretty much the same as what is in 
the manual that came with Imzadi – Hull Number 047 built in January 1976. 
Except that my manual notes that the rubber rub rail was riveted to the hull 
flange.
 
The stack up is hull flange, butyl, rub rail, butyl, deck, butyl, toe rail. 
Through bolted on 4” spacing.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 9:01 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)
 
The manual for the 1977 C&C 38 is here: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/38manual.pdf
 
See page 9 (3.3 Hull Deck Joint) and the illustration on page 35.
 
 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ken, et al:

 

The illustrations and text in the manual are pretty much the same as what is in 
the manual that came with Imzadi – Hull Number 047 built in January 1976. 
Except that my manual notes that the rubber rub rail was riveted to the hull 
flange.

 

The stack up is hull flange, butyl, rub rail, butyl, deck, butyl, toe rail. 
Through bolted on 4” spacing.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 9:01 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

 

The manual for the 1977 C&C 38 is here: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/38manual.pdf

 

See page 9 (3.3 Hull Deck Joint) and the illustration on page 35.

 

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

3.3 Deck/Hull Joint The hull-to-deck joint details are illustrated in Fig.
1. On assembly, the top of the hull flange is capped with butyl compound to
which is fitted a vinyl rub rail topped by another layer of butyl compound.
The deck is lowered onto the hull and fastened by means of stainless steel
thru-bolts. When the bolts are tightened, the butyl compound in the joint
is forced into the exposed crevices. It should be noted that if a leak
should develop at the hull/deck joint, the thru-bolts in the area may be
tightened, care being taken not to allow the bolt to turn while tightening
the nut.

On 13 November 2016 at 22:01, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> The manual for the 1977 C&C 38 is here: http://www.
> cncphotoalbum.com/download/38manual.pdf
>
> See page 9 (3.3 Hull Deck Joint) and the illustration on page 35.
>
> I doubt the 1973 43' custom is much different.
>
> The Hull to Deck joint on a friend's 1973 C&C 35 Mk.I is essentially what
> is shown in the 1977 drawing in the manual for the 38.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 13 November 2016 at 21:45, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary, Leslie: thanks. As I understand, parts of the toe rail on our boat
>> are also very worn out. To be honest, I never noticed, but I wasn't looking
>> for it when I sailed the boat earlier this year. I am not near her at
>> present. I am only helping with the research.
>>
>> South Shore/Bob seems like an excellent resource. We'll check that out.
>>
>> How does one know if the old sealant is butyl or something else? Can you
>> tell from this photo?
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdwc8k7tem6s39r/toerail1.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> The photo also shows how toe rail corrosion affects the topsides of our
>> C&C 43. Repainting the topsides is on the to do list, too.
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I got a quote for on piece of toe rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It
>>> is an exact replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet
>>> long. I would take the old one off and look before spending the not trivial
>>> amount on a new one, you may have leaks because the original 40 year old
>>> butyl is gone.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Violeta
>>> Ivanova via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 13, 2016 2:46 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Violeta Ivanova 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe
>>> rail replacement?)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks, Bob. This is great information! I was wondering where one might
>>> find scale drawings. I will contact the museum.
>>>
>>> Good to hear removing the toe rail will not affect the joint
>>> structurally. I thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
>>> responded, so I don't send multiple emails.
>>>
>>> Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the
>>> reasons for replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in the
>>> decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and
>>> I am one of her skippers. Great boat!
>>>
>>> I had not seen the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
>>> poking around the website now - great resource!
>>>
>>> We tried Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe rail. Rob
>>> McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If
>>> anyone can think of other possible sources for that toe rail, please let me
>>> know.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Violeta
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Violeta,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the
>>> archives if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
>>> you contact the museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of
>>> the construction plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck
>>> joint. If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first
>>> owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings relating specifically
>>> to your 43.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize
>>> the structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
>>> Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob Mazza
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  Original message 
>>>
>>> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List
>>>
>>> Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>>
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> Cc: Violeta Ivanova
>>>
>>> Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
>>> replacement?)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Greetin

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The manual for the 1977 C&C 38 is here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/38manual.pdf

See page 9 (3.3 Hull Deck Joint) and the illustration on page 35.

I doubt the 1973 43' custom is much different.

The Hull to Deck joint on a friend's 1973 C&C 35 Mk.I is essentially what
is shown in the 1977 drawing in the manual for the 38.

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 21:45, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary, Leslie: thanks. As I understand, parts of the toe rail on our boat
> are also very worn out. To be honest, I never noticed, but I wasn't looking
> for it when I sailed the boat earlier this year. I am not near her at
> present. I am only helping with the research.
>
> South Shore/Bob seems like an excellent resource. We'll check that out.
>
> How does one know if the old sealant is butyl or something else? Can you
> tell from this photo?
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdwc8k7tem6s39r/toerail1.jpg?dl=0
>
> The photo also shows how toe rail corrosion affects the topsides of our
> C&C 43. Repainting the topsides is on the to do list, too.
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I got a quote for on piece of toe rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It
>> is an exact replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet
>> long. I would take the old one off and look before spending the not trivial
>> amount on a new one, you may have leaks because the original 40 year old
>> butyl is gone.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Violeta
>> Ivanova via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 13, 2016 2:46 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Violeta Ivanova 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
>> replacement?)
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Bob. This is great information! I was wondering where one might
>> find scale drawings. I will contact the museum.
>>
>> Good to hear removing the toe rail will not affect the joint
>> structurally. I thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for all the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
>> responded, so I don't send multiple emails.
>>
>> Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the
>> reasons for replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in the
>> decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and
>> I am one of her skippers. Great boat!
>>
>> I had not seen the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
>> poking around the website now - great resource!
>>
>> We tried Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe rail. Rob
>> McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If
>> anyone can think of other possible sources for that toe rail, please let me
>> know.
>>
>>
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Violeta,
>>
>>
>>
>> All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the
>> archives if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
>> you contact the museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of
>> the construction plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck
>> joint. If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first
>> owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings relating specifically
>> to your 43.
>>
>>
>>
>> However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize
>> the structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.
>>
>>
>>
>> A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
>> Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob Mazza
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>>
>> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List
>>
>> Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> Cc: Violeta Ivanova
>>
>> Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
>> replacement?)
>>
>>
>>
>> Greetings all.
>>
>> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from
>> 1973? This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever
>> built. We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure
>> how that might affect the hull/deck joint.
>>
>> Some specific questions:
>>
>> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
>>
>> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>>
>> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Good advice will be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> http

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Gary, Leslie: thanks. As I understand, parts of the toe rail on our boat
are also very worn out. To be honest, I never noticed, but I wasn't looking
for it when I sailed the boat earlier this year. I am not near her at
present. I am only helping with the research.

South Shore/Bob seems like an excellent resource. We'll check that out.

How does one know if the old sealant is butyl or something else? Can you
tell from this photo?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdwc8k7tem6s39r/toerail1.jpg?dl=0

The photo also shows how toe rail corrosion affects the topsides of our C&C
43. Repainting the topsides is on the to do list, too.

Violeta




On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I got a quote for on piece of toe rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It
> is an exact replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet
> long. I would take the old one off and look before spending the not trivial
> amount on a new one, you may have leaks because the original 40 year old
> butyl is gone.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Violeta
> Ivanova via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 13, 2016 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Violeta Ivanova 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
>
>
> Thanks, Bob. This is great information! I was wondering where one might
> find scale drawings. I will contact the museum.
>
> Good to hear removing the toe rail will not affect the joint structurally.
> I thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
> responded, so I don't send multiple emails.
>
> Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the
> reasons for replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in the
> decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and
> I am one of her skippers. Great boat!
>
> I had not seen the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
> poking around the website now - great resource!
>
> We tried Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe rail. Rob
> McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If
> anyone can think of other possible sources for that toe rail, please let me
> know.
>
>
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Violeta,
>
>
>
> All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the
> archives if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
> you contact the museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of
> the construction plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck
> joint. If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first
> owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings relating specifically
> to your 43.
>
>
>
> However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize
> the structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.
>
>
>
> A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
> Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rob Mazza
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List
>
> Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Violeta Ivanova
>
> Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
>
>
> Greetings all.
>
> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973?
> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built.
> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that
> might affect the hull/deck joint.
>
> Some specific questions:
>
> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
>
> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>
> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>
>
>
> Good advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciate

Re: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

I only looked because you posted it Dennis!  Are you still doing the Mongolian 
yacht club thing or whatever it was?  Should have saved it for April 1st, but 
by then the waterfalls may run dry. . .

Thanks anyway, Lee

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I want this!  Wonder what the PHRF rating is?  You'll win every regatta with 
> this boat.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/30FT-C-C-RED-WING-SAILBOAT-SAILS-FAST-12-KNOTS-/322326679472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4b0c2acfb0:g:PHgAAOSwA3dYHUuD&item=322326679472
>  
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I want this!  Wonder what the PHRF rating is?  You'll win every regatta
with this boat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30FT-C-C-RED-WING-SAILBOAT-SAILS-FAST-12-KNOTS-/322326679472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4b0c2acfb0:g:PHgAAOSwA3dYHUuD&item=322326679472

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I use these
http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
and they work really well. they do wear out after a season or two.

Eric Baumes
34/36+

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 5:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Someone on the list found a bunch of cleat chocks on their boat after
> purchasing.  They were made of wood, could've even been homemade.  They
> couldn't figure out what they were so they asked the list.  Looked similar
> to the ones from APS.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Nov 13, 2016 4:30 PM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:
>
> http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>>
>> On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> cleat covers
>>
>>
>> Charlie,
>>
>> Would something like this work?
>>
>> http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
>>
>> or this?
>>
>> http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-
>> pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Someone on the list found a bunch of cleat chocks on their boat after
purchasing.  They were made of wood, could've even been homemade.  They
couldn't figure out what they were so they asked the list.  Looked similar
to the ones from APS.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 13, 2016 4:30 PM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:

http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton  wrote:

>
> On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> cleat covers
>
>
> Charlie,
>
> Would something like this work?
>
> http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
>
> or this?
>
> http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-
> pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories
>
> Ken H.
>


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Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I have the ones from APS on our boat, highly recommended.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS




On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:30 PM -0600, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:

http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton 
mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>> wrote:

On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
cleat covers

Charlie,

Would something like this work?

http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html

or this?

http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories

Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:

http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton  wrote:

>
> On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> cleat covers
>
>
> Charlie,
>
> Would something like this work?
>
> http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
>
> or this?
>
> http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-
> 2-pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories
>
> Ken H.
>
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Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> cleat covers


Charlie,

Would something like this work?

http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html

or this?

http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories

Ken H.
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Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh.  What worries me is the spiral rust running up all the shrouds and 
the backstay.  Has anyone ever seen something like this?  It seems like perhaps 
one strand in the line is rusting.   It's like a barber pole or a candy cane 
stripe.

Thanks,

Mark

On Nov 12, 2016, at 11:37 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As you mentioned the tools used to cut and crimp the terminals are usually 
carbon steel.  During the tooling process some of those iron ions transfer to 
the tooled item and subsequently rust.  If the rig was just replaced I would 
say that it is most likely that.  Most chandleries sell bronze wool which will 
clean this "rust" right up.  The bronze is softer than the stainless so it 
won't scratch and it won't leave more iron ions to rust in the future.   If 
you're still concerned you can use a high power magnifying glass to examine for 
pitting or cracks in the metal where the rust was.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 12, 2016 10:58 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C&C 25.  
Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on the 
lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local rigger 
and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still waiting.  
From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which is no big 
deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come across this?  
I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated. 
 I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where we bought the boat which is 
150 miles away so we could sail it home which makes things more complicated.

Thanks as always,

Mark McMenamy
Ft Pierce FL
C&C 25 "Icicle"
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. My RSA gives +6 for a fixed two-blade prop, and other guys in my 
club think a folding prop is worth even more than that. There's at least one 
RSA (NCPHRF I think) that gives +12. 

Thanks also for the info on the mast step. I'll go with three cross-members if 
I can, while still getting a pump into that sump and not covering up a keel 
bolt. Otherwise two non-rotting, non-deflecting cross-members made out of 
fiberglass board, and properly designed and installed, ought to be better than 
the original setup, and certainly better than my current two cross-members. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Gary Nylander"  
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 1:11:26 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 



Our PHRF rules give you 3 seconds/mile for a fixed prop. I didn’t think that 
was enough, so went with a flex-o-fold. 



On the mast step, I have three cross members under the oak block (which looks 
just like yours) but do not have that big oak block assembly at all. I think 
some previous owner built that thing to make up for the lack of support and the 
fact that the fiberglass guys at the factory didn’t seal the bottom of the 
cross members, which do a great job of wicking up any stray water in the bilge. 



Gary 

#593 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 11:38 AM 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY ; Robert Gallagher  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 





Thank you Rob. 





The primary use of my boat is club racing on a relatively small lake. Generally 
I only motor ten minutes to get out of the marina, and ten minutes to get back 
in, a couple times a week. No cruising, no punching through chop. For me right 
now the most important thing is making the boat as fast as possible - 
minimizing weight, minimizing drag, maximizing (sail) power, etc. My 
competitors in my PHRF fleet all have folding props, so I need to level that 
playing field :) 





Cheers, 


Randy 



- Original Message -



From: "Robert Gallagher via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "Robert Gallagher" < trys...@gmail.com > 
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 8:41:06 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 





JMHO 





The best all around prop for the 30MI with an A-4. 





http://www.atomic4.com/propeller.html 





If you are a hard core racer, this might not be the prop for you. Otherwise, 
this will yield easier docking, more punch through a chop, higher RPM (good for 
the engine in many ways), higher causing speed, all while still providing 
reduced drag under sail. 





Sorry if that sounds like a sales pitch but I was so impressed by that little 
prop that I talk it up every chance I get. 





Just be very careful about using it without a zinc. They tell you that if you 
go zinc less there will be no barnacle growth on the prop. If you end up in a 
'hot' marina the prop will act as your zinc...they replaced my prop but now 
they have more detailed warranty with regards to this. 





Good Luck, 





Rob 


88 30MKIII 


Hamunam 



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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I got a quote for on piece of toe rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It is an 
exact replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet long. I would 
take the old one off and look before spending the not trivial amount on a new 
one, you may have leaks because the original 40 year old butyl is gone.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Violeta 
Ivanova via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Violeta Ivanova 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

 

Thanks, Bob. This is great information! I was wondering where one might find 
scale drawings. I will contact the museum. 

Good to hear removing the toe rail will not affect the joint structurally. I 
thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case. 

 

Thanks for all the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who 
responded, so I don't send multiple emails. 

Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the reasons 
for replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in the decision to 
replace the toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and I am one of her 
skippers. Great boat!

I had not seen the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am poking 
around the website now - great resource!

We tried Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe rail. Rob 
McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If 
anyone can think of other possible sources for that toe rail, please let me 
know. 

 

Violeta  

 

 

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Violeta,

 

All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the archives if 
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If you contact the 
museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of the construction 
plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck joint. If you know 
which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first owner) you most can likely 
get copies of the drawings relating specifically to your 43.

 

However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize the 
structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.

 

A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore Yachts 
in St. Catherines, ON.

 

 

Rob Mazza

 

 

Sent from Samsung Mobile

 

 Original message 

From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List 

Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Violeta Ivanova 

Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?) 

 

Greetings all. 

Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? This 
was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. We would 
like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that might affect 
the hull/deck joint. 

Some specific questions:

1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 

2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?

3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 

 

Good advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Violeta




  


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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

In this case you do not need to replace the toe rail, just re-bed it after 
cleaning up everything.  Still a major job.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Sun, 11/13/16, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Violeta Ivanova" 
 Date: Sunday, November 13, 2016, 11:45 AM
 
 Thanks, Bob. This is
 great information! I was wondering where one might find
 scale drawings. I will contact the museum. 
 
 Good to hear removing
 the toe rail will not affect the joint structurally. I
 thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
 
 
 Thanks for all
 the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
 responded, so I don't send multiple emails. 
 
 Ken - yes, it is the slotted
 aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the reasons for
 replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in
 the decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43'
 belongs to my university, and I am one of her skippers.
 Great boat!
 
 I had not seen 
 the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
 poking around 
 the website now - great resource!
 
 We tried Holland Marine already, but they
 didn't have our toe rail. Rob McLaughlin and Klacko
 Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If anyone
 can think of other possible sources for that toe rail,
 please let me know.     
 
 Violeta  
 
 
 
 On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at
 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Violeta,
 All the drawings for the C&C 43
 reside in the C&C collection in the archives if the
 Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
 you contact the museum curator through the website you can
 order a copy  of the construction plan which most likely
 show the toe rail and hull to deck joint. If you know which
 43 you own (original name of boat or her first owner) you
 most can likely get copies of the drawings relating
 specifically to your 43.
 However, merely removing and
 replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize the structural
 integrity of the hull to deck joint over that
 period.
 A replacement
 rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
 Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
 
 Rob
 Mazza
 
 Sent from Samsung
 Mobile
 
  Original
 message From: Violeta Ivanova via
 CnC-List  Date:11-12-2016  2:19 PM 
 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Violeta Ivanova  Subject:
 Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe
 rail replacement?) 
 Greetings all.
 
 
 Might someone here
 help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from
 1973? This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen
 boats were ever built. We would like to replace the toe rail
 on our boat, but are unsure how that might affect the
 hull/deck joint. 
 
 Some
 specific questions:
 
 1
 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973
 C&C 43'? 
 2 - How is the toe
 rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
 3 - What happens if we remove the toe
 rail (or part of it)? 
 
 Good advice will be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Violeta
 
 
 
   
 
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
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 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On my 1980 version, the hull/deck joint has an internal flange which is bolted. 
Then the L shaped toe rail is bolted on top of that. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Violeta 
Ivanova via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 9:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Violeta Ivanova 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

 

Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed. 

Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the vertical 
part. Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0

We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some of 
the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in), 


Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I can't 
find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am finding about 
the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s: 

- the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted -- is 
that typical?

- the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common on 
C&C? 

- the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional 
stiffness to the joint

Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or could 
our hull/deck joint be very different?

What might happen when we remove the toe rail? 

Thanks,

Violeta

 

 

On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Violeta,

 

There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a C&C 
43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative source 
as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he may respond.

 

Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it would 
help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW, a good 
surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have done a  
complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail and one of my 
good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum toerail on his Cal 
40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.

 

Good luck with your task.

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit  

 

On Nov 12, 2016, 

at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Greetings all. 

Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? This 
was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. We would 
like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that might affect 
the hull/deck joint. 

Some specific questions:

1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 

2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?

3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 

 

Good advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Violeta




  

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


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Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I have mid-ship cleats that need to be prevented from catching any lines while 
club racing.


The boat originally had stainless steel cleat covers that lay flat on the deck 
when the cleat was in use and then could be 'raised' to a vertical position 
during racing to prevent line from catching on the cleat. These had an integral 
'pin' that kept them upright by being captured in a small depression on the top 
of the cleat.


They were held on the deck by SS straps that were bolted into the deck. 


Over the years their bolt holes and the covers themselves have kind of worn 
out. 


I am looking for a simple equivalent that could be placed over the cleat when 
needed and removed when I need the cleat for docking--the cleat is fine so I do 
not need to buy another that can be raised and lowered--I know of this design 
but not its name.


Any suggestions from the list?


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb












cenel...@aol.com


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Stus-List MMA Sealed Bid Boat Sale

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Mass Maritime boat auction is next weekend. Several C&Cs listed. 

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 8 beta

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Massachusetts Maritime Academy 
> Date: November 8, 2016 at 09:34:53 EST
> To: hhallgr...@icloud.com
> Subject: MMA Sealed Bid Boat Sale
> Reply-To: cfonta...@maritime.edu
> 
> 
>   
> Having trouble viewing this email? Click here
> 
> 
> 
> SAVE THE DATE!
>  
> SEALED BID SALE
> Saturday and Sunday
> NOVEMBER 19 and 20, 2016
> 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
>
> 
> 
>  We have a boat for every need in every price range.
> 
> For a regularly-updated list of available boats,
> click on INVENTORY.
>
> The Sealed Bid Sale takes place at
> Massachusetts Maritime Academy's boat storage facility
> located within the confines of Joint Base Cape Cod.
> Entrance to JBCC will be available
> only through the Falmouth Gate.
> Click for DIRECTIONS.
>  
> We look forward to seeing you on November 19 and 20, 2016.
> Chuck Fontaine
> Yacht & Boat Donation Program Director
> cfonta...@maritime.edu 
> 508-830-5006
>   
> Massachusetts Maritime Academy, Yacht & Boat Donation Program, 101 Academy 
> Drive, Buzzards Bay, MA 02532
> Forward email | About our service provider
> Sent by cfonta...@maritime.edu in collaboration with
> 
> Try it free today
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Hi Mike

I couldn't agree more! That one-line mooring is pretty bad. Not really "my"
mooring, though. That photo is at the marina (which shall remain unnamed)
where our boat lives in the summer. One has to fish for the pendant with a
hook too - no fun if you return in the dark.

The extra blue line helps secure the loop once made, but one time it got
caught on the bow as we arrived. Again, no fun!

If I owned a marina, I'd offer the most awesome moorings with double
pendants, etc. Everyone will love stopping at my marina.

Violeta


On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Violeta
>
> I can't help you with your toenail, but I do have a word of caution.  I
> strongly recommend that you use two lines on your mooring ball.  There was
> a fellow at our club that only used one line at the start of the season,
> shortly after launch he had to be pulled off the rocks.  Also one of my
> lines failed this year.  I did like the way you secured the loop at the
> cleat.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Nov 13, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed.
>
> Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the
> vertical part. Here are some photos:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0
>
> We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some
> of the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in),
>
> Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I
> can't find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am
> finding about the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s:
>
> - the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted
> -- is that typical?
> - the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common
> on C&C?
> - the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional
> stiffness to the joint
>
> Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or
> could our hull/deck joint be very different?
>
> What might happen when we remove the toe rail?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Violeta
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Violeta,
>>
>> There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a
>> C&C 43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative
>> source as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he
>> may respond.
>>
>> Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it
>> would help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW,
>> a good surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have
>> done a  complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail
>> and one of my good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum
>> toerail on his Cal 40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.
>>
>> Good luck with your task.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Nov 12, 2016,
>>
>> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>> Greetings all.
>>
>> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from
>> 1973? This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever
>> built. We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure
>> how that might affect the hull/deck joint.
>>
>> Some specific questions:
>>
>> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
>> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>>
>> Good advice will be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go t

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Our PHRF rules give you 3 seconds/mile for a fixed prop. I didn’t think that 
was enough, so went with a flex-o-fold.

 

On the mast step, I have three cross members under the oak block (which looks 
just like yours) but do not have that big oak block assembly at all. I think 
some previous owner built that thing to make up for the lack of support and the 
fact that the fiberglass guys at the factory didn’t seal the bottom of the 
cross members, which do a great job of wicking up any stray water in the bilge.

 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY ; Robert Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

 

Thank you Rob.

 

The primary use of my boat is club racing on a relatively small lake.  
Generally I only motor ten minutes to get out of the marina, and ten minutes to 
get back in, a couple times a week.  No cruising, no punching through chop.  
For me right now the most important thing is making the boat as fast as 
possible - minimizing weight, minimizing drag, maximizing (sail) power, etc.  
My competitors in my PHRF fleet all have folding props, so I need to level that 
playing field :)

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Robert Gallagher via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: "Robert Gallagher" mailto:trys...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 8:41:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

 

JMHO

 

The best all around prop for the 30MI with an A-4.

 

http://www.atomic4.com/propeller.html

 

If you are a hard core racer, this might not be the prop for you.  Otherwise, 
this will yield easier docking, more punch through a chop, higher RPM (good for 
the engine in many ways), higher causing speed, all while still providing 
reduced drag under sail.

 

Sorry if that sounds like a sales pitch but I was so impressed by that little 
prop that I talk it up every chance I get.

 

Just be very careful about using it without a zinc.  They tell you that if you 
go zinc less there will be no barnacle growth on the prop.  If you end up in a 
'hot' marina the prop will act as your zinc...they replaced my prop but now 
they have more detailed warranty with regards to this.

 

Good Luck,

 

Rob

88 30MKIII

Hamunam


___

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Violeta

I can't help you with your toenail, but I do have a word of caution.  I 
strongly recommend that you use two lines on your mooring ball.  There was a 
fellow at our club that only used one line at the start of the season, shortly 
after launch he had to be pulled off the rocks.  Also one of my lines failed 
this year.  I did like the way you secured the loop at the cleat.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed. 
> 
> Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the 
> vertical part. Here are some photos:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0
> 
> We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some of 
> the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in), 
> 
> Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I can't 
> find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am finding about 
> the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s: 
> 
> - the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted -- 
> is that typical?
> - the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common on 
> C&C? 
> - the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional 
> stiffness to the joint
> 
> Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or 
> could our hull/deck joint be very different?
> 
> What might happen when we remove the toe rail? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Violeta,
>> 
>> There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a C&C 
>> 43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative 
>> source as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he 
>> may respond.
>> 
>> Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it 
>> would help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW, 
>> a good surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have 
>> done a  complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail 
>> and one of my good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum 
>> toerail on his Cal 40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.
>> 
>> Good luck with your task.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
>>> On Nov 12, 2016, 
>>> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Greetings all. 
>>> 
>>> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? 
>>> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. 
>>> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that 
>>> might affect the hull/deck joint. 
>>> 
>>> Some specific questions:
>>> 
>>> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 
>>> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>>> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 
>>> 
>>> Good advice will be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Violeta
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>   
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Thanks, Bob. This is great information! I was wondering where one might
find scale drawings. I will contact the museum.

Good to hear removing the toe rail will not affect the joint structurally.
I thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Thanks for all the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
responded, so I don't send multiple emails.

Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the
reasons for replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in the
decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and
I am one of her skippers. Great boat!

I had not seen the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
poking around the website now - great resource!

We tried Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe rail. Rob
McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If
anyone can think of other possible sources for that toe rail, please let me
know.

Violeta



On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Violeta,
>
> All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the
> archives if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
> you contact the museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of
> the construction plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck
> joint. If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first
> owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings relating specifically
> to your 43.
>
> However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize
> the structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.
>
> A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
> Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
>
>
> Rob Mazza
>
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List
> Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Violeta Ivanova
> Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
> Greetings all.
>
> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973?
> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built.
> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that
> might affect the hull/deck joint.
>
> Some specific questions:
>
> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>
> Good advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Regarding wraps, the Harken halyard restrainer is not specific to Harken 
furlers, it is just a small block with a V shaped sheeve that mounts on the 
mast. I used one to good effect with a Hood 810 furler. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

 Derek McLeod via CnC-List  wrote: 
Indeed the headsail was shorter than the one it replaced and this led to the 
wrap. I had a wire pennant made up to sort that. No wraps since then. 

I'll take a look at zepherworks. 

Any line that I should look at for this? I have little knowledge in that realm. 
 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
Toronto

> On Nov 12, 2016, at 7:32 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> I switched to all rope halyards and haven't looked back.
> 
> Your sheeves at the top are probably 'V' shaped and can box the rope halyard. 
>  That is the least of your concerns.  There is a chance that they are chewed 
> up from years of service with a wire rope.  Zepherworks.com is the place to 
> go for new ones.
> 
> Additional if you had a wrap on the furler you need to find out why.  Wraps 
> usually only happen because the halyard is leading to the furler swivel at 
> too shallow of an angle.  The halyard may have been removed and re-fed 
> incorrectly.  It is also possible to have a headsail that isn't hoisted all 
> the way or has a short luff.   Even sails with too short of a luff can be 
> flown as long as they have a tack line added to allow full hoist.  Otherwise 
> the halyard angle becomes too shallow.
> 
> Occasionally I'll have a brain fart and not pull the spinnaker halyard back 
> to the mast when I'm trying to furl.  The spin halyard gets wrapped quick!
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Nov 12, 2016 7:16 PM, "Derek McLeod via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of my 
> two wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring prompting 
> me to want to replace them.
> 
> I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are 
> appropriate for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches on 
> each side. The only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I assume is 
> the line size range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a smaller dyneema 
> line, it can be bulked up in the clutch area. Any other tips or 
> considerations?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Derek McLeod
> 
> Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
> Toronto
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

It is Zephyrwerks with an "e".  Located in Pt.Townsend, WA.
It is handy to know the OD and ID and width at the hub of the sheaves you are 
planning to replace.  Also let Tom know the rope diameter you plan to use.
Replace the sheave pins (axles) if the old ones are scored or hard to remove.  
Running new sheaves on damaged or worn pins will lead to premature wear of the 
new components.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 12:21 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Indeed the headsail was shorter than the one it replaced and this led to the 
> wrap. I had a wire pennant made up to sort that. No wraps since then. 
> 
> I'll take a look at zepherworks. 
> 
> Any line that I should look at for this? I have little knowledge in that 
> realm.  
> 
> Derek McLeod 
> Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
> Toronto
> 
>> On Nov 12, 2016, at 7:32 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>> I switched to all rope halyards and haven't looked back.
>> 
>> Your sheeves at the top are probably 'V' shaped and can box the rope 
>> halyard.  That is the least of your concerns.  There is a chance that they 
>> are chewed up from years of service with a wire rope.  Zepherworks.com is 
>> the place to go for new ones.
>> 
>> Additional if you had a wrap on the furler you need to find out why.  Wraps 
>> usually only happen because the halyard is leading to the furler swivel at 
>> too shallow of an angle.  The halyard may have been removed and re-fed 
>> incorrectly.  It is also possible to have a headsail that isn't hoisted all 
>> the way or has a short luff.   Even sails with too short of a luff can be 
>> flown as long as they have a tack line added to allow full hoist.  Otherwise 
>> the halyard angle becomes too shallow.
>> 
>> Occasionally I'll have a brain fart and not pull the spinnaker halyard back 
>> to the mast when I'm trying to furl.  The spin halyard gets wrapped quick!
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> On Nov 12, 2016 7:16 PM, "Derek McLeod via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of my 
>> two wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring prompting 
>> me to want to replace them.
>> 
>> I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are 
>> appropriate for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches on 
>> each side. The only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I assume 
>> is the line size range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a smaller 
>> dyneema line, it can be bulked up in the clutch area. Any other tips or 
>> considerations?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Derek McLeod
>> 
>> Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
>> Toronto
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Indeed the headsail was shorter than the one it replaced and this led to the 
wrap. I had a wire pennant made up to sort that. No wraps since then. 

I'll take a look at zepherworks. 

Any line that I should look at for this? I have little knowledge in that realm. 
 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
Toronto

> On Nov 12, 2016, at 7:32 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> I switched to all rope halyards and haven't looked back.
> 
> Your sheeves at the top are probably 'V' shaped and can box the rope halyard. 
>  That is the least of your concerns.  There is a chance that they are chewed 
> up from years of service with a wire rope.  Zepherworks.com is the place to 
> go for new ones.
> 
> Additional if you had a wrap on the furler you need to find out why.  Wraps 
> usually only happen because the halyard is leading to the furler swivel at 
> too shallow of an angle.  The halyard may have been removed and re-fed 
> incorrectly.  It is also possible to have a headsail that isn't hoisted all 
> the way or has a short luff.   Even sails with too short of a luff can be 
> flown as long as they have a tack line added to allow full hoist.  Otherwise 
> the halyard angle becomes too shallow.
> 
> Occasionally I'll have a brain fart and not pull the spinnaker halyard back 
> to the mast when I'm trying to furl.  The spin halyard gets wrapped quick!
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Nov 12, 2016 7:16 PM, "Derek McLeod via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of my 
> two wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring prompting 
> me to want to replace them.
> 
> I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are 
> appropriate for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches on 
> each side. The only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I assume is 
> the line size range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a smaller dyneema 
> line, it can be bulked up in the clutch area. Any other tips or 
> considerations?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Derek McLeod
> 
> Aileron, 1983 C&C 29-2
> Toronto
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Richard Gonesailing via CnC-List]

Try Klacko spars they were the fabricators for C&C 
http://www.klackospars.com/

Sent from my iPad
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416-805-3020 cell 
416-231-7890 fax
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I'd rather be sailing

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The views and or opinions expressed in this e-mail are not necessarily the 
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liability for any viruses.

 

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed. 
> 
> Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the 
> vertical part. Here are some photos:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0
> 
> We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some of 
> the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in), 
> 
> Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I can't 
> find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am finding about 
> the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s: 
> 
> - the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted -- 
> is that typical?
> - the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common on 
> C&C? 
> - the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional 
> stiffness to the joint
> 
> Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or 
> could our hull/deck joint be very different?
> 
> What might happen when we remove the toe rail? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Violeta,
>> 
>> There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a C&C 
>> 43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative 
>> source as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he 
>> may respond.
>> 
>> Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it 
>> would help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW, 
>> a good surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have 
>> done a  complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail 
>> and one of my good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum 
>> toerail on his Cal 40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.
>> 
>> Good luck with your task.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
>>> On Nov 12, 2016, 
>>> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Greetings all. 
>>> 
>>> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? 
>>> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. 
>>> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that 
>>> might affect the hull/deck joint. 
>>> 
>>> Some specific questions:
>>> 
>>> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 
>>> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>>> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 
>>> 
>>> Good advice will be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Violeta
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>   
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hello Violeta,

I'm not sure what your existing toe rail is or why you are replacing it.  I
expect it is the slotted aluminum toe rail.

Have you seen this?

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/toerail/toerail.htm

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/


If you are looking for a replacement to match the original you may be able
to buy it here:

In stock...many types of C&C Toerailhundreds of feet! All pre 1998

http://www.hollandmarine.com/

http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 11:19, robertlmazza via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Violeta,
>
> All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the
> archives if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
> you contact the museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of
> the construction plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck
> joint. If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first
> owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings relating specifically
> to your 43.
>
> However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize
> the structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.
>
> A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
> Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
>
>
> Rob Mazza
>
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List
> Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Violeta Ivanova
> Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
> replacement?)
>
> Greetings all.
>
> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973?
> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built.
> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that
> might affect the hull/deck joint.
>
> Some specific questions:
>
> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>
> Good advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[robertlmazza via CnC-List]

Violeta,

All the drawings for the C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the archives if 
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If you contact the 
museum curator through the website you can order a copy  of the construction 
plan which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck joint. If you know 
which 43 you own (original name of boat or her first owner) you most can likely 
get copies of the drawings relating specifically to your 43.

However, merely removing and replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize the 
structural integrity of the hull to deck joint over that period.

A replacement rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore Yachts 
in St. Catherines, ON.


Rob Mazza


Sent from Samsung Mobile

 Original message From: Violeta Ivanova via 
CnC-List  Date:11-12-2016  2:19 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Violeta Ivanova 
 Subject: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - 
hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?) 
Greetings all. 

Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? This 
was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. We would 
like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that might affect 
the hull/deck joint. 

Some specific questions:

1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 
2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 

Good advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Violeta



  
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed.

Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the
vertical part. Here are some photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0

We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some
of the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in),

Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I
can't find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am
finding about the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s:

- the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted --
is that typical?
- the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common
on C&C?
- the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional
stiffness to the joint

Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or
could our hull/deck joint be very different?

What might happen when we remove the toe rail?

Thanks,

Violeta


On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Violeta,
>
> There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a
> C&C 43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative
> source as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he
> may respond.
>
> Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it
> would help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW,
> a good surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have
> done a  complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail
> and one of my good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum
> toerail on his Cal 40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.
>
> Good luck with your task.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Nov 12, 2016,
>
> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Greetings all.
>
> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973?
> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built.
> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that
> might affect the hull/deck joint.
>
> Some specific questions:
>
> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?
>
> Good advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Northern Light 2016

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Thanks Chris, I enjoyed that.

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 01:01, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chris, the video is awesome! Thank you for sharing...the boat looks
> pretty darn good too!
>
>
> Richard
> S/C Bushmark4, C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Christian Tirtirau 
> Sent: Sat, Nov 12, 2016 6:51 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Northern Light 2016
>
> For those tired and depressed after the US elections, here’s a little
> compilation of Northern Light’s cruise in Nova Scotia this past summer.
> Hope you enjoy!
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdLvouJqUtQ
>
> Chris
> C&C 37 Northern Light
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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