Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I used it to fill dimple-like mini-blisters (lots of them) on the bottom of my 
Ranger 26 a long time ago.  Worked great – no issues underwater for several 
years.  I’ve been using it ever since.  Measuring the two parts if you’re not 
using an entire box is a bit of a pain, but I remain a big fan.  

From: Gerry Beltgens via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 12:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gerry Beltgens 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

Hey Derek - that is a handy tip. I am going through the same process on my C&C 
29-1. I look forward to doing that with my next hole repair when I move some 
cleats.
BTW - I am using Marine-Tex epoxy putty for filling holes and divots and it 
works good so far. Anybody have any long term experience with it?

Gerry Beltgens
1977 C&C 29-1, Blue Moon
Ladysmith BC

Cheers,
Gerry

Gerry Beltgens
Direct: 250-739-3887 (cell)

Office: 250-924-4808


Email: gbeltg...@gmail.com

http://vanislerealestate.ca/


Professional Realtor at
PEMBERTON HOLMES LTD


On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hi,

  I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on Paul 
Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son.

  I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat lid 
to pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws.

  I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk afterwards 
and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with 
colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with one corner snipped 
off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the ziploc, much like squeezing 
icing or batter or something. It worked very well, filling the holes 
effectively even when dealing with horizontal holes. I'm aware that there are 
syringes that could do the same thing, but found this was pretty 
straightforward without anything special to run out and buy.

  Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.

  Derek McLeod
  1983 C&C 29-2, Aileron
  Toronto
  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





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Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Gerry Beltgens via CnC-List]

Hey Derek - that is a handy tip. I am going through the same process on my
C&C 29-1. I look forward to doing that with my next hole repair when I move
some cleats.
BTW - I am using Marine-Tex epoxy putty for filling holes and divots and it
works good so far. Anybody have any long term experience with it?

Gerry Beltgens
1977 C&C 29-1, Blue Moon
Ladysmith BC

Cheers,
Gerry

Gerry Beltgens

Direct: 250-739-3887 (cell)

Office: 250-924-4808

Email: gbeltg...@gmail.com

*http://vanislerealestate.ca/ *
Professional Realtor at
PEMBERTON HOLMES LTD

On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on
> Paul Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son.
>
> I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat
> lid to pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws.
>
> I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk
> afterwards and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy
> thickened with colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with
> one corner snipped off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the
> ziploc, much like squeezing icing or batter or something. It worked very
> well, filling the holes effectively even when dealing with horizontal
> holes. I'm aware that there are syringes that could do the same thing, but
> found this was pretty straightforward without anything special to run out
> and buy.
>
> Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.
>
> Derek McLeod
> 1983 C&C 29-2, Aileron
> Toronto
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Hand Starting Handle

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Another approach, if the front pulley is accessible, is to put a deep 
socket on the nut holding the pulley to the crankshaft, then use  a 
socket wrench or a breaker bar to rotate the engine.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/20/2017 6:17 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:


Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 
3qm30 so I may adjust my valves when the head goes back on.  Tried the 
net to no avail.  Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around 
for purchase (or short-term lease)?



Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Hand Starting Handle

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You don't need it.  You can roll the engine by hand easily enough.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 20, 2017 3:18 PM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so
I may adjust my valves when the head goes back on.  Tried the net to no
avail.  Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around for purchase (or
short-term lease)?


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Chuck, Jake, et al: I have just done the same conversion, switching from an 
old Sea Frost unit which ran off the engine. The new unit is a Norcold 
Norcolder 4408 Series, with the L-shaped plate (purchased from Defender).   It 
works well and is much smaller than the Sea Frost. Like Jake's it lives in the 
locker on a shelf;one issue we faced was the venting...I wasn't thrilled with 
putting vents in the side of the footwell or out on the coaming, so, after some 
thought, we came up with putting ins a coaming box, and installed the vents on 
each end of the box and on the "top" (upper portion of the box), giving plenty 
of ventilation and adding a place to put winch handles.   I'll be happy to send 
photos offline. If anyone wants one, just let me know.   

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Thu, Apr 20, 2017 8:31 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...



Chuck,
 
I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago.  It is air 
cooled and works well here in Virginia.  It was not a difficult project.  
Tedious, but not difficult.  The compressor and coils reside in the port 
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull.  I can send you pics 
off-list, if necessary.  I lost very little space in the lazarette.
 
It was one of the best improvements to my boat that I have made.   Cold beer, 
all the time!
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA

 
 



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Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on Paul 
Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son. 

I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat lid to 
pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws. 

I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk afterwards 
and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with 
colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with one corner snipped 
off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the ziploc, much like squeezing 
icing or batter or something. It worked very well, filling the holes 
effectively even when dealing with horizontal holes. I'm aware that there are 
syringes that could do the same thing, but found this was pretty 
straightforward without anything special to run out and buy. 

Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.  

Derek McLeod 
1983 C&C 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Ditto.

From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 8:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

Chuck,

 

I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago.  It is air 
cooled and works well here in Virginia.  It was not a difficult project.  
Tedious, but not difficult.  The compressor and coils reside in the port 
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull.  I can send you pics 
off-list, if necessary.  I lost very little space in the lazarette.

 

It was one of the best improvements to my boat that I have made.   Cold beer, 
all the time!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

  I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.  

   

  I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has 
recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled, 
except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other 
considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for 
cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would 
really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.  Thanks...


   

   

  Chuck Saur

  C&C 35-3 (1985)

  Morning Sky

   

  (517)-490-5926




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Gene,

 

The original washers on my boat were not very substantial.  They did flex and 
bend.   After my keel R&R, I have new washers that are much more substantial 
now.  Actually, my new washers also have backing plates that spread the load 
out much better.   I highly recommend them.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 14:35
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Eugene Fodor 
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

 

Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not overtightening my 
keel bolts on my C&C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend using a torque wrench 
and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and about 70 ft lbs for the the 
1/2 inch; both of which are below the values listed on the torque specs. I 
noticed that the washers were becoming deformed (is that normal?). I don't want 
to overtighten and crush the hull or deform the keel.

 

Thanks,

 

Gene

"Hawk" 

C&C 29-2

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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago.  It is air 
cooled and works well here in Virginia.  It was not a difficult project.  
Tedious, but not difficult.  The compressor and coils reside in the port 
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull.  I can send you pics 
off-list, if necessary.  I lost very little space in the lazarette.

 

It was one of the best improvements to my boat that I have made.   Cold beer, 
all the time!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.  

 

I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has 
recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled, 
except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other 
considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for 
cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would 
really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.  Thanks...


 

 

Chuck Saur

C&C 35-3 (1985)

Morning Sky

 

(517)-490-5926

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Hand Starting Handle

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

It should be easy enough to get one made, Dave.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Apr 20, 2017, at 18:17, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so I 
> may adjust my valves when the head goes back on.  Tried the net to no avail.  
> Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around for purchase (or 
> short-term lease)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Yanmar Hand Starting Handle

[David via CnC-List]

Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so I 
may adjust my valves when the head goes back on.  Tried the net to no avail.  
Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around for purchase (or short-term 
lease)?


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So that means the base is likely soft.  I ended up re-glassing area around the 
two forward  bolts and adding a larger ¼” aluminum plate to provide larger 
surface so I can get to required torque.  You can see the backing plate in this 
photo.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/members/1842-albums4681-picture26184.html

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Eugene Fodor
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

 

Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not overtightening my 
keel bolts on my C&C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend using a torque wrench 
and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and about 70 ft lbs for the the 
1/2 inch; both of which are below the values listed on the torque specs. I 
noticed that the washers were becoming deformed (is that normal?). I don't want 
to overtighten and crush the hull or deform the keel.

 

Thanks,

 

Gene

"Hawk" 

C&C 29-2

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Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not
overtightening my keel bolts on my C&C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend
using a torque wrench and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and
about 70 ft lbs for the the 1/2 inch; both of which are below the values
listed on the torque specs. I noticed that the washers were becoming
deformed (is that normal?). I don't want to overtighten and crush the hull
or deform the keel.

Thanks,

Gene
"Hawk"
C&C 29-2
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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for the helpful replies.  I do have a rigid vang supporting the boom, so 
that is not a problem.  Once the sail is down and we are on the mooring, I also 
carry the main halyard aft and attach it to where the topping lift used to 
attach.  From your inputs so far, it sounds like 4 lines is overkill. When 
aboard overnight, I leave the lazy jacks attached to the boom, so they don’t 
make noise knocking against the mast, and because they are not supporting the 
boom (rigid vang + main halyard as a topping lift), I plan to leave them 
attached to the boom.  

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> I would advise against using the lazy jacks for supporting the boom. A 
> topping lift or a rigid vang is much better for that.
> 
> You have to put together enough vertical lines, so that the sail will not 
> droop between them. This depends on the sail cloth, battens and obviously, 
> the length of the boom. 
> 
> The boom on my boat is over 11 ft. and I found that 2 lines wasn't enough 
> (even with a pretty stiff sail cloth and full battens); I modified it to 
> three lines. The lines are spread, generally, evenly along the boom. You may 
> want to have shorter distances closer to the mast (more sailcloth to catch). 
> I did attach the top lines to the spreaders about 15 cm from the mast (far 
> enough to leave some opening, close enough that the leverage is not too 
> much). I don't have any problems with the battens catching on the lazy jacks 
> - I loosen them before hoisting the sail and I make sure that I am right up 
> wind when I do so.
> 
> If you want to fiddle a bit with the arrangement, try to come up with a 
> system where you can take all the lines all the way to the mast. Even one 
> side would help a lot. There are numerous ways of doing it. I was about to 
> implement one of those ideas, but I found that I never have problems with 
> battens catching so there was no point in complicating what was working fine 
> already.
> 
> I have a Boomkicker, so there is no issue of supporting the boom with the 
> jacks (though when I installed them initially, I had a topping lift).
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Marek
> 
> 1994 C270 "Legato"
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 22:28
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Steve Thomas mailto:sthom...@bellnet.ca>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice
> 
> Lazy jacks can supplement or replace the function of the topping lift, and if 
> you have any inclination to use them in that fashion then Dave's comment 
> requires careful consideration. The main sheet can put on quite a load. 
> 
> As for the total number of lines to the boom, remember that the purpose is to 
> stop the sail from falling to the deck. All else being equal, more is better, 
> but the number of lines included in kits for a given boom length from the 
> major manufacturers is a good place to start. I have a Harken 2 line kit on 
> my 27, and find it adequate, but I also have full battens in the main sail 
> which helps a lot. 
> 
> On the subject of battens, separate from questions surrounding lazy jacks, 
> properly adjusted full battens can maintain a good aerofoil shape in 
> extremely light air. It is a wonder how the boat will  ghost along sometimes. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  David Kaseler via CnC-List  > wrote: 
> I'm no expert as I have no lazy jacks and have never used them but my concern 
> would be the potential of putting extra stress on the spreaders causing them 
> to become misaligned. 
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY, 1975 C&C 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List WESTERBEKE VS ATOMIC HEAT EXCHANGER

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You need another pump, usually driven off flywheel.  I have some spare A4
FWC stuff if he is interested.  

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in barrington



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List WESTERBEKE VS ATOMIC HEAT EXCHANGER

Hi guys, just surfacing again, trying to do a buddy a favour

I have a surplus WESTERBEKE 4-60 engine which was pulled from my boat to
accommodate my electric drive.  My buddy has an ATOMIC 4 with raw water
cooling and wants to know if you can install the WESTERBEKE heat exchanger
onto the ATOMIC 4 engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: April-19-17 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 77

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Stuffing box restuffing (Michael Brown)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 10:38:15 -0400
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box restuffing
Message-ID: <2258822645-30...@mail.tkg.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

When I did the 7/8" shaft and Algonquin stuffing box on Windburn this is
what I used.

18 ? DUR-UX0313-01 ? ? ? PACKING ULTRA-X 5/16" ? ? SOLD BY$0.46 ? ? $8.28? 

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/packing-ultra-x--inch-or-pound--429
50.html

?  
I tool less than 9", but ordered 18" to have some spare.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1




Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 03:32:40 + (UTC)
From: gerald field  

 
I am looking for information on the size of stuffing packing needed on my
C&C 30 any information will be welcomeRegards Gerald Field
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Stus-List WESTERBEKE VS ATOMIC HEAT EXCHANGER

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Hi guys, just surfacing again, trying to do a buddy a favour

I have a surplus WESTERBEKE 4-60 engine which was pulled from my boat to 
accommodate my electric drive.  My buddy has an ATOMIC 4 with raw water cooling 
and wants to know if you can install the WESTERBEKE heat exchanger onto the 
ATOMIC 4 engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Stuffing box restuffing (Michael Brown)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 10:38:15 -0400
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box restuffing
Message-ID: <2258822645-30...@mail.tkg.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

When I did the 7/8" shaft and Algonquin stuffing box on Windburn this is what I 
used.

18 ? DUR-UX0313-01 ? ? ? PACKING ULTRA-X 5/16" ? ? SOLD BY$0.46 ? ? $8.28? 

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/packing-ultra-x--inch-or-pound--42950.html

?  
I tool less than 9", but ordered 18" to have some spare.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1




Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 03:32:40 + (UTC)
From: gerald field  

 
I am looking for information on the size of stuffing packing needed on my C&C 
30 any information will be welcomeRegards Gerald Field
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Stus-List wiring problems- Help!

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am working on a rewiring project for my Universal M4-30 and ran into some 
questions I am hoping someone can help clarify.  

1.  I took the alternator off last fall to have it checked (it was fine).  My 
pictures and recollection is that I disconnected two wires from the back- heavy 
orange from the + and white with red stripe from the AC tap. I was starting to 
put things back together the other day and found two wires with small ring 
terminals and I can’t figure out if they were not connected to anything, or if 
I screwed up in my notes as to what I did.  One is purple and runs to the rear 
of the boat (start panel I presume but have not yet confirmed).  From the 
wiring diagram, this appears to be fuel pump so should be connected to the Exc 
terminal of the alternator The other is  orange/red and is short and connected 
to the starter and would seem to be the Sense wire from the alternator in the 
diagram.  This would make sense from the writing diagram, but I have no 
indication of disconnecting them from the alternator, so I want to make sure 
there is no reason these would have been disconnected.  What do these wires 
wire do?

2.  When I removed the bolt on the starter last weekend I found 4 wires already 
connected to the bolt and the wiring manual only shows 2 
(http://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?file=manuals11/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdf&title=Universal+Diesel++M4+30+Operator%27s+Manual).
They are going to be challenging to trace:
a.  Heavy and reddish/orange going to rotary battery switch. This is 
power to the starter and the one I expected to find.
b.  Black (about 1G) and runs into a fuse holder and then goes rearward?
c.   red/Orange (about 14G) running to rear? I think this is the one to 
the ammeter that I expected to find- that ends up at the battery for charging 
and will be removed as I am wiring alternator + directly to battery.
d.  Smaller (16g?) orange running to rear?
Any guesses as to what these extra wires on the starter bolt might be? 
If I understand the switch wiring, that position will be hot all the time and 
the other starter  input will activate the solenoid when you press the start 
switch.  So you could use that bolt as a connection point for something in the 
rear you wanted to power, but why would you do that rather than using the 
electrical panel which is set up to handle it?  

3.  Trying to install the new battery switch, I found that the existing switch 
has 1/4” terminals and the new one is 3/8” so none of the wires are going to 
fit without replacing the terminals.  On the smaller wires, I can easily do 
that with the crimper I have, but the heavy battery cables are another matter. 
I have two choices:
a.  Buy new cables with the right ring terminals, pull up the flooring 
to get the the path and run new cables from the battery.
b.  Cut the ends off the existing cables (how do you do that?), buy a 
Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper and new lugs and crimp them on.  
I am sure that either is going to be a PITA with unexpected difficulties (as 
this entire project has been- what else is new),  but I wonder if someone has 
enough experience to suggest that one choice is going to be easier than the 
other in terms of the things I am not expecting.  I have not yet pulled the 
flooring out, so don’t know how hard that will be and how hard it is going to 
be to get to the cable path.  I also don’t know how easy removing the old lugs 
and replacing will be.  Suggestions?  Thanks as always.  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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