Re: Stus-List Prop question

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Matthew, 

I had a similar problem this spring - had to pull my prop, a fixed two-blade, 
to replace it with a new Gori folding prop. I think the old prop had been on 
there about 22 years. 

I got it off with a 6" two-jaw puller from Harbor Freight. First I tried with a 
three-jaw 8" puller but it didn't fit well enough around the blades to stay on, 
so I had to drop back to a two-jaw. The 6" one came in a set of three (with two 
smaller ones) for $28. After pulling the prop off, I simply returned the entire 
set for a refund :) I would have kept the 8" three-jaw one if it had worked; it 
was only $18 and seemed like a useful thing to have around. Since you're just 
dealing with a hub, folding blades removed, I'd suggest a three-jaw puller. 

One thing: go to a hardware store and get a long spacer nut to screw on to the 
end of your prop shaft, so that the puller screw is pushing on the end of the 
spacer nut, not the end of your prop shaft. The more threads of spacer nut you 
can get on the shaft, the better IMO. When I pulled my prop this spring, the 
puller screw was bearing on the end of the prop shaft some, and it bent the tip 
of the prop shaft off-center a few degrees. Scared the crap out of me; I 
thought I was in for a prop shaft replacement job. But I was able to get the 
Gori on there and I think the Gori hub and nut may have straightened the shaft 
tip back out a bit, the way they install. I've motored about a half-dozen times 
now and can't discern any vibration or anything - the new prop works great in 
forward and reverse and under sail. So just be careful about that. 

Before putting a puller on it, I tried some other things like heat, and running 
melted candle wax into the keyhole. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 12:08:04 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Prop question 

Listers: 
I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to remove a 
40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft? The blades are off and the 
inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging. Please advise. Thanks. 
Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
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Re: Stus-List Angled Prop Shaft

[RANDY via CnC-List]

It's to allow you to pull the prop shaft without having to drop the rudder. My 
C 30 MK I has the same design. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Richard Gotthardt"  
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 7:01:36 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Angled Prop Shaft 

I was looking at a 1981 34 today and noticed that the prop shaft was slightly 
angled off the center line towards the port side. Is that by design to 
counteract prop walk? 

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Re: Stus-List Angled Prop Shaft

[David Castor via CnC-List]

Sounds like a Sabre.
Reason depends on who you ask.   For right hand prop, the offset to port
will reduce prop walk in reverse.


On Sun, May 7, 2017 at 9:02 PM Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was looking at a 1981 34 today and noticed that the prop shaft was
> slightly angled off the center line towards the port side. Is that by
> design to counteract prop walk?
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
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Stus-List Angled Prop Shaft

[Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List]

I was looking at a 1981 34 today and noticed that the prop shaft was
slightly angled off the center line towards the port side. Is that by
design to counteract prop walk?
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Re: Stus-List Prop "treatment"

[robert via CnC-List]

He may have sprayed the prop with a zinc based paint.my brother does 
it on his boat and it seems to work.he offered the paint to me this 
Spring but I launched before I got a chance to paint the prop.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-07 4:28 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have struggled with how to deal with my prop and have tried a number 
of suggested solutions over the years. None have been totally 
satisfying in terms of keeping it clean for the season. Propspeed last 
year was the best so far.  I was sanding yesterday and the guy with 
the boat next to me looks over and says he has some advice.  He said 
that many years ago, he sanded his prop clean and put the boat in the 
water with no further treatment.  He has not touched it in the years 
since and claims he never gets barnacles.  The prop now has a very 
rough texture to the metal and looks nothing like brass.  It looks 
like it is coated with something and I have never seen anything like 
it.  Anyone know what is going on?  Dave



Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sometimes the application of some heat helps the prop let go.  Put a wet rag
over the cutlass bearing, otherwise it will get roasted.  A small propane
torch usually doesn't generate enough heat, but is worth a try.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 14:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Prop question

 

Listers:

 

I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to
remove a 40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The blades are off
and the inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging.  Please
advise.  Thanks.

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
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recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
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you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
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Re: Stus-List Prop "treatment"

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

David,

 

I don't use any treatment on my prop either.  I clean the boat about every
two weeks.  The prop has stayed clean so far this year, but I know that
barnacles will be attaching to it soon.  They do every year.  I keep after
them with a putty knife and scotchbrite pad.  As long as I keep it clean,
the work is easy.  If I wait more than three weeks, I have major barnacle
growth.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 15:29
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Prop "treatment"

 

I have struggled with how to deal with my prop and have tried a number of
suggested solutions over the years. None have been totally satisfying in
terms of keeping it clean for the season. Propspeed last year was the best
so far.  I was sanding yesterday and the guy with the boat next to me looks
over and says he has some advice.  He said that many years ago, he sanded
his prop clean and put the boat in the water with no further treatment.  He
has not touched it in the years since and claims he never gets barnacles.
The prop now has a very rough texture to the metal and looks nothing like
brass.  It looks like it is coated with something and I have never seen
anything like it.  Anyone know what is going on?  Dave

 

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The way to avoid the hub coming off when you get the BANG (and you will get 
one) is to back off the retaining nut on the end of the shaft but do not 
completely remove it. When the hub comes free of the taper on the shaft, it can 
only move part of an inch before the nut stops the motion.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2017 5:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop question

 

Matt,
  Google "gear puller".. you will see pictures of what you are needing..Tractor 
Supply, Home Depot, various retailers sell.  Simple..Do it over something like 
grass because sometimes comes off with a BANG when finally comes free..
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

  _  

On Sunday, May 7, 2017 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List  > wrote:

Listers:

 

I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to remove a 
40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The blades are off and the 
inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging.  Please advise.  Thanks.

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This 
communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, 
or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under 
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, 
you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, and 
that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance 
upon this communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was 
sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you 
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Please consider the environment before printing this note.

___

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Dodger

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi David,

You are correct, it does not provide complete protection for the helmsman.
And it can't be used with the main up and sheeted anywhere close to
centerline, or for tacking or jibing.

It is pretty good in the rain in most cases, and if it really starts to
pour Auto-Helm takes over for a bit.

Ken H.

On 7 May 2017 at 09:42, David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> With regard to Ken’s pictures- My 34+ also came with a dodger that works
> well, but the zip on bimini I find pretty useless.  It doesn’t have a tube
> frame and attaches to the backstay similar to Ken's and as a result of the
> angles it doesn’t go very far aft, and so does not cover the helmsman
> sitting on the helm seat completely.  If it is raining, you are not out of
> the rain.  Does your cover adequately?  The advantage of the frame
> supported biminis is that they can extend farther over the transom. Dave
>
> On May 6, 2017, at 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yep I got one too.  Lots of things to take into consideration.  The inside
> track, winch handle swing radius, standing height on the stairs  There
> are lots of answers but none are perfect.  If you don't give up the inside
> track then in order to provide head room the whole thing looks oddly tall
> and narrow particularly when viewed from the bow or stern.
>
> I can set pictures or provide more insights if desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On May 6, 2017 11:24 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> When I bought Kaylarah, she didn't have a dodger and I always planned to
>> add one.  Now that I consider it more carefully, I'm not sure it's
>> possible.  The bridge deck is so high and the boom so low, that you would
>> have to crawl into the cabin on you hands and knees to get in.  Am I
>> missing something?  Has anyone put a dodger on a 37+?
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List 1976 38 Anchor Roller

[Joe Scott via CnC-List]

Hey All,

I need to mount a roller on the bow of our 1976 38.  I know a lot have done 
this, does anyone have any picture they can share?  I’m looking for guidance on 
what I am going to need to do to attach it.

Thanks,

Joe
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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave, 

Two years ago I found led bulb that were sold as replacements for the 
aquasignal 25. They were about the same price as a complete Victory fixture. 
The lenses of the existing aqua signal were still clear so I went for the led 
bulbs. After one season only, at least one side on the "tree sided bulb" were 
not working and they show sign of water ingress and corrosion .I did not had 
kept my receipt...

I will replace them with aquasignal 40 that I found with a good price. The hole 
pattern is different, I will have to drill one hole but they have a smaller 
footprint so they fit.  With the improve aero dynamic I should maybe gain 0.001 
knot.

Last year I replaced the stern light with a 40, and it is very efficient. But 
the look is not as "classic".

Bruno
Becassine, 1987 33 mkII 
New Richmond, Qc.



Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 7 mai 2017 à 13:32, Dave via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Thanks Derek - will be interested in your opinion - iirc there was a line of 
> lights that uses standard twin lead electronics-type leds as a light source - 
> might be those.  Wasn't thinking about this project when I saw them (it was 
> at Nat's in Pickering I think).  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 7, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Derek McLeod  wrote:
>> 
>> I ordered a set of Victory LED lights from Boulet Lemelin Yacht in Quebec 
>> and it appears they will fit the existing holes in the stainless brackets. I 
>> am also replacing Aqua Signal 25's. I can't really speak to the quality of 
>> them yet as they are not installed but they were very reasonably priced. I 
>> figure the UV exposure is going to take a toll on whatever product is 
>> installed. 
>> 
>> Derek McLeod 
>> 1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
>> Toronto
>> 
>>> On May 7, 2017, at 6:59 AM, Dave S  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and 
>>> stern.  
>>> 
>>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>>> not my first choice. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Matt,
  Google "gear puller".. you will see pictures of what you are needing..Tractor 
Supply, Home Depot, various retailers sell.  Simple..Do it over something like 
grass because sometimes comes off with a BANG when finally comes free..
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, May 7, 2017 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers:

 

    I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to remove a 
40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The blades are off and the 
inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging.  Please advise.  Thanks.

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This 
communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, 
or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under 
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you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, and 
that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance 
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sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you 
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Please consider the environment before printing this note.

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___

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Stus-List Prop "treatment"

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I have had similar problems accompanied by slower speed and even overheating 
issues when the buildup gets too much before I had her hauled last year.

I am working toward a wetsuit/hookah set up to dive the boat periodically to 
clean the prop and shaft.

When she was hauled last July I cleaned the Maxprop and shaft and than applied 
the Petit spray paint product for transducers and props.  

I got a look at the prop at the end of the season via a friend's GoPro and it 
was still clean.  No idea what it's like now, but I had get out a few weeks ago 
and the speed was about the same as at the end of the season.  So, that's 
promising.

As for your mystery, no idea.

Tom B

Typoed from my iPhone

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - thombusc



> On May 7, 2017, at 12:38 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 7 May 2017 15:28:48 -0400
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Subject: Stus-List Prop "treatment"
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have struggled with how to deal with my prop and have tried a number of 
> suggested solutions over the years. None have been totally satisfying in 
> terms of keeping it clean for the season. Propspeed last year was the best so 
> far.  I was sanding yesterday and the guy with the boat next to me looks over 
> and says he has some advice.  He said that many years ago, he sanded his prop 
> clean and put the boat in the water with no further treatment.  He has not 
> touched it in the years since and claims he never gets barnacles.  The prop 
> now has a very rough texture to the metal and looks nothing like brass.  It 
> looks like it is coated with something and I have never seen anything like 
> it.  Anyone know what is going on?  Dave
> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Try it using a wheel puller, if that doesn't work, tighten it up as much as you 
can, and hammer on the end of the (wheel puller) screw.


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
Date: 5/7/17  14:08  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Subject: Stus-List Prop question 




Listers:
 
    I assume this has been covered before, but what is the 
best way to remove a 40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The 
blades are off and the inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not 
budging.  Please advise.  Thanks.
 
 
Matthew L. 
Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 

(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information 
contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended for the personal 
and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This communication may be 
an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, or otherwise 
privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under applicable law. If 
you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, you are hereby 
notified that you have received this communication in error, and that any 
review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance upon this 
communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was sent to you 
in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you received the note 
in error and delete it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before 
printing this note.___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Prop "treatment"

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have struggled with how to deal with my prop and have tried a number of 
suggested solutions over the years. None have been totally satisfying in terms 
of keeping it clean for the season. Propspeed last year was the best so far.  I 
was sanding yesterday and the guy with the boat next to me looks over and says 
he has some advice.  He said that many years ago, he sanded his prop clean and 
put the boat in the water with no further treatment.  He has not touched it in 
the years since and claims he never gets barnacles.  The prop now has a very 
rough texture to the metal and looks nothing like brass.  It looks like it is 
coated with something and I have never seen anything like it.  Anyone know what 
is going on?  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List 12V Step-Down Transformers

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

you are looking for "DC to DC converters" (transformers for AC).  Not all 
copiers are Xerox

Leslie.


On Fri, 5/5/17, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 12V Step-Down Transformers
 To: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Friday, May 5, 2017, 12:45 PM
 
 Listers,
 I’m looking to power some
 battery-operated items off the boat’s power and looking
 for a good source of step-down transformers to go from 12V
 to 4.5, 6, 3, 9, etc. DC. Can anyone recommend a good
 source? 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
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Stus-List Prop question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to remove a 
40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The blades are off and the 
inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging.  Please advise.  Thanks.


Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Derek - will be interested in your opinion - iirc there was a line of 
lights that uses standard twin lead electronics-type leds as a light source - 
might be those.  Wasn't thinking about this project when I saw them (it was at 
Nat's in Pickering I think).  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Derek McLeod  wrote:
> 
> I ordered a set of Victory LED lights from Boulet Lemelin Yacht in Quebec and 
> it appears they will fit the existing holes in the stainless brackets. I am 
> also replacing Aqua Signal 25's. I can't really speak to the quality of them 
> yet as they are not installed but they were very reasonably priced. I figure 
> the UV exposure is going to take a toll on whatever product is installed. 
> 
> Derek McLeod 
> 1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
> Toronto
> 
>> On May 7, 2017, at 6:59 AM, Dave S  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and stern. 
>>  
>> 
>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>> not my first choice. 
>> 
>> 
>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Dave!  I replaced all of my Nav lights because the lens was almost 
completely clouded and the lamp clips kept on corroding.  I went with Hella 
NavLED Pro replacement fixtures.  They were slightly larger than the old 
fixtures.  I probably could have just attached them as is, but, I had some 18 
ga SS cut to fit the back of each fixture.  The light is completely sealed, so, 
no spiders or water will enter.  The lenz is crystal clear after 5 years and 
they are quite bright...I think that they are certified for 3 mn viewing 
distance.  Installation of all 3 was pretty straightforward.  I did drill and 
tap new mounting screw holes for them.  I am VERY pleased with them.


Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Winters in Waukegan, IL
Summers in Racine, WI

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Dave via CnC-List]

It's a good question josh,  and changing the bulb is my second choice.  

 One reason is that a purpose built led fixture is typically more efficient.  
You can orient the sources in the correct direction.  This is compromised in 
traditional light sources (or led lamps which mimic same) where optics and 
reflectors are required to re distribute the light and improve efficiency.  
(Ok, I'm in the lighting biz)
Another reason is that my existing lights' lenses are crazed and the wire is 
crumbling  - so, im into minor project anyway.
Third, I want a sealed, hard wired fixture.  I don't know if the led bulb will 
suffer from corrosion issues, but  it will be installed and ignored for much 
longer than the standard festoon bulb. 
Last reason is 'cuz I'm 53 years old, and I can.  :-). The work on the boat has 
been done to a high standard, which is a pleasure in itself.

All that said, the retrofit lamp is choice 2.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2017, at 10:01 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Why isn't changing the bulb a first choice?  Marinebeam has the bulbs.  I've 
> bought them.  They work great.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On May 7, 2017 7:00 AM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and stern. 
>>  
>> 
>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>> not my first choice. 
>> 
>> 
>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

I ordered a set of Victory LED lights from Boulet Lemelin Yacht in Quebec and 
it appears they will fit the existing holes in the stainless brackets. I am 
also replacing Aqua Signal 25's. I can't really speak to the quality of them 
yet as they are not installed but they were very reasonably priced. I figure 
the UV exposure is going to take a toll on whatever product is installed. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto

> On May 7, 2017, at 6:59 AM, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) running 
> lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and stern.  
> 
> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
> not my first choice. 
> 
> 
> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
> 
> Dave
> 
> 

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Stus-List Bottom stripping

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone.  I  wasn't sure.   I have to say it is definitely a job I will 
hire out next time

Adam

Get Outlook for Android

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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi All,I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and the 
coil, 10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect was at the 
hose clamps.  So, I think I'm good to go.  I already bought new elements, one 
as a spare.  I'm going to replace the engine side hose with heater hose.  I 
looked into the clear silicone but, I'm not sold on it for the price.  Is there 
any particular brand hose I should be looking at or is the stuff you an get at 
the autoparts store what I should use. I could pick that up now and have this 
wrapped up today. Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:07:59 -0400


Danny, That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 180 
degree water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was cheaper 
than 15 feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest. Yes, I'd 
hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely bypassed it for a 
reason. Joel
Virus-free. www.avg.com
On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello all,
 
 Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
 
 There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.
 
 I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
refused to return my call.
 
 My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?
 
 Here is a pic at survey.
 
 https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
 
 You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
 
 Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
 
 Danny
 Mattapoisett, Ma
 
 
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 -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Why isn't changing the bulb a first choice?  Marinebeam has the bulbs.
I've bought them.  They work great.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 7, 2017 7:00 AM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast,
> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series)
> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and
> stern.
>
> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or
> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but
> not my first choice.
>
>
> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct
> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Dodger

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

With regard to Ken’s pictures- My 34+ also came with a dodger that works well, 
but the zip on bimini I find pretty useless.  It doesn’t have a tube frame and 
attaches to the backstay similar to Ken's and as a result of the angles it 
doesn’t go very far aft, and so does not cover the helmsman sitting on the helm 
seat completely.  If it is raining, you are not out of the rain.  Does your 
cover adequately?  The advantage of the frame supported biminis is that they 
can extend farther over the transom. Dave

> On May 6, 2017, at 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yep I got one too.  Lots of things to take into consideration.  The inside 
> track, winch handle swing radius, standing height on the stairs  There 
> are lots of answers but none are perfect.  If you don't give up the inside 
> track then in order to provide head room the whole thing looks oddly tall and 
> narrow particularly when viewed from the bow or stern.
> 
> I can set pictures or provide more insights if desired. 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On May 6, 2017 11:24 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> When I bought Kaylarah, she didn't have a dodger and I always planned to add 
> one.  Now that I consider it more carefully, I'm not sure it's possible.  The 
> bridge deck is so high and the boom so low, that you would have to crawl into 
> the cabin on you hands and knees to get in.  Am I missing something?  Has 
> anyone put a dodger on a 37+?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Electrical help please

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the help everyone. Finally got around to checking it all again.
Got it fixed.
The positive and negative wires that the fan came with we're both white.
I'm guessing for cosmetics. Somehow I wired them backwards when connecting
it to the fan itself. So I had a negative charge on the multimeter.
Switched them around and it turned on.
That's the first time I've ever done that. Can't believe it either.

Thanks again,

Kevin

On Sun, Apr 30, 2017, 2:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You mentioned that you are not an electrical expert so I apologize if this
> line of questions and comments seem condescending.  It's not intentional.
> Where are you hooking up the ground or black wire?  There should be a
> ground bus near-ish to the breakers.  That's your negative.  All of the
> other Black (or yellow) wires will be tying into this bus bar and a thick
> black wire will be attached which leads to the battery negative terminal.
>
> Each breaker will probably have one side which is tied to all the other
> breakers.  Sometimes this is a solid copper bar connecting between them.
> At the end of the copper bar you'll have a thick red wire which leads to
> the battery positive terminal.  In the same way you directly connected the
> fan to the battery you should be able to directly connect the fan to the
> red bus and the black bus.  If that doesn't work then you have bigger
> problems and you'll likely find that none of your loads work
>
> Perminently attach the black wire for your fan to the black bus with the
> correct ring terminal - crimped tightly.  Now on the breaker, attach the
> red wire to the terminal opposite of the red bus with and properly crimped
> and insulated ring terminal.  Ensure that the breaker is on.  The fan
> should work.  If not then your breaker may be bad.  Flip the breaker a
> couple of times and ensure that it is fully engaged.  One way will spring
> open/off the other way will latch closed/on.
>
> If that doesn't work then it is sounding more and more like your breaker
> is bad.  Try a different breaker or test for voltage between the output
> terminal and the ground/black bus.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2017 10:56 AM, "Kevin Paxton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm trying to install some cabin fans. (
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/caframo--sirocco-cabin-fans--P012_361_002_507
> ).
> Amperage High: 0.31 Amps
> Medium: 0.24 Amps
> Low: 0.14 Amps
>
> I wired it all up yesterday to my breaker panel and when trying to turn it
> on, nothing happened. I then took it off the wall and connected it directly
> to the battery, and it worked just fine. I then tried to connect to
> directly to the feed line of the breaker panel and it didn't work.
>
> I'm not an electrical expert but I would think connecting it the way I did
> to the breaker panel would not have a large voltage drop. I was using 16awg
> from the breaker to the mounting location. I might be a little low on the
> gauge of wire for that length I admit. That was my first guess. But
> connecting to the panel line feed directly still didn't do anything and
> that baffled me.
>
> Any ideas on what could be going wrong? The batteries are new last year.
> My battery meter was saying approx 70% charge capacity when doing all of
> this. The cabin lights and other electronics were working while I was
> trying to do this too.
>
> I'm at a complete loss here.
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>
>
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>
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>
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Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast,
but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series)
running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and
stern.

Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or
fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but
not my first choice.


IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct
footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?

Dave
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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