Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List]

Doug:

I have an "L" shaped removable wood shelf between my engine and the rest of
the cockpit locker.
It fits in nicely, keeps things from entering the engine area.  Allows air
to flow as it does not come all the way up.
Allows things to be placed on it.

Here are two pictures: one in place the other removed so you can see its
shape. https://goo.gl/photos/u4ymLwB2ygf4Yqjk8

Happy Sailing,
Lee Rosenbaum
Kookaburra 1985 33-2
Kenosha, WI

--

--

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2017 15:45:20 + (UTC)
From: "doug.we...@rogers.com" 
To: C List 
Subject: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
Message-ID: <737137205.4478234.1496850320...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine
other than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high. ?This
really limits the usefulness of the locker. ?I had a dinghy paddle bounce
into the shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the
burning plastic smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every
once in a while the sound of hooves are zebras ?). I checked a friend's 29-2
and it has a nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to
fabricate a removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the
group's suggestions on other options.?
Cheers DougCeltic Knot 33-2 c/bFrenchman's Bay



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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

On my 38 OF I have a piece of plywood that has 2 smaller pieces to sandwich 
factory divider. Slides over the top, doesn't allow anything to fall into 
engine space, and is easily removed for maintenance. Plus it is where I hang 
the emergency tiller, and small shop vac. Never thought it wasn't original to 
boat till now. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39
 Original message From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/7/17  18:05  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John and Maryann Read  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2 
On our 34, have the same issue of a cavernous opening from the lazarette to the 
engine compartment / prop shaft with all kinds of potential for mischief.  We 
address this by 1) a laundry basket on top of the water heater to hold all 
sheets and lines, 2) fenders are always placed in lazarette with line outboard, 
3) cockpit folding plastic table standing upright against frame around opening, 
4) hatchboard placed vertically against plastic table, 5) no other material 
goes into lazarette.  3 and 4 prevent anything moving into engine compartment.  
No problems after 18 years John and MaryannLegacy III1982 C 34Noank, CT From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Taillieu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 8:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2 I’ve seen peg 
board used here, it stops everything from falling into the shaft and lots of 
holes to provide airflow to the engine compartment. Rick TaillieuShearwater 
Yacht ClubHalifax, NS. ___

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

On our 34, have the same issue of a cavernous opening from the lazarette to the 
engine compartment / prop shaft with all kinds of potential for mischief.  We 
address this by 1) a laundry basket on top of the water heater to hold all 
sheets and lines, 2) fenders are always placed in lazarette with line outboard, 
3) cockpit folding plastic table standing upright against frame around opening, 
4) hatchboard placed vertically against plastic table, 5) no other material 
goes into lazarette.  3 and 4 prevent anything moving into engine compartment.  
No problems after 18 years

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 8:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

 

I’ve seen peg board used here, it stops everything from falling into the shaft 
and lots of holes to provide airflow to the engine compartment.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I’ve seen peg board used here, it stops everything from falling into the shaft 
and lots of holes to provide airflow to the engine compartment.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
doug.welch--- via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-17 12:45
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

 

I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options. 

 

Cheers Doug

Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b

Frenchman's Bay

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Tortuga via CnC-List]

On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom handles. I
can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not to stow
anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. So
far so good.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ

Derek Kennedy
1979 C 30 mk1- Tortuga
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning a really dirty boat

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I found scrubbing bubbles at Whale Mart.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland. Or

On Jun 7, 2017 1:22 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> While now exactly C related, this may provide help to some lister.
>
> I previously posted about cleaning my old NACRA beach cat in preparation
> for selling it.  It was REALLY dirty.  Lichens, attached vines, mold, you
> name it.  I experimented with polishing compound, 800 grit sandpaper,
> polishing compound with a high speed polisher/sander, Comet, Barkeepers
> Friend, and a few other things.  None worked well.
>
> The Admiral suggested Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach (my normal go to
> mold removal solution).  I combined that with a Scotchbrite pad and the
> result was *significantly *better and faster than any other method.
> Still took a bit of elbow grease but I feel I knocked hours off the job.
>
> Here's pics:
>
> Before cleaning:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsWTRWN3pMbG14emc
> After cleaning:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsZ19VZ05iNHowTDA
> Cleaning tools:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsOHltOHR6WkRXZ3M
>
> I'll polish and wax it, replace some of the running rigging, pressure wash
> the trailer and list it.
>
> Anybody want a nice clean beach cat?  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Cleaning a really dirty boat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

While now exactly C related, this may provide help to some lister.

I previously posted about cleaning my old NACRA beach cat in preparation
for selling it.  It was REALLY dirty.  Lichens, attached vines, mold, you
name it.  I experimented with polishing compound, 800 grit sandpaper,
polishing compound with a high speed polisher/sander, Comet, Barkeepers
Friend, and a few other things.  None worked well.

The Admiral suggested Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach (my normal go to
mold removal solution).  I combined that with a Scotchbrite pad and the
result was *significantly *better and faster than any other method.  Still
took a bit of elbow grease but I feel I knocked hours off the job.

Here's pics:

Before cleaning:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWTRWN3pMbG14emc
After cleaning:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZ19VZ05iNHowTDA
Cleaning tools:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsOHltOHR6WkRXZ3M

I'll polish and wax it, replace some of the running rigging, pressure wash
the trailer and list it.

Anybody want a nice clean beach cat?  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I've tried a piece of plywood. It initially overheated the engine one
night. So I drilled a few holes in the plywood with a hole-saw. That helps,
but I don't feel it's a good solution. The cargo net idea might work
better.

Was it just left open like this from the factory or was there something
that originally covered that gap?

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 1:53 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Did that to allow lots of air flow to engine
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
> Date: 6/7/17 12:49 (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Sippel 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
>
> I have a 33-2  my original idea was to buy a automotive cargo net and put
> it place to keep things in place.
>
> Never got around to it , I simply put the hatch board in place to prevent
> things from spilling .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel*
>
>
>
> *C 33mkii   Matico*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 7, 2017 11:58 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
>
>
>
> I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way
> to separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had
> anything fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen.
> I'm definitely interested in suggestions from others.
>
>
>
>
>
> Kevin Paxton
>
> '82 34 #473
>
> Japhys Spirit
>
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine
> other than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This
> really limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce
> into the shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the
> burning plastic smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every
> once in a while the sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's
> 29-2 and it has a nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan
> is to fabricate a removable separator from wire shelving but would like to
> get the group's suggestions on other options.
>
>
>
> Cheers Doug
>
> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
>
> Frenchman's Bay
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[David via CnC-List]

Did that to allow lots of air flow to engine



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
Date: 6/7/17 12:49 (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

I have a 33-2  my original idea was to buy a automotive cargo net and put it 
place to keep things in place.
Never got around to it , I simply put the hatch board in place to prevent 
things from spilling .



Tim Sippel

C 33mkii   Matico

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 7, 2017 11:58 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way to 
separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had anything 
fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen. I'm definitely 
interested in suggestions from others.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options.

Cheers Doug
Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
Frenchman's Bay
Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Bruce,
On my 1994 37/40+ there is an access port in the head bulkhead. This makes it 
easier to work on the raw water pump and starter. I don't know how you would 
access either without it. 
You might want to dress the face of the pump with a smooth flat file, just to 
remove a thigh spots that might be preventing the cover from solidly contacting 
the oring 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver 


> On Jun 7, 2017, at 7:42 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Note that you may also have an O ring or 2 on the shaft that the impeller 
> turns on that are on the engine side of the impeller. On my Beta, there were 
> 2 O rings between the impeller and the engine--these keep the water out of 
> the crankcase, etc.
> If these are bad or the shaft is 'scored', replacing impellers, or O rings on 
> the non-engine/impeller side of the shaft will not solve your problem.
>  
> In my case the shaft was 'scored' and I needed to replace the entire pump 
> assembly since the Beta shop could not reasonably remove the scoring.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Oriental, NC
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Neil Gallagher 
> Sent: Wed, Jun 7, 2017 10:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> The issue with putting a gasket under the cover is that now the cover will be 
> moved away from the edge of the vanes of the impeller.  The pump works by 
> creating a vacuum in each space between the vanes at the inlet as the 
> impeller vanes open up and pressure when the vanes close down a the outlet.  
> The vanes need to contact the cover to create a seal, that's why an o-ring is 
> used, it keeps the cover in contact with the edge of the vanes.  Bottom line, 
> the gasket would have to be very thin not to affect the pump's performance.  
> 
> On some pumps you can buy a new cover as well as the gasket because the cover 
> wears, I'm not sure about the Yanmar.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> On 6/7/2017 8:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was 
> checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming through 
> around the impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they were not really 
> loose), and the leak still continues.  When I replaced the impeller, I also 
> replaced the o-ring, so that should not be the issue.  That said, the old 
> o-ring had a tear (the cover was leaking, though more so then).  The face of 
> the water pump was also a little rough, presumably from people prying  with 
> angled needle nose pliers in the process of removing the old impeller.  That 
> said, the cover itself was smooth, and the groove for the o-ring was fine as 
> well. 
> 
> I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin o-ring for 
> sealing something that is below the water line.  I am thinking about getting 
> some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a proper gasket, applying teflon 
> grease to it, and using a gasket instead.
> 
> Is this a bad idea?
> 
> By the way, our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is mounted 
> in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to remove the water 
> pump, and even removing the starter is not exactly a fun job, again due to 
> poor access to mounting bolts. 
> 
> Thanks for your insights! 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

I have a wood panel that removes easily with a turn of a latch. Comes up to 
Within  6" of the cockpit sole. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2017, at 12:48 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a 33-2  my original idea was to buy a automotive cargo net and put it 
> place to keep things in place.
> Never got around to it , I simply put the hatch board in place to prevent 
> things from spilling .
>  
>  
>  
> Tim Sippel
>  
> C 33mkii   Matico
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
> Paxton via CnC-List
> Sent: June 7, 2017 11:58 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Kevin Paxton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
>  
> I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way to 
> separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had anything 
> fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen. I'm 
> definitely interested in suggestions from others.
>  
>  
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>  
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
> than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
> limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
> shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
> smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while 
> the sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a 
> nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
> removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
> suggestions on other options. 
>  
> Cheers Doug
> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
> Frenchman's Bay
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the 
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> 
> 
> 
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
> fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I have a 33-2  my original idea was to buy a automotive cargo net and put it 
place to keep things in place.
Never got around to it , I simply put the hatch board in place to prevent 
things from spilling .



Tim Sippel

C 33mkii   Matico

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 7, 2017 11:58 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way to 
separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had anything 
fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen. I'm definitely 
interested in suggestions from others.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options.

Cheers Doug
Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
Frenchman's Bay
Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android
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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
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Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence has a piece of vinyl that snaps into place for this purpose.  Has 
noise dampening material on the engine side as well.

Mike
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
doug.welch--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 12:45 PM
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options.

Cheers Doug
Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
Frenchman's Bay
Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way
to separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had
anything fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen.
I'm definitely interested in suggestions from others.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine
> other than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This
> really limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce
> into the shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the
> burning plastic smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every
> once in a while the sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's
> 29-2 and it has a nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan
> is to fabricate a removable separator from wire shelving but would like to
> get the group's suggestions on other options.
>
> Cheers Doug
> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
> Frenchman's Bay
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options. 
Cheers DougCeltic Knot 33-2 c/bFrenchman's Bay

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a speedseal.  I like the engineering.  I have never burnt up an
impeller.  I also run a globe run-dry impeller.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017, 10:20 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Have you consideered one of these:
> http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html
> I haven't tried one, but I'm considering putting one on my pump.  Has
> anyone on the list tried one?
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 5:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was
>> checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming
>> through around the impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they were
>> not really loose), and the leak still continues.  When I replaced the
>> impeller, I also replaced the o-ring, so that should not be the issue.
>> That said, the old o-ring had a tear (the cover was leaking, though more so
>> then).  The face of the water pump was also a little rough, presumably from
>> people prying  with angled needle nose pliers in the process of removing
>> the old impeller.  That said, the cover itself was smooth, and the groove
>> for the o-ring was fine as well.
>>
>> I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin o-ring
>> for sealing something that is below the water line.  I am thinking about
>> getting some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a proper gasket,
>> applying teflon grease to it, and using a gasket instead.
>>
>> Is this a bad idea?
>>
>> By the way, our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is
>> mounted in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to remove
>> the water pump, and even removing the starter is not exactly a fun job,
>> again due to poor access to mounting bolts.
>>
>> Thanks for your insights!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=uwKcdScAKKKhjO8EHj-cL-FzMLAcLF3r6xt8CB5uCCo=z1NOOf_8fRdRMBrHVPG0SQPq4NypQ02dRIJ3l-m6wBM=
>
>
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Note that you may also have an O ring or 2 on the shaft that the impeller turns 
on that are on the engine side of the impeller. On my Beta, there were 2 O 
rings between the impeller and the engine--these keep the water out of the 
crankcase, etc.
If these are bad or the shaft is 'scored', replacing impellers, or O rings on 
the non-engine/impeller side of the shaft will not solve your problem.
 
In my case the shaft was 'scored' and I needed to replace the entire pump 
assembly since the Beta shop could not reasonably remove the scoring. 

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Sent: Wed, Jun 7, 2017 10:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover


Bruce,

The issue with putting a gasket under the cover is that now thecover 
will be moved away from the edge of the vanes of theimpeller.  The pump 
works by creating a vacuum in each space betweenthe vanes at the inlet as 
the impeller vanes open up and pressurewhen the vanes close down a the 
outlet.  The vanes need to contactthe cover to create a seal, that's why an 
o-ring is used, it keepsthe cover in contact with the edge of the vanes.  
Bottom line, thegasket would have to be very thin not to affect the pump's  
  performance.  

On some pumps you can buy a new cover as well as the gasket becausethe 
cover wears, I'm not sure about the Yanmar.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 6/7/2017 8:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via  CnC-List wrote:


  

Hello,




I replaced  the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was 
 checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness 
 coming through around the impeller cover.  I tightened the  cover 
bolts (they were not really loose), and the leak still  continues.  
When I replaced the impeller, I also replaced the  o-ring, so that 
should not be the issue.  That said, the old  o-ring had a tear (the 
cover was leaking, though more so  then).  The face of the water pump 
was also a little rough,  presumably from people prying  with angled 
needle nose pliers  in the process of removing the old impeller.  That 
said, the  cover itself was smooth, and the groove for the o-ring was   
   fine as well. 





I personally  don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin 
o-ring  for sealing something that is below the water line.  I am   
   thinking about getting some thin cork gasket material, and  cutting 
a proper gasket, applying teflon grease to it, and  using a gasket 
instead.




Is this a  bad idea?




By the way,  our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is   
   mounted in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the  
bolts to remove the water pump, and even removing the starter  is not 
exactly a fun job, again due to poor access to mounting  bolts. 





Thanks for  your insights! 


 

Bruce Whitmore
  
  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
  
  
  
  
  
  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Have you consideered one of these:  http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html
I haven't tried one, but I'm considering putting one on my pump.  Has
anyone on the list tried one?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 5:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was
> checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming
> through around the impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they were
> not really loose), and the leak still continues.  When I replaced the
> impeller, I also replaced the o-ring, so that should not be the issue.
> That said, the old o-ring had a tear (the cover was leaking, though more so
> then).  The face of the water pump was also a little rough, presumably from
> people prying  with angled needle nose pliers in the process of removing
> the old impeller.  That said, the cover itself was smooth, and the groove
> for the o-ring was fine as well.
>
> I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin o-ring
> for sealing something that is below the water line.  I am thinking about
> getting some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a proper gasket,
> applying teflon grease to it, and using a gasket instead.
>
> Is this a bad idea?
>
> By the way, our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is
> mounted in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to remove
> the water pump, and even removing the starter is not exactly a fun job,
> again due to poor access to mounting bolts.
>
> Thanks for your insights!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> uwKcdScAKKKhjO8EHj-cL-FzMLAcLF3r6xt8CB5uCCo=z1NOOf_
> 8fRdRMBrHVPG0SQPq4NypQ02dRIJ3l-m6wBM=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Bruce,

The issue with putting a gasket under the cover is that now the cover 
will be moved away from the edge of the vanes of the impeller.  The pump 
works by creating a vacuum in each space between the vanes at the inlet 
as the impeller vanes open up and pressure when the vanes close down a 
the outlet.  The vanes need to contact the cover to create a seal, 
that's why an o-ring is used, it keeps the cover in contact with the 
edge of the vanes.  Bottom line, the gasket would have to be very thin 
not to affect the pump's performance.


On some pumps you can buy a new cover as well as the gasket because the 
cover wears, I'm not sure about the Yanmar.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/7/2017 8:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello,

I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was 
checking over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming 
through around the impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they 
were not really loose), and the leak still continues.  When I replaced 
the impeller, I also replaced the o-ring, so that should not be the 
issue.  That said, the old o-ring had a tear (the cover was leaking, 
though more so then).  The face of the water pump was also a little 
rough, presumably from people prying  with angled needle nose pliers 
in the process of removing the old impeller.  That said, the cover 
itself was smooth, and the groove for the o-ring was fine as well.


I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin 
o-ring for sealing something that is below the water line.  I am 
thinking about getting some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a 
proper gasket, applying teflon grease to it, and using a gasket instead.


Is this a bad idea?

By the way, our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is 
mounted in the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to 
remove the water pump, and even removing the starter is not exactly a 
fun job, again due to poor access to mounting bolts.


Thanks for your insights!
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Yanmar 3JH2E leak around water pump impeller cover

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello,
I replaced the impeller on a Yanmar 3JH2E about a month ago, and I was checking 
over the engine last weekend and noticed some wetness coming through around the 
impeller cover.  I tightened the cover bolts (they were not really loose), and 
the leak still continues.  When I replaced the impeller, I also replaced the 
o-ring, so that should not be the issue.  That said, the old o-ring had a tear 
(the cover was leaking, though more so then).  The face of the water pump was 
also a little rough, presumably from people prying  with angled needle nose 
pliers in the process of removing the old impeller.  That said, the cover 
itself was smooth, and the groove for the o-ring was fine as well. 

I personally don't like the idea of relying on Yanmar's very thin o-ring for 
sealing something that is below the water line.  I am thinking about getting 
some thin cork gasket material, and cutting a proper gasket, applying teflon 
grease to it, and using a gasket instead.
Is this a bad idea?
By the way, our boat is a 1994 C 37/40+, and the way the engine is mounted in 
the boat, it is nearly impossible to get to the bolts to remove the water pump, 
and even removing the starter is not exactly a fun job, again due to poor 
access to mounting bolts. 

Thanks for your insights! 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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