Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

As an owner of a 1986 44 I am very interested in the results of the survey
on your 44.  I have had mine for 10 yrs and all is good.
Feel free to ask me questions.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Jul 1, 2017 7:36 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I already did that on the hull and it sounds good and crisp. The topsides
> are hard to read because many areas are only 8-12 inches wide and you don't
> get the same sounds from those spots. The wider flatter sections sounded ok
> though.
>
> Dan
>
> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You could take a plastic mallet for yourself and percussion test in key
>> locations.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Jul 1, 2017 10:17 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
>>> installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
>>> with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
 aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

 Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
 registered but had no responses...

 I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a
 survey to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44
 owners out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove
 through hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent
 egress or can you visibly see the balsa core layer?

 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As I understand it C has had few failures that weren't caused by damage
(collisions) or bad POs.  The only wet sections of my boat are the rudder.
Had it rebuilt.  Welds looked immaculate.  4 years later it is wet again.
Core of my rudder is made of medium density foam not balsa.

Josh

On Jul 1, 2017 10:35 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

I already did that on the hull and it sounds good and crisp. The topsides
are hard to read because many areas are only 8-12 inches wide and you don't
get the same sounds from those spots. The wider flatter sections sounded ok
though.

Dan

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You could take a plastic mallet for yourself and percussion test in key
> locations.
>
> Josh
>
> On Jul 1, 2017 10:17 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
>> installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
>> with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
>>> aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
>>> registered but had no responses...
>>>
>>> I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a
>>> survey to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44
>>> owners out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove
>>> through hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent
>>> egress or can you visibly see the balsa core layer?
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

___

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Dan via CnC-List]

I already did that on the hull and it sounds good and crisp. The topsides
are hard to read because many areas are only 8-12 inches wide and you don't
get the same sounds from those spots. The wider flatter sections sounded ok
though.

Dan

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You could take a plastic mallet for yourself and percussion test in key
> locations.
>
> Josh
>
> On Jul 1, 2017 10:17 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
>> installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
>> with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
>>> aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
>>> registered but had no responses...
>>>
>>> I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a
>>> survey to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44
>>> owners out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove
>>> through hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent
>>> egress or can you visibly see the balsa core layer?
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You could take a plastic mallet for yourself and percussion test in key
locations.

Josh

On Jul 1, 2017 10:17 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
> installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
> with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)
>
> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
>> aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
>> registered but had no responses...
>>
>> I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a
>> survey to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44
>> owners out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove
>> through hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent
>> egress or can you visibly see the balsa core layer?
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
> aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
> Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
> registered but had no responses...
>
> I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a survey
> to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44 owners
> out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove through
> hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent egress or
> can you visibly see the balsa core layer?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
registered but had no responses...

I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a survey
to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44 owners
out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove through
hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent egress or
can you visibly see the balsa core layer?

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker.  The luff and leach are the same
length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the
boat.

You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to
the mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up
so that when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and
the "guy" can fly up.  The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on
bottom.  Both bridles will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a
ring fixed in the center.  There isn't much need to have the bridles tight
so the rings may ride 12 to 24 inches above/below the pole.  The top bridle
creates a way to lift the pole with a rope that exists the mast about
halfway up and below impediments such as a radar.  This rope is called the
topping tift and is used to hold the pole horizontal.  The bottom bridle is
attached to a rope that attaches to the foredeck directly below.  This rope
is usually lead aft along the toe rail and cleated off.  It is called thw
down haul and is used to prevent the outboard end of the pole from being
lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The inboard end of the pole
attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward face of the mast.
Typically I try to raise the ring to about my height, this lifts the
inboard end of the pole - high but easy to reach.  The topping lift can
then be used to lift and hold the rest of the pole horizontal as mentioned
above.  Both jaws on the pole should have release lines wich extend ~3/4 of
the length and are anchored near the opposite end.  This allows the
operator to open either jaw from nearly any location along the pole.

The out board end of the pole gets the windward spinsheet which until the
next jibe will be called the "guy".  The leeward spinsheet is just call the
sheet.  Both of these lines are typically run through turning blocks near
the aft end of the toe rail which keep the lines lead outside of the life
lines and then fairlead them inside to a secondary winch.  Trimming the guy
means keeping the pole perpendicular to the wind.  Trimming the sheet means
letting it out until the windward sail edge (pole side) begins to curl -
too much curl? - sheet in.  Every time you jibe you will sail dead down
wind ease the guy so that the pole is roughly at a 45° angle.  The sheet
should be roughly matched.  Standing infront of the mast facing forward the
foredeck operator will reach up to the mast ring, pull the jaw release for
the jaw in the ring.  The pole is now supported by and free to pivot about
on the top and bottom bridles.  What was the inboard jaw is now pushed out
towards what was the leeward side of the boat.  The jaw is opened and what
was the sheet is hooked in the jaw.  Next what was the outboard end jaw is
opened releasing what was the guy and that jaw is hooked to the mast ring.
The foredeck operator shouts "MADE!" so that the helm can finish the
maneuver by jibing the mainsail and the crew can trim the spinnaker.  The
old guy is now the sheet and the old sheet is now the guy.  The "leach" and
the "luff" have also swapped.

Some setups include "twings" which are open cheak snatch blocks placed at
the widest part of the toe rail on each side of the boat.  This holds the
guy down and helps prevent the pole from flying in addition to the down
haul.  Early in the jibe (about the same time that the helm is turning dead
down wind) the guy is released from the twing, again windward side = guy.
After the pole is "MADE!" the new guy will be inserted into its respective
twing on the new windward side.

Each sheet will probably need to be about twice the boat length.

This is an end for end jibe and its easier to show than to explain and
easier to explain than to master.

Oh, and the green stripe usually would indicate the starboard side of the
sail but that is just so that the front faces forward and numbers can be
read.  Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow
stripe on the foot.  This also help when packing the sail in a traditional
bag.  Since you have a sock it is less needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 1, 2017 8:33 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

OK, seems like a dumb question.  We spread out the cruising spinnaker on
our lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C
37/40+/.  It is in a spinnaker sock.  The sheets were in the bag, but not
attached to the sail.  It is made by UK.  Along one edge is a bright green
strip.  It seems like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't
tell for sure.  There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a
cable or reinforced luff seemingly build in.  Both sides seem to be the
same length.  Do I have an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the
green the leach or the luff?

New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)

Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Dan via CnC-List]

Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
registered but had no responses...

I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a survey
to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44 owners
out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove through
hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent egress or
can you visibly see the balsa core layer?
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

If luff and leech are the same length, it's a symmetrical kite. Don't let that 
stop you flying it as if it was asymmetrical.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jul 1, 2017, at 20:32, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK, seems like a dumb question.  We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our 
> lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C 37/40+/.  It 
> is in a spinnaker sock.  The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the 
> sail.  It is made by UK.  Along one edge is a bright green strip.  It seems 
> like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure.  
> There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced 
> luff seemingly build in.  Both sides seem to be the same length.  Do I have 
> an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff?  
> 
> New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

OK, seems like a dumb question.  We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our 
lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C 37/40+/.  It is 
in a spinnaker sock.  The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail. 
 It is made by UK.  Along one edge is a bright green strip.  It seems like that 
is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure.  There are no 
labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced luff seemingly 
build in.  Both sides seem to be the same length.  Do I have an asymmetrical 
spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff?  

New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Drone Video

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Very nice. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/1/17  16:55  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Drone Video 
The pilot got around to sending me the full length video in ultra high 
resolution.  I added music and trimmed the beginning and end.  Pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/uNgjeeNMBVA
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


On Jul 1, 2017 7:37 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
wrote:
What a nice video!GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 27+East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Jun 29, 2017 at 1:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
An amateur drone pilot spotted us while we were out sailing.  He searched our 
boat name and then tracked down our web page and email.  He shared the video 
and we put it on our facebook page, how cool!
 https://www.facebook.com/cbcsailing/videos/700045376848423/

Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com






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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List Drone Video

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The pilot got around to sending me the full length video in ultra high
resolution.  I added music and trimmed the beginning and end.  Pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/uNgjeeNMBVA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jul 1, 2017 7:37 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> What a nice video!
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 27+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 29, 2017 at 1:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> An amateur drone pilot spotted us while we were out sailing.  He searched
>> our boat name and then tracked down our web page and email.  He shared the
>> video and we put it on our facebook page, how cool!
>>
>>  https://www.facebook.com/cbcsailing/videos/700045376848423/
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> --
>> When security matters.
>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Drone Video

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

What a nice video!
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 27+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Jun 29, 2017 at 1:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> An amateur drone pilot spotted us while we were out sailing.  He searched
> our boat name and then tracked down our web page and email.  He shared the
> video and we put it on our facebook page, how cool!
>
>  https://www.facebook.com/cbcsailing/videos/700045376848423/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> --
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Check with Airmar, as they probably made that transducer for Northstar: 
www.airmar.com/productinfo.html?category=MT=Marine%20Transducers 



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 1, 2017, at 5:08 AM, henry evans via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> If worse comes to worse, try your local hobby shop.  They usually stock both 
> brass and stainless rod in a variety  of small diameters for hobbyists. Cut 
> it to the length you need for your axel.. 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Hank
> 
> 
> On Friday, June 30, 2017, 9:31:48 PM CDT, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Listers,
> 
> A well intentioned crew member tried to remove my speed transducer from the 
> hull this evening and managed to lose the pin that holds the paddlewheel in 
> the transducer. It is a Northstar Explorer S310. I have the paddlewheel, and 
> just need that axle. Does anyone know where to source something like that?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> 
> -- 
> --- 
> Thomas C. Delaney
> 917-337-5524
___

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Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Nice.  Where did you find that handle?

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 30, 2017, at 2:37 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> Thanks for the suggestion. I did look at Lee Valley, but I did not find what 
> you did. I bought the handle and installed. The total cost $2.50 (CAD). 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8w4rk7hjs29j66r/20170628_202718.jpg?dl=0
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Dave S via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 06:47
> To: C Stus List
> Cc: Dave S
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement
>  
> Marek - 4 thoughts:
>  
>  
> repair the handle with epoxy, with a heavily waxed 1/4-20 bolt or threaded 
> rod inserted.   do it on your workbench at home.  Once it kicks, clamp the 
> bolt in a vise, if necessary gently it heat with a torch, and remove the 
> handle.
> or
> Drill and tap something cool to make a new handle.
> or
> Check busybee, lee valley or McMaster Carr for a replacement handle.  its a 
> common thread size.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=61652=1,43455,61994=1
> or 
> Drill and tap (if necessary)  a line terminal ball and secure with a nut, or 
> devise a lanyard.
>  
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sea-sure--line-stopper-balls--P002_065_006_026?recordNum=12
>  
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2017 21:02:00 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement
> To prevent epoxy from adhering to anything, you can use fiberglass mold 
> release.  You can also use a fiberglass or automotive paste wax.  Or don't 
> and just have the handle permanently attached.  Maybe some JB Weld?  JB Weld 
> Putty?
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Jun 19, 2017 7:42 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> Hello,
>  
> My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
> handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
> replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
> SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
> comes to about $60.
>  
> I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs 
> about $40.
>  
> I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
> way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
> about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
> some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
> that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
> thread is 1/4 - 20.
>  
> Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
> epoxy won’t adhere to it?
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Or stainless welding rod?




Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: henry evans via CnC-List  
Date: 7/1/2017  6:08 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
Cc: henry evans  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle 

Tom,
If worse comes to worse, try your local hobby shop.  They usually stock both 
brass and stainless rod in a variety  of small diameters for hobbyists. Cut it 
to the length you need for your axel.. 
Cheers,
Hank

On Friday, June 30, 2017, 9:31:48 PM CDT, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Listers,
A well intentioned crew member tried to remove my speed transducer from the 
hull this evening and managed to lose the pin that holds the paddlewheel in the 
transducer. It is a Northstar Explorer S310. I have the paddlewheel, and just 
need that axle. Does anyone know where to source something like that?

Thanks,
Tom

-- 
--- Thomas C. Delaney917-337-5524___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

[henry evans via CnC-List]

Tom,
If worse comes to worse, try your local hobby shop.  They usually stock both 
brass and stainless rod in a variety  of small diameters for hobbyists. Cut it 
to the length you need for your axel.. 
Cheers,
Hank

On Friday, June 30, 2017, 9:31:48 PM CDT, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Listers,
A well intentioned crew member tried to remove my speed transducer from the 
hull this evening and managed to lose the pin that holds the paddlewheel in the 
transducer. It is a Northstar Explorer S310. I have the paddlewheel, and just 
need that axle. Does anyone know where to source something like that?

Thanks,
Tom

-- 
--- Thomas C. Delaney917-337-5524___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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