Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

IIRC, at least on my 36 XL, the toe rail bolts also hold the deck to the hull 
at the hull-deck joint. 


I had an old water leak from a collision 15 years ago repaired this past 
summer. The leak was at about 6 ft aft of the bow on the starboard side. The 
fix was to undo the toe rail and bolts from the bow aft to about 1/2 way to the 
stern. The hull deck joint was then pried open to remove the old sealant at the 
joint and re bed it for a length of about 2 feet. This was a 2 man operation on 
the hard done by yard personnel and it only involved opening the rail 1/2 way 
aft on one side--about 80 yard hours!


Thus re bedding the entire rail would be a formidable job requiring 2 persons. 
Further, in the process you may open up a leak where there is none now and not 
realize it until the rail is back in place. 


A simple sponge or 'wick' would do the trick without disturbing the toe rail 
and/or the hull deck joint.


Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
Greenville, NC









cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: captain_jake 
Sent: Sat, Feb 10, 2018 5:03 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain



Christian,
 
Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that 
seem to radiate from the toe rail.  I have seen others use small pieces of 
sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side.  I would certainly 
try this before cutting into the toe rail.  Give it a shot.
 
Jake
 
 
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA

 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian 
Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 16:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton 
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain
 

Hello everybody,

 

I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the 
toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was 
even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting 
up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain. 

 

I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit. 

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 

 

ChristianPlanton

Peer Gyth

C 34 1980 

Saugatuck, CT 



 

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org.




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Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Don't do it.  Don't rebed it.  Don't cut it.

I use pieces of cotton oil lamp wick to wick the water over the side.
Minimizes the puddle and minimizes the streaks down the topsides.

Try that first and see if it works for you.  Won't completely eliminate the
issue but should reduce it quite a bit.

As far as rebedding the toe rail, that's quite a job.  I just run a few
beads of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail/deck
interface each spring.  Stops leaks.  Takes just a few miniutes per bead
application.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Feb 10, 2018 2:04 PM, "Christian Planton via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everybody,
>
> I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding
> the toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out.
> I was even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of
> places "Lifting up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain.
>
> I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit.
>
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
>
> ChristianPlanton
> Peer Gyth
> C 34 1980
> Saugatuck, CT
>
>
> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
> address plant...@wiltonps.org.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Christian,

 

Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that 
seem to radiate from the toe rail.  I have seen others use small pieces of 
sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side.  I would certainly 
try this before cutting into the toe rail.  Give it a shot.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian 
Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 16:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton 
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

 

Hello everybody,

 

I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the 
toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was 
even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting 
up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain. 

 

I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit. 

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 

 

ChristianPlanton

Peer Gyth

C 34 1980 

Saugatuck, CT 


 

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org  .

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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Good call.  I considered that but the location of the chock is so close to
the bottom and the contour is from the bottom.  I don't know exactly how
much it is tapered but its not extreme.

Josh

On Feb 10, 2018 3:20 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Did you say the mast is pulled? Can you trace the curvature at the step
> end? If the mast extrusion is tapered, this won’t work.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 9, 2018 19:20
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount
>
>
>
> Ok Guys,
>
>
>
> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
> curved leading edge of the mast.
>
>
>
> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[Christian Planton via CnC-List]

Hello everybody,

I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding
the toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out.
I was even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of
places "Lifting up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain.

I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

ChristianPlanton
Peer Gyth
C 34 1980
Saugatuck, CT


Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
address plant...@wiltonps.org.
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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If you have a tapered mast on a 37R, or 37 XL it only seems to taper above
the upper spreader.  Offshore Spar built those masts.  I'm not sure if the
37+ mast was tapered at all, and I don't know who built those masts.

Ken H.

On 10 February 2018 at 16:19, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Did you say the mast is pulled? Can you trace the curvature at the step
> end? If the mast extrusion is tapered, this won’t work.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 9, 2018 19:20
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount
>
>
>
> Ok Guys,
>
>
>
> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
> curved leading edge of the mast.
>
>
>
> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ window replacement

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Mark, you want cast and 3/8". The first time mine were done the 'expert' used 
1/4 which I did not know until I had both crack after just 3 years. He did not 
polish or bevel the edges either and did a lot of damage to the opening. 
When we re did them I got the windows made at SOUTHSHORE as Rob had the 
original patterns, the had the installer, re do the openings, he was a highly 
regarded fibreglass repairman who's work looks great including matching the gel 
coat.

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Mark Baldridge via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 7:20:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge
Subject: Stus-List C 37+ window replacement

Hi All,

I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around.
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new
upholstery for the interior.

So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to
the folks doing the work.

Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC



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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Josh,

Did you say the mast is pulled? Can you trace the curvature at the step end? If 
the mast extrusion is tapered, this won’t work.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 19:20
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

Ok Guys,

I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast while 
it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard end of the 
pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm pretty much all 
set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard end of the pole.  
The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the curved leading edge of 
the mast.

I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ window replacement

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

The only thing can add (after doing 10 windows) is that the surface need to be 
flat and smooth, install and seal out of direct sunlight, minimum 3/16 gap for 
sealing, slight bevel on both sides of plexi ( more on tape side) outside just 
enough to remove sharp edge, and when sealing push sealant with nozzle. Then 
smooth in one stroke for best finish. Also let them know they get one shot at 
the windows. Once the plexi touches the tape it is STUCK!! I put the tape in 
cut out  even with inside edge of opening. Use a spacer on bottom edge to 
position plexi in opening. Good luck. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/9/18  16:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge  Subject: 
Stus-List C 37+ window replacement 
Hi All,

I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my 
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on 
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I 
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around. 
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new 
upholstery for the interior.

So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795 
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to 
the folks doing the work.

Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what 
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work 
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC



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Re: Stus-List Interior Teak

[Jim via CnC-List]

To clean and kill any mold on wood in the boat I’ve always used a 50/50 water 
and vinegar mix.  Has worked well for me. 
Cheers
James. 
C 35 Mk1

- Original Message -
From: David Castor via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor 
Sent: Sat, 10 Feb 2018 11:52:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Teak

In Good Old Boat, Don Casey recommends cleaning interior teak using a
mixture of liquid laundry soap, bleach and water.  1 cup of soap and bleach
per gallon of water, but stronger if necessary.  I've done this on some of
my boat's interior.  You have to let the solution soak for 15 to 30
minutes, then wipe off and rinse with water.  It takes a little work and
maybe multiple passes, but this removed a lot of grime and the bleach
should kill the mold.   Casey recommends following this with the Amazon
brand Lemon Oil.  That requires fairly frequent renewal in my experience.
You could also just use a wiping varnish such as Danish Oil.  Despite the
"Oil" in the name, it contains thinned varnish that can be rubbed on.

From m experience, the cleaning will greatly improve things.  I ended up
using a Scotch green scrubby, very lightly with the grain, to get the
stubborn grime off after soaking in the soap solution.  Worst case, if you
raise the grain in the wood, you can lightly sand it using 220 grit prior
to finishing.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions on the best finish to apply.  8-)

Cheers,

Dave Castor
Port Angeles, WA



On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my
> cabin teak.
> (I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)
>
> My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did
> 'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.
>
> Some of it has accumulated surface mold and other sections look a little
> 'ratty' so I am considering coating it with proper surface preparation
> (don't plan to sand except perhaps as part of the clean-up before
> application of anything). I want it to 'shine' at least a little more than
> the oiled look and I want it to last for awhile.
>
> I am looking for recommendations from the list on the best
> stuff/procedures to use to get a nice varnish 'look' below without applying
> coat after coat with sanding, etc. I mostly club race the boat--I don't now
> or plan to live on her--but I want to freshen up her look below.
>
> I am thinking of some sort of mostly clear coating since I think the teak
> color below will be fine after its cleaned properly.
>
> Suggestions welcome on both surface preparation and what product to apply.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


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Stus-List Crew Member Needed 5/19 in Maryland

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

On 5/19/18 my 1st mate Steve will be away. This is the Herring Bay to
Bloody Point race on the Chesapeake Bay - across the bay and back. This is
an Herrington Harbour Sailing Association club race (HHSA).  HHSA requires
two on an individual boat.


I am looking for a commitment for at least 1 to join me on my C 24.
Contact me at d...@ellmore.net

Cheers!

Doug Ellmore
s/v Red Sky
1976 C 24, #102
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Re: Stus-List Interior Teak

[David Castor via CnC-List]

In Good Old Boat, Don Casey recommends cleaning interior teak using a
mixture of liquid laundry soap, bleach and water.  1 cup of soap and bleach
per gallon of water, but stronger if necessary.  I've done this on some of
my boat's interior.  You have to let the solution soak for 15 to 30
minutes, then wipe off and rinse with water.  It takes a little work and
maybe multiple passes, but this removed a lot of grime and the bleach
should kill the mold.   Casey recommends following this with the Amazon
brand Lemon Oil.  That requires fairly frequent renewal in my experience.
You could also just use a wiping varnish such as Danish Oil.  Despite the
"Oil" in the name, it contains thinned varnish that can be rubbed on.

>From m experience, the cleaning will greatly improve things.  I ended up
using a Scotch green scrubby, very lightly with the grain, to get the
stubborn grime off after soaking in the soap solution.  Worst case, if you
raise the grain in the wood, you can lightly sand it using 220 grit prior
to finishing.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions on the best finish to apply.  8-)

Cheers,

Dave Castor
Port Angeles, WA



On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my
> cabin teak.
> (I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)
>
> My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did
> 'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.
>
> Some of it has accumulated surface mold and other sections look a little
> 'ratty' so I am considering coating it with proper surface preparation
> (don't plan to sand except perhaps as part of the clean-up before
> application of anything). I want it to 'shine' at least a little more than
> the oiled look and I want it to last for awhile.
>
> I am looking for recommendations from the list on the best
> stuff/procedures to use to get a nice varnish 'look' below without applying
> coat after coat with sanding, etc. I mostly club race the boat--I don't now
> or plan to live on her--but I want to freshen up her look below.
>
> I am thinking of some sort of mostly clear coating since I think the teak
> color below will be fine after its cleaned properly.
>
> Suggestions welcome on both surface preparation and what product to apply.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Interior Teak

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my cabin 
teak.
(I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)


My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did 
'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.


Some of it has accumulated surface mold and other sections look a little 
'ratty' so I am considering coating it with proper surface preparation (don't 
plan to sand except perhaps as part of the clean-up before application of 
anything). I want it to 'shine' at least a little more than the oiled look and 
I want it to last for awhile.


I am looking for recommendations from the list on the best stuff/procedures to 
use to get a nice varnish 'look' below without applying coat after coat with 
sanding, etc. I mostly club race the boat--I don't now or plan to live on 
her--but I want to freshen up her look below.


I am thinking of some sort of mostly clear coating since I think the teak color 
below will be fine after its cleaned properly.


Suggestions welcome on both surface preparation and what product to apply.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If you don't have a fancy contour guage or tool, use a length of solder.

Dennis C.

On Feb 9, 2018 7:28 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Or use a contour gauge and trace the shape. Then cut it to shape

On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 9:18 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Tape a piece of 60 grit sandpaper to the mast.  Rub a piece of teak,
> Starboard, UHMW or whatever up and down until it conforms to the mast.  2-3
> beer job.  Builds biceps.  Better to hoist more beers.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Feb 9, 2018 5:20 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Ok Guys,
>>
>> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
>> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
>> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
>> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
>> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
>> curved leading edge of the mast.
>>
>> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this
>> situation.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> --
Joel
301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>

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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Neat trick!

In my case I actually have access to the bottom of the mast to get the
contour.

Josh

On Sat, Feb 10, 2018, 9:24 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A carpenters trick is to;
>
> - place the teak against the mast
> - gauge the widest gap between the teak and the mast (outer edge)
> - wrap tape around a pencil same amount as gap (This will give you the
> widest point)
> - hold teak against mast, and trace the pencil (with tape) along the mast
> starting from widest point to the other end of the piece of teak.
> - this results in the exact curvature you need.
> - sand / cut (drum sander or otherwise)
>
> Contour gage works just as well, but if you don’t have one, and don’t plan
> to use it often, the above saves some money.
>
>
> /J
>
> On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:18 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
>
> Tape a piece of 60 grit sandpaper to the mast.  Rub a piece of teak,
> Starboard, UHMW or whatever up and down until it conforms to the mast.  2-3
> beer job.  Builds biceps.  Better to hoist more beers.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Feb 9, 2018 5:20 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Ok Guys,
>>
>> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
>> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
>> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
>> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
>> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
>> curved leading edge of the mast.
>>
>> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this
>> situation.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

A carpenters trick is to;

- place the teak against the mast
- gauge the widest gap between the teak and the mast (outer edge)
- wrap tape around a pencil same amount as gap (This will give you the widest 
point)
- hold teak against mast, and trace the pencil (with tape) along the mast 
starting from widest point to the other end of the piece of teak.
- this results in the exact curvature you need.
- sand / cut (drum sander or otherwise)

Contour gage works just as well, but if you don’t have one, and don’t plan to 
use it often, the above saves some money.


/J

> On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:18 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Tape a piece of 60 grit sandpaper to the mast.  Rub a piece of teak, 
> Starboard, UHMW or whatever up and down until it conforms to the mast.  2-3 
> beer job.  Builds biceps.  Better to hoist more beers.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Feb 9, 2018 5:20 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Ok Guys,
>> 
>> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast 
>> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard end 
>> of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm pretty 
>> much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard end of 
>> the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the curved 
>> leading edge of the mast.
>> 
>> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List hisker pole chock mast mount

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I store my whisker pole vertically on the mast and have never felt the need for 
a chock for the bottom end.  The weight of the pole, slight spring of the 
sections, plus the curvature of the mast base keeps it quite securely in place. 
 Dave

> On Feb 10, 2018, at 1:17 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I put on my wish list as a possible stationary end to mount our whisker on 
> the mast.  
> 
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ronstan-spinnaker-pole-mast-eye-ring-3-1-8in-dia-rf41
>  
> 
> 
> But I need to do a template of the mast to make sure it will fit
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Feb 9, 2018, at 8:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2018 19:20:01 -0500
>> From: Josh Muckley >
>> To: "C List" >
>> Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount
>> Message-ID:
>>> >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Ok Guys,
>> 
>> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
>> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
>> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
>> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
>> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
>> curved leading edge of the mast.
>> 
>> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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