Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

FYI
https://moyermarine.com/product/mmi-502-flange-pump-csob_00_365/

NOTE: For Universal diesel owners, if you you’re currently using an Oberdorfer 
202M-3 or 202M-7 pump, or the newest version of these pumps with an “N” prefix, 
your engine will already have the necessary adapting hardware that is required 
to convert to our MMI 502 Flange Pump. If you’re currently using a pump with 
four bolts in its mounting flange, you will need one of our adaptor plates and 
a shaft adaptor to convert to an MMI 502 Flange Pump (see product numbers 
DIES_01_560 and DIES_02_561.
CSOB_00_365


Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 2:20 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water 
pump upgrade

I'm still researching the correct pump.

I've pretty much determined the issue with the Oberdorfer is the spacing 
between inlet and outlet when one tries to re-use the elbows from the Sherwood. 
 There isn't enough clearance for the second elbow to swing past the first 
elbow.  I think installing one of the elbows then cutting a bit off the barb on 
the second elbow is the solution.  The Oberdorfer N202M-837 is simply an 
Oberdorfer N202M-908 with two short barb elbows and about $70 added to the 
price.

The online pricing for the 908 varies significantly.  Lowest so far is $326.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I’ll need to see what I have, but I believe the pump on my Westerbeke 40 is the 
brass plate version you described.  A significant problem with my pump is 
inadequate suction.  We have looked repeatedly to see if impeller pieces were 
sucked into the system (found a couple).  The suction is so weak that I need to 
do the funnel-from-on-high routine to get the system working after spring 
launch.  I also sometimes need to do the funnel routine after being heeled over 
and bouncing around in bad weather.  I would welcome a more powerful pump.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 1:01 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

For those of us who have Universal or Westerbeke diesels that use the Sherwood 
G908 clamp mount raw water pump, here's some news.  (The Westerbeke number is 
sometimes 42175.)

Changing the impeller on the Sherwood is a bit of a pain because the bolts come 
in from behind.  You can either remove the pump by removing the two clamps, or 
remove the pump case by removing the 3 bolts and lifting the case off.  Then 
you have to make sure the o-ring is properly seated upon reassembly.

Another issue with the Sherwood is that it often leaks.  Unlike many pumps that 
have a shaft seal, the Sherwood impeller seals against a brass wear plate on 
the back of the pump.  If the wear plate, which is fairly thin, bows outward or 
has excessive wear, the pump will leak raw water.  In a salt water environment, 
this tends to have a deleterious effect on the engine front.

I replaced the thin wear plate on my Sherwood with a thicker stainless wear 
plate that I found on eBay.  That helped reduce a nagging leak.

Although I don't need it yet, I found a drop in replacement, Oberdorfer 
N202M-908.  This pump is a more traditional design with shaft seals.  Access to 
the impeller is from the front by removing the cover plate.

The Oberdorfer N202M pump has been around for many years and is a standard 
marine engine raw water pump.  A version is used on the good old Atomic 4. It 
fits many marine diesels by being available in several models.  The differences 
are in the mounts for attaching it to the engine.  Some resourceful boat owners 
have modified Oberdorfer N202M-16's to fit the clamp mount configuration.  
Oberdorfer now offers the clamp mount as the 908 model.

I found one thread on a Catalina owners site which questioned the pumping 
capacity of the Oberdorfer on an M-35 engine.  I was not able to find the 
capacities of the two pumps but found many posts from boatowners who were using 
the Oberdorfer N202 series pumps on various Westerbekes and Universals 
successfully.

The other good news is the Oberdorfer is a fraction of the cost of the Sherwood.

I'm considering replacing the Sherwood with the Oberdorfer even though the 
Sherwood is doing fineright now.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Thanks everyone for supporting t

Re: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm still researching the correct pump.

I've pretty much determined the issue with the Oberdorfer is the spacing
between inlet and outlet when one tries to re-use the elbows from the
Sherwood.  There isn't enough clearance for the second elbow to swing past
the first elbow.  I think installing one of the elbows then cutting a bit
off the barb on the second elbow is the solution.  The Oberdorfer N202M-837
is simply an Oberdorfer N202M-908 with two short barb elbows and about $70
added to the price.

The online pricing for the 908 varies significantly.  Lowest so far is $326.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ll need to see what I have, but I believe the pump on my Westerbeke 40
> is the brass plate version you described.  A significant problem with my
> pump is inadequate suction.  We have looked repeatedly to see if impeller
> pieces were sucked into the system (found a couple).  The suction is so
> weak that I need to do the funnel-from-on-high routine to get the system
> working after spring launch.  I also sometimes need to do the funnel
> routine after being heeled over and bouncing around in bad weather.  I
> would welcome a more powerful pump.
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 29, 2018 1:01 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump
> upgrade
>
> For those of us who have Universal or Westerbeke diesels that use the
> Sherwood G908 clamp mount raw water pump, here's some news.  (The
> Westerbeke number is sometimes 42175.)
>
> Changing the impeller on the Sherwood is a bit of a pain because the bolts
> come in from behind.  You can either remove the pump by removing the two
> clamps, or remove the pump case by removing the 3 bolts and lifting the
> case off.  Then you have to make sure the o-ring is properly seated upon
> reassembly.
>
> Another issue with the Sherwood is that it often leaks.  Unlike many pumps
> that have a shaft seal, the Sherwood impeller seals against a brass wear
> plate on the back of the pump.  If the wear plate, which is fairly thin,
> bows outward or has excessive wear, the pump will leak raw water.  In a
> salt water environment, this tends to have a deleterious effect on the
> engine front.
>
> I replaced the thin wear plate on my Sherwood with a thicker stainless
> wear plate that I found on eBay.  That helped reduce a nagging leak.
>
> Although I don't need it yet, I found a drop in replacement, Oberdorfer
> N202M-908.  This pump is a more traditional design with shaft seals.
> Access to the impeller is from the front by removing the cover plate.
>
> The Oberdorfer N202M pump has been around for many years and is a standard
> marine engine raw water pump.  A version is used on the good old Atomic 4. It
> fits many marine diesels by being available in several models.  The
> differences are in the mounts for attaching it to the engine.  Some
> resourceful boat owners have modified Oberdorfer N202M-16's to fit the
> clamp mount configuration.  Oberdorfer now offers the clamp mount as the
> 908 model.
>
> I found one thread on a Catalina owners site which questioned the pumping
> capacity of the Oberdorfer on an M-35 engine.  I was not able to find the
> capacities of the two pumps but found many posts from boatowners who were
> using the Oberdorfer N202 series pumps on various Westerbekes and
> Universals successfully.
>
> The other good news is the Oberdorfer is a fraction of the cost of the
> Sherwood.
>
> I'm considering replacing the Sherwood with the Oberdorfer even though the
> Sherwood is doing fineright now.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I’ll need to see what I have, but I believe the pump on my Westerbeke 40 is the 
brass plate version you described.  A significant problem with my pump is 
inadequate suction.  We have looked repeatedly to see if impeller pieces were 
sucked into the system (found a couple).  The suction is so weak that I need to 
do the funnel-from-on-high routine to get the system working after spring 
launch.  I also sometimes need to do the funnel routine after being heeled over 
and bouncing around in bad weather.  I would welcome a more powerful pump. 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 1:01 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

For those of us who have Universal or Westerbeke diesels that use the Sherwood 
G908 clamp mount raw water pump, here's some news.  (The Westerbeke number is 
sometimes 42175.) 

Changing the impeller on the Sherwood is a bit of a pain because the bolts come 
in from behind.  You can either remove the pump by removing the two clamps, or 
remove the pump case by removing the 3 bolts and lifting the case off.  Then 
you have to make sure the o-ring is properly seated upon reassembly.

Another issue with the Sherwood is that it often leaks.  Unlike many pumps that 
have a shaft seal, the Sherwood impeller seals against a brass wear plate on 
the back of the pump.  If the wear plate, which is fairly thin, bows outward or 
has excessive wear, the pump will leak raw water.  In a salt water environment, 
this tends to have a deleterious effect on the engine front.

I replaced the thin wear plate on my Sherwood with a thicker stainless wear 
plate that I found on eBay.  That helped reduce a nagging leak.


Although I don't need it yet, I found a drop in replacement, Oberdorfer 
N202M-908.  This pump is a more traditional design with shaft seals.  Access to 
the impeller is from the front by removing the cover plate.

The Oberdorfer N202M pump has been around for many years and is a standard 
marine engine raw water pump.  A version is used on the good old Atomic 4. It 
fits many marine diesels by being available in several models.  The differences 
are in the mounts for attaching it to the engine.  Some resourceful boat owners 
have modified Oberdorfer N202M-16's to fit the clamp mount configuration.  
Oberdorfer now offers the clamp mount as the 908 model.


I found one thread on a Catalina owners site which questioned the pumping 
capacity of the Oberdorfer on an M-35 engine.  I was not able to find the 
capacities of the two pumps but found many posts from boatowners who were using 
the Oberdorfer N202 series pumps on various Westerbekes and Universals 
successfully.

The other good news is the Oberdorfer is a fraction of the cost of the Sherwood.

I'm considering replacing the Sherwood with the Oberdorfer even though the 
Sherwood is doing fineright now.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade - revised

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

In getting a quote on the N202M-908 from Depco Pump, the reply said there
was a fitment issue with the N202M-908 with regard to the 90 degree barb
fittings.  They suggested the N202M-837 instead.

I'm thinking different barb fittings may solve that.  I think the issue is
the inlet and outlet are closer together with the Oberdorfer.  See this
thread:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=8519.0

Also note that it looks like this owner replaced the original wear plate in
the Sherwood.  Note the tab sticking out of the gray pump.



Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 12:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For those of us who have Universal or Westerbeke diesels that use the
> Sherwood G908 clamp mount raw water pump, here's some news.  (The
> Westerbeke number is sometimes 42175.)
>
> Changing the impeller on the Sherwood is a bit of a pain because the bolts
> come in from behind.  You can either remove the pump by removing the two
> clamps, or remove the pump case by removing the 3 bolts and lifting the
> case off.  Then you have to make sure the o-ring is properly seated upon
> reassembly.
>
> Another issue with the Sherwood is that it often leaks.  Unlike many pumps
> that have a shaft seal, the Sherwood impeller seals against a brass wear
> plate on the back of the pump.  If the wear plate, which is fairly thin,
> bows outward or has excessive wear, the pump will leak raw water.  In a
> salt water environment, this tends to have a deleterious effect on the
> engine front.
>
> I replaced the thin wear plate on my Sherwood with a thicker stainless
> wear plate that I found on eBay.  That helped reduce a nagging leak.
>
> Although I don't need it yet, I found a drop in replacement, Oberdorfer
> N202M-908.  This pump is a more traditional design with shaft seals.
> Access to the impeller is from the front by removing the cover plate.
>
> The Oberdorfer N202M pump has been around for many years and is a standard
> marine engine raw water pump.  A version is used on the good old Atomic 4.  It
> fits many marine diesels by being available in several models.  The
> differences are in the mounts for attaching it to the engine.  Some
> resourceful boat owners have modified Oberdorfer N202M-16's to fit the
> clamp mount configuration.  Oberdorfer now offers the clamp mount as the
> 908 model.
>
> I found one thread on a Catalina owners site which questioned the pumping
> capacity of the Oberdorfer on an M-35 engine.  I was not able to find the
> capacities of the two pumps but found many posts from boatowners who were
> using the Oberdorfer N202 series pumps on various Westerbekes and
> Universals successfully.
>
> The other good news is the Oberdorfer is a fraction of the cost of the
> Sherwood.
>
> I'm considering replacing the Sherwood with the Oberdorfer even though the
> Sherwood is doing fineright now.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

For those of us who have Universal or Westerbeke diesels that use the
Sherwood G908 clamp mount raw water pump, here's some news.  (The
Westerbeke number is sometimes 42175.)

Changing the impeller on the Sherwood is a bit of a pain because the bolts
come in from behind.  You can either remove the pump by removing the two
clamps, or remove the pump case by removing the 3 bolts and lifting the
case off.  Then you have to make sure the o-ring is properly seated upon
reassembly.

Another issue with the Sherwood is that it often leaks.  Unlike many pumps
that have a shaft seal, the Sherwood impeller seals against a brass wear
plate on the back of the pump.  If the wear plate, which is fairly thin,
bows outward or has excessive wear, the pump will leak raw water.  In a
salt water environment, this tends to have a deleterious effect on the
engine front.

I replaced the thin wear plate on my Sherwood with a thicker stainless wear
plate that I found on eBay.  That helped reduce a nagging leak.

Although I don't need it yet, I found a drop in replacement, Oberdorfer
N202M-908.  This pump is a more traditional design with shaft seals.
Access to the impeller is from the front by removing the cover plate.

The Oberdorfer N202M pump has been around for many years and is a standard
marine engine raw water pump.  A version is used on the good old Atomic 4.  It
fits many marine diesels by being available in several models.  The
differences are in the mounts for attaching it to the engine.  Some
resourceful boat owners have modified Oberdorfer N202M-16's to fit the
clamp mount configuration.  Oberdorfer now offers the clamp mount as the
908 model.

I found one thread on a Catalina owners site which questioned the pumping
capacity of the Oberdorfer on an M-35 engine.  I was not able to find the
capacities of the two pumps but found many posts from boatowners who were
using the Oberdorfer N202 series pumps on various Westerbekes and
Universals successfully.

The other good news is the Oberdorfer is a fraction of the cost of the
Sherwood.

I'm considering replacing the Sherwood with the Oberdorfer even though the
Sherwood is doing fineright now.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement - now search the email list

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Will give it a go Thanks Dennis ~

John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 10:28:39 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement - now search the 
email list

Search from your browser using this:

 
site:cnc-list.com

Where  = portlight replacement, fixed ports, lens repalacement, etc.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 9:20 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi All,
Just joined on here I am looking to replace my fixed ports (4)  grey hazy 
acrylic? on my 1982 C&C 37
Sure this has been discussed ( recently?) but not sure how to locate the thread 
?
Thanks!

John Conklin


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement - now search the email list

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Search from your browser using this:

 site:cnc-list.com

Where  = portlight replacement, fixed ports, lens repalacement, etc.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 9:20 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Just joined on here I am looking to replace my fixed ports (4)  grey hazy
> acrylic? on my 1982 C&C 37
>
> Sure this has been discussed ( recently?) but not sure how to locate the
> thread ?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> John Conklin
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Hi All,
Just joined on here I am looking to replace my fixed ports (4)  grey hazy 
acrylic? on my 1982 C&C 37
Sure this has been discussed ( recently?) but not sure how to locate the thread 
?
Thanks!

John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Brannon via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 10:01:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brannon
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

I replaced my fixed port lights with BOMAR port lights that open about 10 years 
ago.   They don’t leak, look very much like the originals and I didn’t have to 
do much to fit them.   I still have the frames for the fixed ports if anyone is 
interested.   Please contact me off line.


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1979 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



On Mar 28, 2018, at 9:07 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I replaced mine with a Beckson 4 x 14 with rain gutter from Defender.  $135 
five years ago.  Still, with slope of the bulk head it is mounted in, water 
gathers in lower part if heeled, and when opened will dribble in..
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.


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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I replaced my fixed port lights with BOMAR port lights that open about 10 years 
ago.   They don’t leak, look very much like the originals and I didn’t have to 
do much to fit them.   I still have the frames for the fixed ports if anyone is 
interested.   Please contact me off line.   


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1979 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 28, 2018, at 9:07 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I replaced mine with a Beckson 4 x 14 with rain gutter from Defender.  $135 
> five years ago.  Still, with slope of the bulk head it is mounted in, water 
> gathers in lower part if heeled, and when opened will dribble in..
> Bill Walker
> 1981 CnC 36 
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I use vegetable oil on the o-rings for my poultry feeders.   It works great 
lasts about a season and they get refilled about every other day which means 
that the water doesn’t wash it away.   

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, V


> On Mar 29, 2018, at 7:37 AM, Paul E via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Super Lube!  Stuff works great and it is food grade.  
> 
> | I thought about lubricating the O rings, but couldn't think of anything 
> that I wanted to have in contact with drinking water. 
> |
> | Steve Thomas
> | C&C36 
> | Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

I put on "x" shaped o-rings from McMaster Carr, and lubricated them with teflon 
grease similar to the Super Lube just mentioned, which I highly recommend.  In 
our case, it is teflon grease sold by local pool stores for lubricating pool 
equipment o-rings.  I believe it is also food grade.  

The x-shaped o-rings stopped all the leaking from the caps entirely.
The orings I ordered are:  
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90025K412, though I would 
recommend going one size larger, as they were very tight going around the 
threads of the caps.
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Steve Thomas 
 Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 5:24 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement
  
Thanks for the update Tim.
Disappointing news about Kracor.
Typical unfortunately of what happens when a small company is taken over by a 
large corporation. 

I have observed that the flat tops on the fairly thin roto-moulded tanks bulge 
quite a bit when full, and I have not been successful in stopping the 
clean-outs from leaking either. Like you, I have reached the conclusion that 
this is just a design "feature". I thought about lubricating the O rings, but 
couldn't think of anything that I wanted to have in contact with drinking 
water. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 
Merritt Island, FL

 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote: 
Just to report back on this thread, what follows is my twisted 11-week path
to resolution of a crack in one of my water tanks plus hairline cracks
around the inspection ports, and difficulty getting a good seal on the
Quest fittings on both tanks:

Kracor initially said that they could quote replacement roto-molded tanks,
but when it came down to it, they have been acquired by Yamaha and will now
only quote large quantity orders.

South Shore Yachts was able to quote new tanks from a third party but at
over $1000 each, plus shipping to Florida, seemed cost prohibitive.

Ultimately, I used a Florida tank manufacturer & repair facility, Seelye
Inc., in Ocoee, FL to repair the crack in the tank. The cost to weld an
8-inch crack was $65. They tested it to be leak free but there is no
warranty.

On reassembly, I had trouble getting a seal around the suction fittings,
which are Qest elbows, but found that if I first connected the tubing to
the fitting and then screwed it in, I could get another couple of turns on
the fitting. Both tanks are essentially leak-free except for a little
weeping around the inspection ports if overfilled. I plan to avoid
overfilling.

While at it I also replaced the 4" o-rings on the tank ports (AS568-240),
and on the old-style Jabsco suction strainers (AS568-131) and installed a
Teflon back-up ring (AS568-007) under the strainer cover screw heads.

Now on to the next adventure...

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244



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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Paul E via CnC-List]

Super Lube!  Stuff works great and it is food grade.  

| I thought about lubricating the O rings, but couldn't think of anything that 
I wanted to have in contact with drinking water. 
|
| Steve Thomas
| C&C36 
| Merritt Island, FL



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Stus-List Tank port o ring lubrication

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have used Vaseline for years - works well with no leaks.  Also use on the o
rings for speed transducer

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for the update Tim.
Disappointing news about Kracor.
Typical unfortunately of what happens when a small company is taken over by a 
large corporation. 

I have observed that the flat tops on the fairly thin roto-moulded tanks bulge 
quite a bit when full, and I have not been successful in stopping the 
clean-outs from leaking either. Like you, I have reached the conclusion that 
this is just a design "feature". I thought about lubricating the O rings, but 
couldn't think of anything that I wanted to have in contact with drinking 
water. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 
Merritt Island, FL

 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote: 
Just to report back on this thread, what follows is my twisted 11-week path
to resolution of a crack in one of my water tanks plus hairline cracks
around the inspection ports, and difficulty getting a good seal on the
Quest fittings on both tanks:

Kracor initially said that they could quote replacement roto-molded tanks,
but when it came down to it, they have been acquired by Yamaha and will now
only quote large quantity orders.

South Shore Yachts was able to quote new tanks from a third party but at
over $1000 each, plus shipping to Florida, seemed cost prohibitive.

Ultimately, I used a Florida tank manufacturer & repair facility, Seelye
Inc., in Ocoee, FL to repair the crack in the tank. The cost to weld an
8-inch crack was $65. They tested it to be leak free but there is no
warranty.

On reassembly, I had trouble getting a seal around the suction fittings,
which are Qest elbows, but found that if I first connected the tubing to
the fitting and then screwed it in, I could get another couple of turns on
the fitting. Both tanks are essentially leak-free except for a little
weeping around the inspection ports if overfilled. I plan to avoid
overfilling.

While at it I also replaced the 4" o-rings on the tank ports (AS568-240),
and on the old-style Jabsco suction strainers (AS568-131) and installed a
Teflon back-up ring (AS568-007) under the strainer cover screw heads.

Now on to the next adventure...

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244



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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 head port light

[Mark A Watson via CnC-List]

Len I think you nailed it - thank you this is one of my projects this season.

One thing I found with these port lights is that on my boat because of the 
angle of the coach roof water collects on the lip outside and trickles through 
a day or so after a Heafey sail or rain.  I drilled two drainage holes in the 
lower corner of each flange.  This to a degree worked. However will try bowmar 
for new replacements when it gets dryer. 

Best regards
Mark Watson
C&C Newport 41, 1977
Trinity 




N.B. Sent from the iPad with fewer typos

> On Mar 28, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a 1981 36 and I am not positive but believe the port was made by Bomar. 
> It was plastic with black closure knobs, had a lip on the outside maybe 1 
> inch. Either way, I got a new direct replacement at HMP in Toronto. 
> 
> Len Mitchell
> C&C 37+
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On. 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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