Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

The gap from a 24' to a 27' is much bigger than the gap from a 27' to a 30'. I 
looked at several 30-1 before getting my 27MkII and yeah, they are a bit 
bigger, but really you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference below (or above 
decks) unless you were already familiar with both. As it turns out, I have 
never used the 27 for the purpose I bought her for and in many cases quite 
regret moving from my C&C24 - the boat is just as easy to handle in most 
situations, just more complex: moving from outboard to inboard, porta-potty to 
marine head, wiring blah blah. Both sail wonderfully.
I can't really comment on your 26 vs 27 as I am not familiar with the 26, but 
the 27MkII is a nice boat to sail, can carry more sail in heavier winds than 
the later ones due to more ballast and a slightly shorter mast, but not quite 
as good in the light stuff for the same reasons (I've always thought a MkIII 
rudder would be a nice modification to the MkII though). Of course the MkI is a 
bit stiffer still since the mast is even shorter. Having said that, sounds like 
the 27 you are considering needs a fair bit of work, maybe hold out for a nicer 
one?
FYI, the 26 appears to be pretty much the most tender boat C&C ever built, 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technica/stability.htm
 (for the 27s I believe that diagram shows the C&C designations where Mk1TM is 
what we refer to as the MkII, MkII is what we think of as the MkIII/IV, and 
"New 27" is the MkV). Theoretical measurements of course, but it usually 
translates fairly well into real world tippyness which can often be a factor 
for non-sailing guests/significant others.
Cheers,
Paul.
1974 27' MkII
Sidney, BC

DELLENBAUGH ANGLE - C&C Photo Album & Resource 
Center
This is the angle that the vessel is presumed to heel given a force of 1 pound 
per square foot on the sails, assuming they were all sheeted flat amidships.
www.cncphotoalbum.com




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List 
Sent: October 11, 2018 6:53 AM
To: Richard Bush via CnC-List
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my 
father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who 
complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the 
the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 
27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day 
downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really 
enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I 
feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price.

I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of  
the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;)

I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!!  :)

Chris

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Well done.  Glad it worked out.

From: Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Daniel Cormier 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of 
water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it 
out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone 
for the feedback and tips! 

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List  wrote:


  Dan:
  One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down 
into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on 
mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop into 
their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this is to 
ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not 
to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if 
they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can now 
longer turn the plug.  

  But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the 
padwheel is clean of any debris. 

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - #277
  Halifax, N.S 





On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List  
wrote:

  or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and 
replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but 
you guys seem to think it's a breeze...


  WISH ME LUCK!

  Dan







  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I have pulled many times on other boat so no problem to go for it  but cant 
seem to loosen mine  now on Halcyon ☹ like most thru hulls and valves they were 
used little to 0 in the last few years and fearful if something was to break I 
may not get thigs back together. I need to wait til next Haulout and force it a 
bit . Hopping for the best !
But yes its not a big deal and I have only GPS speed Now  so I want to fix it, 
but don’t want to force it  any thoughts on what might loosen the transducer or 
outer ring?

John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:53:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water rushes 
in.  Remain calm, and have your blank handy.

From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may 
get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the 
bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works.

Gary
30-1

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What Ed says.

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.

Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know w

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of 
water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it 
out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone 
for the feedback and tips!

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dan:
> One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down 
> into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on 
> mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop 
> into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this 
> is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward 
> and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I 
> can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up 
> because I can now longer turn the plug.  
> 
> But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the 
> padwheel is clean of any debris. 
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S 
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>>  or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing 
>>> it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you 
>>> guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>>> 
>>> WISH ME LUCK!
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:
One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit 
down into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be 
differentbut on mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have 
to be lined up to drop into their respective slots on the thru 
hullone obvious reason for this is to ensure you install the 
padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not to a side 
angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if 
they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can 
now longer turn the plug.


But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when 
the padwheel is clean of any debris.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S





On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


 or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and
replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky
business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 6:02 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Having moved up from a 27 MKIII to a 37/40+, I can certainly say that while the 
new bigger boat can easily be single handed once  under way, and I would be 
comfortable taking her to a mooring alone, I'm not ready to go into a tight 
slip without another hand.  Does that keep me from getting out?  Not really, 
but there are times when I'd like to go out truly alone.  And yes,  there are 
many more systems on the bigger boat.  None of those concerns should apply to a 
30 vs a 27.  The 27 will definitely feel tight for 4, as it even was a bit 
cramped for 2. 
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Having moved up from a 27 MKIII to a 37/40+, I can certainly say that while the 
new bigger boat can easily be single handed once  under way, and I would be 
comfortable taking her to a mooring alone, I'm not ready to go into a tight 
slip without another hand.  Does that keep me from getting out?  Not really, 
but there are times when I'd like to go out truly alone.  And yes,  there are 
many more systems on the bigger boat.  None of those concerns should apply to a 
30 vs a 27.  The 27 will definitely feel tight for 4, as it even was a bit 
cramped for 2. 
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
null___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thanks so much Ron!!Cheers


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 4:43 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I do know what you mean about keeping it small.We had a SJ 24, a great boat, 
nimble and quick for its size, like a Porsche.  A little squirrely (sp?) with 
quartering wind and a chute up, but a blast to sail.  We could beat the snot 
out of Erickson 25s and most other 25 & 26 footers boat for boat.  Not any C&C 
since we didn't have any but the 27 in our division at the time.  The 26s 
sailed JAM.Our next boat was the 30-1 we still have.  It was not that much more 
effort to get ready or put to bed and it was more stable under the chute in any 
wind.  It also had human sized proportions and the family could sleep in 
comfort.Never looked back, even though we went from a sports car to a BMW sedan 
(figuratively speaking).The boat does telegraph back info like a great boat 
should.  And it responds well, so it's more nimble than many 30s out there.  
Compared to some 30s out there today, it's a small 30.  Some seem like a camper 
with a stick!You will probably enjoy any one you choose; 26, 27 or 30-1.RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Just move quickly on the replacement plug. Very simple.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What Ed says.

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)

I've got:
GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
Black, and Shield to Ground IN
Red to Speed Voltage IN
Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
Brown to nothing

With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. 
Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get 
speed sentences?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contri

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I do know what you mean about keeping it small.We had a SJ 24, a great boat, 
nimble and quick for its size, like a Porsche.  A little squirrely (sp?) with 
quartering wind and a chute up, but a blast to sail.  We could beat the snot 
out of Erickson 25s and most other 25 & 26 footers boat for boat.  Not any C&C 
since we didn't have any but the 27 in our division at the time.  The 26s 
sailed JAM.Our next boat was the 30-1 we still have.  It was not that much more 
effort to get ready or put to bed and it was more stable under the chute in any 
wind.  It also had human sized proportions and the family could sleep in 
comfort.Never looked back, even though we went from a sports car to a BMW sedan 
(figuratively speaking).The boat does telegraph back info like a great boat 
should.  And it responds well, so it's more nimble than many 30s out there.  
Compared to some 30s out there today, it's a small 30.  Some seem like a camper 
with a stick!You will probably enjoy any one you choose; 26, 27 or 30-1.RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It really isn't a big deal to pull a transducer and replace it with a
plug.  I just pull the transducer until it's nearly out, have the plug in
the other hand and make the swap fairly quickly.  If you do it quickly,
you'll get less than a pint of water in the boat.  Probably done it
hundreds of times.

Also, some transducer thru hull fittings have a flapper valve which closes
and shuts off flow.  If yours is one of those, you'll get very little water
in the boat.

The only downside I see is getting tiny salt water critters in the bilge
where they might cause a smell.  Easily resolved by flushing with dock
water.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and
> replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business
> but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>
> WISH ME LUCK!
>
> Dan
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List paddle wheel

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

On a regular basis we floss the hull with a long thin line and get the paddle 
going again. ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,  I had Septima for 24 years.  She has a winged keel.  Sails really
fast and high if you limit heel to 17-18 degrees and no more than 4 degrees
rudder. I marked the leather wheel cover to indicate 4 degrees port or
starboard.  Helms person puts approprite mark TDC, tells main trimmer, who
is playing mainsail lateral position with the Harken windward car on
traveler mounted on bridge deck, how helm feels.  Too light, raise car, too
heavy, lower car an inch.  The keel's foils are very efficient at racing
speeds.  You don't want to stall them out.

Allen Miles
former Aeronautical Engineer

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 11:11 AM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Doug, I'm just finishing my second season with my 30-2 and absolutely
>> love it! Although I don't race mine it would make an excellent race boat
>> and could be sailed to her rating fairly easily. I do my racing on a
>> friend's J35, so I don't need to spend the extra for the fancy sails for my
>> own boat. I have heard of some 30-2's that are raced very successfully on
>> Lake Ontario. I put on over 600nm each year cruising on Lake Superior and
>> this boat does it all very well. I've crossed the lake each year heading
>> down to Bayfield, she handles the big water with ease, but does like to be
>> reefed fairly early. I'm not sure if I would want the wing keel version?
>> Being a racer at heart, I do like how she points and it is a relatively
>> tender boat compared to other C&C's, so I'm just not willing to give up the
>> performance edge for a few inches of draft. Feel free to contact me at
>> svmeand...@gmail.com if you want anymore feed back on the 30-2.
>
>
> As it's snowing here today I am going to haul out this afternoon :(
>
> Reagrds,
>
> Morgan Ellis
> SV Meandher 30-2 #140
> Thunder Bay, ON
>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I find that a towel about 2 feet square is very helpful for pulling the
speed wheel.  I stage the plug near the wheel and then place the towel over
top with the edges all tucked into the sump.  I work on the cabin side or
"top" of the towel, the wheel and plug being underneath.  I grab the wheel
in one hand (with the towel) and grab the plug in the other hand (with the
towel).  The draping edges of the towel stay in the bilge sump area and as
I withdraw the wheel the towel catches the geyser keeping the water in the
bilge.  The plug is in my other hand ready to be inserted.

Sometimes letting some water accumulate in the sump helps to reduce the
geyser effect as well.  I keep a medium bristle tooth brush in the sump to
scrub the wheel.  The extra water is nice for rinsing.  The wet towel is
rung out there in the sump and then used to clean up any drips or spills.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 10:59 AM Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
> not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside
> of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water
> around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt.
> The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach
> the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out
> completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely
> risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>
> WISH ME LUCK!
>
> Dan
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What Ed says.
>>
>> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go
>> sailing.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks guys.
>>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
>>> there's no current lol.
>>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
>>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
>>> under to spin the wheel manually...
>>>
>>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so
>>> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
>>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
>>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
>>> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not
 discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

 *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Edward Levert 
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 Dan

 The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
 transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
 paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
 guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
 the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
 your problem.

 Ed Levert
 C&C 34 Briar Patch
 New Orleans

 On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm
> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the
> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you
> know where I'm going wrong?
>
> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart
> sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>
> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav
> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no 
> temperature
> data)
>
> I've got:
> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what 

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred, that's very interesting... I had success with the temperature
so far. If I connect the yellow with red stripe wire, to temp, and white
wire to temp ground I get an accurate temperature reading so I know that
part is currently working... I'm assuming that also closes the circuit.
I could just take the boat out for a run, but I can't mess with wires while
driving around so I think I'm going to try pulling the sensor tonight and
see how it goes. It probably needs a good inspection and cleaning anyway. I
do have the necessary plug to replace it so fingers crossed - at least I'll
have this experience to draw upon in the future.

Dan


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 1:16 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Airmar transducer would not show speed.
> We discovered the water temp circuit was open. The speed will not work if
> the thermistor is not functional. I did not need the temp info, so we put
> in a 15 ohm
> resistor to replace the open circuit. That was over 5 years ago and it
> worked like a charm.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:54 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water
>> rushes in.  Remain calm, and have your blank handy.
>>
>> *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Gary Nylander 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>
>>
>> Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You
>> may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into
>> the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 30-1
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Dan 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>
>>
>>
>> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
>> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
>> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
>> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
>> not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
>>
>> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the
>> underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move
>> the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the
>> attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try
>> to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the
>> sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds
>> like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>>
>>
>>
>> WISH ME LUCK!
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> What Ed says.
>>
>>
>>
>> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go
>> sailing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ed Levert
>>
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>>
>> New Orleans
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
>> there's no current lol.
>>
>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
>> under to spin the wheel manually...
>>
>>
>>
>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so
>> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
>> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not
>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>>
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
>> transducer for the ST 60. It stop

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Dan,
  If you have the correct plug to replace the sensor it isnt risky at all.  
Done it many times on every boat I have owned.  Just do.it.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.

Bill Walker 

On Thursday, October 11, 2018 Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 

That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...


WISH ME LUCK!


Dan


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

What Ed says. 


I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 


Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dan


You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.


Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

Thanks guys.

Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.

I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...


Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?


Dan


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

 

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Edward Levert 

Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

Dan

 

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

 

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?

 

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

 

With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)

 

I've got:

GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)

Black, and Shield to Ground IN

Red to Speed Voltage IN

Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN

Brown to nothing

 

With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. 
Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get 
speed sentences?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C&C44

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- 

Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:

The first time I pulled the transducer/padwheel, it was a unnervingI 
hadn't even removed one while on the hard let alone in 36' of water.   
Have your factory 'blank' in one hand (and I even now carry a wooden 
plug just in case), pull up, a gush of water, insert the blank/plug 
securely, I repeat securely.


Do the same when replacing the transducer/padwheelit gets less 
stressful after the first time. I have it down now to where I get maybe 
half a quart/litre of saltwater per pull. that water drains into my 
bilge so it really doesn't matter to me.


My padwheel has stopped spinning while sailingI've pulled it under 
sail to clear the debris preventing it to spin.   When I pull it, I can 
spin it with a finger, drop it and quickly go to the cockpit to see if 
there is any speed showing on the panelusually I get there around 2 
knots and watch it drop back to 0.00 knots.


Or get someone around you that has done it before and watch closely to 
see how easy it is.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-10-11 11:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA 
product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and 
they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be 
formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the 
padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the 
underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to 
move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I 
gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in 
the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the 
bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with 
the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys 
seem to think it's a breeze...


WISH ME LUCK!

Dan




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Hi Don,

I have a 3 blade Campbell Sailor that replaced a Martec folding 2 blade
shortly after I got the boat.  The Martec was not always opening properly
and was causing some issues.

The Campbell Sailor pushes my boat fine to hull speed for long distances.
I really don’t know how to judge or compare a prop tough since it’s all I
really have experience with.  The Martec did seem to exibit a lot less prop
walk in reverse tough.

Cheers,
  Jeremy
  C&C34-1 #41


---Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:35 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

Hi

Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat.  Has
anybody got any experience with it?

Thanks
Don
Andante,
Victoria
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My Airmar transducer would not show speed.
We discovered the water temp circuit was open. The speed will not work if
the thermistor is not functional. I did not need the temp info, so we put
in a 15 ohm
resistor to replace the open circuit. That was over 5 years ago and it
worked like a charm.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:54 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water
> rushes in.  Remain calm, and have your blank handy.
>
> *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Gary Nylander 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
> Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You
> may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into
> the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
>
> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
> not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
>
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside
> of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water
> around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt.
> The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach
> the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out
> completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely
> risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>
>
>
> WISH ME LUCK!
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What Ed says.
>
>
>
> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>
>
>
> Ed Levert
>
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
> there's no current lol.
>
> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
> under to spin the wheel manually...
>
>
>
> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I
> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover
> the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>
>
>
> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
> your problem.
>
>
>
> Ed Levert
>
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying
> to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is
> with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where
> I'm going wrong?
>
>
>
> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor"
> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>
>
>
> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer
> and the black and shield were

Re: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If I went through the pain of replacing the prop. I would go for one of the 
folding or feathering props. At least you would be putting the money on a major 
improvement.
Having said that, I am still on a 2-blade Michigan Sailer.

Marek

From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

Hi

Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat.  Has 
anybody got any experience with it?

Thanks
Don
Andante,
Victoria

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7C%7Ccd20b3e9fdff47b6118108d62f86d4a7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636748653466507431&sdata=brypVNdMVX%2FDakiNe%2BPKa3%2BY9e1qpXwnwRgbZp0zwp4%3D&reserved=0

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I have a Campbell Sailer on my 30-1. Very happy with it. Nice people to deal 
with it too.

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:35 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat.  Has 
> anybody got any experience with it?
> 
> Thanks
> Don
> Andante, 
> Victoria
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water rushes 
in.  Remain calm, and have your blank handy.

From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may 
get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the 
bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. 

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 

That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

 

WISH ME LUCK!

 

Dan

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

  What Ed says. 

   

  I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 

   

  Dennis C.

  Sent from my iPhone


  On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Dan

 

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the 
boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the 
plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person 
spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

 

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Thanks guys.

  Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and 
there's no current lol.

  I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it 
to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under 
to spin the wheel manually...

   

  Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so 
I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for 
"0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel 
isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even 
a "0.0.0"?

   

  Dan

   

  On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not 
discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

 

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Edward Levert 

Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

Dan

 

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar 
transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the 
paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is 
that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle 
creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

 

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm 
trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue 
is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where 
I'm going wrong?

   

  ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart 
sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

   

  With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav 
computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature 
data)

   

  I've got:

  GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)

  Black, and Shield to Ground IN

  Red to Speed Voltage IN

  Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN

  Brown to nothing

   

  With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but 
no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I still find it a little unnerving to swap the paddle wheel out with a plug—you 
and your cabin sole will definitely get wet no matter how practiced you are.

OTOH, neither you nor the sole will melt or wash away and the brief gusher 
gives you an idea of why a holed bottom will overcome ANY bulge pump, manual or 
electric.

I am not able to do this with one hand however. Once the gusher begins, I hold 
onto the plug with both hands to fight the water pressure and align/screw in 
the plug. 
If I am not immediately successful, I put the paddle wheel back in and figure 
out what went wrong!

Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Dan

Had first time worried back in the 1970’s. Pull the transducer with one hand 
and inset the plug with the other. Good luck

Ed Levert


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
What Ed says. 

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
 
From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
 
Dan
 
The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.
 
Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans
 
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?
 
***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
 
With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)
 
I've got:
GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
Black, and Shield to Ground IN
Red to Speed Voltage IN
Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
Brown to nothing
 
With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no
Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning 
to get speed sentences?
 
Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for support

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Same here, I pull the paddle wheel every time I leave the boat to 
prevent growth on it.  Water going's to spray in, but it's no big deal.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 10/11/2018 11:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:


Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. 
You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and 
drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and 
see if it works.


Gary

30-1

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan 
via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Dan 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA 
product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and 
they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be 
formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the 
padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)...


That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the 
underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to 
move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I 
gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in 
the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the 
bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with 
the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys 
seem to think it's a breeze...


WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


What Ed says.

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go
sailing.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the
transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of
pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done
quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person
spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks guys.

Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in
the slip and there's no current lol.

I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat
and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in
the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel
manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA
0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line.
I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or
any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences
at all? not even a "0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom
paint.  I did not discover the nature of the problem
was until the boat was out of the water.

*From:*Edward Levert via CnC-List


*Sent:*Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Cc:*Edward Levert 

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I
have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped
giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean
and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
guess is that the build up of bottom paint was
blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates.
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
your problem.

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
wrote:

Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature
transducer that I'm trying to get working (again)
with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue
is with the wiring so if any of you have this
transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong?

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pre

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may 
get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the 
bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. 

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 

That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

 

WISH ME LUCK!

 

Dan

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

What Ed says. 

 

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 

 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dan

 

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

 

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks guys.

Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.

I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

 

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

 

Dan

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

 

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Edward Levert   

Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

Dan

 

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

 

Ed Levert

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?

 

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

 

With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)

 

I've got:

GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)

Black, and Shield to Ground IN

Red to Speed Voltage IN

Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN

Brown to nothing

 

With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. 
Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get 
speed sentences?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C&C44

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


  _  


___

Tha

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 What about taking the boat out for "spin"?
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 600; 
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dan via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Dan 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
WISH ME LUCK!
Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

What Ed says. 
I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List  
wrote:


Dan
You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
Ed LevertC&C 34 Briar PatchNew Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

Thanks guys.Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip 
and there's no current lol.I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the 
boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and 
try to reach under to spin the wheel manually...
Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?
Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward 
Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues 
Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar 
transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the 
paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is 
that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle 
creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. 
Ed LevertC&C 34 Briar PatchNew Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via 
CnC-List  wrote:

  Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?
   ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.   With my old system 
ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav computer and the black and 
shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)   I've got: GREEN to 
Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
 Black, and Shield to Ground IN
 Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing   With 
this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone 
know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed 
sentences?
   Dan Breakaweigh C&C44 Halifax, NS
      ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support t

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dan

Had first time worried back in the 1970’s. Pull the transducer with one hand 
and inset the plug with the other. Good luck

Ed Levert


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
> using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
> the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses 
> will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a 
> wiring issue (95% certain)... 
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
> the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
> the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
> other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
> with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
> and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky 
> business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
> 
> WISH ME LUCK!
> 
> Dan
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> What Ed says. 
>> 
>> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the 
>>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting 
>>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a 
>>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>>> 
>>> Ed Levert
>>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>>> New Orleans
>>> 
 On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  
 wrote:
 Thanks guys.
 Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and 
 there's no current lol.
 I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it 
 to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach 
 under to spin the wheel manually...
 
 Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I 
 can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for 
 "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the 
 padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at 
 all? not even a "0.0.0"?
 
 Dan
 
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not 
> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the 
> water.
>  
> From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edward Levert
> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>  
> Dan
>  
> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar 
> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though 
> the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. 
> My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse 
> signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint 
> might solve your problem.
>  
> Ed Levert
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
>  
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm 
>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the 
>> issueis with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe 
>> you know where I'm going wrong?
>>  
>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" 
>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>>  
>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav 
>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no 
>> temperature data)
>>  
>> I've got:
>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN
>> Red to Speed Voltage IN
>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
>> Brown to nothing
>>  
>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no 
>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be 
>> turning to get speed sentences?
>>  
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C&C44
>> Halifax, NS
>>  
>>  
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

>
> Hi Doug, I'm just finishing my second season with my 30-2 and absolutely
> love it! Although I don't race mine it would make an excellent race boat
> and could be sailed to her rating fairly easily. I do my racing on a
> friend's J35, so I don't need to spend the extra for the fancy sails for my
> own boat. I have heard of some 30-2's that are raced very successfully on
> Lake Ontario. I put on over 600nm each year cruising on Lake Superior and
> this boat does it all very well. I've crossed the lake each year heading
> down to Bayfield, she handles the big water with ease, but does like to be
> reefed fairly early. I'm not sure if I would want the wing keel version?
> Being a racer at heart, I do like how she points and it is a relatively
> tender boat compared to other C&C's, so I'm just not willing to give up the
> performance edge for a few inches of draft. Feel free to contact me at
> svmeand...@gmail.com if you want anymore feed back on the 30-2.


As it's snowing here today I am going to haul out this afternoon :(

Reagrds,

Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher 30-2 #140
Thunder Bay, ON

>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Four feet on a boat is a bigger deal than you may think.  My 34 weighed about 
10,000 pounds; my 42 weighs about 20,000 pounds.  Only eight feet longer 
(approximately 20%), but twice as much boat.

From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

We are talking 4’ here :) 

I’d need a 36-38’ boat if I’m really looking for space and privacy :) 

I’m an ice climber and mountaineer. I’ve spent two weeks in a tent pinned down 
in snow and wind. To me, a 10’ x 18’ space is palatial lol. 

I spend a majority of my time under the sun and in the wind on deck. I think 
that’s what it’s all about...right?? :) Give me a working cockpit and a 
reasonable place to lay my bones when the sun drops and I’m a Happy man. 

All relative I suppose :)

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 10:39 AM, Steve Staten via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  As the owner of a 26’, I have to agree with everyone on all points. Granted, 
this is my first boat with no prior sailing experience on my part. I cannot 
speak with experience concerning the advantages of one size over another. 



  I CAN say that I would not care to spend a weekend sailing with more than one 
other adult-sized person in my boat. I just like my personal space, that’s all. 
I go sailing to get away from people. 



  Steve Staten

  “C’ Est La Vie” 26’

  Langley, Oklahoma  

  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 BINGO Matt!!!
Serves your needs for you and your growing family. My son is 25 and out on his 
own. I have my daughters every other weekend and a few week days. I guide rock 
throughout the summer and am not able to dedicate large chunks of time to 
sailing. She'd be an hour and a half away so I could do some evening drifts 
along the coast, some day-sails and overnights when I have the girlsthe 
same if my some visits and wants to get out on the water. 
I think it's being true to your needs at whatever stage one is at at the time 
:)C
On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 10:55:04 AM EDT, Matthew L. Wolford via 
CnC-List  wrote:  
 
 At bottom, it depends how you intend to use the boat.  I started with a Ranger 
26, which was a fun boat but was too small for me.  I moved up to a C&C 34, 
which was good for my growing family and still manageable for me and my wife.  
However, she enjoys taking friends out sailing on summer evenings, and the 
cockpit of the 34 limited the number of people we could accommodate.  In 
addition: a) I cross Lake Erie a few times during the summer (including 
racing), and there were times I wish I had a little more boat under me; and b) 
I have three boys, and I wanted a boat big enough to accommodate them and their 
friends if they wanted to do some racing (including overnights at other ports). 
 My 42 addressed all of these issues.  The first time we went out, I was 
concerned that I had gotten into too much boat.  Now, I’m very comfortable with 
it, and I’m glad to be on “the beast” when pounding through large waves.  It is 
more work for sure, and everything is more expensive; but for now it is still a 
good fit.  I will likely downsize to a newer, somewhat smaller boat with a 
large cockpit as my interests change.  From: Chris Graham via CnC-List Sent: 
Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:53 AMTo: Richard Bush via CnC-List Cc: Chris 
Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? I really do appreciate the 
feedback and encouragement. I watched my father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to 
move up to a 34' to appease his wife who complained that she was "hot and 
bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the the 34'er and again on their 37'. 
I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 27'er, and it has stuck with me 
ever since. I never regretted for a day downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and 
felt I was getting closer to what I really enjoyed about sailing. I have some 
time here to see what is out there but I feel no real pull toward a 30' boat 
regardless of initial purchase price.  I am pretty steadfast in my desire to 
keep it small and manageable. My days of  the "bigger is better" trap is one I 
don't wish to fall into again ;) I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a 
one bedroom!!  :) Chris On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard 
Bush via CnC-List  wrote:    I second David's comments; 
when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never dawned on me that I would be 
trading up; however, there is a growth curve that happens once you get on the 
boat and learn how it functions and how to use the boat;  After having the boat 
for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat (a J-29), and I remember 
thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began a progression similar to 
many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and currently, a 37:   
 Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255  -Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next town gave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.
 With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.  
 Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.
 David F. Risch, J. D.Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
(401) 419-4650 
 From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?  Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats 
in this range are too big to be easily handled with a small crew.  IMO you are 
unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 after having bought a 30.  You described the 
condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot of work.  There 
are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be another one 
tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very w

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Dan via CnC-List]

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside
of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water
around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt.
The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach
the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out
completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely
risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What Ed says.
>
> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dan
>
> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>
> Ed Levert
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks guys.
>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
>> there's no current lol.
>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
>> under to spin the wheel manually...
>>
>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so
>> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
>> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not
>>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>>>
>>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
>>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
>>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
>>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
>>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
>>> your problem.
>>>
>>> Ed Levert
>>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>>> New Orleans
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm
 trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the
 issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you
 know where I'm going wrong?

 ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor"
 one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

 With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B&G nav
 computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature
 data)

 I've got:
 GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
 Black, and Shield to Ground IN
 Red to Speed Voltage IN
 Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
 Brown to nothing

 With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no
 Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be
 turning to get speed sentences?

 Dan
 Breakaweigh
 C&C44
 Halifax, NS



 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 --
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting thi

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

At bottom, it depends how you intend to use the boat.  I started with a Ranger 
26, which was a fun boat but was too small for me.  I moved up to a C&C 34, 
which was good for my growing family and still manageable for me and my wife.  
However, she enjoys taking friends out sailing on summer evenings, and the 
cockpit of the 34 limited the number of people we could accommodate.  In 
addition: a) I cross Lake Erie a few times during the summer (including 
racing), and there were times I wish I had a little more boat under me; and b) 
I have three boys, and I wanted a boat big enough to accommodate them and their 
friends if they wanted to do some racing (including overnights at other ports). 
 My 42 addressed all of these issues.  The first time we went out, I was 
concerned that I had gotten into too much boat.  Now, I’m very comfortable with 
it, and I’m glad to be on “the beast” when pounding through large waves.  It is 
more work for sure, and everything is more expensive; but for now it is still a 
good fit.  I will likely downsize to a newer, somewhat smaller boat with a 
large cockpit as my interests change. 

From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:53 AM
To: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my 
father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who 
complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the 
the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 
27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day 
downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really 
enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I 
feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. 

I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of  
the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;)

I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!!  :)

Chris

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote: 



I second David's comments; when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never 
dawned on me that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve that 
happens once you get on the boat and learn how it functions and how to use the 
boat;  After having the boat for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat 
(a J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began 
a progression similar to many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and 
currently, a 37:   


Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:

Richard N. Bush

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?


Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next town gave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.


With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.  


Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.


David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 





From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? 

Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are too big to be easily 
handled with a small crew.  IMO you are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 
after having bought a 30. 

You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)

Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.  

The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.

My $.02

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham  wrote:


  Thanks Bruce! 

  I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 

  I do 

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

We are talking 4’ here :)
I’d need a 36-38’ boat if I’m really looking for space and privacy :) 
I’m an ice climber and mountaineer. I’ve spent two weeks in a tent pinned down 
in snow and wind. To me, a 10’ x 18’ space is palatial lol. 
I spend a majority of my time under the sun and in the wind on deck. I think 
that’s what it’s all about...right?? :) Give me a working cockpit and a 
reasonable place to lay my bones when the sun drops and I’m a Happy man. 
All relative I suppose :)
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 10:39 AM, Steve Staten via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 
As the owner of a 26’, I have to agree with everyone on all points. Granted, 
this is my first boat with no prior sailing experience on my part. I cannot 
speak with experience concerning the advantages of one size over another.
 
  
 
I CAN say that I would not care to spend a weekend sailing with more than one 
other adult-sized person in my boat. I just like my personal space, that’s all. 
I go sailing to get away from people. 
 
  
 
Steve Staten
 
“C’ Est La Vie” 26’
 
Langley, Oklahoma 
 ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Steve Staten via CnC-List]

As the owner of a 26’, I have to agree with everyone on all points. Granted, 
this is my first boat with no prior sailing experience on my part. I cannot 
speak with experience concerning the advantages of one size over another.

I CAN say that I would not care to spend a weekend sailing with more than one 
other adult-sized person in my boat. I just like my personal space, that’s all. 
I go sailing to get away from people.

Steve Staten
“C’ Est La Vie” 26’
Langley, Oklahoma
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Don

In Nova Scotia there were a number of boats that went to the Campbell Sailor 
three blade.  The rationale was that it received PHRF credits for three blade 
but had a drag similar to two blade.  The PHRF adjustments later changed such 
that a 2 blade and a 3 blade fixed prop had the same credit.  I have not heard 
anything bad about the performance under motor

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

Hi

Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat.  Has 
anybody got any experience with it?

Thanks
Don
Andante, 
Victoria

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi

Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat.  Has 
anybody got any experience with it?

Thanks
Don
Andante, 
Victoria

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

IMHO in this depressed market for boats, I would get a 30 if there is any 
chance that would be the boat you would end up with anyway.
Size vs. use is different for different people. I cannot see how I would use my 
boat more if she was 5 or 10 feet shorter or use her less if she was 5 or 10 
feet longer. I still have to untie all the dock lines, motor out of the marina, 
set a sail or two, douse a sail or two, motor back in, and tie up the docklines.
What happens to bigger boats is you get more stuff and want to keep all that 
stuff working. Most 26 foot boat owners are not spending the day fixing the AIS 
feed to the plotter and adding ground radials to the SSB. You don’t HAVE to 
have that stuff on a bigger boat either, but usually you do add more things to 
fill all the new space you have. Well maybe I was wrong after all, if there are 
X sailing hours a year I spend a subset of X fixing things a 25 foot boat just 
wouldn’t have.
Here is a big division: Outboard vs. Inboard. Outboards are put in the trunk 
and taken to the shop to be fixed or heaved in the dumpster and replaced when 
they don’t work. Inboards, not so much, usually much more $$$ to fix or 
replace. New engine and shop rate to install is usually more than the boat is 
worth.
Sails are another division. Sails seem to go up more like X squared than X. Big 
boat sails can get expensive! 30 is still on the good side of this though.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35  MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Graham 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

But boy you guys are good!!! Lol

And I do appreciate the suggestions and comments. I tend to overthink and over 
reaserch sometimes but have always found it helpful to get multiple view 
points... particularly from the source. It’s great to have such an active, 
knowledgeable, and supportive group here!

I know, regardless of my decision, I have a great resource here on the forum.

Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I second David's comments; when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never 
dawned on me that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve that 
happens once you get on the boat and learn how it functions and how to use the 
boat;  After having the boat for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat 
(a J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began 
a progression similar to many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and 
currently, a 37:

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next town gave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are too big to be easily 
handled with a small crew.  IMO you are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 
after having bought a 30.

You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)

Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.

The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.

My $.02

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham 
mailto:sabre28...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
Thanks Bruce!

I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down.

I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed t

Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Most 30-1’s are ‘regular’ draft and 174 across the country. Happy with my first 
‘big’ boat for 24 years now, and lots of hardware. Easy to cruise with two.

Gary

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

 

Hi Doug

 

US Sailing shows Chesapeake reporting C&C 30-2 at 150 and C&C 30-2 WK at 162.  
That is from the 2016 book.  It also shows C&C 30-1 SD at 180

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

 

I am thinking of moving up from racing my C&C 24.  The 30 MKII has many 
features I am wanting in the next racer cruiser.

 

I wonder how the wing keel performs.  Chesapeake PHRF rating is 180 vs 150 for 
standard keel.

 

I have won a few ragattas the last year with the 24, but ready for a boat to 
also cruise some with the wife.

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

s/v Red Sky

1976 C&C 24

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

But boy you guys are good!!! Lol 
And I do appreciate the suggestions and comments. I tend to overthink and over 
reaserch sometimes but have always found it helpful to get multiple view 
points... particularly from the source. It’s great to have such an active, 
knowledgeable, and supportive group here! 
I know, regardless of my decision, I have a great resource here on the forum. 
Chris   


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 
 I second David's comments; when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never 
dawned on me that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve that 
happens once you get on the boat and learn how it functions and how to use the 
boat;  After having the boat for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat 
(a J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began 
a progression similar to many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and 
currently, a 37:   

Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

#yiv7396374929 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  
Have patience with looking.   Someone in the next towngave away a decent 30' to 
a deserving family who would use and love the boat as it  was by its original 
owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.  

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.

David F. Risch, J. D.GulfStreamAssociates,LLC 
(401) 419-4650 

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in 
this range are too big to be easily handled with a small crew.  IMO you are 
unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 after having bought a 30.
You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)
Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.  
The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.
My $.02
Dave 
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham  wrote:


Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.
Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from Samsung tablet___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







|  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |

___

Thanks everyone

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Storage and mooring costs are usually linear, so the difference between a 27 
and 30 ft. is marginal. The upkeep costs (new anything, maintenance etc.) in my 
view go with the square of the length (or faster). The same applies to 
maintenance labour.

However (and I would be a bit contrarian here), I heard it said that the bigger 
the boat, the less often you would sail. I am not sure about it myself, but 
there is something to it – if you have limited time, you may think twice about 
going out, if the prep time is longer.

just my 2 cents

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Chris Graham via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 08:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Thanks Bruce!

I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down.

I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :)

You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice.

Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :)

Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for 
iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.

Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.

Just my $.02 worth,

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from Samsung tablet
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my 
father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who 
complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the 
the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 
27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day 
downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really 
enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I 
feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. 
I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of  
the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;)
I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!!  :)
Chris
On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
  
 I second David's comments; when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never 
dawned on me that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve that 
happens once you get on the boat and learn how it functions and how to use the 
boat;  After having the boat for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat 
(a J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began 
a progression similar to many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and 
currently, a 37:   

Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next towngave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.  

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.

David F. Risch, J. D.GulfStreamAssociates,LLC 
(401) 419-4650 

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in 
this range are too big to be easily handled with a small crew.  IMO you are 
unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 after having bought a 30.
You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)
Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.  
The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.
My $.02
Dave 
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham  wrote:


Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.
Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from Samsung tab

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 
 I second David's comments; when I bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never 
dawned on me that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve that 
happens once you get on the boat and learn how it functions and how to use the 
boat;  After having the boat for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat 
(a J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle this!  Thus began 
a progression similar to many on this list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and 
currently, a 37:   

Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 600:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

#yiv1121072735 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  
Have patience with looking.   Someone in the next towngave away a decent 30' to 
a deserving family who would use and love the boat as it  was by its original 
owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.  

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.

David F. Risch, J. D.GulfStreamAssociates,LLC 
(401) 419-4650 

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in 
this range are too big to be easily handled with a small crew.  IMO you are 
unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 after having bought a 30.
You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)
Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.  
The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.
My $.02
Dave 
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham  wrote:


Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.
Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from Samsung tablet___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







|  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 The 30' C&C is a beautiful boat by the way! I understand the push to consider 
it.  :)C
On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 8:22:31 AM EDT, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Thank you Fred. 
The 30’s in my area are far too rich for my blood but I’ll keep my eyes open. 
I’m not pulling the trigger on either boat until the spring. Maybe something 
comes available between now and then. 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 8:18 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chris — I’ll chime in in favor of the 30mkI, having owned a 1981 for several 
years before we moved up to our Landfall 38.  The 30 was my first boat, and I 
was worried about single-handing her; when I first came aboard, it seemed 
enormous!  But learning on that boat was a joy; it really took care of me, and 
I was always sure of its ability to handle weather.  These, along with the 
additional space down below, are, I think, really good reasons for you to 
consider a 30 over a 26 or 27.  I think you’d be happier in the end.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:10 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:
Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[David via CnC-List]

Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with looking.   Someone in the 
next town gave away a decent 30' to a deserving family who would use and love 
the boat as it  was by its original owner.  Its not always the money.

With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go for the 30, you 
will be trading up within 5 years anyway) you can find with all the work done, 
sails purchased etc. and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick 
to and offer.  They can only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic 
(emotional) reasons.

Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the country to help if its 
not local to you.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
To: Chris Graham
Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are too big to be easily 
handled with a small crew.  IMO you are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 
after having bought a 30.

You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)

Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.

The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.

My $.02

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham 
mailto:sabre28...@yahoo.com>> wrote:

Thanks Bruce!

I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down.

I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :)

You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice.

Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :)

Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.

Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.

Just my $.02 worth,

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from Samsung tablet
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 26/27 vs 30

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Chris

You mention costs. A friend once told me that 30 feet seems to be the size 
above which the costs of all gear/maintenance etc becomes much more costly and 
less than 30 where it is much less costly.  He worded it better than that.  
Basic concept was that gear, sails, etc under 30 feet are relatively affordable 
and start to double over 30 feet.  Having gone from 23, 26, 27 ft boats to a 33 
I will say that he was correct.  OTOH a 33 id a lot more boat and a lot nices 
to stay aboard than the Niagara 26 we had (George Hinterhoeller built)

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Graham 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

Thanks Bruce!

I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down.

I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :)

You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice.

Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :)

Chris


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are too big to be easily 
handled with a small crew.  IMO you are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 
after having bought a 30.

You described the condition of the 27 in some detail and it clearly needs a lot 
of work.  There are tons of tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be 
another one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well maintained 
boat - someone else’s labour of love. (Money pit)

Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’ equipment and be disciplined 
about that too.  

The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can quickly exceed its 
acquisition cost.

My $.02

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Bruce!
> 
> I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
> sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
> down. 
> 
> I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
> committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
> were to present itself. :) 
> 
> You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
> dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
> road and make the right choice. 
> 
> Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
> classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
> 
> Chris 
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
> 
> On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing 
> about the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  
> which made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 
> 6.4 in about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I 
> would be less optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, 
> albeit to a friend in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but 
> also did not have roller furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she 
> ought to be $2,500 or even less.
> 
> Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
> recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
> better condition.
> 
> Just my $.02 worth,
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Doug

US Sailing shows Chesapeake reporting C&C 30-2 at 150 and C&C 30-2 WK at 162.  
That is from the 2016 book.  It also shows C&C 30-1 SD at 180

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?

I am thinking of moving up from racing my C&C 24.  The 30 MKII has many 
features I am wanting in the next racer cruiser.

I wonder how the wing keel performs.  Chesapeake PHRF rating is 180 vs 150 for 
standard keel.

I have won a few ragattas the last year with the 24, but ready for a boat to 
also cruise some with the wife.

Cheers,

Doug
s/v Red Sky
1976 C&C 24
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thank you Fred. 
The 30’s in my area are far too rich for my blood but I’ll keep my eyes open. 
I’m not pulling the trigger on either boat until the spring. Maybe something 
comes available between now and then. 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 8:18 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chris — I’ll chime in in favor of the 30mkI, having owned a 1981 for several 
years before we moved up to our Landfall 38.  The 30 was my first boat, and I 
was worried about single-handing her; when I first came aboard, it seemed 
enormous!  But learning on that boat was a joy; it really took care of me, and 
I was always sure of its ability to handle weather.  These, along with the 
additional space down below, are, I think, really good reasons for you to 
consider a 30 over a 26 or 27.  I think you’d be happier in the end.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:10 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:
Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chris — I’ll chime in in favor of the 30mkI, having owned a 1981 for several 
years before we moved up to our Landfall 38.  The 30 was my first boat, and I 
was worried about single-handing her; when I first came aboard, it seemed 
enormous!  But learning on that boat was a joy; it really took care of me, and 
I was always sure of its ability to handle weather.  These, along with the 
additional space down below, are, I think, really good reasons for you to 
consider a 30 over a 26 or 27.  I think you’d be happier in the end.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:10 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Bruce!
> 
> I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
> sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
> down. 
> 
> I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
> committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
> were to present itself. :) 
> 
> You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
> dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
> road and make the right choice. 
> 
> Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
> classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
> 
> Chris 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thanks Bruce!
I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
down. 
I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
were to present itself. :) 
You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
road and make the right choice. 
Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 7:57 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing 
about the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  
which made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 
in about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be 
less optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a 
friend in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have 
roller furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or 
even less.
Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from Samsung tablet___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I had a 1977 C&C 27 MK III for 15 years on Lake Michigan.  The nice thing about 
the MK III was that it had a taller rig than the one you'relooking at,  which 
made her a great light air performer, generally hitting hull speed of 6.4 in 
about 9 kts pf wind, and which would commonly sustain 7 knots.  I would be less 
optimistic about the MK II, and I sold mine for 8K in 2015, albeit to a friend 
in very good condition.  It was in very good shape but also did not have roller 
furling.  Given the work you're talking about, she ought to be $2,500 or even 
less.
Now having a bigger boat and the affordability of older boats, I too would 
recommend looking at a bigger one, or at least holding out for one in much 
better condition.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from Samsung tablet___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

The 27 looks like she’s hit some rocks as the leading edge of the keel is welll 
beaten.keel bolts looked fine and the hull to keel joint looked okay as wel ( 
no smikebor separation). The deck coring will need to be replaced from the bow 
tip back about 2-2.5” as the last two stanchions in the bow pulpit are wet and 
delaminated. Forward hatch has a hinge that has stripped out of the bedding and 
the bedding must be re-glassed and epoxied. One of the Barlow winches (port 
side) has seized. Her head plumbs directly overboard so that will need 
attention. Rudder needs rebuild but despite the wetness I don’t believe it’s 
affected performance but it’s wet and cracked at the top and is showing signs 
of splitting at the trailing edge. Hank on jibs (of which he has 3 including 
storm jib all in very good condition) two booms and whisker pole. Never used 
spinnaker. A4 engine with a cooling issue (owner is trying to rectify before 
winterizing and final sale). Great shape below deck. Big worry is that she has 
been on the hard (i later discovered) for over 10 years 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, October 10, 2018, 9:58 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

We had both on Carlyle.  As I recall the 26 was a more tender boat, and with 
the larger beam needed more attention in the puffs.  However, it did better in 
light air.  Our average wind is 10kts with a std deviation of 7, so we have a 
number of days in the 3-5 and 5-7 range.The 27-3 was a great sailing boat, but 
needed a bit more air to fully perform; closer to 10-12.  It did have speed 
with a Pearson 30, which says something for a 27ft boat.All three folks (2 with 
26s & 1 with 27) enjoyed their boats.Can't go wrong with either, but sounds 
like the 27 needs a lot more work.  Fine if the price reflects that.OTOH, the 
30-1 is a great boat.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

It’s such a difficult choice. This is great information Ron. I appreciate it 
Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, October 10, 2018, 9:58 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

We had both on Carlyle.  As I recall the 26 was a more tender boat, and with 
the larger beam needed more attention in the puffs.  However, it did better in 
light air.  Our average wind is 10kts with a std deviation of 7, so we have a 
number of days in the 3-5 and 5-7 range.The 27-3 was a great sailing boat, but 
needed a bit more air to fully perform; closer to 10-12.  It did have speed 
with a Pearson 30, which says something for a 27ft boat.All three folks (2 with 
26s & 1 with 27) enjoyed their boats.Can't go wrong with either, but sounds 
like the 27 needs a lot more work.  Fine if the price reflects that.OTOH, the 
30-1 is a great boat.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray