Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I used CL200 for our irrigation system, as it was about half the price of
CSA/UL approved schedule 40. It is definitely thinner, which in this case
is a bonus. For water pipes, not so much, but I have >1000' in the ground
and no leaks after the 10 years, except for those pipes I've hit with
something. In my experience, schedule 40 has much higher strength and
impact resistance, and schedule 80 even more so, but it's not an issue
inside the mast. For making a support for a winter cover, I'd use sched 40.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 9:06 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yeah that CL 200 is the pvc which I have for reference.  When I pulled the
> upc off the side it came up as scheduled 40.  I don't know the difference.
> I've never really had to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my
> element.
>
> Josh
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
>> due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
>> will save it.
>>
>> One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
>> in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner
>> walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also
>> seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding
>> sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through
>> the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and
>> Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the
>> connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit.
>> Once the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller
>> cables.
>> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be
>> challenge also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the
>> newer ones.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical
>>> wiring in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the
>>> time to do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to
>>> reduce noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel
>>> stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
>>> are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
>>> (power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
>>> separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>>>
>>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
>>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
>>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
>>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
>>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>>>
>>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
>>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>>>
>>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties
>>> are definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that
>>> I see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
>>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
>>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
>>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
>>> the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
>>> the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
>>> required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
>>> the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
>>> relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
>>> most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
>>> for that.
>>>
>>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits -
>>> one to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
>>> having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>>>
>>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
>>> thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
>>> effort for the conduit worth it?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Nathan Post
>>> S/V Wisper
>>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>>> Lynn MA, USA
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributi

Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 When the mechanic changed out my cable, the shift was much easier; as 
expected.Ron

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020, 11:42:34 AM CDT, Paul Hood via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Graham,

Did you happen to have an atomic 4 with reduction drive as well.  Mine is very 
difficult to put in and out of gear.  I have a 12" bilge pump lever on it and 
requires an enormous amount of force.  Folks on my boat under 150lbs can't 
really get it in/out full gear.  I will be changing the cable at the same time 
so hoping that helps.  I've been told it does need lots of leverage, just by 
design.  Just don't know what the right amount is - it seems too much.


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Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 On mine, the mechanic took an aluminum rod and machined it to fit the short 
2in lever that stood out from the pedestal.  Haven't been to the boat in a 
while, and not taken the rod out, but I thought it had a groove cut in the end, 
about a half inch from the end or so, with an o-ring placed in it.Next time to 
the boat, I'll try to remember to take a look.  Didn't cost much to make 
it.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020, 11:35:31 AM CDT, Paul Hood via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the throttle,
starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look like.  It
appears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it actually
slides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I have a
1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut the
head off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  It
was meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic
4 with reduction drive.  I'll get better pictures this weekend.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This?  http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html


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Stus-List 38 landfall for sale

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

I am moving up to a bigger boat.Thought I would let everyone have SEA YA' s 
info. Click on the link below. If you know someone looking please have them 
contact david norwood.You are a great groupJim Schwartz 38 landfall Washington 
nc https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/c-c-38-landfall-3652282/Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone___

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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Shawn,

 

The last time I did this project was my old Catalina, but my solution at the 
time was to leave the wires loose and run them through foam pipe insulation 
taped end to end.  I think I picked up the tip from the email list for that 
boat.  It was very quiet and provided great chafe protection for the wires.  
With some messenger lines run, you might be able to pull a new wire through, 
though I never had the need.

 

Just a thought,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

 

I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service due 
to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I will save 
it.

 

One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get in a 
CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner walled, 
and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also seek out 
aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding sizing, I 
just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through the bilge for 
wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and Standard horizon 
depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the connectors - two 7 pin DIN 
twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit. Once the connectors are through, 
there is plenty of space for smaller cables. 

Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be challenge 
also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the newer ones. 

 




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All,

 

As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring in 
my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to do it. 
 I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce noise (when 
rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel stepped mast and 5 
internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables are for wind 
instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar (power and 
communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a separate drop at the 
spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:

 

1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large cable 
ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails sticking out 
at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the mast and keep the 
cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb outdoor zip ties which 
are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.

 

2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the cables 
and then running the cables through it.

 

There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are 
definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I see 
is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time potentially 
with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top to bottom so 
that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for example for the 
radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to the bottom at once and 
then fishing the ends out the various small holes in the mast and reattaching 
connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort required to install it and the 
additional holes I would need to create in the mast.  I am also unsure how 
quiet either solution would be and the relative chance of tangling or extra 
friction or wear on a halyard although most info on-line seems to indicate that 
the conduit is the better choice for that.

 

With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one to 
the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than having a 
hole in large conduit at the spreader location.

 

Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your thoughts on 
the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the effort for the 
conduit worth it?  

 

Thanks,

Nathan Post

S/V Wisper

1981 C&C 34 CB

Lynn MA, USA

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[jhnelson24 via CnC-List]

Key is only to keep wheel from slipping when you turn it. The key can come out 
or stay.  I think mine came off with the wheel and i had a heck of a time 
getting it to stay put when putting wheel back on. But thats my understanding 
of what keys do. Lol.Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: John Conklin  
Date: 2020-04-08  17:04  (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeffrey 
Nelson  Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal 
Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is only 
to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would love to 
powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are working but 
quite stiff. 
Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for some 
solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect ! 
I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local 
restrictions

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net







On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:



Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My wheel 
came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the whole 
thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.
On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure, just 
use the gear puller.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE



Josh



On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what shakes out 


Thanks!

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:




 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:






Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.

BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday
 ! 
😊 
 
Thanks! 
 
John Conklin

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Key can stay.  In my case I have to lock the wheels to prevent the shaft
from rotating and "dumping" the key out.  Depending on the circumstances I
may even grab a rubber band to ensure that it doesn't get lost.  If you
want to remove the shaft there are 3 plastic shims which need to be aligned
with their notch top dead center.  Everything else is easy to see and
disassemble.  The 3 shims will not present themselves.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 16:05 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is
> only to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would
> love to powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are
> working but quite stiff.
> Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for
> some solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect !
> I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local
> restrictions
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
>
>
> On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My
> wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
> but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.
>
> I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the
> whole thing re-powder coated when I did mine.
>
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C&C 30
>Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure,
> just use the gear puller.
>
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE
>
> Josh
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what
>> shakes out
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> John Conklin
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and
>> not tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is
>> crescent shaped.
>> A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the
>> trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone
>> to rust.
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> Former Edson employee
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  It is a tapered key.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm
>> ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon
>> Pedestal with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear
>> original for sure.
>>
>> BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but
>> easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like
>> its tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ?
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I
>> need to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t
>> want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!
>>
>> Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least
>> that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or
>> without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as
>> it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>> John Conklin
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send cont

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is only 
to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would love to 
powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are working but 
quite stiff.
Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for some 
solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect !
I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local 
restrictions

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My wheel 
came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the whole 
thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure, just 
use the gear puller.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

 Yes, looking at the picture  ( on Paul's lever with round ball at the end ) it 
is Edson, same thing on my 1975 , you need the long lever for Atomic 4 
transmissions. 1-2 years ago you could event get only the "Bakelite" black 
handle that was ending it. When not in use one can just pull it ( held by a 
ball spring ) and insert it in a hole near the Compass.
SylvainC&C27 MkIII

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020, 12:05:01 AM EDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but from the 
angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so try the link below 
for replacement engine controls.
https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-controls-accessories/

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 


On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List  wrote:

I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I would
love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the original looks
like.    I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the gear
shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although not
great. 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnOQ8?usp
=sharing


Paul Hood
'82 C&C34
Georgian Bay




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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 pedestal has the sideward handles, the shift one is just like the
throttle, except facing the other way. I think you could fabricate one out
of aluminum.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Paul Hood via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 12:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the throttle,
starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look like.  It
appears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it actually
slides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I have a
1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut the
head off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  It
was meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic
4 with reduction drive.   I'll get better pictures this weekend.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 12:30 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I 
> replaced my OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a 
> little costly, much more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the 
> Edson manual and if you don't know how old the chain and cables are, 
> you may want to replace those too.  IIRR, the levers cost about $50 
> each and the chain/cable kit costs over $400.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md
>
> On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but 
> from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so 
> try the link below for replacement engine controls.
>
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-
> controls-accessories/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I 
> would love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the 
> original looks
> like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the
> gear
> shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although 
> not great.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnO
> Q8?usp
> =sharing
>  OQ8?usp=sharing>
>
>
> Paul Hood
> '81 C&C34
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My 
wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...

but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the 
whole thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be 
sure, just use the gear puller.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see
what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com 



On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is
square and not tapered. Tapered shafts in later years have a
Woodruff key which is crescent shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should
do the trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened
steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hi,

Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy
 AutoHelm ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt
/drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal with the control levers (up ,
Down)  on each side which appear original for sure.

BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out
(snug but easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and
sticks there? Almost like its tapered?  You can see in picture
here the Keyway ?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0

Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at
all. Or do I need to just put little more lube and little more
elbow grease? I don’t want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!

Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at
least that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to
do so,with or without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into
the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Paul

The levers are identical I think, symmetrical at least.  You could pull 
the throttle out temporarily and use it as a template to fabricate up a 
workable replacement from a piece of flat bar stock, wouldn't look as 
nice as the original but would work a lot better than what you have 
now?  Put some tubing over it for a hand grip.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-08 1:34 p.m., Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the throttle,
starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look like.  It
appears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it actually
slides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I have a
1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut the
head off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  It
was meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic
4 with reduction drive.   I'll get better pictures this weekend.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 12:30 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I
replaced my OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a
little costly, much more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the
Edson manual and if you don't know how old the chain and cables are,
you may want to replace those too.  IIRR, the levers cost about $50
each and the chain/cable kit costs over $400.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md

On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but
from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so
try the link below for replacement engine controls.


https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-
controls-accessories/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I
would love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the
original looks
like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the
gear
shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although
not great.


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnO
Q8?usp
=sharing



Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay







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.


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Stus-List Pedestal wheel removal

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

I had the same stuck wheel problem.  With lubricant, gear puller, some
tapping of a hammer, it eventually came off.  I cleaned it up, greased it
and have had no problem with it for 5 years.   I loosen the nut and move the
wheel slightly to check yearly and it is fine.  

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay


Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 13:02:11 -0300
From: Jeffrey Nelson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal
Message-ID: <29ab5e13-d80d-3a7e-6f17-ec09d7046...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.? My
wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.? Maybe I used a gear puller...
but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the whole
thing re-powder coated when I did mine.

Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.



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Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I made my own from aluminum bar from my local metal shop.  The old ones 
had broken, but was able to use most of it as
a rough template.  If yours are like mine.  The are basically over sized 
popcycle sticks.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/8/2020 1:41 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Did you happen to have an atomic 4 with reduction drive as well.  Mine is very 
difficult to put in and out of gear.  I have a 12" bilge pump lever on it and 
requires an enormous amount of force.  Folks on my boat under 150lbs can't really 
get it in/out full gear.  I will be changing the cable at the same time so hoping 
that helps.  I've been told it does need lots of leverage, just by design.  Just 
don't know what the right amount is - it seems too much.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416-799-5549

-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins 
Sent: April 8, 2020 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

It is an old Edison, with up/down moving levers that stick out to either side 
and the cables go through an aft pair of guard tubes. I owned an
1980 Aloha with this setup.  You might be able to find one e-bay or one of the 
big consignment shops, or you could retrofit the more common lever setup to the 
pedestal but that would be $$$.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-08 1:01 p.m., Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

I didn't have great pics in my files of that pedestal from any side.
I'll hopefully be heading to the boat for the first time this spring
and will get some pictures.  It is definitely Edson.  I should give
them a call but didn't think they had '81 vintage parts.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay
-




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Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

Graham,

Did you happen to have an atomic 4 with reduction drive as well.  Mine is very 
difficult to put in and out of gear.  I have a 12" bilge pump lever on it and 
requires an enormous amount of force.  Folks on my boat under 150lbs can't 
really get it in/out full gear.  I will be changing the cable at the same time 
so hoping that helps.  I've been told it does need lots of leverage, just by 
design.  Just don't know what the right amount is - it seems too much.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416-799-5549

-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins  
Sent: April 8, 2020 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

It is an old Edison, with up/down moving levers that stick out to either side 
and the cables go through an aft pair of guard tubes. I owned an
1980 Aloha with this setup.  You might be able to find one e-bay or one of the 
big consignment shops, or you could retrofit the more common lever setup to the 
pedestal but that would be $$$.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-08 1:01 p.m., Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:
> I didn't have great pics in my files of that pedestal from any side.  
> I'll hopefully be heading to the boat for the first time this spring 
> and will get some pictures.  It is definitely Edson.  I should give 
> them a call but didn't think they had '81 vintage parts.
>
> Paul Hood
> '81 C&C34
> Georgian Bay
> -
>



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the throttle,
starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look like.  It
appears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it actually
slides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I have a
1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut the
head off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  It
was meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic
4 with reduction drive.   I'll get better pictures this weekend.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 12:30 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I 
> replaced my OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a 
> little costly, much more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the 
> Edson manual and if you don't know how old the chain and cables are, 
> you may want to replace those too.  IIRR, the levers cost about $50 
> each and the chain/cable kit costs over $400.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md
>
> On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but 
> from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so 
> try the link below for replacement engine controls.
>
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-
> controls-accessories/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I 
> would love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the 
> original looks
> like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the
> gear
> shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although 
> not great.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnO
> Q8?usp
> =sharing
>  OQ8?usp=sharing>
>
>
> Paul Hood
> '81 C&C34
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

It is an old Edison, with up/down moving levers that stick out to either 
side and the cables go through an aft pair of guard tubes. I owned an 
1980 Aloha with this setup.  You might be able to find one e-bay or one 
of the big consignment shops, or you could retrofit the more common 
lever setup to the pedestal but that would be $$$.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-08 1:01 p.m., Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

I didn't have great pics in my files of that pedestal from any side.  I'll
hopefully be heading to the boat for the first time this spring and will get
some pictures.  It is definitely Edson.  I should give them a call but
didn't think they had '81 vintage parts.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay
-

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 00:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID: <1343361014.260575.1586320165...@connect.xfinity.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I replaced my
OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a little costly, much
more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the Edson manual and if you don't
know how old the chain and cables are, you may want to replace those too.
IIRR, the levers cost about $50 each and the chain/cable kit costs over
$400.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md



On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List

 wrote:

 A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but

from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so try the
link below for replacement engine controls.
 
https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-

controls-accessories/

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD



 On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List <

cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:

 > > I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the
PO and I would

 love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the

original looks

 like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side

and the gear

 shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal

although not

 great.



https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnOQ8?usp

 =sharing
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWE
nOQ8?usp=sharing


 Paul Hood
 '82 C&C34
 Georgian Bay



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.


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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah that CL 200 is the pvc which I have for reference.  When I pulled the
upc off the side it came up as scheduled 40.  I don't know the difference.
I've never really had to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my
element.

Josh

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
> due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
> will save it.
>
> One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
> in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner
> walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also
> seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding
> sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through
> the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and
> Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the
> connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit.
> Once the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller
> cables.
> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be
> challenge also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the
> newer ones.
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical
>> wiring in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the
>> time to do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to
>> reduce noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel
>> stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
>> are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
>> (power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
>> separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>>
>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>>
>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>>
>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties
>> are definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that
>> I see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
>> the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
>> the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
>> required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
>> the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
>> relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
>> most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
>> for that.
>>
>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits -
>> one to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
>> having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>>
>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
>> thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
>> effort for the conduit worth it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Wisper
>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>> Lynn MA, USA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

I didn't have great pics in my files of that pedestal from any side.  I'll
hopefully be heading to the boat for the first time this spring and will get
some pictures.  It is definitely Edson.  I should give them a call but
didn't think they had '81 vintage parts.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34 
Georgian Bay
-

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 00:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID: <1343361014.260575.1586320165...@connect.xfinity.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I replaced my
OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a little costly, much
more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the Edson manual and if you don't
know how old the chain and cables are, you may want to replace those too.
IIRR, the levers cost about $50 each and the chain/cable kit costs over
$400.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md


> On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but
from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so try the
link below for replacement engine controls.
> 
> 
> https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-
> controls-accessories/
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the 
> PO and I would
> > love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the
original looks
> > like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side
and the gear
> > shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal
although not
> > great.
> > 
> >
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnOQ8?usp
> > =sharing 
> > https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWE
> > nOQ8?usp=sharing
> > 
> > 
> > Paul Hood
> > '82 C&C34
> > Georgian Bay



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Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 12:30 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I replaced
> my OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a little costly,
> much more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the Edson manual and if you
> don't know how old the chain and cables are, you may want to replace those
> too.  IIRR, the levers cost about $50 each and the chain/cable kit costs
> over $400.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md
>
> On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but from
> the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so try the link
> below for replacement engine controls.
>
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-controls-accessories/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I would
> love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the original
> looks
> like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the
> gear
> shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although not
> great.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnOQ8?usp
> =sharing
> 
>
>
> Paul Hood
> '82 C&C34
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Always run a messenger line so you can pull another wire when the mast is
up!

Joel

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 11:27 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
> due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
> will save it.
>
> One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
> in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner
> walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also
> seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding
> sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through
> the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and
> Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the
> connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit.
> Once the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller
> cables.
> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be
> challenge also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the
> newer ones.
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical
>> wiring in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the
>> time to do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to
>> reduce noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel
>> stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
>> are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
>> (power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
>> separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>>
>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>>
>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>>
>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties
>> are definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that
>> I see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
>> the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
>> the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
>> required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
>> the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
>> relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
>> most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
>> for that.
>>
>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits -
>> one to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
>> having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>>
>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
>> thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
>> effort for the conduit worth it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Wisper
>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>> Lynn MA, USA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
will save it.

One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner
walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also
seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding
sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through
the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and
Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the
connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit.
Once the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller
cables.
Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be challenge
also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the newer
ones.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical
> wiring in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the
> time to do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to
> reduce noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel
> stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
> are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
> (power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
> separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>
> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>
> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
> cables and then running the cables through it.
>
> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are
> definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I
> see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
> the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
> the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
> required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
> the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
> relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
> most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
> for that.
>
> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits -
> one to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
> having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>
> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
> thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
> effort for the conduit worth it?
>
> Thanks,
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34 CB
> Lynn MA, USA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray