Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Joel,

When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the
reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric
such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would
change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.
On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard
surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the
backing.  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I
wish I had though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
> They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
> It let airflow
> Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
> My wife just added that to my list
>
> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.
>>
>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html
>>
>> Dave
>> Windstar 33-2
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I got tracks on my 35 MKII. I will send a pic when i uncover in sting. If
you remind e

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 12:47 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the genoa
> (which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. I
> am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of
> the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
>> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
>> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
>> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
>> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>>
>> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
>> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
>> I've been given these locations for adding track:
>> *Inline tracks*
>> Front 20.0 aft of tack
>> Back 26.6 aft of tack
>> Front off center line 3.5
>> Back off center line  4.1
>>
>> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
>> *130 %  Transverse*
>> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>>
>> *155% Transverse*
>> 23.1  aft of tack
>>
>> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
>> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
>> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>>
>> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
>> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
>> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
>> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>>
>> Bob Mann
>> Mystic
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good to know. Makes my day really

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 5:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html
>
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Put your brain to work on something. else. Do you have an admiral on board
or close by interested

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:20 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agree, hoisting the 190# of chain or similar weight would take the same
> effort, but you'd only have to hoist it once and then have the freedom to
> could go up and down and anywhere in between without much effort and not
> have to bother crew.   My 190# weight could be balanced by four 5 gallon
> jugs of water or gasoline of diesel, so it's doable with items on hand, but
> the amount of prep is a little complicated.  I'll try and think through all
> the hurdles and describe what I think might work in a future email.
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 01/24/2021 8:32 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Chuck
>
> Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist
> a person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
> Adam
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Perusing some old data on my computer, I (Re) found this site: 
https://l-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php

Bob Mann
s/v Mystic
C 35 mk I
Great Lakes Yacht Club

> On 01/24/2021 9:03 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I have mast steps, makes going aloft very easy. I have someone tailing 
> the bosuns chair for when I get where I need to be. 
>  
>  
>  
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I have mast steps, makes going aloft very easy. I have someone tailing the 
bosuns chair for when I get where I need to be. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah 
C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
nullThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You can also consider a counterweight of half of that (or, generally, any 
size). If you lift 50 lb, you would be 50 lb lighter.

Though, I still believe that it is much easier to climb yourself.

Marek

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: January 24, 2021 15:20
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Adam Hayden ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List mast climbing using a counter weight

Agree, hoisting the 190# of chain or similar weight would take the same effort, 
but you'd only have to hoist it once and then have the freedom to could go up 
and down and anywhere in between without much effort and not have to bother 
crew.   My 190# weight could be balanced by four 5 gallon jugs of water or 
gasoline of diesel, so it's doable with items on hand, but the amount of prep 
is a little complicated.  I'll try and think through all the hurdles and 
describe what I think might work in a future email.



Chuck S


On 01/24/2021 8:32 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Chuck
Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
Adam
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
- Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I like this trick; I did the opposite when drilling for new midship cleats,
and the over drilled hole is just barely hidden. I will try this method
next time, at least where clearance below allows for it.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:14 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track,
> a trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit
> encounters the underside of the deck.  The result is that the hole on the
> deck surface stays the same size.  In addition, you know precisely where to
> place the deck fitting and drill the new hole.
>
>
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:44 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck
>
>
>
> IMHO, I think there are three tricks to mounting genoa or jib tracks.
>
>
>
> 1. Cut away the headliner so the backing plate is against the underside of
> the deck.  I've seen too many folks simply crush the headliner against the
> underdecking.
>
>
>
> 2.  Make sure the backing plate(s) is adequately thick and wide.  If not,
> the loads will pull the plate into the underdeck and the track will loosen
> then leak.
>
>
>
> 3. Use a BIG overbore and fill.
>
>
>
> I recommend a fairly large overbore and fill.  Normally, for a deck
> fitting, I would overbore 1 or 2 drill bit sizes.  For a genoa or jib
> track, I would drill a fairly big hole that would still be hidden by the
> track.  A plug of thickened epoxy will handle much more compression loading
> than a cored deck.  So you can really tighten down the fasteners.  Tighten
> them snugly then come back 24 hours later and really tighten them!
>
>   --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:18 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> +1 on Chuck's thoughts.
>
>
>
> You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done
> that.
>
>
>
> I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work
> like you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> Water Phantom
>
> 1995 C XL/kcb
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dwight,

I was going ask the same question as Chuck.  My 35 Mk2 is old school, no 
roller furler racing genoas, but does have a cruising roller furl #2. 
All racing genoas are deck sweepers and are lead inboard of the 
lifelines which requires on each tack that the foredeck "skirts" the 
sails. I usually point high and try to find the slot where the foresails 
telltales are just barely lifting. Seems to work against most boats and 
we get to the mark in good shape.  But I do note your statement about 
keel shape, since Fireball has a keel a little over 6'  (1.98m) and a 
for-to-aft longer rudder by 2".  Also her "E" is 11.65' (3.55m) so the 
boat really drives off her genoas and the main is secondary.


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 1/24/2021 3:24 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Dwight,
Do you ever trim the genoa so that it is entirely inside the lifelines?
Chuck S
On 01/24/2021 7:38 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The beam of the Mk I is the same as the beam of my Mk II at 10.5 
feet. A high cut clew will help but the sheets will still chafe hard 
on the life lines under some points of sail. My boat has inboard 
genoa tracks but there is a limit on how close you can sail to 
apparent wind angle (point) and still be fast from point A to B 
upwind. You will be able to sail higher in light air, say below 10kts 
apparent but as wind speed increases footing off will pay off. The 
design mainly because of keel and hull shape I believe does not point 
as well as some newer designs. Besides the lifeline issue you need to 
consider the shrouds. The Mk I has for and aft lowers with not much 
distance between the uppers and the toe rail.


On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 11:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:


My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks. In my area we
used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the
toe rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe
rail.  However, the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and
gets caught on the lifeline; I already severely bent the port
lifeline last year.
Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so
I'll be using that sail more often. All-around, time to add
tracks to the deck.  I've been given these locations for adding
track:
*Inline tracks*
Front 20.0 aft of tack
Back 26.6 aft of tack
Front off center line 3.5
Back off center line  4.1

*Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
*130 %  Transverse*
19.5 Aft of jib tack

*155% Transverse*
23.1  aft of tack
I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to
the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on
Saturday it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be
straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be
going with Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or
suggestions?  I have two months to plan and install as I won't
launch until late April.
Bob Mann
Mystic
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support
to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu 


--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
- use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu 


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
It let airflow
Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
My wife just added that to my list

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html
>
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html

Dave
Windstar 33-2
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,
I answered Bob's email and added a drawing of my deck layout - of course 
it was too big and got rejected. Below are the two emails that were sent 
directly to Bob and a Dropbox url with the files (first time for 
dropbox) Let me know if you can't view them.  I also revised that the 
boat carries the spin pole inboard of the shrouds, making it easier to 
get to the mast - don't have to go fwd of shrouds to get onto the mast.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/24jj19inocsyijl/AABdveccl-YBav2UPFiJEngxa?dl=0
Bob,  (original message was too big for stu's list)

Your pointing angle is not as tight as it could be going to the toe rail.
I have a 1974 C 35 Mk2 which is slightly longer. but has a similar 
shroud arrangement.  The boat was originally set up by the factory & 
Hood for a campaign.  I use to have a 155, but my No.1 now is a 148, 
No.2 132, no.3 120.  The tracks (per side) are two straight sections of 
1.25 which angle slightly from inboard (fwd) to outboard (aft).  The fwd 
end is approx 2" from cabin, the joint between the tracks is approx 2" 
from cabin and the aft end is 3" from the toe rail.  They run from just 
fwd of the aft lower to a little fwd of the fwd cockpit winch   I also 
use two twin sheet lead blocks each side which serve two purposes: to 
correctly lead two sails during sail change, and the ability to take the 
lazy sheet and lead to thru correct block to the secondary winch when 
there are over-wraps on the main winch.  Can send you pictures if you 
want. Remember Defenders March sales.


Don Kern

Bob
On 01/24/2021 1:24 AM Donald Kern  wrote:
Thanks Don.
Also curious what the cabin interior looks like from all these bolts.
My wife still thinks the boat is part family boat and not just a racer 
so I try to keep the interior looking nice.

Bob
Bob,

Like I said this was a factory install.  Thus, the track is backed by a 
stock aluminum bar between the headliner and deck.  The headliner had 
3/4" holes drilled below each bolt/nut. Make sure the bolts are close to 
flush with the nuts.  Bought a bag of 50 Plastic Hole Plugs to fill the 
holes.  I spray painted them flat white and also pulled down and painted 
all the overhead circular covers for the deck winches & cleats. The 
covers are original and had become discolored (yellowed) with age and 
the ss screws had rusted slightly onto the plastic.  Overhead looks much 
better now. Fireball is also a cruiser, though she is raced hard, ie: 
Fall Off Soundings.


Plugs are still available at "dangoodbuy":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Plastic-Hole-Plugs-To-Fit-3-4-Opening-Translucent-White-Nylon/251487228379?hash=item3a8dce91db:g:MCEAAOxydUJTM1Cj 



Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 1/24/2021 11:46 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the 
genoa (which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer 
track. I am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the 
foot length of the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual 
sail on the boat?


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

It is also possible with a balsa core to pick out the core with a bent wire or 
other steel curved hook going into the side wall of the hole so you don’t have 
to over drill from either side.  You have to make sure you get it all so the 
epoxy will seal the core.  Hard to do with a small <1/4” hole but i have 
managed for 5/16 and works well on 3/8 and larger.  Then put tape on the bottom 
and fill with epoxy and redrill when cured.  Useful when you can’t get a drill 
to the underside and don’t want to overdrill the top as discussed.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

For going up the mast solo, I was able to find a used ATN Topclimber on eBay 
for a reasonable cost.  I have been up the mast 3-4 times now, so it has paid 
for itself.  I was not confident putting something together from parts and ATN 
got good reviews from users (and now me).  Dave

> On Jan 24, 2021, at 3:20 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Agree, hoisting the 190# of chain or similar weight would take the same 
> effort, but you'd only have to hoist it once and then have the freedom to 
> could go up and down and anywhere in between without much effort and not have 
> to bother crew.   My 190# weight could be balanced by four 5 gallon jugs of 
> water or gasoline of diesel, so it's doable with items on hand, but the 
> amount of prep is a little complicated.  I'll try and think through all the 
> hurdles and describe what I think might work in a future email.   
>  
>  
>  
> Chuck S
>  
>  
>> On 01/24/2021 8:32 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List  wrote:
>>  
>>  
>> Chuck 
>> 
>> Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
>> person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside. 
>> Adam 
>> 
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Dwight,

Do you ever trim the genoa so that it is entirely inside the lifelines?

Chuck S

> On 01/24/2021 7:38 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> The beam of the Mk I is the same as the beam of my Mk II at 10.5 feet. A 
> high cut clew will help but the sheets will still chafe hard on the life 
> lines under some points of sail. My boat has inboard genoa tracks but there 
> is a limit on how close you can sail to apparent wind angle (point) and still 
> be fast from point A to B upwind. You will be able to sail higher in light 
> air, say below 10kts apparent but as wind speed increases footing off will 
> pay off. The design mainly because of keel and hull shape I believe does not 
> point as well as some newer designs. Besides the lifeline issue you need to 
> consider the shrouds. The Mk I has for and aft lowers with not much distance 
> between the uppers and the toe rail. 
> 
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 11:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my 
> area we used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe 
> rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, 
> the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I 
> already severely bent the port lifeline last year.
> >  
> > Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so 
> > I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the 
> > deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:
> > Inline tracks
> > Front 20.0 aft of tack
> > Back 26.6 aft of tack
> > Front off center line 3.5
> > Back off center line  4.1
> > 
> > Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
> > 130 %  Transverse
> > 19.5 Aft of jib tack
> > 
> > 155% Transverse 
> > 23.1  aft of tack
> >  
> > I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to 
> > the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday 
> > it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).  
> >  
> > What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
> > straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
> > Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have 
> > two months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Donald Kern shared "Track" with you

[Donald Kern (via Dropbox) via CnC-List]

Hi there, 
 Donald Kern (don-k...@cox.net) invited you to view the folder " Track " on 
Dropbox.

 Go to folder[1]

 Enjoy!
The Dropbox team 

[1]: https://www.dropbox.com/l/scl/AACvxYbgBHQyt17NtFxn0WECKjkWJ1wD9LoThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List mast climbing using a counter weight

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Agree, hoisting the 190# of chain or similar weight would take the same effort, 
but you'd only have to hoist it once and then have the freedom to could go up 
and down and anywhere in between without much effort and not have to bother 
crew.   My 190# weight could be balanced by four 5 gallon jugs of water or 
gasoline of diesel, so it's doable with items on hand, but the amount of prep 
is a little complicated.  I'll try and think through all the hurdles and 
describe what I think might work in a future email.   



Chuck S



> On 01/24/2021 8:32 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Chuck
> 
> Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  
> a person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside. 
> Adam
> 
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks--I had seen this term somewhere in my searching but had forgotten it. 
Another nautical term is always a good thing!
Charlie


-Original Message-
From: dukatolla--- via CnC-List 
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Cc: dukato...@hotmail.com 
Sent: Sun, Jan 24, 2021 1:22 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'

 Hi Charlie
The correct term is "deckhead".
According to Hoyle (A Blokee for Britain..: )
Cheers

SunnyJ1970 C
On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 12:49:33 p.m. EST, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue.
My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the 
cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4" 
thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and aft.. 
It looks like these are held in place with bung covered screws onto to 
stringers at the top and bottom of the this teak/plywood. 
I am trying to find a source of this grooved wood to replace some in my forward 
cabin that was destroyed by a water leak.
So far I have had no luck on the internet but I may need to search deeper 
before I give up and have some replacement panels made--I only need about a 
piece about 1' x 2' with the grooves running with the 2' sides.
Is this stuff likely available somewhere (maybe in Canada?) or did C make 
these panels in house?
Thanks in advance--
Charlie Nelson1995 C XL/kcbWater PhantomThanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  Thanks to all of the subscribers 
that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to 
show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track, a 
trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit 
encounters the underside of the deck.  The result is that the hole on the deck 
surface stays the same size.  In addition, you know precisely where to place 
the deck fitting and drill the new hole.

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:44 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

 

IMHO, I think there are three tricks to mounting genoa or jib tracks.

 

1. Cut away the headliner so the backing plate is against the underside of the 
deck.  I've seen too many folks simply crush the headliner against the 
underdecking.

 

2.  Make sure the backing plate(s) is adequately thick and wide.  If not, the 
loads will pull the plate into the underdeck and the track will loosen then 
leak.

 

3. Use a BIG overbore and fill.

 

I recommend a fairly large overbore and fill.  Normally, for a deck fitting, I 
would overbore 1 or 2 drill bit sizes.  For a genoa or jib track, I would drill 
a fairly big hole that would still be hidden by the track.  A plug of thickened 
epoxy will handle much more compression loading than a cored deck.  So you can 
really tighten down the fasteners.  Tighten them snugly then come back 24 hours 
later and really tighten them!

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:18 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

+1 on Chuck's thoughts. 

 

You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done that.

 

I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work like 
you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C XL/kcb 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'

[dukatolla--- via CnC-List]

 Hi Charlie
The correct term is "deckhead".
According to Hoyle (A Blokee for Britain..: )
Cheers

SunnyJ1970 C
On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 12:49:33 p.m. EST, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue.
My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the 
cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4" 
thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and aft.. 
It looks like these are held in place with bung covered screws onto to 
stringers at the top and bottom of the this teak/plywood. 
I am trying to find a source of this grooved wood to replace some in my forward 
cabin that was destroyed by a water leak.
So far I have had no luck on the internet but I may need to search deeper 
before I give up and have some replacement panels made--I only need about a 
piece about 1' x 2' with the grooves running with the 2' sides.
Is this stuff likely available somewhere (maybe in Canada?) or did C make 
these panels in house?
Thanks in advance--
Charlie Nelson1995 C XL/kcbWater PhantomThanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie, Are you aware of or tried Noah’s in Toronto.  That might be the 
most likely place.

http://www.noahsmarine.com/

Tom S

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Interior 'walls'

I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue. 

My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the 
cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4" 
thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and aft.. 
It looks like these are held in place with bung covered screws onto to 
stringers at the top and bottom of the this teak/plywood. 

I am trying to find a source of this grooved wood to replace some in my forward 
cabin that was destroyed by a water leak.

So far I have had no luck on the internet but I may need to search deeper 
before I give up and have some replacement panels made--I only need about a 
piece about 1' x 2' with the grooves running with the 2' sides.

Is this stuff likely available somewhere (maybe in Canada?) or did C make 
these panels in house?

Thanks in advance--

Charlie Nelson
1995 C XL/kcb
Water Phantom



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Interior 'walls'

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue.
My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the 
cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4" 
thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and aft.. 
It looks like these are held in place with bung covered screws onto to 
stringers at the top and bottom of the this teak/plywood. 
I am trying to find a source of this grooved wood to replace some in my forward 
cabin that was destroyed by a water leak.
So far I have had no luck on the internet but I may need to search deeper 
before I give up and have some replacement panels made--I only need about a 
piece about 1' x 2' with the grooves running with the 2' sides.
Is this stuff likely available somewhere (maybe in Canada?) or did C make 
these panels in house?
Thanks in advance--
Charlie Nelson1995 C XL/kcbWater PhantomThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

IMHO, I think there are three tricks to mounting genoa or jib tracks.

1. Cut away the headliner so the backing plate is against the underside of
the deck.  I've seen too many folks simply crush the headliner against the
underdecking.

2.  Make sure the backing plate(s) is adequately thick and wide.  If not,
the loads will pull the plate into the underdeck and the track will loosen
then leak.

3. Use a BIG overbore and fill.

I recommend a fairly large overbore and fill.  Normally, for a deck
fitting, I would overbore 1 or 2 drill bit sizes.  For a genoa or jib
track, I would drill a fairly big hole that would still be hidden by the
track.  A plug of thickened epoxy will handle much more compression loading
than a cored deck.  So you can really tighten down the fasteners.  Tighten
them snugly then come back 24 hours later and really tighten them!
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:18 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1 on Chuck's thoughts.
>
> You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done
> that.
>
> I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work
> like you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C XL/kcb
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I be very careful with the bag of anchor chain as a counter weight.
Remember the joke about the bricklayer who did something similar getting bricks 
up to the roof and getting mixed up about the load, his own weight, etc. !!

Charlie Nelson




-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Sent: Sat, Jan 23, 2021 11:49 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

  Found "The Cranker" bit for $40.    
https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?       Never tried one but it 
looks worth having the bit.I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded 
angle drill like    this $150 one from Harbor Freight   
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
       Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote 
control.       Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same 
weight of the climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the 
climber's weight so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but 
read it somewhere.       Chuck S   
  On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
wrote:           I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me 
up the mast. I was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works 
great, but if I couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for 
that purpose.  
  Alan Bergen   35 Mk III Thirsty   Rose City YC   Portland, OR 
   
   On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:  
   Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either hoisting 
someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum and it seemed 
like a good idea.  Not sure if it is just gimmicky or if it really works?   
Adam   C 36       Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest 
network.   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --    
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6KDiiMyeuwLjiU0YYjmv_O_oThiYEX0GKQhrYiAsxBbRfIpPdcnJSTJUTOa2GHKoFl0$
   Thanks - Stu 
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bob,

If you install the inner tracks, I suggest you make up an "outer sheet" (or
Barber hauler or whatever folks want to call it).  Touche's is a length of
line with a snap shackle on the end.

I rig it to the toe rail with a snatch block just a bit forward of where
the primary sheet crosses over the toe rail.  Rigging it slightly forward
will reduce twist as the sail is eased.  Run it outside the lifelines and
clip the snap shackle to the clew of the headsail.  I then take the outer
sheet to the secondary winch.  As soon as the primary sheet begins to bend
over the lifeline, I take tension on the outer sheet and ease the primary
sheet.  It opens the slot and improves speed slightly.  You can play the
two sheets to move the clew in or out.  Our boats like to "breathe".

The snap shackle makes it easy to remove if you need to tack.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

+1 on Chuck's thoughts.
You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done that.
I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work like 
you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C XL/kcb 


-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Sent: Sat, Jan 23, 2021 11:33 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

  I imagine the toerail block isn't giving you the sheeting angle you want and 
that's why you want to add a track          I'd look into using  Low Friction 
Rings and avoid adding tracks.  They've gotten the strength up on the rings and 
race boats are using these instead of blocks on tracks.  They reduce the number 
of fasteners and holes through the deck,   saves weight, saves cost, and 
provides the most adjustment possible.  You can keep the toerail block and add 
one low friction ring as an "In-Hauler" on the sheet located between the clew 
and the toerail block with a couple of smaller control lines running to jam 
cleats to position the ring higher/lower and in/out.  I think they even make a 
snatchblock style ring that might work better, as you can remove the inhauler 
when you want to pole out the genoa.       You got me thinking.  I removed my 
deck hardware to paint the deck and now I am considering if I could install a 
friction ring system and leave the tracks off.  I'm gonna check my catalogs and 
check the loads involved and get back to you.       Thanks,   Chuck Scheaffer, 
Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena, Md                   
  On 01/23/2021 10:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:   
        My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used 
to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When 
I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes down 
just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already severely bent 
the port lifeline last year.       Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max 
genoa size in '21 so I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to 
add tracks to the deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:   
Inline tracks  Front 20.0 aft of tack   Back 26.6 aft of tack   Front off 
center line 3.5   Back off center line  4.1  
 Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house 
 130 %  Transverse  19.5 Aft of jib tack  
 155% Transverse   23.1  aft of tack       I've been successful in Wednesday 
night races running the 167% to the toe rail and can continue to do so.  
However, for OD races on Saturday it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet 
own).         What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two 
months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.       Bob Mann   
Mystic   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

The measurements I listed were provided by a sailmaker.  He's been in the 
business for decades.  I talked with him several years ago about using rings 
and athwartship tracks, which is why those measurements were included.  I never 
did include tracks, but now it has become more important.

Bob

> On 01/24/2021 11:46 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the 
> genoa (which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. 
> I am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of 
> the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my 
> area we used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe 
> rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, 
> the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I 
> already severely bent the port lifeline last year.
> >  
> > Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so 
> > I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the 
> > deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:
> > Inline tracks
> > Front 20.0 aft of tack
> > Back 26.6 aft of tack
> > Front off center line 3.5
> > Back off center line  4.1
> > 
> > Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
> > 130 %  Transverse
> > 19.5 Aft of jib tack
> > 
> > 155% Transverse 
> > 23.1  aft of tack
> >  
> > I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to 
> > the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday 
> > it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).  
> >  
> > What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
> > straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
> > Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have 
> > two months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Kevin & Renee Hartig via CnC-List]

I found a similar bit at Fisheries marine supply that takes a 3/8" drive.
It is a replacement bit for the winchmate. I bought one, but have yet to
use it. I was surprised when it arrived that i received  2 bits for i
believe was 25.00 dollars.

Kevin
C 30 mkll

On Sunday, January 24, 2021, Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I purchased something similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/
> 124241193190
> but for a LOT less money, about the cost of a bosun's chair.  Mine has the
> climbing harness, a sewn strap that connects hands to feet, a pair of
> petzel ascenders and possibly a carabiner or two.
>
> The frog system is the method of ascending/descending.  Basically, stand
> on left foot, raise right hand & foot together (right foot strap comes up
> with hand). Stand on now raised right foot and repeat for left side.  To
> descend, you control the rate of descent.  To be fair, I've never used it
> to climb the mast, just a test climb at a barn with a rock climber to
> understand how it all works.  One fear is that you would twist around the
> line being climbed.  Wear a helmet!!
>
> Bob
>
> On 01/24/2021 10:25 AM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> Hi Marek - have found the hoisting of my not quite 100kg to be a lot as
> well. I’m not at all happy that I have the ascent sorted as well as I
> should - needs to be simple and safe.
> Could you share Some detail or reference material on the ascenders you use
> and the technique?
>
> Thanks, Dave
> 33-2 windstar.
> April 28 launch!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 24, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don’t believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with the line
> used mainly as  safety.
>
> When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have someone at
> the winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do it alone
> (and I often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
>
> Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job that I
> don’t wish on anyone (so I don’t ask anyone to do it). Your legs are much
> stronger than arms (at least mine are).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* January 24, 2021 8:32
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden <
> hayden.a...@hotmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Winch bit
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
> Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist
> a person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
>
> Adam
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Winch bit
>
>
>
> Found "The Cranker" bit for $40.
>
> https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?
> 
>
>
>
> Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
>
> I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like
>
> this $150 one from Harbor Freight
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-
> duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
> 
>
>
>
> Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.
>
>
>
> Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the
> climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's
> weight so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it
> somewhere.
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast.
> I was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but
> if I couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that
> purpose.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either
> hoisting someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum
> and it seemed like a 

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the genoa
(which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. I
am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of
the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>
> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
> I've been given these locations for adding track:
> *Inline tracks*
> Front 20.0 aft of tack
> Back 26.6 aft of tack
> Front off center line 3.5
> Back off center line  4.1
>
> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
> *130 %  Transverse*
> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>
> *155% Transverse*
> 23.1  aft of tack
>
> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>
> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You will twist around, if the line is free. If you are climbing the mast, you 
can use it to prevent the twisting. A loop around the mast helps a lot.

Marek

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
Sent: January 24, 2021 11:32
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

I purchased something similar to this: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124241193190
but for a LOT less money, about the cost of a bosun's chair.  Mine has the 
climbing harness, a sewn strap that connects hands to feet, a pair of petzel 
ascenders and possibly a carabiner or two.

The frog system is the method of ascending/descending.  Basically, stand on 
left foot, raise right hand & foot together (right foot strap comes up with 
hand). Stand on now raised right foot and repeat for left side.  To descend, 
you control the rate of descent.  To be fair, I've never used it to climb the 
mast, just a test climb at a barn with a rock climber to understand how it all 
works.  One fear is that you would twist around the line being climbed.  Wear a 
helmet!!

Bob
On 01/24/2021 10:25 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Marek - have found the hoisting of my not quite 100kg to be a lot as well.   
  I'm not at all happy that I have the ascent sorted as well as I should - 
needs to be simple and safe.
Could you share Some detail or reference material on the ascenders you use and 
the technique?

Thanks, Dave
33-2 windstar.
April 28 launch!

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 24, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I don't believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with the line used 
mainly as  safety.
When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have someone at the 
winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do it alone (and I 
often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job that I don't 
wish on anyone (so I don't ask anyone to do it). Your legs are much stronger 
than arms (at least mine are).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: January 24, 2021 8:32
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>; 
Adam Hayden mailto:hayden.a...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

Chuck
Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
Adam
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

Found "The Cranker" bit for $40.
https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?

Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like
this $150 one from Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html

Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.

Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the 
climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's weight 
so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it somewhere.

Chuck S
On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast. I 
was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but if I 
couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that purpose.

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I purchased something similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124241193190
but for a LOT less money, about the cost of a bosun's chair.  Mine has the 
climbing harness, a sewn strap that connects hands to feet, a pair of petzel 
ascenders and possibly a carabiner or two.

The frog system is the method of ascending/descending.  Basically, stand on 
left foot, raise right hand & foot together (right foot strap comes up with 
hand). Stand on now raised right foot and repeat for left side.  To descend, 
you control the rate of descent.  To be fair, I've never used it to climb the 
mast, just a test climb at a barn with a rock climber to understand how it all 
works.  One fear is that you would twist around the line being climbed.  Wear a 
helmet!!

Bob

> On 01/24/2021 10:25 AM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi Marek - have found the hoisting of my not quite 100kg to be a lot as 
> well. I’m not at all happy that I have the ascent sorted as well as I 
> should - needs to be simple and safe.
> Could you share Some detail or reference material on the ascenders you 
> use and the technique?
> 
> Thanks, Dave 
> 33-2 windstar.
> April 28 launch!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Jan 24, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > I don’t believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with 
> > the line used mainly as  safety.
> > 
> > When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have 
> > someone at the winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do 
> > it alone (and I often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
> > 
> > Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job 
> > that I don’t wish on anyone (so I don’t ask anyone to do it). Your legs are 
> > much stronger than arms (at least mine are).
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Marek
> > 
> > 1994 C270 Legato
> > 
> > Ottawa, ON
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> > Sent: January 24, 2021 8:32
> > To: Stus-List 
> > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden 
> > 
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Chuck
> > 
> > Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to 
> > hoist  a person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill 
> > alongside. 
> > 
> > Adam
> > 
> > Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > 
> > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
> > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  > mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net >
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Found "The Cranker" bit for $40. 
> > 
> > https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6? 
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecranker.com%2F%23_What_is_%25E2%2580%25A6%3F=04%7C01%7C%7Ccd971060ac944df5a55a08d8c06c8235%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637470919559431177%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=NShBOrMVZV8atunGViroXV2%2FzT0zbncXedVXsiIP1IQ%3D=0
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
> > 
> > I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like 
> > 
> > this $150 one from Harbor Freight
> > 
> > 
> > https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
> >  
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.harborfreight.com%2F13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html=04%7C01%7C%7Ccd971060ac944df5a55a08d8c06c8235%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637470919559431177%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=h1xMsyGLRTkWajfsgnaz77C31od2BMJskzIS5D8fRKk%3D=0
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote 
> > control.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight 
> > of the climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the 
> > climber's weight so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it 
> > but read it somewhere.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Chuck S 
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me 
> > > up the mast. I 

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

I bought one last year for main halyard and manual anchor windless. Very little 
boat use this year so I have not tried yet. I do have a source for the winch 
attachment if you need one. I got turned on to this by NEMA, (New England 
Multihull Association) they all use them for the huge square top mains on the F 
cats. The guy that makes the fitting is a member. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 23, 2021, at 11:49 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Found "The Cranker" bit for $40. 
> https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?
>  
> Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
> I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like 
> this $150 one from Harbor Freight
> https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
>  
> Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.
>  
> Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the 
> climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's weight 
> so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it somewhere.
>  
> Chuck S 
>> On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>  
>>  
>> I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast. I 
>> was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but if 
>> I couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that 
>> purpose.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either hoisting 
>> someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum and it 
>> seemed like a good idea.  Not sure if it is just gimmicky or if it really 
>> works?
>> Adam
>> C 36
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6KDiiMyeuwLjiU0YYjmv_O_oThiYEX0GKQhrYiAsxBbRfIpPdcnJSTJUTOa2GHKoFl0$
>>Thanks - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Tracks often lead to leaks. Rings sound like a good idea

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 12:33 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I imagine the toerail block isn't giving you the sheeting angle you want
> and that's why you want to add a track
>
> I'd look into using  Low Friction Rings and avoid adding tracks.  They've
> gotten the strength up on the rings and race boats are using these instead
> of blocks on tracks.  They reduce the number of fasteners and holes through
> the deck,   saves weight, saves cost, and provides the most adjustment
> possible.  You can keep the toerail block and add one low friction ring as
> an "In-Hauler" on the sheet located between the clew and the toerail block
> with a couple of smaller control lines running to jam cleats to position
> the ring higher/lower and in/out.  I think they even make a snatchblock
> style ring that might work better, as you can remove the inhauler when you
> want to pole out the genoa.
>
> You got me thinking.  I removed my deck hardware to paint the deck and now
> I am considering if I could install a friction ring system and leave the
> tracks off.  I'm gonna check my catalogs and check the loads involved and
> get back to you.
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena, Md
>
>
>
>
>
> On 01/23/2021 10:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>
> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
> I've been given these locations for adding track:
> *Inline tracks*
> Front 20.0 aft of tack
> Back 26.6 aft of tack
> Front off center line 3.5
> Back off center line  4.1
>
> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
> *130 %  Transverse*
> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>
> *155% Transverse*
> 23.1  aft of tack
>
> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>
> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi Marek - have found the hoisting of my not quite 100kg to be a lot as well.   
  I’m not at all happy that I have the ascent sorted as well as I should - 
needs to be simple and safe.
Could you share Some detail or reference material on the ascenders you use and 
the technique?

Thanks, Dave 
33-2 windstar.
April 28 launch!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 24, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I don’t believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with the line 
> used mainly as  safety.
> When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have someone at 
> the winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do it alone (and 
> I often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
> Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job that I 
> don’t wish on anyone (so I don’t ask anyone to do it). Your legs are much 
> stronger than arms (at least mine are).
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> Sent: January 24, 2021 8:32
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
>  
> Chuck
> 
> Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
> person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside. 
> Adam
> 
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>  
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
>  
> Found "The Cranker" bit for $40. 
> https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?
>  
> Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
> I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like 
> this $150 one from Harbor Freight
> https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
>  
> Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.
>  
> Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the 
> climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's weight 
> so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it somewhere.
>  
> Chuck S 
> On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast. I 
> was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but if I 
> couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that purpose.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>  
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either hoisting 
> someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum and it 
> seemed like a good idea.  Not sure if it is just gimmicky or if it really 
> works?
> Adam
> C 36
>  
>  
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6KDiiMyeuwLjiU0YYjmv_O_oThiYEX0GKQhrYiAsxBbRfIpPdcnJSTJUTOa2GHKoFl0$
>Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
> to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bob,

I use that track for my 155% and 125% headsails.  I use a small track by
the shrouds for a 95%.

I'll send you more pics off list.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 8:57 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'm also curious what cabin interiors look like where all the track bolts
> have come through.  If you have pictures, feel free to email me directly.
>
> Bob
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I'm also curious what cabin interiors look like where all the track bolts have 
come through.  If you have pictures, feel free to email me directly.

Bob

> On 01/23/2021 10:43 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Before I switched to a furling 135% genoa, which I use for racing and 
> cruising, I raced with a 105% genoa. My tracks are right up against the 
> cabin, and run from just aft of the shrouds to just forward of the 
> companionway. With the 105, I got a PHRF rating of nine seconds more than 
> with a 155, and I pointed five degrees higher than everyone else in the 
> fleet. The slight decrease in speed was more than made up with the better 
> pointing angle and better handicap. The smaller genoa allowed me to sheet in 
> a lot closer, as it doesn't get blocked by the shrouds.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my 
> area we used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe 
> rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, 
> the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I 
> already severely bent the port lifeline last year.
> >  
> > Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so 
> > I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the 
> > deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:
> > Inline tracks
> > Front 20.0 aft of tack
> > Back 26.6 aft of tack
> > Front off center line 3.5
> > Back off center line  4.1
> > 
> > Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
> > 130 %  Transverse
> > 19.5 Aft of jib tack
> > 
> > 155% Transverse 
> > 23.1  aft of tack
> >  
> > I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to 
> > the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday 
> > it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).  
> >  
> > What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
> > straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
> > Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have 
> > two months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7VWs6pv4pLsaUf7XvzeRZsiP_GyT5e6B1GBkxi-cn5kuufSf5Ua5mW1MVZIUigjBPpo$
> >Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don't believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with the line used 
mainly as  safety.
When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have someone at the 
winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do it alone (and I 
often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job that I don't 
wish on anyone (so I don't ask anyone to do it). Your legs are much stronger 
than arms (at least mine are).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: January 24, 2021 8:32
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

Chuck
Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
Adam
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

Found "The Cranker" bit for $40.
https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?

Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like
this $150 one from Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html

Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.

Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the 
climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's weight 
so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it somewhere.

Chuck S
On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast. I 
was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but if I 
couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that purpose.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either hoisting 
someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum and it seemed 
like a good idea.  Not sure if it is just gimmicky or if it really works?
Adam
C 36


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6KDiiMyeuwLjiU0YYjmv_O_oThiYEX0GKQhrYiAsxBbRfIpPdcnJSTJUTOa2GHKoFl0$
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Chuck

Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.
Adam

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

Found "The Cranker" bit for $40.
https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6?

Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like
this $150 one from Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html

Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote control.

Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight of the 
climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the climber's weight 
so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it but read it somewhere.

Chuck S
On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  wrote:


I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me up the mast. I 
was able to get almost all the way up on a full charge. Works great, but if I 
couldn't borrow the drill and bit, I wouldn't buy one just for that purpose.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 4:57 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Have any of you used the winch bit and a cordless drill for either hoisting 
someone aloft or for raising sails?  I came across it in a forum and it seemed 
like a good idea.  Not sure if it is just gimmicky or if it really works?
Adam
C 36


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6KDiiMyeuwLjiU0YYjmv_O_oThiYEX0GKQhrYiAsxBbRfIpPdcnJSTJUTOa2GHKoFl0$
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Vendee Globe

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The Vendee is really getting interesting.  Yannick Besthaven is splitting
with the leaders and heading north of the Azores.  Might be more wind
strength there.

Four of the lead pack have gone south of the Azores.  Two more are heading
north but could still turn east.  It's all about their weather routers now.

https://www.vendeeglobe.org/en/tracking-map
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bob,

You'll find that your cabinetry may limit where you can locate the tracks.
Here's a pic of Touche's genoa track.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvselJxa3llT0xQZzA/view?usp=sharing

Feel free to holler at me off list if you want.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 9:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>
> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
> I've been given these locations for adding track:
> *Inline tracks*
> Front 20.0 aft of tack
> Back 26.6 aft of tack
> Front off center line 3.5
> Back off center line  4.1
>
> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
> *130 %  Transverse*
> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>
> *155% Transverse*
> 23.1  aft of tack
>
> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>
> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

The beam of the Mk I is the same as the beam of my Mk II at 10.5 feet. A
high cut clew will help but the sheets will still chafe hard on the life
lines under some points of sail. My boat has inboard genoa tracks but there
is a limit on how close you can sail to apparent wind angle (point) and
still be fast from point A to B upwind. You will be able to sail higher in
light air, say below 10kts apparent but as wind speed increases footing off
will pay off. The design mainly because of keel and hull shape I believe
does not point as well as some newer designs. Besides the lifeline issue
you need to consider the shrouds. The Mk I has for and aft lowers with not
much distance between the uppers and the toe rail.

On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 11:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>
> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
> I've been given these locations for adding track:
> *Inline tracks*
> Front 20.0 aft of tack
> Back 26.6 aft of tack
> Front off center line 3.5
> Back off center line  4.1
>
> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
> *130 %  Transverse*
> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>
> *155% Transverse*
> 23.1  aft of tack
>
> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>
> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Furler

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Good morning sailor
I just bought myself a harken furler at the boat show
Does anyone need a furler with the forstay
It will come out of the mk1 30 foot
It a CD I furler
You may call me directly
905 818-1336
If you’re from the USA please text before calling
I don’t have a price in mind
Around 100$ to me or Stu donation
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu