Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Same here, mine has always worked great, never let me down.

 

Brad Crawford

Dora Pearl

C 36

Seattle

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2021 9:39 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

 

Get it. I have a Bruce knock off never left me down  even once

 

On Mon, Aug 23, 2021 at 11:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think it 
will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?

 

Joe

Coquina

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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Small Cabin Stove

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Hi Adam,

Nice table and layout in your 36.  Does that little heating stove work well
for you?  What brand is it and what fuel does it burn?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

C 36

Seattle

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Check out the you tube sailing channel “Sailing Uma”.  About a younger couple 
with a Pearson 36 they converted to electric and have sailed throughout the 
Bahamas, up the eastern US coast and across the Atlantic and are currently in 
the Netherlands.  They have interesting videos about their experience with an 
electric motor, might be worth the watch for you and your decision making.

Cheers,
Brad Crawford
C 36 “Dora Pearl”
Seattle



Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:40 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am going to be a bit contrary in my reply. I applaud your interest in 
> converting to electricity (as I have had that thought process), but after 
> just replacing the cylinder head on my two cylinder Yanmar, you may be 
> attempting a larger job than necessary.
>  
> A diesel is a simple engine. It is like an old car engine. Assuming it turns 
> over (which apparently it does as it overheats) what may be wrong is similar 
> to what I just experienced. Mine was overheating to the point where it would 
> not run. Repair, replace, new or used? Researching the options, I decided 
> that I would pull the head off and take a look.  I have some engine building 
> experience, but on Volkswagen and Porsche engines. A VW engine is also simple 
> as is a Porsche four cylinder. I figured a simple overhead valve diesel would 
> not be a killer project and it was not. Once the head is off (which was not 
> easy because of 40 years of rusty fasteners), the only thing needed to be 
> done to the block was to make sure the water passages were clear. That was 
> not easy because the engine was still in the boat and the working area was a 
> hassle. My old knees didn’t like me. I had to buy a new cylinder head as mine 
> was cracked (about a quarter inch between the exhaust valve and the injector) 
> where it would not be easy to weld. The new cylinder head was not cheap but 
> came complete with the valves installed, so it was rather simple to mount it. 
> Make sure you have the valves timed with the pistons and adjusted, and it 
> ran! Gat a new set of hoses, as the old ones never seem to go on as easy as 
> they come off. And, all the auxiliary stuff just bolts back on. I didn’t have 
> to realign anything, or build new mounts, design anything or figure out the 
> weights or any of that. And the cost was less than half of another old ‘take 
> out’ with questionable history and 1/10 or less than conversion to a new 
> diesel (counting things like exhaust system, prop, shaft, wiring, etc.)..
>  
> Just another viewpoint.
>  
> Gary Nylander, 30-1, 2QM15
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Fitteral 
> Mindspring via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Fitteral Mindspring fitte...@mindspring.com subject: Stus-List Repowering 
> a C 36 to Electric?
>  
> Hello all, 
>  
> I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question 
> (actually several). 
>  
> I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
> original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a 
> new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
> pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The 
> quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing 
> to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild 
> of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn’t terribly appealing to me.  
> Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don’t have 
> any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in 
> learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I 
> could avoid. 
>  
> I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat 
> with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an 
> occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages 
> at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible. 
>  
> I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
> however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring 
> solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while 
> underway.
>   
> The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which 
> we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing 
> them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel 
> engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy. 
>  
> Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
> conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
> primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to 
> go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the 
> electric. 
>  
> Also, if anyone recommendations for 

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic backstay adjuster rebuild?

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Lew Townsend in Seattle might be able to repair that for you.  He did a great 
job on our Navtec Pump, not sure if he does Hydra Tech?

 

His number is 206.498.7282

 

Good Luck,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36 - Seattle

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Wright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2019 3:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Stus-List Hydraulic backstay adjuster rebuild?

 

Hello all,

 

It appears that the backstay adjuster is in need of a rebuild. Although the 
gauge reads to 2500psi, it struggles to reach 500, and slowly bleeds down. It 
is marked Hydra Tech Marine, Vancouver, BC. (which appears to be out of 
business), and looks like this:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DmEJJG4KKXt66bxr5

 

Is this something I can rebuild myself by obtaining seals and o-rings, or 
should take it to a hydraulic shop?

 

Also, what range should it be set to on a '74 35, with twin forestays/furlers?

 

Thanks.


 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter mounting

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Mike,

Check this link out for a nice simple mount.  I did this on my 36 and it works 
well

 

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson

 

Brad

Dora Pearl

C  36

Seattle

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 4:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Crombie
Subject: Stus-List Chartplotter mounting

 

Hi all, I purchased a 7" Raymarine chartplotter for my 33 mkii.  I am looking 
for mounting suggestions. Should I get a "pod" and, if so,  from whom?  I don't 
really want a large, disproportionate one. Or should I just make my own out of 
plastic? 

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Atacama

C 33 mkii

 

On Fri, Oct 19, 2018, 10:17 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 
wrote:

 

I also have Navionics on my iPhone, OpenCPN on an Android tablet and a small 
text only handheld GPS so consider my system a bit multiplicative.

 

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Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Go visit marine sanitation supply next to fisheries supplies, they can help you 
out.

Brad
Dora  Pearl
C 36
Seattle

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 31, 2018, at 1:55 PM, Dave. via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> SLY has been using a Type 1 Sanitation System but these are no longer legal 
> in Puget Sound so we need to install a holding tank. Yuck! I looked in our 
> original C manual and found a 15.5 gallon holding tank listed. Not sure if 
> these were standard issue or an option but SLY did not come to us with a 
> holding tank. So my questions are:
> 1. Where were the holding tanks installed? 
> 2. What were there configuration? Dimensions?
> 3. Are these units or similar units available and from whom?
> Thanks again for your collective thoughts.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

What make, model, brand, type, style of welder did you use?  Lots of you tube 
videos online, all a little different, just curious as to what worked for you?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

Dora Pearl

C 36

Seattle

 

From: William Hall [mailto:wh...@alum.mit.edu] 
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2018 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

 

We had luck with welding. Get the right rod - LLDPE I think it is. Practice a 
little with a heat gun and it turns out great. 

 

Bill - 1985 c 37 starfire 

 

On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 9:03 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture in 
the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other  1981 C 
36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see if welding the 
polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or other manufacture 
tank ordered?  

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

C 36

“Dora Pearl”

Seattle

 

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-- 

William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu

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Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4" long hairline fracture
in the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other  1981
C 36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see if
welding the polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or other
manufacture tank ordered?  

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

C 36

"Dora Pearl"

Seattle

 

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Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Nice write up.  Yeah space is limited, my batteries are located under the 
quarter berth and there is a small amount of unused  space next to the battery 
box on the bulkhead separating the storage compartment behind the battery 
compartment.  I think I’ll be able to mount a negative buss bar also.

 

Thanks for sharing,

Brad

 

 

From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2018 6:31 PM
To: DON JONSSON
Cc: Brad Crawford; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

 

Similar install in our 33-2 as documented here:

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1

 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 10, 2018, at 2:08 PM, DON JONSSON  wrote:

We recently installed one on a 34.  We mounted it in the engine room where 
other electronic items,  wires, etc. are and there is also a large ground 
busbar there to make it easy to connect things in an orderly fashion.  The 
house batteries are about 2 feet away under the quarter berth.

The starter battery is on the other side under the sink.  So the location makes 
it easy to run the sensor wires to both banks.

We are happy with it.

Don Jonsson
Andante, Victoria

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 9, 2018, at 3:27 PM, Brad Crawford  wrote:

I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where others, 
particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts, if they 
have one?

Many thanks,

Brad Crawford
"Dora Pearl"
C 36
Seattle


Sent from my iPad





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Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where others, 
particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts, if they 
have one?

Many thanks,

Brad Crawford
"Dora Pearl"
C 36
Seattle


Sent from my iPad

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Stus-List Stainless Steel Mixing Elbows

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I am in the process of replacing my Yanmar mixing elbow on our 3HM motor.
Does anyone have any experience with the stainless replacements being
offered by HDI marine out of Vancouver Wa.?  The price looks to be a little
less and they look good on the website. 

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

Dora Pearl

C 36

Seattle

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Re: Stus-List baby stay

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Well said, I agree

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 26, 2017, at 6:10 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My 1984 C 32 has a very robust mast.as was stated "more like an 
> aluminum telephone pole",  nevertheless Rob Ball decided to outfit the rig 
> with a baby stay and for that reason, it stays on the boat.  It is a PITA 
> when tacking but you get to know your boat and learn how to make efficient 
> tacks by back winding the genoa to avoid the sail catching on the baby stay.  
> 
> I am confident that the boat would perform fine without the baby stay on most 
> day sails but since it is there, it will be attached and tensioned.  Maybe on 
> these rigs, the baby stay helps to induce 'rake' on these otherwise 'aluminum 
> telephone poles'.
> 
> There was another C 32 84 at our club whose owner took the baby stay off 
> completely and he didn't appear to have any issues with his rig.
> 
> If I had one of the C models with the bendy masts, 3 spreaders, etc. I 
> would definitely keep the baby stay tensioned.  We raced a 34R for several 
> years and I can assure you that boat benefited from a tensioned baby stay. 
> 
> So for me, if the boat designer thought a baby stay was needed, then I will 
> use it.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
>> On 2017-10-25 10:21 PM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>> I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
>> babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of 
>> the season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the 
>> clutch, and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.  
>> Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
>> actively use the baby stay.
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>>> On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby 
>>> stay to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary 
>>> on your boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed 
>>> in a Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely 
>>> requires it you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if 
>>> your spreaders are not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more 
>>> like aluminum telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby 
>>> stay notwithstanding. My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively 
>>> bendy mast. The spreaders are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans 
>>> to ever take her seriously off-shore and I sail/race in the protected 
>>> waters of the NC sounds and the PITA the baby stay is in tacking upwind and 
>>> removing it for flying the kite, my sailmaker recommend it's removal, which 
>>> I did and have never looked back. Now if I planned to go offshore, I would 
>>> put it back on board for the SOLE reason of preventing mast pumping fore 
>>> and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to miss!
>>> Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory 
>>> but in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast 
>>> pumping fore and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in 
>>> protected waters and  have never missed it (but the attachment below and 
>>> rod as well as the rolled up stay are kept on board anyway!
>>> 
>>> FWIW
>>> 
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
>>> Water Phantom
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
 attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the 
 v-berth area. I don't have a track on mine.
 
 If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a 
 lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  
 left if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much 
 glass I would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.
 
 I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
 together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?
 
 Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's 
 in the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.
 
 Thanks,
 Kevin
 
> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, 
> and dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. 
> Would serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, 
> but look around at what is possible since probably would be done this way 
> today on a new boat. Cheaper, 

Re: Stus-List News story

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

What happened to sailing?

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 26, 2017, at 4:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the 
> Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise functional 
> boat.  Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker and a year’s 
> supply of oatmeal.  Something not add up here?  And who really has a 1 year 
> supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog? 
> 
> Gotta be more coming on this one...
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!


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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Very cool, nice treat, especially close to home.  Thanks for sharing.

 

Brad Crawford

Dora Pearl

81’ C 36

Elliott Bay

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

 

Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in Eagle 
Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and dinner at the 
Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were treated to this pod 
of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we sailed with them off our 
port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times they swam directly under the 
boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and 
one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still 
high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!

 

https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk

 

My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything but 
squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs and 
perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a little 
bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on our way to 
and from Lake Union!

 

Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
southern hemisphere)! 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for
sure?  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to
pictures you could share? Maybe share them off list?

 

bcrawf7...@comcast.net

 

Fellow Skier

Brad Crawford

C 36

Seattle, WA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Hoyne via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

 

The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart
on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to
Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 

 

Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high
on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath
:-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to
17,000' we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our
skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000' and promptly got headaches and a
bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with
a 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit
at 19,000'. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We
had to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1"
of crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The
nearby volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the
snow. It was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases however).


 A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700'.
We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We
negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required
and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route
finding on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding
the best way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but
made it back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 

Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate
change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm
dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing
maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 

I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to
Bow Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It's amazing how much
oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!

Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)

 

Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!

 

Bill

 

 

Bill Hoyne

Mithrandir

'74 C MkII

in Victoria,BC

 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Yes, we are scheduled for a haul out and the Full Monte as Martin put it.
It doesn't make sense to have spent a bunch of money on a transmission
rebuild and not take it all the way, to insure we have smooth running gear
all the way through. Could have been the root of the problem all along, the
rear main seal on the tranny had been leaking for a while.  Hopefully the
shaft is in good shape.

More later, 

Thanks for all the good advice,

Brad Crawford
CnC 36 Dora Pearl
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2015 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wally Bryant
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

Brad.  Fix it.  It will cost you more later, unless you plan to sell and
have no soul.


you wrote:
 snip My question to the group is has anyone else been running around
with a loose
 coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of the 
strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the zinc 
stays put?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad 

 

 

From: Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca] 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. 
It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 
3/8 from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is 
wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just 
on my mind as one of those  not quite right things

 

Brent

27-5

Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, like 
possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, which 
secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is movement 
of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have the boat 
hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided the shaft is 
ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then reinstalled for a 
final alignment.  

 

My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose 
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36

Seattle

 

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Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8 of rotational movement on the shaft,
like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws,
which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is
movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It's been recommended that I have
the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided
the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then
reinstalled for a final alignment.  

 

My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36

Seattle

 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Martin,

 

What would be your suggestion, CSR,  Canal, or Seaview for those repairs?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36

Seattle

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 11:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Brad,

 

If you are planning on a typical PNW San Juan's and further north summer
cruise you will be putting many hours on your auxiliary engine. (Summer in
the San Juan's turns sailboats into slow power boats.)  Performing the full
shaft/coupling repair now would be a good idea.

 

If you plan on a short motor out of the marina and then shutting down the
mechanical propulsion you may be able to fit a larger woodruff key, larger
set screws/bolts, and follow the other advice regarding placing a zinc
forward of the shaft log in case the low budget repair fails.  If the
coupling remains loose on the shaft expect additional vibration and wear on
both the shaft and coupling plus a clunk when shifting between forward and
reverse.

 

If you do go the full monte and pull the shaft, take a close look at your
cutlass bearing as it would be easy to replace at the same time.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad
Crawford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 11:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8 of rotational movement on the shaft,
like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws,
which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is
movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It's been recommended that I have
the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided
the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then
reinstalled for a final alignment.  

 

My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36

Seattle

 

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Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, amazing how fast those boats go, and what a great day.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry 
Hallgring via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 6:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Harry Hallgring
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport

 

Thanks for the kind words Pierre!

 

Here are a few shots from Sunday's VOR leg start. We were on Alvimedica's chase 
boat...great day!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157652015578858

Harry

Sent from my iPhone


On May 18, 2015, at 09:55, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the 
water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list.

 

Pierre Tremblay 
Avalanche #54988 
CC38-3 WK, hull #76

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Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Maybe this has been asked or covered before?  Has anyone experienced
transmission fluid leaking from the rear of their transmission?  I suspect
it is a rear seal that has worn or gone bad.  Were you able to have the seal
replaced with the transmission in the boat or did you have to remove the
transmission?

 

Wondering what I am in for,

 

Brad

Dora Pearl

CC 36

Seattle

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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I switch the key on, the alarm buzzer buzzes as normal, I depress the start 
button, and the only thing I see or hear, is the lights light up on the control 
panel.  No clicking sounds, no starter sounds, nothing.  I will check out and 
go through the start circuit wiring.

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

CC 36

Elliott Bay 

 

From: Martin DeYoung [mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 10:23 AM
To: Raymond Macklin; Brad Crawford
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

 

 Could it be heat related.

 

As the temp rises so does the DC resistance.  If the start / run wiring has 
loose or corroded connections or undersized / corroded wires they may pass 
enough voltage and current to work at lower temperatures but not when hot.

 

A starter solenoid may suffer from voltage drop as the wiring heats up pushing 
it from just barely working to not working.

 

Brad, when you say nothing happened, does that mean the starter did not crank?  
If so, I would follow the wiring from the key back to the starter and tighten 
the connections if loose, repair corrosion if found before replacing the 
starter and solenoid.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: Raymond Macklin [mailto:ray.mack...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 3:55 AM
To: Brad Crawford
Cc: Martin DeYoung; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

 

Everyone:

Thanks for the input.  I replaced the 30 amp fuse like i was instructed and it 
started up right away.  Brad brings up a good point.  Could it be heat related. 
 I guess I should have tried starting it before replacing the fuse, but i 
immediately changed the fuse and it worked.  I looked at the fuse and it still 
looked good.  However, it was an OLD fuse.  Only time will tell if it is heat 
related.

Ray

 

On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 11:56 PM, Brad Crawford bcrawf7...@comcast.net wrote:

I had a similar issue this last weekend. We  motored from Elliott Bay to Port 
Ludlow, set the hook, shut the engine off, about a half hour later I decided to 
relocate the anchor.  I depressed the starter switch and nothing happened, 
tried a couple of times, no start.  So we stayed put figuring I’d tackle the 
problem in the morning.  The next morning she started right up.  On the way 
back a few days later, we motored from Kingston back to Elliott Bay Marina, we 
stopped at the fuel dock to empty the waste tank, when finish I again depressed 
the start button to move on to our slip.  Same thing, no start, I checked 
around looking for something obvious that may have caused the problem, found 
nothing, so we waited about 45 – 60 minutes.  After a cool down time I tried 
again depressing the start switch and she started right up. I think my issue 
may be heat related but not sure?  Could it be the switch, fuse or fuse holder, 
solenoid, or starter?  Any ideas? Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks,

Brad

81 CC 36

Elliott Bay 

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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

I had a similar issue this last weekend. We  motored from Elliott Bay to Port 
Ludlow, set the hook, shut the engine off, about a half hour later I decided to 
relocate the anchor.  I depressed the starter switch and nothing happened, 
tried a couple of times, no start.  So we stayed put figuring I’d tackle the 
problem in the morning.  The next morning she started right up.  On the way 
back a few days later, we motored from Kingston back to Elliott Bay Marina, we 
stopped at the fuel dock to empty the waste tank, when finish I again depressed 
the start button to move on to our slip.  Same thing, no start, I checked 
around looking for something obvious that may have caused the problem, found 
nothing, so we waited about 45 – 60 minutes.  After a cool down time I tried 
again depressing the start switch and she started right up. I think my issue 
may be heat related but not sure?  Could it be the switch, fuse or fuse holder, 
solenoid, or starter?  Any ideas? Has anyone else experienced this?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

81 CC 36

Elliott Bay 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 10:35 AM
To: Raymond Macklin; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

 

I had a similar issue with a 1980 CC 36’s 3 cyl. Yanmar after a night passage. 
 The electrical load from the running lights and other nav equipment caused a 
fuse located at the back of the engine to blow.  The fuse was in an in-line 
holder as part of the wire harness.  This was approx. 20 years ago so I don’t 
recall which circuit it was part of but it may have been the 12V supply for 
both the lights and the electric fuel lift pump.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 5:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 2GM20F Engine will not start - Possible Fuse Issue.

 

Hello:

I have a 1985 CC 33-2 with a Yanmar, Diesel 2GM20F engine.  I was sailing last 
night and started the motor like normal to get out of harbor.  However, when I 
went to  come back in to the harbor.  I proceed to follow my normal process.  I 
put the transmission in Neutral and reached down to turn the key and heard the 
whistle sound and press the start button.  NOTHING HAPPENED.  Kept trying on 
different batteries and still nothing.  I also looked at the gauges with the 
motor would not start and my gas gauge read empty and i know i have a full tank.

We got back into the harbor and someone showed my how to jump the motor.  I 
started right up.  He indicated it might be a fuse.

Is anyone familiar with the location of the fuse between the key and the motor 
and the type of fuse i may be needing to repair this.  

Thanks,

Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL

 

Diesel - Yanmar 2GM20F, fresh water cooled

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Stus-List Barient Model 27 2 speed self tailing winch parts

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Does anyone know of a source for Barient Winch parts?  The line lifter on
our model 27's broke and I am looking for a replacement.  It is a Barient
27, 2 speed, self tailing.

 

Thanks,

 

Brad 

CnC 36

Seattle 

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Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Do you think it would work well on a black pedestal?  Mine has been eroding 
away in a few spots over the years.  Might be best to remove the pedestal and 
have the whole thing powder coated, but maybe the zinc chromate primer and 
black paint might get me by for a few year?  What do you think?  Anyone have 
any luck with painting over the cancer while still on the boat?

Thanks,

Brad
CnC 36
Dora Pearl
Seattle

Sent from my iPad

 On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:45 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Tom,
 
 I've used zinc chromate primer and black spray paint.  It has held up well.
 The primer has a tenacious hold, while the black spray paint may need a
 touch up after a couple of years.  Overall, I'd say it works well.
 
 Jake
 
 
 Jake Brodersen
 Midnight Mistress
 CC 35 Mk-III
 Hampton Va
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
 Buscaglia via CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 12:27 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating
 
 The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked
 off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...
 
 Tom Buscaglia
 S/V Arera 
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon WA
 P 206.463.9200
 
 
 
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 page at:
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Stus-List Signet SL 172 Depth Gauge

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

My Coastal Navigator DDS 200 depth gauge which is no longer in business seems 
to have retired itself.  I'm thinking the instrument itself has gone bad, not 
the transducer.  We just had the boat out of the water in April for fresh 
bottom paint, so I really don't want to pull her out again to replace the 
transducer.  I'm hoping the existing transducer will work with a new depth 
gauge instrument such as a Signet SL172 depth gauge.  I talked to Signet and 
they believe it should work, as most transducers operate on 200 kHz.  
Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with replacing their depth 
gauge using the existing transducer, what kind did you use, and did it work ok? 
 I'm thinking about the Signet Gauge to match the existing knot log, wind 
speed, and apparent wind indicator, which are all Signet.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Brad
81' CnC 36
Seattle

Sent from my iPad

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