Re: Stus-List Tacking Down an Asym on a 30 MK I

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Following this closely.
Generally, the C&C 30 with it's smallish main covering the largish 
headsail doesn't go downwind fast.  Getting a sym spin out from behind
the main greatly improves it's downwind speed.  I don't see where an 
Asym would improve that scenario much at all, especially without a sprit 
pole.
The angles would be near what you'd have to sail to keep a headsail 
full...albeit there would be a lot more of it in a light wind.


Generally, hoisting and dousing the spin doesn't take my team very long 
at all. Hoist would definitely be equivalent to unfurling. Light wind douses
into the bag on the foredeck or in moderate winds into the cockpit 
behind the main and headsails is pretty quick.  Does take some practice tho.


If you've got light wind reaching a drifter/asym would do you great 
gains.  C&C 30 has the shortest mast and highest ballest ratio to any

of the C&C's, so it's never gonna be a light wind competative boat.

Food for thought.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 5/15/2020 2:05 PM, Donald Kern via CnC-List wrote:

Randy,

Most PHRF rating organizations will adjust (negatively) your rating 
for adding a tack point forward of the "J" measurement of the boat. 
You may receive a credit for both a retrofit application and due to a 
smaller sail area for a spinnaker - depends on the rating rules for 
your PHRF organization.  Also an asymmetrical spinnaker is a free fly 
sail, thus adding a hard furler is not done for an asym.  I do not 
understand why you stated "So I can’t just shackle an asym tack line 
block to the spare headsail shackle on the stem, and hoist/douse the 
asym using a sock." That should be an option. Lastly, the 30 Mk1 was 
designed to go deep downwind with a symmetrical spinnaker, which would 
have a greater sail area projected to windward an inherently faster 
than a asym rig deep downwind.  The plus side that an asym would give 
your 30 Mk1 would be on reaching legs.  Hope this helps.


Don Kern
Fireball C&C35 Mk2
Bristol, RI
Commo. PHRF-NB



--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Drywall sander

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Ah, Sorry mis-understood.  Well, if I get one to finish the drywall on 
my cottage, I'll take it down to the boat and make you
a video.   I've used drywall sanding screen on my boat bottom with a 
pole sander (manual) for a few years.  Found it way

better than just regular sandpaper to get the bulk off.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 5/11/2020 9:46 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks Jeff,

I did see those videos and reviews, it’s just that I just couldn’t 
find anyone using a 7800 long sander on a boat bottom.


Like someone else said, there is a significant difference between 
sanding drywall and bottom paint, and I was just curious if someone 
had scratched the surface in the boat field, no pun intended.


Bill Coleman.






--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Drywall sander

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Did a search on Youtube and found a few pages worth:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=drywall+sanding+machine

Including some reviews...
https://youtu.be/4dKlP-3lKuM

https://youtu.be/5iUrcWlG7VM

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 5/10/2020 4:37 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


Digging a little more, I see there is a Full Circle pad,

https://www.amazon.com/Full-Circle-International-R360-Interchangeable/dp/B000WQL5CO?th=1

that is not supposed to flip.  Also offered as a flex air tool, with a 
hose to suck the dust, but then I am up to $140.


I can’t believe that I can’t find even one YouTube Video with someone 
using one of these power drywall sanders –


And now to buy one, delivery isn’t until June.

Bill Coleman

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, May 05, 2020 8:50 AM
*To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
*Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Drywall sander

Bill

That looks nice but is a LOT more expensive than the other option you 
were using.  I also use the drywall sander on a stick and once it is 
against the surface it does not flip over any longer.  Is great for a 
light wet sand after applying new coat of bottom paint.


Mike Hoyt

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Bill 
Coleman via CnC-List

*Sent:* May 4, 2020 10:29 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* Stus-List Drywall sander

I was sanding the bottom this weekend with a drywall sander pad on a 
stick. And it was sure a lot easier than holding a sander over my 
head. And that crocus cloth material for sanding really holds up well 
and doesn't gum up. But the pad kept flipping over and was annoying at 
times . And I was wondering if there was a more professional pad, so I 
googled, and found rotary Sanders with vacuum. Does anyone know anyone 
using something like this?


https://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Porter-Cable-Sander-Pro-Packs/Porter-Cable-Drywall-Sander.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QOr7GremTf5Gg_bJREva54MMWijKE2TqJHv47VHFN1WRojtsSKUR78aAnq2EALw_wcB

Bill Coleman


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Backstay adjuster- is there too much of a good thing?

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

If the mast is on the deck it's too much.  :-)

If you have block and tackle on your split backstay, I'd be surprised if 
1 human could pull it beyond the limits.
If you have a hydraulic backstay, there's like a pressure guage which 
would give you a number.


Here's a link to discussion on Sailing Anarchy
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/143630-how-much-backstay-is-too-much/

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 5/10/2020 10:55 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have a split backstay with a car that pulls the two arms together to 
tighten the forestay.  I am in the process of fine tuning the rig and 
as the last step will adjust the turnbuckles on the backstays to set a 
neutral (backstay off) position.  My question is, do I have to worry 
about the possibility of setting it up so that I can apply too much 
tension through the backstay?  In other words, is it possible to do 
damage to the rig by applying too much backstay?  If so, how would I 
know what is too much?  Thanks- Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Nova Scotia Listers

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Very small community near my cottage had someone go in murder a bunch of 
people.  So very sad.


https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/rcmp-weapon-lockdown-portapique-1.5537598

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/19/2020 8:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Dennis!  You're alive!  There were inquiries about your status after 
storms rolled through a week or two ago.  What happened in Nova Scotia?


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Apr 19, 2020, 19:02 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I hope none of our Nova Scotia listers were affected by the
incident today.

Dennis C.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Nova Scotia Listers

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Drove through Portapique 2ce yesterday. Fortunately safe at home today.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/19/2020 8:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I hope none of our Nova Scotia listers were affected by the incident 
today.


Dennis C.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My 
wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...

but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the 
whole thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be 
sure, just use the gear puller.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see
what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com 



On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is
square and not tapered. Tapered shafts in later years have a
Woodruff key which is crescent shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should
do the trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened
steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hi,

Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy
 AutoHelm ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt
/drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal with the control levers (up ,
Down)  on each side which appear original for sure.

BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out
(snug but easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and
sticks there? Almost like its tapered?  You can see in picture
here the Keyway ?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0

Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at
all. Or do I need to just put little more lube and little more
elbow grease? I don’t want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!

Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at
least that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to
do so,with or without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into
the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I made my own from aluminum bar from my local metal shop.  The old ones 
had broken, but was able to use most of it as
a rough template.  If yours are like mine.  The are basically over sized 
popcycle sticks.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/8/2020 1:41 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Did you happen to have an atomic 4 with reduction drive as well.  Mine is very 
difficult to put in and out of gear.  I have a 12" bilge pump lever on it and 
requires an enormous amount of force.  Folks on my boat under 150lbs can't really 
get it in/out full gear.  I will be changing the cable at the same time so hoping 
that helps.  I've been told it does need lots of leverage, just by design.  Just 
don't know what the right amount is - it seems too much.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416-799-5549

-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins 
Sent: April 8, 2020 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal Gear Shift

It is an old Edison, with up/down moving levers that stick out to either side 
and the cables go through an aft pair of guard tubes. I owned an
1980 Aloha with this setup.  You might be able to find one e-bay or one of the 
big consignment shops, or you could retrofit the more common lever setup to the 
pedestal but that would be $$$.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-08 1:01 p.m., Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:

I didn't have great pics in my files of that pedestal from any side.
I'll hopefully be heading to the boat for the first time this spring
and will get some pictures.  It is definitely Edson.  I should give
them a call but didn't think they had '81 vintage parts.

Paul Hood
'81 C&C34
Georgian Bay
-




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Exit plate for a '76 C&C 24?

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

You mean like this:
https://www.deckhardware.com.au/halyard-exit-plate


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 3/29/2020 2:16 PM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List wrote:
Try Vela Sail. 
https://www.velasailingsupply.com/allen-brothers-halyard-exit-plate-116mm/Mikel 
Brannon

Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



On Mar 28, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Eugene Cormier via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Folks, just wondering if any of you might know where to source an exit plate for 
a C&C 24
from the mid-70s?

here's a pic of the starboard side of the mast with the exit plate:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZcB7Dc4p9fJEF2JN6

here's a pic of the port side with the missing exit plate and a ruler 
for sizing:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7Njr6eLr6EebviX7

Thanks for any help and keep safe,
Eugene

Eugene Cormier
Assistant Head of Music
Full-time Instructor
Acadia University
www.eugenecormier.com 
eugenecorm...@gmail.com 
Office: Denton Hall Rm.235
Office Hours:
Phone: (902) 585-1329

---
Statement of Confidentiality
This message (including attachments) may contain confidential or
privileged information intended for a specific individual or
organization. If you have received this communication in error, please
notify the sender immediately. If you are not the intended recipient,
you are not authorized to use, disclose, distribute, copy, print or rely
on this email, and should promptly delete this email from your entire
computer system.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List dorade vents

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

That's what I did on mine after my foredeck guys kicked 4 of them over 
board in 4 weeks.  I  have enough pipe
for another 2 or 3 seasons...perhaps by then they will figure out where 
their feet are.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 3/11/2020 9:46 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List wrote:

Not pretty, but 4” dis white plumbing elbows fit.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 10, 2020, at 10:33 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:



After loosing two over two weekends i replaced them but drilled holes 
in them so they would not leave the boat. Works great.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1985 CNC 33-2 Pedestal Throttle handle

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Which type do you have?  Got a picture?

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 7/12/2019 9:19 PM, Ray Macklin via CnC-List wrote:

I broke my throttle and I need to replace it. Does anyone know where I might be 
able to get one.  Or I could replace both if i have to.

Ray
LaheHouse
MILWAUKEE WI.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List dropping 29-2 rudder

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Should be the same for most C&C's  I just replaced my rudder after work 
last week.  Takes about an hour if everything is free.

Here's the steps:
- remove steering cables from quadrant
- remove quadrant 4 bolts on either side of the shaft and 2 little bolts 
holding the thing together

- remember to catch the key from the shaft when you take the quadrant off.
- Have someone hold onto the rudder
- Remove donut at top of rudder post.  Should be 2 set screws or a bolt 
that goes straight through

- Rudder drops out.

If things are not free...ie the stainless steel bolts have welded 
themselves to the quadrant...then the only option is to
grind the thing off.  Not much fun.  I had to do that to my quadrant and 
donut the 1st time I removed my rudder.  Took better
part of a day to get through the quadrant and an hour or so to get 
through the donut (amaizing how much have a bit of space makes life easier.


Replacement parts are available at Edson and 
https://southshoreyachts.com/  Albeit shouldn't be too hard to 
re-manufacture a stainless steel donut.


My C&C 30 I can do this with the boat on the cradle as there is enough 
room to get it out completely.  My cradle is on 6X6 skids...but it shouldn't

matter.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 5/20/2019 5:11 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:

What is the process for dropping the rudder on a 29-2?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Access

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Bottom of this page should help you out:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 12/19/2018 8:12 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List wrote:

We joined this list a few years ago as Breakaweigh 1,  have since sold it and 
purchased a 35 mk3 , had a question re rust on fibreglass, any tips on removing 
it!

Liz McDonald
Rhumb Runner
Belfast Maine

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List baby on board

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I would second Graham's comments.  We sailed with our kids, one whom was 
severely disabled.  I learned that a sailboat has
lots of places to hang an IV, and that we could still have a lot of 
really good family times sailing and cruising.  Racing was out for a bit.
My daughter started sailing 6 months before she was born, and now at 20 
has taken on a whole race team of her own.
We have lots of stories of cruising together and enjoy our time on the 
water.


There is actually a pretty good book written by Lyndsay Green titled: 
Babies Aboard for lots of ideas on sailing with kids.

Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/Babies-Aboard-Lyndsay-Green/dp/0071560300

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 9/28/2018 7:12 AM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:


Stephen, a baby on board can be readily done.  We bought our first 
boat when my wife was pregnant, using the logic that we'd be too 
exhausted and full of excuses after the baby arrived.


It just requires some planning and modifications to behavior. I can 
singlehand the boat, so my wife was (unfortunately living up to a 
sexist generalization) on kid duty.  We put lifeline netting up all 
around 'til he was 5, and bolted a car seat down in the v-berth.  
Going for an afternoon sail we would sail with him in the cockpit for 
a while, but then put him in the car seat with a bottle and blanket, 
he'd sleep a couple of hours.


Lee clothes also make a great pseudo playpen and a snug place for 
playing or napping.


I did once get a complaint that we were heeled over too far, his toys 
kept falling over, and I did have recurring nightmares of having a 
bilge pump clogged with Lego, but all in all an excellent experience 
and he is now an excellent sailor.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11




---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I made mine out of 4" white sewar pipe because my crew kept punting them 
overboard.  Oddly enough, since I've
replaced them, I have only had to replace 1 of the vents since (2 years 
now)...whereas when I was purchasing the rather expensive

vents, it was 2 or 3 a year.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.


On Sep 22, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Where did you get the flexible cowl only?  I only found the whole item 
and not the lost part.  I lost the two at the stern as well.


Ron

Wild Cheri

C&C 30-1

STL

On Thursday, September 13, 2018, 10:28:23 AM CDT, Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


And, like Gary said, that cowl vent gets in the way.  Mine popped off 
and went overboard in some chaotic moment in a race this year, and I 
had to get a replacement.  Plus I’m always worried those anchor 
hangers are going to tear a sail, but so far so good.


Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Looking to replace bracket for windex on C&C 35

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Correct website is:
https://shop.yachtshop.ca/

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/28/2018 8:09 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Yacht shop. I think is www.yachtshop.ca

I bought one with light for our last boat. Ironically after that I never sailed 
that boat after dark

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, ns

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: April 27, 2018 8:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking to replace bracket for windex on C&C 35

Matthew,

Good options on eBay for the Windex and/or light.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/davis-windex

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Apr 27, 2018, at 6:57 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello C&C list,

I have not been here for a while but the weather is turning nice and I found my 
masthead fly, also known as a windex, broken and on the ground.
It’s always something.
Mast was down, I guess I should have removed it.

This is for a C&C 35 mk3.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the bracket, with a lamp.
Alternatively, any suggestions for replacing the whole thing if I can’t find a 
bracket.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 mkIII


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin top grab-rail removal/refasten 30' MK1

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

The handrails are screwed or bolted into the interior cabin handrails, 
if yours is like mine.  Take the plugs out
and you will have access.  There are a few areas where there isn't a 
handrail, and you should find plugs in the
fiberglass (either plastic or metal).  If they are screwed together, I'd 
say probably want to bolt them back together...

I don't have a huge amount of faith in screws for something that important.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/15/2018 1:56 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List wrote:

With the cabin headliner on my 1980 30’ MK1 being one solid piece, there are no 
accessible bolts for the cabin top grab rail. I’m sure I could figure out how 
to remove the grab rail but without a bolt to hold the underside to tighten it 
back up I’m a bit lost. Does anyone know how how I’d refasten one of these to 
the cabin top?

I suppose one way to find out would be to cross my fingers remove the grab 
rails, and have look around.

Thanks
Chris
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Replace Engine mounts
Shaft Log
Cutlass bearing
Prop
Holding Tank
Move depth and speed instrument to newly made over the companionway pod
re-seal main cabin windows

If there is any budget left over:
re-install teak and holy floor

--
Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax

On 4/3/2018 2:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

Now that April is finally here, I was curious as to what you have 
planned for your Spring projects.


On the Enterprise:

1. Remove and service hydraulic autopilot pump
2. Re-vinyl Starfleet markings
3. Service Refrigeration
4. Install new hot water heater
5. Paint bottom

… and if you’re down south somewhere and have been in the water and 
sailing already, I hate you.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Do you know any really good practical jokers?

I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket and 
the key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.




On 1/23/2018 9:54 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...

I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up 
when the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks 
ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to 
port.  By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of 
rudder.   After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this 
time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of 
adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel. This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the 
wheel sprocket.


All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back 
only to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  
During these adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable 
deflection adjusted to be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), 
without getting so tight as to reduce the feel of the wheel.  I've 
notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing.


During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts 
were a little loose, and tightened those.


Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, 
and the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is 
somehow jumping on the sprocket.


Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List new haylards

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

When I replaced my halards (main and headsail) I used the same wire rope 
combo that was original with the boat.


I race lightly, and cruise.  Definitely it was the cheapest option.  My 
rigger had indicated that a good inspection of the sheaves at the
crane should be done if going to an all rope version, as sometimes the 
wire will have chewed into the sheaves which will cause
it to chew into your new expensive rope.  Also, you would need to check 
to see if the new rope halyard would fit in the sheaves properly,
ie the shoulders and tracke of the sheave are wide enough to accept the 
rope halardy.  Probably saved me a few hundred bucks and
works just fine.  If you go the all rope route and need to replace your 
sheaves, Zypherwerks can make them for your:


http://www.zephyrwerks.com/sheaves.html


Not sure what you mean my foresail, perhaps Spinnaker?  Those are 
external run on my boat and lead to a block outside forward part of the
crane.  I'd like to get them a little further out, but haven't gotten to 
that project yet, as if the Spin isn't fully flying it can get snagged 
in the headsail


when furling itbut with a little training everything works just 
ifne.  My spin halards are all rope based XLS, which I know has more 
stretch than
other lines, but then again I'm not racing for americas cup...just 
around the buoys for some fun.



Hope this helps in your decision process.


--
Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


On 12/10/2017 7:08 AM, T power via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Everyone,


I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C&C 30 
MKI, my foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used 
by new sailor for cruising.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

or non-threaded rod and a die to cut the threads as much as you need.


On 10/14/2017 9:23 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

threaded rod with a nut?
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 8:19 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Yep...3" is the longest



David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650  (cell)




*From:* CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf of Gary Russell
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* Friday, October 13, 2017 7:55 PM
*To:* C&C List
*Cc:* Gary Russell
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt
Have you tried McMaster-Carr

?


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 13, 2017 at 6:43 PM, David via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So I have a Series 41 Aqua Signal Bow light.  Dont ask me how
but the bolt that keeps it all together deep sixed.


No problem, I said as it went in, I can get another one from
Aqua Signal.   Three emails.  No response.


So I have been trying to find a 3 1/4" long # 4 bolt.   Seems
like a holy Grail bolt to me.


Any suggestions?


Thanks, */once again/*, in advance.


1981 40-2


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have
gone up again.  October will be our fund raising month. 
Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this
list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone
up again.  October will be our fund raising month. Please consider
sending a small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Might try checking the ground on the engine.  Mine had that problem a 
number of years ago, taking it off and cleaning it up
solved the problem.  Of course mine is a diesel and yours is gas, but I 
would expect that the ground would be wired similarly.

Food for thought.


On 9/18/2017 8:15 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Doug,

No noise whatsoever when I pushed the starter button.  It was as if 
there wasn’t enough current to activate the starter, but the batteries 
*did* have enough charge at the time.


Cheers,
Randy

On Sep 18, 2017, at 3:08 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Randy,
Are you getting any noise out of starter (click) when trying to 
start? Even if you are hydro locked you should hear a click at the 
starter solenoid if electrics are good.
Check the coil for cracks, check points and condenser, or electronic 
pick-up, ignition switch for loose/bad connections.

Good luck.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah LF39

 Original message 
From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List >

Date: 9/18/17 07:29 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Randal Stafford >

Subject: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Listers-

I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some 
thoughts to share.


When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as 
always.  But then she cut out heading away from the marina.  
Initially I suspected a fuel flow problem, as the petcock on the tank 
has become difficult to turn.  After ensuring the petcock was in the 
open position and the tank was full, she started right up again and 
ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut out again, and 
wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a couple 
hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries 
didn’t have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous 
cranking, though my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked 
under sail power, pulled the batteries, and brought them home to 
charge.  They both tested at 12.7 volts and 83% charge when I put 
them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% and 12.9 volts.


So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty 
starter circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having 
the same effect as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get 
into the lazarette and start tracing the wiring and testing with a 
multimeter, but that’s my next step.  I thought I’d write the list 
first to see if anyone has any quick hypotheses.


Thanks in Advance,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 301- #7
Ken Caryl, CO
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Drawers for 1983 C&C 37

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Pretty much any cabinet maker in your area should be able to reproduce 
them.  If you can salvage the face off the drawers you'll
have a good match to the existing cabinetry.  If you can find someone 
take them the drawers and they can re-produce.


If you just need hardware...www.leevalleytools.com has an extensive 
drawer hardware section.


--
Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax

On 9/18/2017 6:29 PM, Tom Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone have a source for the three small galley drawers that are 
in the galley of the C&C. An expanding foam OOPS has made ours semi 
usable. Looking for full drawers or parts or information on a source 
to build new drawers.






Best regards,
Tom Jacobs
(972) 849-4730  (Cell) AT&T
+886 978-291-624 (Cell) TW
Tom J (Line)
Jacobstom (Skype)
Mail to: t...@yankeecreek.camp 

/The information contained in this e-mail message is intended only for 
the personal and confidential use of the recipient(s) named above.This 
message, including any attachments, may contain information that is 
confidential and proprietary information. This message may be a 
private or commercial communication and as such is PRIVILEGED and 
CONFIDENTIAL. If the reader of this message is not the intended 
recipient or an agent responsible for delivering it to the intended 
recipient, this serves as notice to you that you have received this 
document in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or 
copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received 
this communication in error, please delete the original message and 
any attachments, as well as all copies thereof, and notify us 
immediately via e-mail at t...@yankeecreek.camp 
, or by telephone at (972-849-4730). 
Thank you. /




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 boomvang issue

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I used these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=18ph4m5

After my tapped 1/4-20 bolts pulled through the tapped boom on my boat.  
I drilled out the hole, put these in, tightened them up and

re-installed the bolts.  So far so good.


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax


On 7/27/2017 10:41 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Bill,

  I would lean towards SS rivets as suggested by Dennis and others. 
You will need to get the
diameter of the hole but also the combined thickness of the fitting 
and mast. Fogh has a good
assortment of the rivets. You can get the compound riveter from 
Princess Auto.


  On the LO300 with all the reaching not having a vang was likely a 
significant problem. Did

you rig a temporary block or anything?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

yes - I was docked a couple of slips away from you at PCYC.


>


> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 

>
> I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets.  "Every high load" rivet I
> installed in a mast was stainless coated with TefGel.
>
> However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG
rivet tool
> like a Marson Big Daddy.  They run about $150.
>
> If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with
> stainless.  Is there a rental shop around where you can rent a
Big Daddy?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the
> shorter scotch bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at
> the base of the mast. The rivets appear to have sheared off.
> I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am
> curious if anyone has suggestions?
>
> Bill Nickel
>
> "adagio"
>
> 1977 C&C 30 mk 1



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Starter...

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Not sure I fully understand your predicament, but searching for 3QM30 
starter wrench brought up this:


http://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Servicegard-Starter-Wrench-JDE80.html


Could that help?


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 3/27/2017 7:10 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:


So the head is off of the 3QM30 and while everything is apart I am 
rebuilding all the peripherals...including the starter.



Access to the starter seemed good.   Until it was not. Cannot get a 
socket on there and swing room for a box wrench is limited and 
geometry awkward.



Aside from cutting a new access port through the quarter berth to get 
to the casing bolts is there some trick or specialty tool I have not 
thought of?



Thanks in advance


David F. Risch

1981 40-2

(401) 419-4650 (cell)


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List used vs new autopilot

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I'd vote new.  I'm gettting pretty close to the same situation. The 
issue with continuing on with the old stuff is integration.
When the next instrument fails, the newer ones will come with newer 
interfaces, so keeping up with technologies will
in the end make life simpler.  I also think pretty much anything will 
perform better than the old sT4000+.  Mine pretty
accurately reports when it is off course, which is nice so I can go 
correct it.  the EV100 will likely hold the course much

better as it interfaces to more inputs.

Food for thought.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 1/28/2017 7:58 AM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List wrote:
I have been contemplating on buying a new ev100 outopilot or purchase 
a used control head for my old st4000+. I would save about $1000 
dollars. so my question is is it worth the money to invest in new? 
will the ev100 technology perform better?



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

If you have access to a bandsaw/tablesaw, it's fairly easy to make your 
own wedges from a chunk of hardwood.  I don't know of anyone
who has them comercially available.  I milled my own a while back from a 
chunk of wood I grabbed off my wood lot.  The wedges are
tapered on one side.  I cut the taper on my table saw on a wide board, 
then ripped the board into the width for the wedge to make a
bunch.  2 inches seems wide for the wedge.  More wedges and narrower 
will make fitting easier.  I think I've got 8 or so around my

mast.   You must have a place like:
http://www.kjpselecthardwoods.com/
around Kingston somewhere as a good source for some 4/4 or 6/4 hardwood.

Another option is to use a product like:
https://www.spartite.com/Default.aspx?SiteID=3

I replaced my forward hatch lens a number of years ago for much of the 
same reasons you are now.  I don't remember the
exact product, but I suspect it wasn't acrylic.  Some other 
polycarbonate.  Any plastics shop should be able to recommend the

righ material for UV resistance and strength.

Hope this helps.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax


On 12/31/2016 10:43 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,
I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C&C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) 
and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
with - thanks in advance.

First - mast wedges
The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that 
were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the 
deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original 
design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 
360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - 
Spartite ?

Second - hatch lens replacement
The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can 
cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a 
bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before?

thanks
Kevin

Kevin Deluzio
1980 C&C 30
Kingston, ON,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I have the same issue with my 2Qm.  I've learned to live with it.  I 
suspect it's battery.  My boat sits on the hard
all winter (Nov - May).  I put a freshly charged battery in it, straight 
from my garage charging station to the boat and
it fires within a crank or maybe two if it's ony 5 or 6 degrees (40 F 
ish).  If it were a fuel leak, the 7 months would
definitely drained the lines.  So fuel is available and getting there.  
Fresh battery starts the 1979 old beast with
ease.  Later in the season, the battery is likely not 100% charged and 
it takes longer.  Maybe more resistance

from old oil too...although 5 months of oil use shouldn't be too bad.

Easy to test.  Charge the battery well...then hit the button...if it 
takes less time you don't have to tear down anything.

If it does not then have fun tearing the beastie down.


On 10/5/2016 10:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
I'm experiencing the same issue with my 1GM10. I'm suspecting an air 
leak in the line. My trouble shooting thus far has only been replacing 
the fuel filter. I'm anxious to hear suggestions too.


Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 5, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hello experts,

I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C&C34 with 
a 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no 
smoke. Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get 
it started. When it is turning over there does not appear to be 
anything going on, but when it starts its immediately smooth and 
normal (no coughing and spluttering).


This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system 
which is allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The 
fact that it seems to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the 
leak is before the injector pump.


I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so 
I'm wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or 
what might cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd 
like to introduce some method into my troubleshooting!


Thanks and regards

Mike Jones
c&C34 Seanachai
Oak Bay, Victoria.



On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion 
surrounding issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   
Been meaning to post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:



http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/


Dave 33-2 Windstar
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List RC issues.

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Our policy was to cancel the race if no one volunteered.  Peer pressure 
did the rest for those who hadn't volunteered.
To date, I don't think we ever had to cancel a race due to lack of Race 
Committee.  Pretty much everyone signs up
for a race at the beginning of the year and if there are spots unfilled, 
the fleet twists some arms.


I noted that you had concidered making a boat DNC if they didn't 
volunteer for any.  I'd suggest DSQ.  DNC's can be

thrown out if you have drops.  DSQ's can not.

Food for thought


On 9/28/2016 6:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I am looking for ideas on various ways to encourage club members to 
serve as Race Committee and Mark Boat personnel.
Currently, our Club Racing Chairperson cajoles, begs, etc. club 
members who race to serve periodically as the PRO, RC and MB crew. 
Since we have a one design Sunfish fleet,
they often provide this for the PHRF racers and the PHRF racers 
reciprocate for the Sunfish races.
If a PHRF racer misses a PHRF race for which he/she serves as a RC, 
SB, MB or PRO, their score that day is the same as their average race 
score for the series so they do not suffer
in scoring or qualification for the series when they serve. Of course 
this does not provide an incentive to serve.

One local club has pretty regular RC and SB crew.
Another,without that luxury, rotates it among the PHRF racers, 
awarding a 2nd place to the boat who serves and limits this service to
one race day per series. Basically they induce racers to serve with at 
least a couple of 2nd places that they might not otherwise receive.
Some ideas we are considering include getting an iron clad commitment 
to serve as PRO/RC from each racer which commits them to do it on a 
specific race day and requires them to find a replacement
crew if something comes up that requires them to bow out. If they 
cannot find a replacement or trade dates with someone, then the racing 
that day would be cancelled.
We are also considering giving a modest 'stipend' to encourage some 
club members to consider taking this on for our ~ 10 race day 2017 
PHRF season (6 race Saturdays and 2 weekend regattas).
I prefer to give something to those who serve (2nd place on their 
service day, free/reduced series or regatta entry fees, etc.) since it 
basically impossible to 'punish' a volunteer club member who doesn't 
show up

to 'do his duty'. I also believe a carrot is more effective than a stick!
Any list suggestions/examples would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/cb
cenel...@aol.com


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Perfect.

Btw, depending on where you sail, your Speed over water won't ever 
match.  By doing the math between the two you can determine
how much current you are in and with some calculations how much that is 
setting you off course.  Food for thought.



On 9/27/2016 7:46 PM, RANDY wrote:
Speed over ground - the SailTimer App uses GPS to calculate speed. 
 And it's showing about 0.75 - 1.0 knots faster than my onboard 
transducer-based speed instrument.  Since I trust GPS more, I'm now 
calibrating the onboard instrument to match the speed shown by the app.


I scrubbed my bottom a few weeks ago but couldn't see to get the keel 
(murky marina water), so I'm sure it's not perfectly clean.


Cheers,
Randy

--------
*From: *"Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List" 
*To: *"cnc-list" 
*Cc: *"Jeffrey Nelson" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, September 27, 2016 3:42:46 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

Add a dirty bottom at this time of year and they'd work for my boat 
too.  :-)
Are you using speed over ground or speed over water for your baseline 
speed?


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 9/27/2016 6:24 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:

Those are a reasonable approximation but they're from a 30E, the
European edition of the 30, which has a different design from my
MK I (e.g. reverse transom, different interior, probably different
displacement), and who knows what sails and what kind of prop etc.
 That boat is apparently fastest on a shallow broad reach,
probably under spinnaker.

Assuming I can get an accurate set of polars for my boat this
year, they'll still show lower speeds than the boat's true
potential, because I have old tired sails including an undersized
main, and I have a fixed prop.  Even so I'd like to get an
accurate set of polars as a baseline to compare against when I
have new sails and a folding prop, hopefully next year.  Then
hopefully I can sail the boat to its true speed potential.

Cheers,
Randy


*From: *"Bill Coleman" 
*To: *"RANDY" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, September 27, 2016 1:26:24 PM
*Subject: *RE: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

Can’t you just use the polars given on that site?  They have a C&C 30

*Wind velocity*



*6kts*



*8kts*



*10kts*



*12kts*



*14kts*



*16kts*



*20kts*

Beat angles



45.5°



43.7°



43.3°



43.7°



43°



41.3°



40.5°

Beat VMG



2.55



3.08



3.46



3.8



4.14



4.39



4.53

52°



3.98



4.73



5.31



5.82



6.15



6.35



6.5

60°



4.26



5.02



5.65



6.08



6.34



6.52



6.72

75°



4.51



5.3



5.94



6.29



6.49



6.67



7.02

90°



4.64



5.61



6.24



6.55



6.71



6.8



7.04

110°



4.77



5.75



6.31



6.63



6.93



7.23



7.53

120°



4.65



5.63



6.24



6.57



6.86



7.18



7.75

135°



4.27



5.19



5.97



6.39



6.67



6.96



7.56

150°



3.68



4.6



5.39



6.04



6.4



6.66



7.21

Run VMG



3.19



3.99



4.69



5.33



5.92



6.31



6.83

Gybe angles



148.1°



152.1°



153.5°



159.8°



180°



180°



180°

Right?

Regards,

Bill Coleman



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the ge

Re: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Add a dirty bottom at this time of year and they'd work for my boat 
too.  :-)

Are you using speed over ground or speed over water for your baseline speed?

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 9/27/2016 6:24 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
Those are a reasonable approximation but they're from a 30E, the 
European edition of the 30, which has a different design from my MK I 
(e.g. reverse transom, different interior, probably different 
displacement), and who knows what sails and what kind of prop etc. 
 That boat is apparently fastest on a shallow broad reach, probably 
under spinnaker.


Assuming I can get an accurate set of polars for my boat this year, 
they'll still show lower speeds than the boat's true potential, 
because I have old tired sails including an undersized main, and I 
have a fixed prop.  Even so I'd like to get an accurate set of polars 
as a baseline to compare against when I have new sails and a folding 
prop, hopefully next year.  Then hopefully I can sail the boat to its 
true speed potential.


Cheers,
Randy


*From: *"Bill Coleman" 
*To: *"RANDY" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, September 27, 2016 1:26:24 PM
*Subject: *RE: Stus-List C&C Polars Again

Can’t you just use the polars given on that site?  They have a C&C 30

*Wind velocity*



*6kts*



*8kts*



*10kts*



*12kts*



*14kts*



*16kts*



*20kts*

Beat angles



45.5°



43.7°



43.3°



43.7°



43°



41.3°



40.5°

Beat VMG



2.55



3.08



3.46



3.8



4.14



4.39



4.53

52°



3.98



4.73



5.31



5.82



6.15



6.35



6.5

60°



4.26



5.02



5.65



6.08



6.34



6.52



6.72

75°



4.51



5.3



5.94



6.29



6.49



6.67



7.02

90°



4.64



5.61



6.24



6.55



6.71



6.8



7.04

110°



4.77



5.75



6.31



6.63



6.93



7.23



7.53

120°



4.65



5.63



6.24



6.57



6.86



7.18



7.75

135°



4.27



5.19



5.97



6.39



6.67



6.96



7.56

150°



3.68



4.6



5.39



6.04



6.4



6.66



7.21

Run VMG



3.19



3.99



4.69



5.33



5.92



6.31



6.83

Gybe angles



148.1°



152.1°



153.5°



159.8°



180°



180°



180°

Right?

Regards,

Bill Coleman



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar bolt size

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

nope...but 1/2 inch and 9/16 would be somewhere in the vacinity if 
someone used an imperial bolt instead

of the metric Yanmar uses.


On 8/1/2016 8:10 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Is there a wrench size between 13 and 14 mm?

Joel



--
Joel
301 541 8551


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail Cover

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

A loop of rope on one side and a rope with a chineese button knot in it 
would work.  That way you could just butten it up.


Here's a youtube of the knot:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQH2FnHoByc


On 8/1/2016 5:58 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List wrote:
My friend has a sail cover with eyelets on each side in lieu of what I 
call twist snaps.  He presently uses carabiner clips which take extra 
time to attach.  My thought was to thread a line from eyelet to eyelet 
as this would be much faster.  Any ideas would be appreciated.


Frank
C&C 29


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Older C&C Bow Navigational lights

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

You can actually get Perko lights as a direct replacement. However, you 
are going to have to drill out the broken screws
which isn't going to be fun...as otherwise the degrees of light will not 
be correct.


I've been thinking of replacements for my C&C 30, but haven't come up 
with a good option.  I may do what we did
on another boat and that is put an LED tri-light on the top of the mast 
for sailing, and then leave the incandescents on
deck for motoring (as the masthead light has to be above the running 
lights).


I have thought about putting a couple of these on the pulpit mounting so 
I could run the wires down through where

the old lights were...but I'm not sure I could get the angle just right...

http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights-Aqua-Signal-Series-25-&-33/c23_188/p8080/AQUA-SIGNAL-SERIES-33-LED-LIGHT-PORT-BLACK/product_info.html

Interested to see what others might come up with.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 5/16/2016 8:25 PM, Andrew Deveau via CnC-List wrote:

Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C&C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C&C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List EV-100 Question

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Yes.  Saves the installer from swimming.


On 4/23/2016 8:27 AM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:
As I read the manuals, I have seen several times that the unit MUST be 
installed when the boat is on the hard or tied to a pontoon dock or 
floats.


I don't understand the point to this.

Any experiences?

John on Enterprise
C&C 33 MK II


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I'd agree go with the joker valve replacement.
It won't be that messy if you pump a gallon or so of water through. 
Anything that runs back will be mostly water plus a bit

of contaminates from the hose walls.



On 4/20/2016 9:56 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


Sam,

Perhaps you only need a new joker valve.  They’re pretty reasonable, 
compared to the price of a new head.


Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

*Hampton VA*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Sam Wheeler via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, April 20, 2016 13:50
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
*Subject:* Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

Hi all,

My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that 
is currently back-filling after I pump it dry.  It looks like a 
rebuild kit will run me $70 to $80.  On the other hand, a new West 
Marine-brand head (link 
) 
is only $200.  I'm inclined to pay that different to avoid a messy job 
and start from scratch with a clean head.


It seems well reviewed but does anyone have experience with that model 
or other reasons why I shouldn't go with it?


Thanks,

Sam



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Headsail Sheeting

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

That seems pretty close.  My 30 doesn't have track, but I've sailed on a 
few that do.  I'm not sure the 150% would be all the
way to forward end of the track.  If I remember correctly that would be 
near the cabin trunk.  I'd be about a foot aft off that.
With a 170 you may need a turning block further aft to get a fair lead 
to the winches.


170 is ideal in 0 to 10 knots or so.  I don't have one, but wish I did 
on more than a few occassions.  I'm running a 145 most

of the time now.

I've tried a 110/100ish sail, I ended up rigging a barber haul to get it 
in a little closer.  The 30s are pretty fat where you would
have the block on the rail, so pointing is pretty much awful when the 
sail is that small.  I'd think a better idea would be a block
on a line so you could create a jib boom and get it hauled in about 3 or 
4 inches from the cabin side might be a better answer.

I'd have to experiment more.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 4/16/2016 4:54 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

30-1 Listers-

If you could give me some tips on how you run your headsail sheets, 
I'd appreciate it.  My new-to-me 30-1 has what I assume are the 
standard genoa car tracks, short and located well aft, outboard of the 
cockpit coamings.  In the documents that came with the boat I found 
some notes from a previous owner saying the following:


* 170% genoa sheets run through the car at aft end of track
* 150% genoa sheets run through the car at forward end of track
* 130% genoa sheets run through block on rail forward of lifeline gate 
brace

* 110% genoa sheets run through block on rail well forward

Is that how you all run your sheets?  When if ever do you even use 
your 170% genoa?


Note I'm familiar with adjusting fore and aft car / block location to 
adjust sail shape for conditions, etc.  I'm looking for the starting 
points for running the sheets for different headsails.


Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List *****SPAM***** Re: Bluetooth Speakers on Deck

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

They also fit in the cup holders.  :-)

On 4/4/2016 10:42 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
Also give a listen to the UE speakers.   They come with a bit of shock 
chord that easily wraps around a pulpit.


John

On Apr 4, 2016, at 8:48 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Have you heard of the Amazon Tap?

It is an Alexa enabled bluetooth speaker with claims of a 9hr battery 
life and can be charged via a USB cable.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXS8E8S/?ref_=pe_1457740_187773290_ods_em_ha_fx_strt_ecg


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



On Apr 3, 2016, at 9:07 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:


From: Jim Giffing via CnC-List >

To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Jim Giffing mailto:jgiff...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Sat, Apr 2, 2016 8:18 pm
Subject: Stus-List Bluetooth Speakers on Deck



Anyone have any experience with portable bluetooth speakers on deck?
Been considering mounting one on my stern pulpit,
Want something with long battery life... full day
Will pair it with my iphone which I will likely leave below deck
And care about sound quality with rich bass, etc,


Just wondering --- been googling reviews, but nope found for boats.

___


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

We've used LED - Red/Green/White on the top of the mast all LED.  On 
Deck we have Red/Green/Stern and steaming light half way up the mast, all
incandescant (they came with the boat).  We wired it all to a 3 position 
switch - off - Sailing LED lights - Motoring deck incandescant lights.


This ensured that when the engine was running we only needed to flip one 
switch and we would never have both sets of lights operating at

the same time.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 4/5/2016 12:23 AM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List wrote:
When under power you are no longer a sailing vessel.  White Light 
showing 225 over port and starboard running lights.  Just one more tug 
boat.


On Apr 4, 2016, at 19:26, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Sent from my iPhone


I don’t recall any requirement in the COLREGS that a “Masthead” light 
actually be at the top of a mast. And since the “Masthead light” 
identifies that the boat being observed is a power driven vessel, I 
would be kind of surprised if there was such a requirement.


Sailing Vessels display only red and green bow lights and a 135 
degree white stern light (or, in the alternative a red, green and 
white tricolor light at the top of the tallest mast).


I suppose that’s why sailors like you and I think of the white light 
on the front of the mast as a Steaming Light. We only turn it on when 
we are “steaming” and our sailboat becomes a tall power boat.


The number and positions of the “masthead lights” on a power driven 
vessel are spelled out in the COLREGS and will indicate the length of 
the boat (and fore from aft). I do think they need to be the highest 
lights on display, but I’ve seen masthead lights affixed to a bracket 
on the top of the wheelhouse on a trawler, and to the strut holding 
the radar antenna on a tug, and those don’t count as a masts in my book.


Rick Brass



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bluetooth Speakers on Deck

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

If you have an Aux input you can get bluetooth receivers...saves 
connecting a cable to i-device.

We've used UE Boom's on-board as they fit in the cupholders.


On 4/2/2016 10:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
The Admiral and I were also just looking at them.  Like you, we were 
not impressed by the battery life times.


However, I can tell you the one we were leaning towards was the UE Roll.

I had a carpenter do some work on my house last year. He had a pair of 
waterproof pool speakers, Boom Swimmers, I think.  They sounded nice.  
Used his iPad.


After much deliberation and research, we decided to continue to use 
Touche's built in stereo.  No worries on battery life.  We can connect 
the Admiral's iPhone or one of our tablets to the stereo and away we 
go.  We have both cabin and cockpit speakers.  We can use a playlist, 
Pandoora or iHeart radio.


In my opinion, that's the way to go.  Install a stereo with Bluetooth 
or MP3 aux input and installed speakers.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Apr 2, 2016 at 7:17 PM, Jim Giffing via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Anyone have any experience with portable bluetooth speakers on deck?
Been considering mounting one on my stern pulpit,
Want something with long battery life... full day
Will pair it with my iphone which I will likely leave below deck
And care about sound quality with rich bass, etc,

Just wondering --- been googling reviews, but nope found for boats.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Home Depot - Slot screw driver #2 works just fine, leatherman also works 
fine. Otherwise go to a local automotive store and get a replacement 
ingnition set to wire in.
Yanmar blanks are $60ish and you can buy 10 new ignition switches for 
the same price.


My yanmar switch went a while ago and just replaced it with a keyed 
on/off for a lawn tractor.  As I recall, I was able to get one the same 
size and shape
for $5.95.  Yes it isn't marine grade...but I can get 10 of them before 
I get close to a key or switch replacement from Yanmar.


Food for thought.


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax


On 3/24/2016 6:08 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:
I find myself in need of a replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I 
know (or at least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart 
keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C Smile

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

All puns intended?
*The smile never came back.
*On you or the boat or both?

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 3/22/2016 2:54 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List wrote:

Jason:

In 2004 I noticed the smile on my boat, when I hauled out.  I could 
also move the keel, so I knew I had a problem that wouldn't go away.  
I had the yard drop the keel, and when they flushed out the keel bolt 
holes, a smelly substance came out (like someone died in there).  The 
forward keel bolt hole had gotten enlarged due to the keel moving 
around.  They ground the stub and the top of the keel, epoxied the 
keel onto the stub, and covered the smile with fiberglass tape and 
epoxy.  They also had to fill a void around the forward keel bolt hole 
with about a gallon of epoxy.  I also had the yard make large, square 
keel bolt washers, shaped so that the nuts would sit flush when 
tightened.  Cost was about $3500. *The smile never came back.*


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty (hull #136)
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

The ring hitch might be extremely difficult to remove at year end...but 
a bowline in a bight might be a better choice if you are going to take the

sheets off at end of season.  Could also use a soft shackle.

If you really tighten up your bowlines I can't see why they would bind 
on the baby stay anymore than any other knot.


Food for thought.


On 1/6/2016 9:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List wrote:

ring hitch



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Wow all my years in Ottawa I don't think I used 5 gal.  I did run some 
through probably about a gallon.  Then I would go and
drain the engine through the frost plugs as per Yanmar recommendation.  
I figured anything left in the engine would have enough
antifreeze to keep it soft enough.   11 years with my C&C 30 and 5 years 
with my bayfield...no issues...and Ottawa can be cold

to -40 or so...

Cheers,
  Jeff

On 10/22/2015 11:48 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


Rob,

You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF 
would not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual 
concentration of AF that is _/leaving/_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal 
(20 l - 25 l). The extra $3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting 
(bursting) the heat exchanger or the muffler.


Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection .


Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*robert via CnC-List

*Sent:* October-22-15 21:19
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert
*Subject:* Stus-List Hydrolocked!

Chuck / Dave:

Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of 
antifreeze would get to the engine this way.


Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly 
the same.  While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit 
with a fresh water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if 
it happensI run a hose from the bucket to the raw water pump 
(remove the raw water hose to the pump, of course)..start the 
engine to flush the salt water and warm up the engineshut the 
engine down..empty the bucket of fresh water.put a gallon of 
concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucketrestart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the 
exhaust thruhullsystem full of antifreeze..shut down the 
engine.my Yanmar 2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 
gallons .always a little left which I put in the head.


Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock?   As mentioned by a 
lister, first check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is 
fine and all intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock  but 
I am no marine engine mechanic.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Dave,

I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by
the way you describe.  The point where the raw water shoots into
the exhaust should be angled to enter the exhaust and not the
engine.  Before it backs up into the engine, your hose from
cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat exchanger, exhaust
hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back into the
engine.  That's a lot of water to move.  Also, remember if the
engine was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4
cylinders, so the intrusion is limited.   Starting the thing might
blow it all out?

If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my
raw water pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I
start the engine turning.  I suspect your pump impeller may be
worn and need replacement?

I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other
reason probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned
off.  Did you hear the solenoid click?  Did the starter whine or
hum at all?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



*From: *"David Pulaski via CnC-List" 

*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"David Pulaski" 

*Sent: *Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List  Hydrolocked!

Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until
Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.

So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the
water.  First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe
30-45 minutes, while I got everything ready.  After I shut it down
and closed the raw water intake seacock, here was my winterizing
plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with
pink antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the opening
port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment,
connected to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed
simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the
bucket, adding more if necessary.

My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze. 
I was just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose

from the end up in the cockpit; 

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

And here I thought you were watching Bonanza down there.

On 10/2/2015 8:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
It doesn't have a cell receiver, and it works very well offshore. 
During a recent offshore race I was watching the course while I was 
supposed to be sleeping.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-02 7:04 PM, Jerome Tauber wrote:
It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it 
work below deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to 
belabor the point.  Jerry


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in 
GPS works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
Joe - that is a common misunderstanding. While the Iphone does not 
need cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower 
triangulation for position and is not very accurate or fast without 
it.   Moreover, if you are below deck you will not get an adequate 
GPS signal.  This is from the internet.



  MotionX-GPS


Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?

The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset 
which uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal 
acquisition. Cellular coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, 
however the signal acquisition will be much quicker if you have 
data coverage.
Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire 
a signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which 
satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With 
data services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take 
up to 5 minutes.



  How the iPhone knows where you are

By Glenn Fleishman 
, Macworld
iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that 
Apple's Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS 
 
might almost seem baffling:


Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data
can take up to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to
just a few seconds by using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data
to quickly find GPS satellites.

Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out 
where I am?
Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a 
lengthy process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first 
appeared. In simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely 
accurate about how this all works and what it's doing. So let me 
explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone towers fit into the equation.



  12.5 minutes to locate

Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a 
lock; later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If 
you turned a GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than 
a few hundred miles, a cold start might be required again.
GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates 
for where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast 
precise time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their 
current location. They also broadcast the location of all other 
satellites in the sky, called the almanac.
Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its 
current location and some less precise location information for 
other GPS satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 
minutes) to obtain the full list of satellite locations. This 
information has to be decoded for a receiver to then properly 
interpret signals from the satellites that are within range.
If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which 
each sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS 
receiver—can calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, 
and elevation of your current location along with the exact current 
time. With three satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can 
still track movement fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers 
can lock in simultaneously on multiple satellites, and track more 
than four. Other techniques can improve accuracy, too.
But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that 
location faster!



  Giving GPS an assist

So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten 
the wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live 
downloads of position data from satellites, future locations can be 
estimated accurately enough to figure out rough satellite 
positions, and get a fix at which point even more up-to-date 
information is retrieved. These estimates can be downloaded via a 
network connection in seconds or even calculated right on a device.
The current time can also be used as a clue. With a precise current 
time, fragmentary satellite dat

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

We use iPad (albeit with external gps) on Jahmon (j29) below decks all 
the time.  I never understood why people would
buy an iPad without the gps option.  Seems like a lot of money to spend 
if you decide to change you mind later and having

the GPS is such an integral part of our lives these days.

AND...I'm not even an Apple fan.

$100 for an andriod pad eh...I must look into that.  I've been thinking 
of getting something for ebooks.


On 10/2/2015 5:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS 
works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I eliminated 
my topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the topping 
lift used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping the
mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the boat 
bounces a bit.


If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it off 
quite a bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the

sail will allow...

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax



-Original Message- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List info on C&C 37 for sale in NS, cnd

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Looks like it's from Armdale Yacht Club.  I'll poke around there 
tomorrow to see what I can find out.


On 9/25/2015 6:01 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

A friend of mine is looking for info on a C&C 37 for sale in Nova 
Scotia by Ocean yacht sales.


Does anyone know something about this particular boat, good or bad ? 
the seller looks motivated to sell.


Thanks.

Bruno Lachance
C&C 33 mkII, Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc

see: 
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=2869713&ybw=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=1549&url=&hosturl=oceanyachtsales&&ywo=oceanyachtsales&;



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

You can have your disagreement.  It's too late for me I have my wire 
rope halyards.
They were half the price of what I was quoted in two separate shops for 
all rope.  I agree, I probably wouldn't have had to replace the
sheeves at the mast head.  However, if I were going to do it, I think I 
would because the cost of a new improved sheeve would
be significantly less than the price of the halyards.  If there were any 
nicks or abraiding points in the old sheeve from the wire halyard
going over it the investment would be well paid for in the price of a 
new halyard.


Perhaps U.S. vs Canada availabiliity makes up the difference.  I went 
local and I'm happy with the results.


Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30

On 9/21/2015 9:30 PM, Michael Clow via CnC-List wrote:


I use Sta-Set X 3/8” on my main halyard of my C&C 32 that I actively 
club race.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*jtsails via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, September 21, 2015 7:52 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* jtsails
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

Yeah, I know, but that’s what I used on my 38 so I knew the price

James

*From:*Joel Aronson via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

*Sent:*Monday, September 21, 2015 7:18 PM

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

*Cc:*Joel Aronson <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

7/16 would be overkill for a 30.  That's what I have on my 35 with the 
original sheaves.


Joel

On Monday, September 21, 2015, jtsails via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Jeffrey,

Not sure I agree with your conclusions.  7x19 SS wire isn’t what I 
would call cheap, plus you would pay for a rigger to do a wire to rope 
splice plus an eye splice. A hybrid high tech line like New Englands 
“VPC” is much less expensive ($1.79/ft for 7/16” at defender) and it 
only would need an eye splice at one end. As for replacing the 
sheeves, may of us on the list have had no problems running all-rope 
halyards over the original sheeves.


James

delaney

C&C 38 Mk11

Oriental, NC

*From:*Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 



*Sent:*Monday, September 21, 2015 5:41 PM

*To:*javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');

*Cc:*Jeffrey Nelson 



*Subject:*Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

Last year, I was thinking of replacing my halyard with all rope 
halyard.  However, after a fairly lengthy discussion with sailmaker 
and rigger,
I decided to replace with wire rope.  I wasn't that keen in replacing 
the sheeve at the masthead, and my rigger successfully argued that
the wire rope halyard had served it's purpose well for the last 30 
years...(not sure if was original) so why not replace it with the same.
That statement probably cost him a fair bit of profit as all rope 
halyard would have been more expensive, but I respect him for giving

an honest answer.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30

On 9/19/2015 4:08 PM, Scott via CnC-List wrote:

This fall one of my projects will be to replace worn out sheaves
at the base of the mast ,

Pull the upper pulley at the masthead and machine in a bronze
bushing. It still has wire to rope halyard and am either going to
replace with a new one or change out to all rope. My question is
what size has anyone used on a c&c 30 mki (1972). I know all rope
is the go to choice nowadays but I like the feel of the larger
diameter rope end of the wire to rope. Thanks in advance for any
insight or experience , Scott

Sent from my iPad

___

Email address:

javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');

To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
the bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax



___

Email address:
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



--
Joel
301 541 8551



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 

Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Last year, I was thinking of replacing my halyard with all rope 
halyard.  However, after a fairly lengthy discussion with sailmaker and 
rigger,
I decided to replace with wire rope.  I wasn't that keen in replacing 
the sheeve at the masthead, and my rigger successfully argued that
the wire rope halyard had served it's purpose well for the last 30 
years...(not sure if was original) so why not replace it with the same.
That statement probably cost him a fair bit of profit as all rope 
halyard would have been more expensive, but I respect him for giving

an honest answer.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30

On 9/19/2015 4:08 PM, Scott via CnC-List wrote:

This fall one of my projects will be to replace worn out sheaves at the base of 
the mast ,
Pull the upper pulley at the masthead and machine in a bronze bushing. It still has 
wire to rope halyard and am either going to replace with a new one or change out to 
all rope. My question is what size has anyone used on a c&c 30 mki (1972). I 
know all rope is the go to choice nowadays but I like the feel of the larger 
diameter rope end of the wire to rope. Thanks in advance for any insight or 
experience , Scott


Sent from my iPad
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Off Topic- Automated Race Signals

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Try this:
http://www.lunenburghooter.ca/


On 8/9/2015 11:37 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List wrote:


I know this is sailing related but it is not C&C related. We have a 
fair number of avid racers on the list and I was hoping for some 
useful leads.


A short background.

I started sailing essentially 3 years ago when we bought our C&C 26. 
Although I have only raced in the “fun races” I have been volunteering 
on the race committee since joining the club. One problem we have 
always had is lack of other volunteers to help run good races, often 
there would be only 2 of us. One person usually ran the start 
countdowns and recorded times and I assisted on line calls and did all 
the mark setting and adjusting for changes in wind direction. Being on 
a lake wind shifts are a regular part of the day and while not an 
excessive amount there is almost always adjusting of the marks. 2 
people can manage the duties as long as they know what they are doing, 
committee boat and mark boat. The other individual is retiring from 
the committee boat duties.


I am only talking keelboat PHRF racing, not dingy racing. Series 
racing we have 6-8 boats usually and fun races we have 20ish.


I have been asked to be fleet captain next year. Having reservations 
regarding the ability to get volunteers as I have 3 seasons of 
experience in this regard I am trying to think of ways to “automate” 
the start sequence so that we can assign other club members to 
committee boat duty throughout the season. My thought process being if 
they are intimidated by racing rules, having a simple system pushing a 
button and watching the line is easier to train and get people 
acclimated. It also provides consistency to the boats racing that no 
one “forgets” the horn because they were talking to someone else aboard.


I realize this may not be official according to the rules but we are 
not running the Americas Cup. Having spent some time researching via 
google there are some commercial alternatives available, only a few I 
found in North America. I am looking for anyone’s experience with 
these devices and perhaps problems or ones to avoid. My short list of 
wants:


1.Ability to do a 5,4,1,0 start.

2.Easy to use / reset. Push button with its own clock

3.Connected to lights instead of using flags so all human intervention 
is avoided beyond the line observations and recording of time. I think 
racers on our lake would accept this as long as they are visible.


4.Portable, able to be taken ashore and used on different boats.

5.12V power

6.Reasonable cost

The lights seem to be a non-standard option on what I found, at least 
on this continent, or only on homemade systems.


Any leads or links appreciated.

Regards

David Donnelly

C&C 26 Mistress



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Load Calculators

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I think someone was looking for this earlier:
http://www.harken.com/Calculators/

--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List List down?

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Very light traffic...

Must be boat weekend.  Pouring down rain here in Halifax...


On 19/07/2015 2:37 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:

Nothing since Friday...is the list down or is everyone out sailing?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Do you mean this site:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm

I did essentially the same thing on my C&C 30 a few years ago. The 
plywood had rotted out and my mast was sinking into
the bilge.  I got some 3/4 inch fiberglass panels from a guy who parts 
for aircraft.  I cut out and laminated the the panels togehter
to make them 1.5 inches thick.  Put them in, dropped the big wooden 
block on top and then the mast shoe...all good now.


On 20/05/2015 5:20 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote:
I recall reading somewhere  who knows where ... that C&C changed 
at some point from plywood to fiberglass for the mast step stringers 
(or perhaps it was just encapsulating them entirely in glass.  Can 
anyone confirm that and if so when it occurred?
On the 30’s we looked at (when we ultimately got the 27) you could 
reach into the bilge and under the arch of the stringer ... so even 
without pulling the mast, probing with an awl would give you a good 
idea how bad things are.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
*From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2015 12:58 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Gary Nylander 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are 
built the same. Mine is #593.
There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum 
box is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is 
attached with six long screws. The oak comes off easily.
Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or 
may not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and 
replacement to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and 
framed each stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of 
holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No 
movement in about five years.
The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers 
(which are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, 
and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. 
There's glass just on the sides.
Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and 
another for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole 
cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just 
fill the lowest part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to 
get all the water out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the 
sump - under the mast. Inaccessible.
Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, 
and foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with 
one which is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the 
bilge is totally dry.
I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it 
will be pretty obvious what is there.

Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
Gary Nylander
Maryland
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net 



--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Read an article recently on impellers looking perfectly fine, but the 
"fins" had become detached from the hub.  The drive pin did not go all
the way through the hub to the rubber fins so it allowed the hub to slip 
inside the fins.  So impeller may look absolutely fine,

but not fully functioning...food for thought when you check the impeller.

On 04/05/2015 10:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Impeller.

Joel

On Monday, May 4, 2015, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind
was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a
Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine
at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm
went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800
or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our destination, I
cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On
the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to
do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less
steam/smoke that on the way out.

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose
so I tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a
pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check
the intake then.

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should
check?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




--
Joel
301 541 8551


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

The winch is likely in use trimming spinnaker or something else when you 
most want to adjsut the outhaul and it is so
sweet when main trimmer asks for more outhaul that you can just reach 
over and give it a little pull to make the adjustment.



On 03/05/2015 6:29 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:

Yes, a bit of an oxymoron.

So I was happily replacing 15 year old running rigging on my 121 today when I 
discovered the boat came with a 4:1 purchase tucked inside the boom for the 
outhaul.  Who’d a thunk. Two questions for this knowledgeable group.

Why in the world would I not rip this out a simply run a line from boom end to 
cabin top winch?  As is, the outhaul runs from boom end, through the purchase 
system, through a sheave, through a turning block at the mast base, through a 
deck organizer and finally to a winch on the cabin top.  They weren’t even 
particularly good blocks inside the mast.  I would think any mechanical 
advantage would be lost to friction  Perhaps it serves a purpose in that the 
line won’t jump when taken off the winch.

There has to be a block tucked well into the boom attached at some point with, 
I would guess,  a wire lead.  How do you get to it?

All help appreciated

John


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks for the tips.  Anytime your around, I'm up for a beverage. :-)

It's gotta get a bunch warmer before I tackle windows though...

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 24/04/2015 12:41 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Jeff:

Quote from the SAIL magazine article referenced in the earlier post:
"*Sealant/Adhesive Choices*

Two products you should never use to bed plastic portlights are 
polysulfide (Life-Calk, etc.), which attacks the plastic, and 
polyurethane (3M 5200, etc.), which is attacked by the plastic. One 
polyurethane, Sika 295 UV, can be used if you also apply a special 
primer, but this is more complicated and more expensive."


I don't think it is more complicatedmaybe more expensive because 
the Sika Primer is expensive.bizarre reallythe Sika Primer 
will cost more than the 295 you will need and you only need very 
little. Sika used to sell small bottles of the primer (35 ml) which 
you would never use all of it on a window job but now they only sell 
in much larger containersPITA.ask around, someone always has 
some left over they are willing to give to you.


I might have some but it is old..that's another thing with these 
products..check the expiry date(s).


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2015-04-22 11:05 AM, PME via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

The procedure outlined by Don Casey in a Sail magazine is excellent.

To add to Casey’s article, I traced the old port and cut the material 
slightly larger with a sabersaw.   I then sanded
the edges down to final size with an orbital sander.  This worked 
easily and produced nice results.


 I also found great prices for acrylic/lexan at eStreet Plastic. I 
used 3M VHB tape and Dow 795 both which I purchased
from McMaster-Carr, and I sprayed the under-side, unmasked area with 
Krylon Fusion.


Here is a link to the article. 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights




On 2015-04-20 7:24 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Given the amount of water dripping onto my galley table, re-caulking
isn't going to do it for long.

Take your windows out, take them to any place that deals with acrylic
and have them duplicate them...if you break your windows make a template
out of 1/4 plywood to take in.

Let me know if you come up with a good glue solution...I'm looking to
do mine again, as I apparently didn't use enough glue or clamping and
my windows have sprung out a bit...enabling water to get in...

Cheers,
  Jeff
   C&C30 Mk 1
   Muir Caileag

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Let's see:
Helm
Mainsail trimmer
Genoa trimmers (grinder & Trim)  Generally switch to Spin Trim and 2 
more join for guy trim.

Pit (managing rope clutches halyards outhaul adjustments etc)
Mast person - pole height adjust and genoa skirting on tacks
Bow man - all things forward of the mast on Spinnaker jibes, sail 
changes, pole work etc.

Sewer - repack genoa/spinnaker
Navigator/Tactician (usually helm does double dutybut really handy 
if you have enough boat for a dedicated one).


Anyone not actively engaged in triming sails is on the rail or placed 
otherwise to balance the boat appropriatelyaka movable balast.
Naturally, on smaller boats (like my C&C 30 - 5 -6 people is plenty so 
some roles get filled by the same person.
On larger or more complicated boats you may need all these people and 
perhaps a few more if you have runners.


After the race:
Genoa trimmers & Navigator repack sails
Pit, Mast person clean up sheets and Guys
Sewer makes drinks
Bow person selects music
Mainsail serves drinks
Helm enjoys a great day on the water with friends.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 22/04/2015 7:31 PM, David Lenehan via CnC-List wrote:

Allen,

Chuck has probably about summed it up.  If you are running kites you 
might need one more person on deck but be careful to avoid 
overcrowding.  Anyone surplus to current sailhandling becomes human 
ballast and has the joy of sitting on the windward gunwhale.  Lucky 
people.


Also, I agree with Chuck about this being a noble cause.  Anything you 
can do to get people out sailing is a good thing.


Wish you the best,
David

On 23 April 2015 at 07:49, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote:


A very noble cause.  I remember those crew descriptions.

You won't need many descriptions if the boats have roller furled
jibs.
Helm, Mainsheet Trimmer, Genoa Trimmer each side? Maybe a Floater
who skirts the jib, and works the halyards, Cunningham, Vang,
Outhaul, Preventer?

The most intimidating thing to me was not running into other boats
during the start, the start sequence; timing the start, the
various flags, gun, etc.   It would be good to practice that in
class showing the Preparatory signal, Postponement, Start flags.

I can recommend a very good book on racing:
*Getting Started in Sailboat Racing* by Adam Cort, 2005;  helps
explains getting around the course, and simple start strategies, etc.

For trimming sails, I buy my guys *Mainsail Trimming* and *Jib
Trimming* both by Felix Marks, 2007 very common sense and easy to
read.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Allen Miles via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent: *Wednesday, April 22, 2015 9:08:35 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List Crew duties during a race

I need some help here.  Our local sailing club on Albemarle Sound
supports a low key racing program (no spin, but olympic triangle
and hot dog course).   They are trying to increase the number of
boats racing and that requires additional crew. Remembering some
great threads here on crew duties a year or two ago I volunteered
to conduct some classroom  and on board sessions to bring new crew
up to speed.

Unfortunately, I now can't find those threads. Can you direct me
to where they're archived?

Allen Miles

S/V Septima  C&C 30-2

Hampton, VA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I replaced mine about 7 or 8 years ago.  I used some 
special...expensive...glue with a special gun to administer it. Held for 
quite a while
but the back end where the window flexes(?), curves maybe better, most 
has popped out.  So, I guess it's time to do it all again. I'll look for 
your post in the archive
to see if there is anything special with the sika product.  I think I 
need a little more clamp pressure on the back... I don't have access to the

loverly fancy gun for the fancy glue...so was looking for another product.

Gonna be a bit before I get to that project.  The sole is finally going 
back into place.  Windows next then teak and holy sole to make it

all look pretty again.


On 21/04/2015 10:25 PM, robert wrote:

Jeff:
Due to leaks in the windows, and no matter what I tried, the leaks 
didn't stop until we replaced the windows.  I took the old windows to 
the retailer who produced new acrylic windows and we installed with 
Sika 295UV.  I have posted the step by step process here on the list 
several times so I won't subject the listers with it another time.
If you decide to go that route, contact me off list and I will take 
you through the process we followed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-04-20 7:24 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Given the amount of water dripping onto my galley table, re-caulking 
isn't going to do it for long.


Take your windows out, take them to any place that deals with acrylic 
and have them duplicate them...if you break your windows make a template

out of 1/4 plywood to take in.

Let me know if you come up with a good glue solution...I'm looking to 
do mine again, as I apparently didn't use enough glue or clamping and

my windows have sprung out a bit...enabling water to get in...

Cheers,
   Jeff
C&C30 Mk 1
Muir Caileag

On 20/04/2015 1:51 PM, Ron Ander via CnC-List wrote:


I need to repair some leaking from the windows. It was suggested to 
me that removing the existing windows, cleaning up the surfaces, and 
reinstalling them can be a problem because the windows might break.


Does re-caulking alone solve a leaking problem?

If I need new windows where can I purchase them in the Toronto area?

Ron Ander

Alchemist

C&C 29 Mk 2, 1986



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Given the amount of water dripping onto my galley table, re-caulking 
isn't going to do it for long.


Take your windows out, take them to any place that deals with acrylic 
and have them duplicate them...if you break your windows make a template

out of 1/4 plywood to take in.

Let me know if you come up with a good glue solution...I'm looking to do 
mine again, as I apparently didn't use enough glue or clamping and

my windows have sprung out a bit...enabling water to get in...

Cheers,
   Jeff
C&C30 Mk 1
Muir Caileag

On 20/04/2015 1:51 PM, Ron Ander via CnC-List wrote:


I need to repair some leaking from the windows. It was suggested to me 
that removing the existing windows, cleaning up the surfaces, and 
reinstalling them can be a problem because the windows might break.


Does re-caulking alone solve a leaking problem?

If I need new windows where can I purchase them in the Toronto area?

Ron Ander

Alchemist

C&C 29 Mk 2, 1986



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 27 Ontario Championships

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Awesome news Marek!  That'll make NOD pretty intense.

Cheers,
   Jeff

On 14/04/2015 12:43 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

As a FYI:
Our Club is hosting the Nepean One Design (NOD) that will include C&C 
27 Ontario Championships.

If anyone is interested, here is a link: http://nod.nsc.ca/


  NOD 2015 is Host for Fireball, J24 and C&C27 Ontario Championships

/Submitted byeramsdenon Mon, 04/13/2015 - 14:23/

*Notice: *
Notice

With the recent addition of the Fireball Ontario Championship, the 
2015 NOD is shaping up to be a great event!


Confirmed designations for the 2015 NOD are as follows:

  * Laser 28: Canadian Championship
  * J24: Ontario Championship
  * C&C27: Ontario Championship
  * Fireball: Ontario Championship

We're looking forward to a great regatta with these designations in place!



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Barient 18- Source for Winch Bearings?

[Jeffrey Nelson]

These guys would probably have it:
http://www.gbs.ca/en/mainen.html
or USA
http://www.generalbearing.com/

Give them size...length, inside/outside diameter and they can tell you if they 
have it

On 03/13/14, "Fair, Mike"   wrote:
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> Mass Marine Parts -
> 6 Read Ave, Quincy, MA, 02170, Quincy, MA. Tel: 617-719-
>  8232.
>  
>  
>  
> They have used winches and may have what you need. 
>  
>  
>  
> Mike
>  
> Finnyacht 351
> 
>  
> Cio Cio San
>  
> Padanaram, Buzzards Bay
>  
>  
>   
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
> 
> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 10:32 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 18- Source for Winch Bearings?
>  
>  
>  
>   
> Or you can go this route:
>   
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boaters-Resale-Shop-of-Tx-12093022-01-BARIENT-16-TWO-SPEED-BLACK-ALUMINUM-WINCH-/271083076338?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f1dcf7af2&vxp=mtr
>  
>   
>  
>  
>   
> enough spares for TWO winches ;)
>  
>   
> What's your time worth? There are a few ads up with varying prices.
>  
>   
>  
>  
>   
> Steve
>  
>   
> Suhana, C&C 32
>  
>   
> Toronto
>  
>  
>   
>  
>   
> On Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 8:45 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>  
>  
> I've had good experience with ARCO, however if you choose not to deal with 
> ARCO, you can look local. Have you tried a local bearing supplier? In my area 
> we have a lot of industry, hence a couple of large bearing suppliers. 
> 
> 
> 
> A dock neighbor needed a bearing for an old no name roller furler. Took it to 
> a local bearing supplier and gave it to the guy behind the counter. 5 minutes 
> later the counter guy put an exact replacement in his hand.
>  
>  
> You're in a large metro area with a seaport. Seems there ought to be an 
> option there for you.
>  
>   
> This supplier is in your area: 
> http://www.mcguirebearing.com/(http://www.mcguirebearing.com/) If they don't 
> require a huge minimum purchase, they might be an answer for you.
>  
>   
>  
>  
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
>  
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>  
>  
> Mandeville, LA
>  
>   
>  
>
> On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 7:13 PM, Kevin Driscoll  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> > 
> > Would anyone be able to help me out with a source for replacement bearings? 
> > As you can see from the photo, many of mine are cracked. Does Lewmar make 
> > replacements?
> >   
> >  
> >  
> >   
> > Photos Here: 
> > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwhcX19YaPJ8TmxtNFVIZGVRTDQ&usp=sharing
> >  
> >   
> >  
> >  
> >   
> > Thanks,
> >  
> >   
> > Kevin
> >  
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
> > C&C30mkII
> >  
> >   
> > 'Osprey'
> >  
> >   
> > Portland, Or
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >   
> > ___
> > 
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > 
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > 
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >  
> >  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boom goose neck

[Jeffrey Nelson]

I believe I got mine from:
http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/cc-mast-parts/


On 10/31/13, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  www.rigrite.com
> 
> 
> Sam Salter 
> C&C 26 Liquorice 
> Ghost Lake Alberta 
>  
>  
>  
>   From: Ryan Raber
> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 6:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List boom goose neck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking for a new goose neck for a 90' 34/36r and ideas where to find one? 
> thank you!
> 
> Ryan Raber
> SCAPA 
> 1990 34/36r
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Air vents C&C 30

[Jeffrey Nelson]

I believe they are all the same size...3 Inch
 Mine has 1 Low Profile on the anchor locker hatch
 2 High Profile Dorades amidships
 2 Low Profile Stern 

On 06/03/13, Curtis   wrote:
> Does anybody know the opening of the cowl vents on the C&C 30MK1
>  they come in all sizes and I want to order 2 online
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Jeffrey Nelson]

It is, but I think people are discussing the unusual case where the diesel is 
consuming it's own 
oil or the fuel supply can not be shut off for some other reason.


On 05/24/13, dwight veinot   wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> I thought the usual way to stop the
> engine was to shut off the fuel supply, not the air.
>  
>  
>   
> Dwight Veinot
>  
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>  
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
> Behalf Of Rick Brass
> 
> Sent: May 24, 2013 9:08 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a
> diesel
>  
>  
>  
>  
> I
> suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue torn
> off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT of 
> vacuum.
>  
>  
>  
> Another
> ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into the air
> intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder head to 
> get
> the fabric parts out of the intake valves.
>  
>  
>  
> Assuming
> the engine won’t shut off because the rings are badly worn and it is
> running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best
> alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from the
> galley to put over the air intake horn. I’m not sure what I would do with
> my Universal, which has a circular “can” full of “Brillo
> pad”-like metal screen for an intake filter.
>  
>  
>  
> If
> the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the fuel
> injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the shut off
> valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could take a 
> wrench
> and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines to the fuel
> injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working and the engine
> stops. I’d be reluctant to try that with engine running, belts whirling,
> pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating – but sometimes you do what
> you need to.
>  
>  
>  
> Rick
> Brass
>  
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>   
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
> Behalf Of Josh Muckley
> 
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34
> PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a
> diesel
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Are we assuming a run away diesel? Why not just
> put your hand over the intake pipe? I assume that is where you are
> spraying "stuff".
>  Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk
>   
>  
>  
>
>  No virus found in this message.
> 
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com(http://www.avg.com)
> 
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Halifax

[Jeffrey Nelson]

I'm in Halifax, Armdale if you want a tour of the harbour.

On 05/22/13, Stevan Plavsa   wrote:
> That's very generous and also awesome .. and another reason to visit!I may 
> take you up on it one day, just so long as there's room for my girlfriend :)
> 
> 
>  Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 2GM 15 dies when I put it in Fwd

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Interesting problem. Mine doesn't do that, so there must be a cause. Do you 
have a folding prop or fixed?

Something is causing a lot of extra load.
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30

On 05/22/13, Curtis   wrote:
> I need help!!! I crank up the 2GM15 let her come to operating temp. I idel up 
> to around 900 and slip her into gear and it stalls out unless I goose the 
> fuel. This is a problem. I don't have this problem in REV. But I cant operate 
> a 8 thousand pound boat in swift currents, In close quarters. Is there 
> something that can be don to fix this problem? Is this a problem with the 
> C&C30 MK1 of centered shaft and engine alignment? 
>  The prop is clean.
> The Transmission turns by hand.
> There is oil in the transmission. 
> 
> 
> Help...
> 
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
> the realist adjusts the sails.” 
>  
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Mine's like that as well. It took a little getting used to. Figured out a baby 
finger from bottom is 
idle, so it hasn't been annoying enough to change.

On 05/22/13, Knowles Rich   wrote:
> Don't you find that annoying when docking and changing direction? 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-05-22, at 17:05, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:
> 
> > My Yanmar has the throttle set so low that when you throttle down to 
> > nothing, it stops.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Sailing in and around Halifax is awesome. You can have the world as your 
destination if you have time.
There are many little islands and coves to anchor in and there are 5 clubs in 
Halifax to choose your racing
from. There is a Metro circuit if you want to race most weekends. Cruising down 
to Chester is about a 
day's sail. Tidal range in and around Halifax is about 6 feet. Lots to do and 
see. There is a cruising 
guide available at "the Binnacle" ca.binnacle.com to get an idea of cruising 
around here.

I moved back from Ottawa, and enjoying life here on the "Right" coast and am 
really enjoying the sailing
here in Halifax area. Of course, I've always been used to tides as I grew up 
here and have a cottage on
the Bay of Fundy where I have 43 feet of tide at 12 knots or so...

--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
 Armdale Yacht Club

On 05/22/13, Stevan Plavsa   wrote:
> Hey Bob, question for you from a Torontonian that's getting tired of this 
> city .. what's the sailing like out in Halifax? I'm sure it's a lot more 
> interesting than Lake Ontario but coming from a lake I've never dealt with 
> tides and currents. Is the sailing very challenging out there? Do you haul 
> your boat over winter? 
> 
> I work at OCAD University and I check the job postings at NSCAD pretty often. 
> Nothing yet but I want to stay in higher ed, particularly art & design and 
> Halifax is very appealing. In fact, the east coast in general is very 
> appealing!
> 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Stevan Plavsa  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> > Thanks Bob. That certainly explains the fitting/tube thingy on the floor of 
> > the vee birth.  
> > 
> > Steve
> > Suhana, C&C 32
> > Toronto
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Robert Abbott  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > >  Steve:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Mine is hull #277the baby stay is on a tunrbuckle connected to the 
> > > deck.there is a 'SS rod' that runs from the deck to the floor 
> > > connection in the vee birth that supports the upwards pull of the baby 
> > > stay.
> > >  
> > > 
> > > A few of the 32 owners here have simply taken their baby stay off the 
> > > boat(s). Since Rob Ball designed it there, I have left mine on. It does 
> > > make tacking a little more cumbersome.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Bob Abbott
> > > 
> > > AZURA
> > > 
> > > C&C 32 - 84
> > > 
> > > Halifax, NS
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On 2013/05/15 11:32 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > >  Thanks all. I figured I'de be ok but your feedback leaves me with some 
> > > > peace of mind and that'll make the job, any job, easier.
> > > > 
> > > > Bob, no baby stay on mine . weird eh? I know the 32 had one, mine 
> > > > doesn't.
> > > > 
> > > > However mine does have a weird metal tube thingy on the floor of the 
> > > > vee birth .. right by the door. The surveyor guessed that it might have 
> > > > had something to do with a baby stay though there is no evidence on 
> > > > deck of there ever being one. Is your baby stay just connected to a 
> > > > fitting on deck? I'm hull number 59 so I figure by then they would have 
> > > > settled on how they were building these but i guess not.
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Steve
> > > > 
> > > > Suhana, C&C 32
> > > > 
> > > > Toronto
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&c 30 Mk I for sale

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Is that Jette?

On 05/21/13, Knowles Rich   wrote:
> A friend of mine has a CC 30 Mk I for sale here in Halifax. I know little 
> about it other than I am told its in good shape. If anyone is interested, 
> please email me off list and i'll pass on his info to you. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 30 for $12k?

[Jeffrey Nelson]

If I remember correctly the Mirage 30 has a cast aluminum stem fitting for the 
forestay attachment.
Over time these would tend to fail due to crevice cracks. Welded Stainless 
replacements are available,
so not a big deal..just something to maybe take a close look for.

--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30


On 05/06/13, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"   wrote:
> 
>   
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  I'm still looking for a boat right in that size range. Price is good and 
> looks ok in the pictures but hard to say what you can't see. Not much detail 
> in the description - and a little concerning that the owner does not know 
> it's a Mirage 30!
>  If it was closer I'd go take a look first hand
>  
>  Mark
>  
> - Dr. Mark Bodnar
> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
> Bedford Chiropractic
> www.bedfordchiro.ca(http://www.bedfordchiro.ca)
> - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the 
> interval. - George Santayana
>  On 06/05/2013 1:16 AM, Knowles Rich wrote:
>  
>  
> >   Mirage. 
> >  
> >  Rich Knowles
> >  Indigo. LF38
> >  Halifax
> >  
> >  
> >  On 2013-05-06, at 0:54, Jim Watts  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> >   That's not a C&C. Maybe a CS or a Mirage...?
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  On 5 May 2013 20:11, Mark G  wrote:
> >  
> > >  
> > >  Boston Craigslist. Boat is in southern New Hampshire.
> > >  
> > >  http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/boa/3786645296.html
> > >  
> > >  (Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with the boat or owner.)
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  ___
> > >  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > >  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > >  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > >  
> > >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  -- 
> >  Jim Watts
> >  Paradigm Shift
> >  C&C 35 Mk III
> >  Victoria, BC
> >  
> >  
> >  ___
> >  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >  
> >  
> >   
> >  
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> >  
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Try this:
http://www.cinnamonsoftware.com/whats_where.htm

I haven't tried it myself, but seems like it might do what your looking for.


On 04/17/13, Fred Hazzard   wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most boaters stow all kinds of things on their boats. I am no exception. In 
> fact my wife thinks I am pack rat. When locating or remembering what I have 
> on board became a problem I inventoried everything and wrote up a list of 
> where it is stowed. While this has helped, it is not easy to use when looking 
> for a particular item since I have inventoried items by the locker where it 
> is stowed. Thus, when I want to find a particular item I have to search the 
> inventory in each locker. Creating a cross reference would help, but I find 
> that task a little daunting.
> 
>  
> 
> This brings me to the point of this email. Do any of you have a computer 
> program to list and locate your stuff on board?
> 
>  
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> 
> S/V Fury
> 
> C&C 44
> 
> Portland, Or
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Try this:
http://www.cinnamonsoftware.com/whats_where.htm

I haven't tried it myself, but seems like it might do what your looking for.


On 04/17/13, Fred Hazzard   wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most boaters stow all kinds of things on their boats. I am no exception. In 
> fact my wife thinks I am pack rat. When locating or remembering what I have 
> on board became a problem I inventoried everything and wrote up a list of 
> where it is stowed. While this has helped, it is not easy to use when looking 
> for a particular item since I have inventoried items by the locker where it 
> is stowed. Thus, when I want to find a particular item I have to search the 
> inventory in each locker. Creating a cross reference would help, but I find 
> that task a little daunting.
> 
>  
> 
> This brings me to the point of this email. Do any of you have a computer 
> program to list and locate your stuff on board?
> 
>  
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> 
> S/V Fury
> 
> C&C 44
> 
> Portland, Or
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Pretty sure Graham used these:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,70322&p=70323


On 04/09/13, Bill Coleman   wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> Fred, 
>  
> Do you have a link to the LED’s you used?
>  
>  
>   
> Bill Coleman
>  
> C&C 39 
>  
>  
>  
>
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the
> ceiling behind defusers. I control them with wireless controllers that
> dim and turn them on and off. The LED’s are very bright and
> being able to dim them improves the cabin ambiance a lot. 
>  
>  
>  
> Fred Hazzard
>  
> S/V Fury
>  
> C&C 44
>  
> Portland, Or
>  
>  
>
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins
> 
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
>  
>  
>  
>  
>   
> Switches. I was going to
> add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.
>  
> Graham Collins
> 
> Secret Plans
> 
> C&C 35-III #11
>  
> On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>  
>  
> >   
> > Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just
> > switching them at the breaker? 
> >   
> >  
> >  
> >   
> > Joel
> >  
> >   
> > 35/3
> >  
> >   
> > The Office 
> >  
> >   
> > Annapolis
> >  
> >  
> >   
> >  
> >   
> > On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:
> >  
> > The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low
> > power.
> > 
> > I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
> > 
> > board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
> > 
> > place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
> > 
> > are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
> > 
> > may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
> > 
> > LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
> > 
> > or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
> > 
> > have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
> > 
> > 2.5v at rated current.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
> > 
> > at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
> >  ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
> > 
> > The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
> > 
> > 1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
> >  ( Power in Watts = Amps squared * Resistance )
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
> > 
> > were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
> > 
> > is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
> > 
> > less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > C&C 30
> > 
> > Windburn
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > Hi All.
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip lights
> > that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used on
> > boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few 
> > variations
> > on the LED types with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and
> > "SMD 3528". The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any
> > colour, they are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. 
> > The
> > 3528, which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume less (why I
> > chose them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths for about $20. The 3528
> > strip that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it! They can be cut to size. I 
> > purchased
> > these to provide accent lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough 
> > to
> > be used as a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading (not 
> > the
> > way I'm installing them, anyway).
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak trim on
> > both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either side. They should 
> > be
> > hidden from view in there and I will likely aim them UP into that void 
> > rather
> > than down, I'm a big fan of diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural
> > white 4500k" LEDs. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient
> > light in the cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and insta

Re: Stus-List Possible C&C 30 purchase

[Jeffrey Nelson]

9000lbs may not be fine. Mine hull 549 1979 weighs in at 9600lbs wet, no mast, 
full fuel and water tanks, dishes, beer, rum
and bedding on boardaccording to the load cell on the crane. You might be 
under 9000 in the spring when it's all dried out
and no equipment on board. I assume BBYC has a load limiter on the craneso 
you'd be able to find out.

Main sheet just in front of the wheel works just fine for short handed 
cruising. Get's a bit crowded for full crew racing.
If you move it forward, it will likely interfere with the dodger, I've thought 
about that a few times. I'd leave the original
in place as it's really handy when short handed cruising. Sure no cockpit 
table, but that's not a big deal when underway
and when stopped you can use any multitude of free standing tables.

I've enjoyed mine for 13 years now, and have replaced the mast step and have 
almost finished recoring and replacing
the floor due to the installation of teak and holly floor using screws into the 
core and bilge. :-(

Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30 

On 03/19/13, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"   wrote:
> Graham,
> I asked Belinda what the max capacity was for the club crane when I started 
> thinking about bigger boats - she told me the max lift is 9000lbs - so the 30 
> should be fine. I'm trying to stay within the club capacity a)to save the 
> extra expense of the big crane haul and b)makes timing for launch and haul 
> easier rather than being scheduled by the big crane availability.
> As for height clearance - I'm not sure what I'd be looking at. I know I had a 
> problem with my Mirage 24 on the club crane - the mast was too short and the 
> back stay tangled with the hoist -- I had to remove the stay the one time I 
> lifted the boat with the mast in place.
> Not sure how the C&C 30 would fair in that case, but also not sure if I'd 
> leave the mast up for winter - dropping the mast on the 24 was a 2 person job 
> by hand, I'm guessing the mast on the 30 is a whole lot heavier!!! -- I'll 
> get into those questions with this list later if I have the boat.
> 
> As for some of the other suggestions. The boat I currently most interested in 
> has a new diesel in 2000 (Yanmar 18Hp) and a new poly fuel tank in 2010. The 
> boat is in salt water (Long Island) - possibly with original rigging.
> The boat is a 1979 - no teak/holly floor, but the mast should already be a 
> bit higher up and not the "roller/reefing" style.
> The current mainsheet traveler position looks difficult (easy to tangle crew, 
> can't use cockpit table under sail and looks hard to sheet in and out from 
> the helm) -- that said is it safe to move the traveler to forward of the 
> dodger? - I'd think that would be a huge change of forces to have it mid-boom 
> rather than end of boom.
> I'll put the thru-hulls on the list of upgrades if I get the boat, as well as 
> making sure the waste tank is solid.
> 
> Thanks for all the info. The price on the boat is good (under $16000 US) - 
> but I'll need to get it home from NY - so I'm trying to decide between a 
> professional captain delivery, shipping it or sailing it back myself with a 
> couple buddies.
> If all looks good when my SailNet contact checks it out next week then I'll 
> be looking into a proper survey - make sure the rigging and engine are solid 
> for trip back to NS.
> 
> BTW - any thoughts on importing a boat from the US to Canada? I'm assuming 
> I'll just be paying HST on the purchase price (I bought a little bowrider 
> power boat in Boston a few years back - pretty simple crossing to border, 
> just paid HST --- but not sure how it works if I'm sailing home)
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> -
>  Dr. Mark Bodnar
> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
> Bedford Chiropractic
> www.bedfordchiro.ca
> -
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> On 18/03/2013 9:03 PM, Graham Collins wrote:
> >Hello Mark
> >You might want to recheck with the club, I believe the rating on the club 
> >crane is about 6000 lbs and from what I see the C&C 30 is around 8000 lbs. 
> >Also check the height clearance. I previously had an Aloha 27, it was a 
> >tight fit. I'm not aware of any 30 footers that get hauled with that crane. 
> >That said, the annual big crane launch and haul isn't much of a problem. And 
> >I have not examined the numbers, it may be possible.
> >
> >I've sailed on Jeff's C&C 30, it is a fine boat and sailed well in what I'd 
> >guess was > 25 knots. He keeps it at AYC. There are lots of others in the 
> >neighborhood.
> >
> >Hope the search goes well.
> >
> >Graham Collins
> >Secret Plans
> >C&C 35-III #11
> >BBYC, Halifax
> >
> >On 2013-03-18 4:33 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
> >>
> >>Hi All,
> >>
> >>I'm new to the list. Just joined up as I'm getting serious about moving up 
> >>to a bigger boat.
> >>Currently sail a Mirage 24 in Halifax NS Canada, bought it last year, loved 
> >>getting back on the water, but it's a l

Re: Stus-List Replacement Rudders

[Jeffrey Nelson]

For mine, I made the adjustment between the wheel and cockpit sole. :-)

On 03/06/13, Knowles Rich   wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't you need weight in the stern for traction?
> 
>  Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> On 2013-03-06, at 3:29 PM, Jeffrey Nelson  wrote:
> 
> I've seen what they can do. They're pretty good. The heart of the business is 
> building rudders for
> skiff's. They ship world wide. I've seen a couple of C&C rudders that they've 
> done and they look good,
> and weigh about half of the original.
> 
> --
> Cheers,
>  Jeff Nelson
>  Muir Caileag
>  C&C 30
> 
> On 03/05/13, Michael Dean   wrote:
> > Here is a link to what used to be Phil's Foils in Ottawa. Looks like he has
> > rudder for C&C 35 (depending on which model 35). Probably less expensive
> > depending on whether he can reuse the inner skeleton. I have no personal
> > knowledge of quality. 
> > 
> > http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/
> > 
> > Mike Dean
> > C&C 27 Mk III
> > Oakville, ON
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
> >  On Behalf Of Joseph
> > Sisson
> > Sent: March-05-13 2:24 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Introducing me...
> > 
> > Hello Fellow Listers,
> > 
> > Allow me to introduce myselfmy name is Joseph Sisson and I am the proud
> > owner of Silent Runner a 1975 C&C 35 MKII...hull # 350.
> > I purchased her last August. She was on the hard in a marina on the North
> > Channel of Lake Huron.
> > After a couple months of testing, cleaning, replacing, retrofitting,
> > restoring etc...I set out on what was supposed to be a voyage down Lake
> > Michigan and into the river systems exiting at Mobile Alabama and into the
> > Gulf of Mexico. 
> > The plan was that I would sail the boat to the Caribbean and eventually
> > through the Panama Canal and onto Vancouver BC Canada which is where I want
> > the boat to end up.
> > Long story short I ran aground on the evening of the first day of my voyage,
> > was rescued (taken off the boat) by the Ontario Provincial Police (Marine
> > Unit) after several unsuccessful attempts to pull the boat off the rocks.
> > After four loong days of waiting for the wind to die down so
> > that we (I hired a local fisherman and his boat) could get back to my boat,
> > I was overjoyed to find her still afloat.
> > We attached a 400 foot line to the main halyard and pulled Silent Runner
> > from the top of the mast until she heeled over enough to float her off the
> > rocks.
> > I wish I had know how to do that on the night that I ran aground and would
> > have tried that with the OPP boat. (You learn these things as you go.)
> > 
> > Photos of the "rescue" of the boat can be found at:
> > http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=155629101249005&set=a.155628851249030
> > .52955.124818477663401&type=3&permPage=1
> > 
> > Although the rudder was badly damaged, I still had steerage and motored SR
> > to Gore Bay where she was hauled and is now awaiting my return in the
> > spring.
> > While at Gore Bay I got to know the service manager of a sailboat charter
> > company there and shared with him the story of my running aground.
> > After inspecting the damage to the rudder and the hull his comment was:
> > 
> > If that had been one of our boats (they have mostly late model
> > sailboats to offer there clients) if would have been in pieces.
> > 
> > So I am very glad that I choose to purchase a C&C and Silent Runner's story
> > is testament to the solid construction of these boats (something that I do
> > not wish to test again).
> > 
> > I have been monitoring this forum and reading the postings for months now
> > and am only now chiming in.
> > I found the C&C Photo Album website and this forum while researching
> > potential sailboats to purchase.
> > I suggest that the website and this active forum of C&C owners should be
> > included as a selling feature with any C&C. (Great resource and great
> > people!)
> > 
> > Through the list I was informed of the Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes
> > and have contacted them to obtain drawings of the C&C 35 MKII (still waiting
> > for the results of their search).
> > Are there any 35 MKII owners who have obtained drawings of this design?
> > I am considering doin

Re: Stus-List Replacement Rudders

[Jeffrey Nelson]

I've seen what they can do. They're pretty good. The heart of the business is 
building rudders for
skiff's. They ship world wide. I've seen a couple of C&C rudders that they've 
done and they look good,
and weigh about half of the original.

--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30

On 03/05/13, Michael Dean   wrote:
> Here is a link to what used to be Phil's Foils in Ottawa. Looks like he has
> rudder for C&C 35 (depending on which model 35). Probably less expensive
> depending on whether he can reuse the inner skeleton. I have no personal
> knowledge of quality. 
> 
> http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/
> 
> Mike Dean
> C&C 27 Mk III
> Oakville, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
>  On Behalf Of Joseph
> Sisson
> Sent: March-05-13 2:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Introducing me...
> 
> Hello Fellow Listers,
> 
> Allow me to introduce myselfmy name is Joseph Sisson and I am the proud
> owner of Silent Runner a 1975 C&C 35 MKII...hull # 350.
> I purchased her last August. She was on the hard in a marina on the North
> Channel of Lake Huron.
> After a couple months of testing, cleaning, replacing, retrofitting,
> restoring etc...I set out on what was supposed to be a voyage down Lake
> Michigan and into the river systems exiting at Mobile Alabama and into the
> Gulf of Mexico. 
> The plan was that I would sail the boat to the Caribbean and eventually
> through the Panama Canal and onto Vancouver BC Canada which is where I want
> the boat to end up.
> Long story short I ran aground on the evening of the first day of my voyage,
> was rescued (taken off the boat) by the Ontario Provincial Police (Marine
> Unit) after several unsuccessful attempts to pull the boat off the rocks.
> After four loong days of waiting for the wind to die down so
> that we (I hired a local fisherman and his boat) could get back to my boat,
> I was overjoyed to find her still afloat.
> We attached a 400 foot line to the main halyard and pulled Silent Runner
> from the top of the mast until she heeled over enough to float her off the
> rocks.
> I wish I had know how to do that on the night that I ran aground and would
> have tried that with the OPP boat. (You learn these things as you go.)
> 
>   Photos of the "rescue" of the boat can be found at:
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=155629101249005&set=a.155628851249030
> .52955.124818477663401&type=3&permPage=1
> 
> Although the rudder was badly damaged, I still had steerage and motored SR
> to Gore Bay where she was hauled and is now awaiting my return in the
> spring.
> While at Gore Bay I got to know the service manager of a sailboat charter
> company there and shared with him the story of my running aground.
> After inspecting the damage to the rudder and the hull his comment was:
> 
>   If that had been one of our boats (they have mostly late model
> sailboats to offer there clients) if would have been in pieces.
> 
> So I am very glad that I choose to purchase a C&C and Silent Runner's story
> is testament to the solid construction of these boats (something that I do
> not wish to test again).
> 
> I have been monitoring this forum and reading the postings for months now
> and am only now chiming in.
> I found the C&C Photo Album website and this forum while researching
> potential sailboats to purchase.
> I suggest that the website and this active forum of C&C owners should be
> included as a selling feature with any C&C. (Great resource and great
> people!)
> 
> Through the list I was informed of the Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes
> and have contacted them to obtain drawings of the C&C 35 MKII (still waiting
> for the results of their search).
> Are there any 35 MKII owners who have obtained drawings of this design?
> I am considering doing the repairs to the rudder myself after receiving
> quotes of $4K and $5K from two companies.
> I welcome any suggestions or comments as to the feasibility of doing the
> repair myself.
> 
> To Jim Watts re hatch replacement: through this list I was informed of
> Hammerhead Nautical Systems in Toronto.
> I recently sent them the "glass" for my hatch on my Edel 665 (I am currently
> restoring her to like new condition).
> They are going to supply a new "glass" (with my original hardware attached)
> and new gaskets for about $300.
> The link to their website is: http://www.hhns.ca
> 
> To Kim Brown re an easier third choice for leaking windows: you might want
> to consider butyl tape.
> Also through this list I was informed of this product.
> An informative article with photos can be found at:
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-b
> utyl-tape.html
> 
> 
> Sorry for running on so long
> 
> Cheers,
> Joseph Sisson
> s/v Silent Runner
> 1975 C&C 35 MKII
> Hull #350 (second last 35 MKII off the line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Guess I should have read this one

On 02/26/13, "Richard N. Bush"   wrote:
> Its at 29 Mark I model
> 
> 
>   Richard
>  
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 
> 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
> 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
> 
> 502-584-7255
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  -Original Message-
> 
> From: Tim Sippel 
> 
> To: cnc-list 
> 
> Sent: Tue, Feb 26, 2013 2:19 pm
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
> 
> 
>I’ll take 29ft for 100 Alex. 
>   
>  Tim . Toronto 
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of dwight veinot
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 2:16 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>  
>  
>   
>  But it’s not!!!
>   
>   Dwight Veinot
>  C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
>   
>  
>  
>  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of dwight veinot
> 
> Sent: February 26, 2013 3:11 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>  
>   
>  Looks like a 30 MKII to me
>   
>   Dwight Veinot
>  C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
>   
>   
>  
>  
>  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
> 
> Sent: February 26, 2013 2:46 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>  
>   
>  Not a 32 circa 1982. I have one of those and the stern is not swept and the 
> galley is significantly different.
>   
>  Neil
>  FoxFire, 1982 C&C 32
>  Worton Creek MD.
>   
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 1:35 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
>  
>  
>   
>   Definitely not a 30-1, could be a 32 or a 30-2 or a 27-5. 
>  
>   Gary
>  
>  
> >   - Original Message - 
> >  
> >   From: Joseph Bognar  
> >  
> >   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> >  
> >   Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 1:26 PM
> >  
> >   Subject: Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
> >  
> >
> >  
> >  That boat is not a 30 ft C&C, It looks like a 32. 30’s do not have a swept 
> > back transom like that,
> >   
> >  Joe Bognar
> >  1979 C&C 30
> >  In Luff Again 11
> >   
> >From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > ] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
> > 
> > Sent: February-26-13 12:02 PM
> > 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > 
> > Subject: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
> >  
> >  
> >   
> >  http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3633044380.html
> >   
> >  I suspect this may be the old Synchronicity.
> >   
> >   Joe Della Barba
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  ___
> > 
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > 
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com(http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/)
> > 
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >  
>  
>  
>  
>  No virus found in this message.
> 
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com(http://www.avg.com/)
> 
> Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2641/5634 - Release Date: 02/26/13
> 
>  
>  No virus found in this message.
> 
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com(http://www.avg.com/)
> 
> Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2641/5634 - Release Date: 02/26/13
>  
>  
> 
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject 
> to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are 
> not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, 
> distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly 
> prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by 
> applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. 
> E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you 
> communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us 
> immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or 
> any storage medium without printing a copy.
>  Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et 
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit 
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son 
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en 
> tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les 
> messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et 
> les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas 
> sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés 
> si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu 
> ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce 
> courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout

Re: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Looks more like a 29

On 02/26/13, Curtis   wrote:
> I purchased my complete boat for this price. Up keep is hard. it would
> be better to let someone pay for that on mine too.
> 
> Appraisel
> 
> 
> On 2/26/13, Joseph Bognar  wrote:
> > That boat is not a 30 ft C&C, It looks like a 32. 30's do not have a swept
> > back transom like that,
> >
> >
> >
> > Joe Bognar
> >
> > 1979 C&C 30
> >
> > In Luff Again 11
> >
> >
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
> >  On Behalf Of Della
> > Barba, Joe
> > Sent: February-26-13 12:02 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List FYI - found this C&C 30 share deal
> >
> >
> >
> > http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3633044380.html
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect this may be the old Synchronicity.
> >
> >
> >
> > Joe Della Barba
> >
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List McGregor 26M vs Hunter 27 Edge

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Well, I'll come out of the closet.

I've sailed a Venture (original Macgregger hull) and a Mac 26x but not the 26M 
(or as I affectionately call it the 26sux)
I've also sailed a C&C 24,27,29 and 30, a henderson 30, an ultimate 20, viper 
and I-14...probably a few others.

I'll say that you can sail a Mac 26 to weather, most of the bad press it gets 
is because the overly fanatical
owners of Mac's aren't that great at sailing. I wouldn't call it a great 
windward boat, but it is capable of pointing better 
than a bayfield. The reality is it really wasn't designed for that 
anyways...that's why they put that big honking 
engine on the back to get to weather and then gentlemanly sail off the wind 
back. I think the original design
of the non-venture based hulls was for windward/leeward lakes, so you could 
power up there and then enjoy
a nice sail back. The biggest drawback of the Mac is that it is very lightly 
built. I watched a repair of one
in Ottawa (NSC has over 50 of them) which had a small hole in the starboard 
hull. By the time the repair
company was finished grinding they had a hole about 15 feet long as they 
couldn't find enough material
to adhere a patch to. I believe the 26M has a break away keel, in case you come 
up against something
hard it won't damage the hull. All of the fittings on the boat in my mind seem 
way undersized. The 26M
has the powerboat wheel, the 26x I sailed had the tiller. The wheel would limit 
the ability to get to a spot where
you could sail and actually see the sail trim. All that being said, if you were 
in a lake like Ottawa typical wind
would be straight down the narrow "lake" and you wanted a fairly roomy boat 
where you could power up to 
the anchorages at the head of the lake and then sail back the next day, it 
might be a good choice for you.
If you want to race or sail to windward and occasionally be caught out in water 
where you can't walk home,
I'd choose something different. 

Food for thought
For the record, a friend of mine has a Warram 28 cat and powers to windward in 
Ottawa and then sails 
back, something he borrowed from the Mac fleet...Cat's of course do not tack 
well and if you got to 
do a bunch of them...slam on the 30hp.

Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
 Armdale
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Who pays for the food and beer?

[Jeffrey Nelson]

As crew:
I bring beer for skipper and crew. Lunch we usually fend for ourselves.
Other crew bring snacks and rhum as required.
Skipper brings boat, wisdom (usually) and a wack load of spare parts.
I find it a great boat to race on, and don't expect anything more than 
everyone's best efforts.

As Skipper:
I usually fill in the blanks on bringing beer and/or Rhum depending on ships 
stores.
I don't think I've ever brought snacks, but I have brought a BBQ once for after 
race raft up.
Crew usually brings beer/rhum and ice and other necessities of life.
I haven't heard any complaints and the core team has been together since I've 
moved to Nova Scotia
two years ago.

Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
On 07/24/12, Oban Lambie   wrote:
> I've always provided snacks, water, sandwiches and beer for my Tuesday
> nite racing crew. My wife just realized this and says I'm too generous
> - implying that the crew should bring their own.
> 
> Sounds cheap and wrong to me as I'm grateful that the crew comes along
> but wanted to know what you other racers do?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Oban
> 
> Circe
> C&C 29-1
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com