Re: Stus-List Lithium Ion batteries

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I actually just switched to lithium batteries, for the reasons everyone
mentioned below... better life, deeper cycling, WEIGHT. I got 200AH worth
of "12v" batteries on ebay for $1200, not name brand but as far as I'm
concerned it's all the same cells on the inside just like buying AGM's from
samsclub vs westmarine.

A couple of things to note:
1) You need a dc-dc converter if you plan to charge from the alternator.
These things charge at 14.5V which is higher than your alternator.
Similarly they charge at HUGE currents so your alternator will just spin up
and kill itself. A DC-DC charger (mine is renogy) prevents this issue.

2) There is a difference between Lithium Ion and Lithium Iron Phosphate
batteries (LiFePo4). Lithium Ion are the ones that only charge to like 13V
and blow up if mistreated. LiPo4's on the other hand don't have this issue
and are super stable, they charger and discharge at higher voltage too
which is good. DONT get lithium, get lithium iron phosphate, it's only a
few $$ more.

Happy sailing and I hope this helps!

~Luke Wolbrink
1985 C 35-3 Zella #84044
___

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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

>
> I've often wondered the same regarding the masts straps, my guess is to
> hold the mast onto the step below which I know is a requirement for the Mac
> race. However unlike on your setup mine doesn't have the thru bolts on teh
> collar so it actually does nothing.



> The rod in the v-birth is to support the baby stay. On my 35-3 there is no
> adjustment below decks as the baby stay is on a track that provides tension
> when slid in and out.
___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 174, Issue 61

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I think I might take the cake... 35, same age as my 1985 35-3 Zella

~Luke

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 8:36 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI (Doug Mountjoy)
>2. Re:  2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI (Bill Coleman)
>3. Re:  2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI (Sam Salter)
>4.  Youngest & Oldest (Stu)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Doug Mountjoy 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 17:54:40 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
> I'm almost 63. But I act 24. 
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Bill Coleman 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 20:56:00 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
>
> Wow, I think you win the prize~!
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob
> Hamlin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 14, 2020 8:53 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rob Hamlin
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
>
>
>
> I’m 36
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2020, at 8:36 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 57.
>
> Therapy
>
> C 29-2
>
> Solomons MD
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> What is the youngest age in this group and oldest
>
> I’m 40
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 5:20 PM detroito91 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I totally agree.  Now is not the time at our ages to gamble with the
> virus. I have not left the house since march, and not going to gamble now.
> It will end. We can schedule then
>
> Stay safe
>
> Jim Schwartz
>
> SEA YA !
>
> 38 landfall
>
> Washington nc
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 7/14/20 3:36 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Cc: Robert Boyer 
>
> Subject: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVID-19?
>
>
>
> Last year, I volunteered to host of the upcoming 2020 Mid-Atlantic C
> Rendezvous in Baltimore MD in late-September.  We recently returned from
> the relative safety of the Bahamas to a raging pandemic in the United
> States and it is far from being over, even though Maryland has done quite
> well in controlling the virus.  I am in my seventies and catching COVID-19
> could mean much more to me than simply being sick for several weeks—it
> could be a death blow.
>
>
>
> Consequently, I am withdrawing as a host for the upcoming rendezvous and I
> will not be attending one being held elsewhere.  I strongly encourage that
> this year's rendezvous be cancelled but that is up to everyone else on this
> list who lives in the Mid-Atlantic area.  In my opinion, a weekend get
> together (even with friendly C owners) is simply not worth the risk of
> catching COVID-19.
>
>
>
> So, I am throwing out the question to other possible attendees, should
> this year’s rendezvous be cancelled?  And, if not, who is willing to host
> it and where?
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> (Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on
> the ICW in between)
>
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> 
>
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> 
>
> (443) 994-1802
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
>
> Joel Delamirande
>
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting 

Re: Stus-List Loong Sails

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I have not purchased from Loong sails but reflect other's comments here
about things made in China, especially in the current climate. I just
purchased a new main from evolution out of New Zealand, really happy with
their service. They even partnered with a local small loft to take care of
any adjustments/repairs which I though was a great compromise to having
dedicated lofts.

Best,
Luke
35-3 Zella
___

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Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello Fellow C'ers,

Things here in Chicago are finally opening up and I'm anticipating being
able to re-step my mast for 2020 pretty soon. When I pulled the mast in
Fall the wooden wedges at the partners were pretty beat up (probably
original 1985) and I hate to continue re-using them. Any suggestions on
what to use that might be better? I un-step the mast every year so trying
to avoid spar-tite if possible.

Thanks,
Luke
C 35-3 "Zella"
___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 172, Issue 72

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

My understanding is the the small tracks (my 35-3 only has the rear ones)
are to help you get really tight sheeting angles when trying to point.
Functionally, I've never used them and typically point higher than most of
the competition even with the big #1 genoa. The forward ones as you note
are probably for a #3 or storm sail to sheet with. You might also be able
to pull off something funky with inhauling from a lead up there but if
you're really just cruising I'm not sure that the effort would worth it.

On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 10:22 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement (Bill Coleman)
>2.  (no subject) (Larry)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Bill Coleman 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 10:31:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement
>
> Ditto.
>
> And by the way, the tank Matt is talking about, I believe is a spherical
> Monel tank, which can take 3#  and probably more.
>
> A large flat tank like the rest of us have will be destroyed by 7# of
> pressure.  The safety valves on large RIBs are set at 2.5# pressure, and
> they are spherical.
>
> 1# of pressure will be plenty to check with soapy water, but from the
> sounds of things, yours is most likely leaking on the bottom, for a number
> of reasons, but mostly that is where the water and bacteria eat through
> them.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matt
> Wolford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2020 3:57 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement
>
>
>
> I just had my 44-year old tank pressure tested to the original
> manufacturer’s specs.  FYI, the industry standard at the time (stamped on
> the tank) was 3 psi.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *ssjohnson
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 20, 2020 3:11 PM
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* ssjohnson 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the options...knowing them is half the battle.  I checked
> with the Yard
>
> ... they suggested removing all fuel and trying a pressure test at no more
> than 7psi.  Off to get half a dozen 5 gallon Jerry cans :-(
>
> Spencer Johnson
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Larry 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 08:21:37 -0700
> Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
> I am hoping I can post a photo! I have never tried before!
> I have a 38-ft MK
> From the photo you can clearly see the main track for the Genoa. But I
> have two smaller tracks.
> One on the cabin forward of the handrail and one far back, on a small
> ledge on the side of the companionway. I am new to sailing and boat
> ownership, 5 years. Nobody I know, knows what these tracks are for! Does
> anyone have a similar setup or know what they are for! I suspect the
> forward maybe for a stay sail or storm jib?
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List new sails

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I just bought a new main from evolution sails. It's a kiwi based company
but their local rep in Chicago really took his time to work through things.
Was less than quantum but more than precision for a similar sail. I got a
racing laminate from their element line for my 35-3 but they also offer
white sails.
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Making the plunge from JAM to Spin doesn't need to be terrifying or
expensive (unless you want it to.) You can find a used chute for a couple
hundred bucks online and as others mentioned a few blocks and line and
you're going. Once you've learned to tame the pole and kite then go and
spend the money on those fancy black sails and a new properly cut colorful
one... or dont. Iv'e found that we loose more often not becasue we have
older sails but because we blow a tack or spinnaker douse. All of the money
in the world won't make up the 2 minutes you spend trying to get that
hourglass out of the kite.

That said, Chicago has a pretty robust racing scene on weekends with 5
major clubs working together to provide lots of events and variety. In
order to help develop those white sail JAM guys and get them out on
weekends where things are more competitive we started what is referred to
as our Casual series of races. The idea is to remove as many of the
barriers as possible; it's like a drug once you've gotten a taste you're
hooked. Basically the RC assigns a phrf rating to boats without a
certificate and then the start is a 15 minute rolling start. That way folks
that are intimidated by jockeying around can hang back and not be
penalized. The course are usually around 8-10 miles long so plenty of time
to make maneuvers etc. We've typically seen 10-20 boats out on a given
saturday and after a few seasons we're starting to see some of them come
out into the racing fleet.

Cheers,
Luke
1985 35-3 Zella
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Navtec Rebuild or?

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Everyone talking about backstay tension reminded me of a project I was
looking to do this winter; rebuild the backstay tensioner. It's the
original navtec one with the handle and guage built-in. There's always a
bit of oil on the ram when it's extended so I'm guessing just needs a new
seal.

1) Is there a recommended place to get these serviced since Navtec is out
of business? I'm in Chicago so hopefully something in the midwest.

2) I'm relatively handy, is it something that can be DIY? If so any idea
where to get parts? I could care less about the guage (like others I have a
marked batten)

3) If I wanted to to the replace route any recommendations on manufacturers
(there are several) and sizes?

thanks in advance,
Luke
1985, 35-3 Zella

On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 7:33 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (Patrick Gateley)
>2. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (Josh Muckley)
>3. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (David Risch)
>4. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (Matthew L. Wolford)
>5. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (Dennis C.)
>6. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (CHARLES SCHEAFFER)
>7. Re:  C 44 Navtec backstay psi (Michael Brannon)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Patrick Gateley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2019 11:50:27 -0800
> Subject: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
> Hi all,
>
> We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we
> should keep it at while moored?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kari and Patrick Gateley
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 15:00:45 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
> It's almost irrelevant.  I keep mine just more than slack so that if
> someone uses it to support themselves it won't give too much.
>
> ~500psi-ish
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 2:51 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we
>> should keep it at while moored?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Kari and Patrick Gateley
>> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: David Risch 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 20:34:49 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
>
> On my 40 I keep mine at 1000 or thereabouts…
>
>
>
> *David F. Risch*
>
> *(401) 419-4650*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Gateley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 2, 2019 2:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Patrick Gateley 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we
> should keep it at while moored?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Kari and Patrick Gateley
>
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 15:58:40 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
> I only do about 500 pounds sitting at the dock.  I might go a little
> higher on at a mooring just because the boat bounces around more.
>
> *From:* David Risch via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, December 02, 2019 3:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David Risch 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
>
>
> On my 40 I keep mine at 1000 or thereabouts…
>
>
>
> *David F. Risch*
>
> *(401) 419-4650*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Gateley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 2, 2019 2:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Patrick Gateley 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we
> should keep it at while moored?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Kari and Patrick Gateley
>
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  

Re: Stus-List boat selling tips

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I've had lots of luck and sold to older boats on sailboatlistings.com it's
free and lots of brokers you today as well tons of visibility. just be
aware there's plenty of scam artists out there looking to make a buck.

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 11:00 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  Air in fuel line (cenel...@aol.com)
>2.  Boat Selling Tips (captain_j...@cox.net)
>3.  3 blade prop question (Brian Davis)
>4. Re:  3 blade prop question (Doug Mountjoy)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: cenel...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 16:26:41 + (UTC)
> Subject: Stus-List Air in fuel line
> When replacing the top cover with large 0-ring of the Racor (whether you
> mount a vacuum gauge on it or not), be sure to not over-tighten it--whether
> you use your hand (as Racor recommends IIRC) or a wrench.
>
> I got carried away when I installed a vacuum gauge on the top plate and
> had more engine stalls with air in the line than I could count!
>
> My mechanic was as confused as I was but suggested that I replace the top
> plate of the Racor--voila problem solved!
>
> I evidently over-tightened the plate enough that I deformed it very
> slightly so that the middle of it (where the bolt/gauge is threaded into
> the bottom piece) was 'dimpled in'. As a result, the outer edge of the
> plate (which holds the large O-ring) was unable to seal properly when fuel
> was sucked thru it so air was admitted.
>
> When pressure tested, there was no leak since the pressure un-dimpled the
> plate enough to seal the O-ring! Talk about Murphy being a sailor!!
>
> FWIW,
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 10:10:38 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Boat Selling Tips
>
> *Hi guys,*
>
> *I’ve been lurking for quite some time, but still have an interest for
> this great group.  Having purchased a larger cruising boat last year
> (Bavaria 44), I have tried for over a year to sell my 1986 C Mk-III.  I
> initially tried to sell it myself.  I listed it on Craigslist, advertised
> on the FSBO web site (for sale by owner), and spread the word through my
> local sailors.*
>
> *When summer turned to fall and no action, I enlisted a reputable local
> broker to list my boat.  After listing it on Yacht World for over a year,
> we have yet to have a single buyer interested enough to even come take a
> look at it.  *
>
> *The boat is well equipped for racing and cruising and comes with a ton of
> equipment.  I’ve dropped the price over $10K and still no interest.  What
> does it take to sell a boat these days?  Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.*
>
> *Thanks,*
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *1986 C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brian Davis 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 10:35:27 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 3 blade prop question
> Good day fellow C'ers,
>
> I currently have a 2 blade prop on our Landfall 38SL (1980).  The control
> while in reverse is barely anything and I'm considering a 3 blade. I
> understand I'll lose some efficiency, but I'd prefer better motoring
> control. I've read about the prop in the below link, but was wondering what
> some of you have in regards to diameter and pitch. I know my shaft is 1
> 1/8".
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> Michigan Wheel 18 inch 3 Blade Sailer 3 bronze SL33B18B prop
>
> https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/18-sailer3-3-blade-bronze?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBrM4rjywTB6pMhu5xTu6fZMXarnoJezC-QbExaUHfxbZJkXXuWqe8waAvUEEALw_wcB
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Doug Mountjoy 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 08:02:17 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 3 blade prop question
> HI Brian,
> I had a LF38 (hull #4) with the same issues you're complaining about.
> Inefficiency while motoring, almost non-existence reverse. I installed a
> fixed pitch 3 blade prop. While it did help with motoring, reverse was not
> much better. On my new (to me) LF39, which came with a max prop. All I can
> say is wow! What a difference. motoring forward is better than the 2 blade
> and about equal to the fixed 3 blade. Reverse is a whole  new world. That
> being said. I had the Paragon transmission which I could leave is neutral
> while sailing. Letting the prop freewheel. I think the dimension for the

Stus-List Keel Gouge Repair

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello all,

While headed up the river to take Zella (35-3) out for the season (yes, I
know it's early) I hit some sort of underwater obstruction at about 4kts.
Took a chunk out of the keel with it as you can see in the photo. Any
suggestions on how to repair? Just clean up the edges and fill it with
thickened epoxy and fair it? For those of you worried, I'm well aware of
the dangers of working with/around lead so proper precautions will be taken.

Thanks,
Luke
___

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Stus-List 1985 Color Question

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello group,

I'm looking to make some repairs to the deck this winter and fill in some
stress cracks etc. The boat has the original gel-coat still. Has anyone had
any luck with a topside paint that matches the gel-coat on a circa 1985
boat? It's an off white that gets darker when wet and I hate to have to
paint the whole thing just because I filled in some cracks in the cabintop.

Thanks,
Luke
1985 35-3' "Zella"
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I recently had a similar issue where the engine would drop RPM's under load
and eventaully stumble and die. It ended up being the fuel lift pump was on
it's last legs and just not getting enough fuel to the high pressure pump
once the fuel level in the tank was low enough not to just siphon. Instead
of replacing with a yanmar part for $$$ I bought an electric fuel pump on
amazon for under $20 and wired it into the key switch, works perfect and
not more problems.

hope that helps.

~Luke
SV Zella 1985 35-3

On Sun, Aug 18, 2019 at 9:29 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (Eugene Fodor)
>2. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (Robert Boyer)
>3. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (Eugene Fodor)
>4. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop
>   (Jeff Helsdingen)
>5. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (ALAN BERGEN)
>6. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (Paul Baker)
>7. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop
>   (John and Maryann Read)
>8. Re:  Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop (Bill)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Eugene Fodor 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2019 19:13:31 -0500
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop
> My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It
> also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at
> the dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be
> able to get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with
> no issue, but I'm only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle
> wide it in gear it initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I
> replaced the fuel filter and the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on
> what to look for and approaches to debug?
>
> I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but
> nothing is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly well.
>
> So my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice
> perspective based on reading)
>
> Governor is faulty and needs adjustment
> Injector faulty
> Fuel pump issue
> Air/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out)
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Eugene Fodor 
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2019 20:27:57 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop
> While this may not help you with your diesel issue, in the 36 years that I
> have owned my boat, I have never even tried to achieve RPMs above about
> 2800.  I can achieve hull speed at 2600 RPMs and I generally cruise at 2400
> RPM.
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On Aug 17, 2019, at 8:13 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load.
> It also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at
> the dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be
> able to get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with
> no issue, but I'm only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle
> wide it in gear it initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I
> replaced the fuel filter and the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on
> what to look for and approaches to debug?
> >
> > I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but
> nothing is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly well.
> >
> > So my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice
> perspective based on reading)
> >
> > Governor is faulty and needs adjustment
> > Injector faulty
> > Fuel pump issue
> > Air/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out)
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Eugene Fodor 
> To: Robert Boyer , cnc-list 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: 

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The
forestay is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy
aluminum casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to
run a retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole
in that aluminum casting and attach a block for the tack?

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:55 AM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Luke,
> The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only
> to handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the
> situations you described, that do happen with a snuffer.
>
> Bruno Lachance.
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>
> Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and
> some shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other
> than wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing
> more time screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The
> admiral would like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for
> the symmetrical but it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck
> with both hands in the air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like
> a good way to do an unanticipated man overboard drill.
>
> I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C which is why I thought
> it was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!
>
> On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Luke,
>>
>> If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C extrusion and
>> Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or
>> newer, the mast would be an Offshore spar.
>>
>> The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed
>> to pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for
>> recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it
>> could be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed
>> on a Facnor.
>>
>> The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But
>> if you want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to
>> uses it of caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem
>> cruising, but For more heated situation at a mark rounding, not always
>> ideal. The sock will do the job quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a
>> good one like an ATN, it's very unlikely to happen if handled properly.
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine,33-2
>> New-Richmond,Qc
>>
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>
>> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
>> ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
>> assumed they were out of business.
>>
>> Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
>> just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Luke
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
>>> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
>>> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
>>> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
>>> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
>>> them.
>>>
>>> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
>>> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>>>
>>> Love the bowsprit!
>>>
>>> Bruno Lachance
>>> Bécassine, 33-2
>>> NewRichmond
>>>
>>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>>
>>> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>>>
>>> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
>>> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
>>> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
>>> crew needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that
>>> I know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you
>>> understand the adjustments

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and
some shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other
than wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing
more time screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The
admiral would like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for
the symmetrical but it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck
with both hands in the air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like
a good way to do an unanticipated man overboard drill.

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C which is why I thought
it was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Hi Luke,
>
> If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C extrusion and
> Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or
> newer, the mast would be an Offshore spar.
>
> The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed
> to pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for
> recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it
> could be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed
> on a Facnor.
>
> The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if
> you want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses
> it of caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but
> For more heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock
> will do the job quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an
> ATN, it's very unlikely to happen if handled properly.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine,33-2
> New-Richmond,Qc
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>
> Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
> ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
> assumed they were out of business.
>
> Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
> just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?
>
> Thanks again,
> Luke
>
> On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
>> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
>> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
>> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
>> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
>> them.
>>
>> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
>> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>>
>> Love the bowsprit!
>>
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine, 33-2
>> NewRichmond
>>
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>
>> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>>
>> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
>> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
>> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
>> crew needed.
>>
>>
>>
>> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that
>> I know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>>
>>
>>
>> If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you
>> understand the adjustments that will be applied.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Luke
>> Wolbrink via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Folks,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
>> asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
>> have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
>>
>>
>>
>> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
>> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
>> top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
>> any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Luke
>>
>> SV Zella C 35-3
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
assumed they were out of business.

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
> them.
>
> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>
> Love the bowsprit!
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> NewRichmond
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>
> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
> crew needed.
>
>
>
> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I
> know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>
>
>
> If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you
> understand the adjustments that will be applied.
>
>
>
> Hope that helps.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Luke
> Wolbrink via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion
>
>
>
> Hello Folks,
>
>
>
> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
> asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
> have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
>
>
>
> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
> top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
> any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Luke
>
> SV Zella C 35-3
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
SV Zella C 35-3
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-5 outhaul control line

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello,

I'm currently re-rigging my 35-3  and have run into some trouble with the
outhaul. There is clearly a purchase system inside the boom making
replacing the control line that comes out at the gooseneck impossible. Is
there anyone on here who has made this replacement and if so is it possible
without taking apart the boom? If I do need to take it apart, is it better
done from the gooseneck or the clew end?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
1985 35-3 'Zella'
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello All,

I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming
spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the
'upper' genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the
cockpit coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet
leads with the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My
question is how do you transition from using a block here do the lower main
track when you fall off to a reach or downwind?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Luke wolbrink
1985 C 35-3 Mr. JJ
Chicago, IL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray