Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 2 available

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

A benefit of the older 35s, as I recall, is that the hull is solid glass.  No 
core to worry about.

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2024 6:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 2 available

 

David.  My alma mater Tabor Academy lm Marion, MA has a very active sailing 
program and may be interested in your donation.  Worth a try.  Use my name. 
John Read  class 1965

 

On Mon, May 20, 2024, 6:06 PM David Kelly via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Looking for a little help on options.  My job is being relocated to Europe over 
the summer.  As a result, I am looking to sell or donate my C 35-2, hull #207.

 

I reached out to Mass Maritime and one other place and received a “does not fit 
our program” reply.  Any suggestions are welcome.  I need to get serious, as my 
relocation has gone from a possibility to a reality over the last month. 

 

David Kelly

Baraka, C 35-2

Noroton, CT





On May 20, 2024, at 2:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



I could buy that boat cheaper than repainting my boat, getting a Yanmar, and 
buying all that teak.

Joe

 

From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2024 1:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Neil Gallagher mailto:njgallag...@optonline.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

 

My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that on the 
topsides.  I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY 

On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:

Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any other 35 with this much teak:

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1970-c$c-35-mk-i-9350708/

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Martin – very Interesting.  Do you have the “I-beam” fix drawing in pdf 
format?  If so, may I have a copy?

 

It has always been troubling to me that, unlike car manufacturers, boat 
manufacturers do not alert boat owners about potentially dangerous issues upon 
discovery.  Case in point: my Dad’s Cal 33 suffered a crack in the aft end of 
the keel (where it meets the hull) while being lifted from the cradle in the 
early 80s.  That boat has a proper bilge, and a crack at that location allowed 
a significant amount of water in without being noticed.  I crossed Lake Erie 
with some college buddies shortly after the boat launched when the water temp 
was about 55 degrees.  We were in the middle of the Lake when we discovered 
water above the floorboards.  Had we gone down, we would have perished in about 
a half hour (no boats around; no lifeboat on board).  We were able to catch up 
to the water infiltration and stay ahead of it using every pump on board until 
we reached port.  When we got the boat back to home port and hauled the boat 
for repair, we learned that Bill Lapworth (the designer) already had a plan for 
the fix.  Evidently, our Cal 33 was not the first to experience this problem.  
In my view, every Cal 33 owner should have been alerted to the issue once it 
became known.

 

Matt  

 

From: Martin DeYoung  
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2024 6:48 PM
To: Matthew Wolford ; 'Stus-List' ; 
j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

 

Matt,

 

Calypso also had some issues in the mast step area. Back in 1998 when we 
brought her to Seattle we found some failed filler and reinforcement glass just 
forward of the mast step.  We ground out all the old polyester "bog" and 
rebuilt the area with epoxy and glass cloth. We then designed and had 
manufactured a new mast step.

 

Fast forward to around 2015 we purchased all the C&^C 43 "as built" drawings 
available from the C archives at the Maritime Museum.  One of those drawings 
documented how the C/Bruckmann team discovered both the early 61's and 43's 
had a weak point just forward of the mast step.  A fix was designed for the 
61's and 43's built after hull #1 or #2.  The 61 SORCERY was retro fitted with 
an "I" beam that went forward from the mast step about 10'.

 

During Calypso's restoration project we added "I" beams starting on each side 
of the mast step running forward about 5' to reinforce the repairs we did back 
in 98/99.

 

I expect that the C design team, Bruckmann's, and the owners paying the 
bills, on occasion, pushed the design/build envelope in pursuit of that elusive 
extra 1/10 of a knot. I also expect that is why some of the survivors from the 
70's occasionally need some extra repair/restoration.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle

  _  

From: Matthew Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net> >
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2024 2:58 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >; 
j...@dellabarba.com   mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> >
Cc: 'Martin DeYoung' mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior 

 

My 42 Custom is also a Bruckmann “stick built” boat.  In my case, certain 
aspects of the boat were well constructed, others not so much.  For example, 
the recent project I commented on concerns the mast step.  It was constructed 
of aluminum and designed to span three stringers.  Given the apparent load on 
the middle stringer right under the mast, the step should have been constructed 
of stainless to reduce the chance of bending.  It also would have been handy to 
provide access to the two keel bolts underneath.  When we recently removed the 
mast step to gain access to these keel boats – possibly for the first time 
since the boat was built – we discovered the mast step was bent by about 3/8”.  
Fortunately, this did not break the welds.  However, this much compression on 
the middle stringer did break the fiberglass exterior of the stringer directly 
under the mast step, which, in turn, allowed water entry if the bilge filled 
that high (admittedly a rare event).  While affecting repairs, we decided 
against the “best fix” of replacing the mast step and spreading the load as 
originally intended.  Instead, we implemented a “good enough” fix of modifying 
and reinstalling the original mast step and repairing/fortifying the damaged 
middle stringer.  This project and many others revealed that the Bruckmann shop 
did a lot of things “on the fly,” like incorrectly positioning the rudder and 
compensating with two different sized bronze rollers, installing drainage in 
hull compartments that allows standing water, or using wrong size bolts that 
were probably laying around the shop.  It’s been a fun boat, but I’ve done many 
repairs that revealed construction issues.

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2024 5:18 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >; 

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

My 42 Custom is also a Bruckmann “stick built” boat.  In my case, certain 
aspects of the boat were well constructed, others not so much.  For example, 
the recent project I commented on concerns the mast step.  It was constructed 
of aluminum and designed to span three stringers.  Given the apparent load on 
the middle stringer right under the mast, the step should have been constructed 
of stainless to reduce the chance of bending.  It also would have been handy to 
provide access to the two keel bolts underneath.  When we recently removed the 
mast step to gain access to these keel boats – possibly for the first time 
since the boat was built – we discovered the mast step was bent by about 3/8”.  
Fortunately, this did not break the welds.  However, this much compression on 
the middle stringer did break the fiberglass exterior of the stringer directly 
under the mast step, which, in turn, allowed water entry if the bilge filled 
that high (admittedly a rare event).  While affecting repairs, we decided 
against the “best fix” of replacing the mast step and spreading the load as 
originally intended.  Instead, we implemented a “good enough” fix of modifying 
and reinstalling the original mast step and repairing/fortifying the damaged 
middle stringer.  This project and many others revealed that the Bruckmann shop 
did a lot of things “on the fly,” like incorrectly positioning the rudder and 
compensating with two different sized bronze rollers, installing drainage in 
hull compartments that allows standing water, or using wrong size bolts that 
were probably laying around the shop.  It’s been a fun boat, but I’ve done many 
repairs that revealed construction issues.

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2024 5:18 PM
To: 'Stus-List' ; j...@dellabarba.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

 

I have experience with two 1970's era Bruckmann built boats, our 43 
commissioned in January 1971 and a 1974 C 39. I also owned a 1980 C 36 
which was not a Bruckmann built boat.

 

Both Bruckmann boats had a "stick built" interior and a balsa core deck. My 
experience with the 39 was making two Seattle/LA/Hawaii/Seattle round trips and 
being involved with the 39's maintenance and upgrades over 4 years. We have 
owned the 43 for 25 years and completed a 10 year restoration project last year.

 

On the two Bruckmann built boats I have experience with I found the build 
quality to be quite good.  After touching almost every square foot of the 43 
during the restoration the fit and finish seemed to be better than many 
similarly marketed boats.

 

The 43's issues that needed attention during our restoration project were not 
so bad given it was raced and sailed hard for 40 years.  Even the British Navy, 
back in +-1800 expected their ships to require significant work after only 18 - 
24 months of service.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle

(To see pictures of a Bruckmann interior, search 1971 C 43-1 on Boat Trader's 
website.)

 

 

  _  

From: j...@dellabarba.com   mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> >
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2024 6:56 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: 'Martin DeYoung' mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior 

 

Bruckman would be a good thing, right?

I can’t believe someone hauled that boat to a lake about 12 miles long, but 
they did.

Joe

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2024 6:29 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

 

Any chance this 1970 35 was built at the Bruckmann custom shop?  Some of the 
details appear similar to the 70's era 43s.

 

The 43s were built with a teak veneer over the plywood bulkhead.  Calypso's 
(nee Arieto) original owner ordered the bulkheads to have white paint added 
over the teak veneer. (one rumor held it was to better see mosquitoes)

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43-1

Port Ludlow/Seattle

  _  

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2024 3:18 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior 

 

Joe, 

 

This must be a very early 35.  It's listed as a 1970.  I found what may be it 
in the USCG vessel search under Vessel Number 527443 but no hull number is 
shown.

 

It is quite different from any 35 I've ever seen.  The cabinetry is very 
different.  There are no frames around the above seat storages or hanging 
locker accesses.  The bulkhead under the seats is wood, not fiberglass.  The 
port above the hanging locker is unusual.  The one in the head is not.  (Hull 
61 has one of those.)

 

Dorades?  Go figure.

 

No wrap around seat backs.

 

The V-berth bureau drawers lack finger holes.  The fiddles on 

Stus-List Re: Mast step fun

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Interesting -- thanks!

 

From: Nathan Post  
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 2:06 PM
To: Matthew Wolford 
Cc: Stus-List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: Mast step fun

 

It is where the stainless steel tube that supports the table on mounts into it.

Nathan

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Mast step fun

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

I thought I’d share this in case anyone has an interest.  On my 
42 Custom, I’ve been monitoring a small separation at the front end of the keel 
where it mates with the boat.  I may have mentioned this previously, but my 
boat has two “C smiles.”  For whatever reason (presumably to use an existing 
keel mold) my keel has a modification at the upper front edge: a wedge, or shoe 
(or whatever you want to call it) was fitted to fill space between the keel and 
the boat at the upper forward edge of the keel.  While investigating how the 
wedge is secured to the boat, we decided to tighten all the keel bolts.  
However, two of the bolts are located under the mast step, which had to be 
removed for access.  The mast step is a rectangular box made of aluminum that 
spans three stringers fore and aft.  In removing the mast step, we discovered: 
a) support for a head wall was constructed on top of the forward port corner of 
the mast step and had to be cut away, strongly indicating that the step has not 
been removed in 48 years; b) the weight of the mast on the mast step was being 
borne almost entirely by the middle stringer directly underneath the mast (not 
the other two stringers fore and aft); and c) the mast step has bent about 3/8” 
of an inch fore and aft, strongly indicating that the center stringer under the 
mast has compressed by that much over the years.  In addition, because the mast 
step evidently had not been removed previously, the two keel bolts located 
underneath the mast step had not been checked or tightened in 48 years.  All 
keel bolts have now been checked and tightened, some minor rot of the middle 
stringer is under repair, and the mast step is being modified with two holes 
for socket extensions so it no longer needs to be removed to tighten the two 
keel bolts underneath.  We considered replacing the aluminum mast step with 
stainless and re-setting it to spread the load more evenly across all three 
stringers (presumably the original intent), but the rig appears to be 
reasonably happy so we’re just modifying the old mast step as described above, 
repairing the middle stringer, and reinstalling.

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: opening port replacing fixed lenses on 1984 C

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Pete:

 

I replaced the fixed windows on my ’78 C 34 with Lewmar opening ports 
(roughly the same size and shape as the 70s vintage 33/34 oval windows).  The 
issue with opening windows is that they must lay flat to work correctly.  It 
took considerable effort to get this right on the 34 because the cabin top 
surface where the original windows were installed was not perfectly flat.  It 
was a great upgrade for hot days, but the more the surface curve (top to 
bottom/fore and aft), the more difficult it will be to install them correctly. 

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 12:06 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List opening port replacing fixed lenses on 1984 C

 

Over the years I’ve replaced the side fixed windows on my ’84 37 multiple 
times.  I’m considering glassing over where the lenses sit and installing 
opening ports.  Probably two on each side.

 

I’m reaching out to the group to see who has tackled this project and are there 
suggestions on how to best finish the inside to make it look decent.  

 

Thanks,

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I installed Groco filters on my 34 and 42 Custom.  Better than sucking a 
plastic bag or weeds into your system. 

 

From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2024 9:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

 

Hello everyone, 

 

I was wondering whether anyone has installed a water intake filter system for 
the raw water intake on an atomic 4.  Specifically, the water thru haul is 
pretty close to the water pump hook up and any filter that is not an inline 
filter would require some right angles on the plumbing. 

 

Thanks.   

 




Glen Eddie



Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation


Tel:   416-777-5357


Fax:   1-888-812-2557



ged...@torkinmanes.com  


VCard  


Torkin Manes LLP


Barristers & Solicitors


Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer


151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7


torkinmanes.com  


An international member of Ally Law
​
​This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

 

 

Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others 
authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby notified 
that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in relation of the 
contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.

This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been 
automatically archived by Mimecast Ltd, an innovator in Software as a Service 
(SaaS) for business. Providing a safer and more useful place for your human 
generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and compliance. To find 
out more Click Here  .

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Understanding Polars

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Dennis.  How did you arrive at 10 miles.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2024, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>   Personally, I think sailing to polars can be challenging.  I prefer to use 
> VMG.  VMG rules for windward/leeward race courses!  Bear with me on this.
> 
> First, a couple of definitions used by Touche's Nexus instrument system.
> 
> Velocity - speed and course
> VMG - velocity made good wind based.  The velocity directly upwind or 
> downwind.
> WCV - waypoint closure velocity.  The velocity made closing on the set 
> waypoint
> 
> Okay, if your instrument calculates VMG (wind based), simply steer the boat 
> to maximize VMG.  Done!
> 
> If your instruments do not calculate VMG (wind based), here's how to get your 
> GPS to closely approximate it.  First, many GPS systems show VMG which is 
> actually WCV when a waypoint is set.  If you set the upwind (or downwind) 
> mark as the waypoint, WCV will incur more error as you approach the layline.  
> Visualize it.  As you approach the layline, your WCV will decrease to zero as 
> you near 90 degrees to your course to the mark.  (If you overstand, WCV will 
> turn negative as you've sailed past your mark.)
> 
> So, set a waypoint 10 miles directly upwind or downwind of the race mark.  
> Now your GPS WCV will closely approximate VMG (wind based).  Steer to 
> maximize WCV and your course(s) to the mark will be optimized.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

That is a cool approach, but if I understand how it was done, the weak link 
IMHO is that tapped aluminum is holding the new winch.

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2024 2:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

 

Hey David,  

That's cool.  You made an adapter plate, so you didn't change the holes through 
the deck.  That's a cool trick. 

  

Thanks, 

Chuck S 

  

  

On 03/23/2024 2:33 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

When I swapped an old non-self tailing winch with a new Harken winch, I decided 
I wanted to re-use the holes from the previous winch.  So I bought a circular 
aluminum plate the size of the winch base, drilled holes through it in the 
pattern of the original winch, then drilled and tapped holes to match the new 
winch base to secure the new winch base.  I am happy with the result.  Dave 

 

S/V Aries 

1990 C 34+ 

New London, CT 








On Mar 22, 2024, at 8:23 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on my 
C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. 
Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to fill 
old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or plywood backing 
plates. 

Any other hints and tips? 

Thanks, Dean 
BarraWind 
1980 C 34 
Halifax, NS 


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks for your help. 
Stu 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks for your help. 
Stu 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Dean:

The four winches I replaced were not "similar" in terms of make/size, 
but the job probably is.  Mine was made more complicated because the winches 
were located near the mast where C had installed decorative teak decking 
pieces.  I figured I'd just remove the teak pieces, fill the holes, reinstall 
the teak, etc., but nay nay.  I don't know how the teak decking pieces were 
installed (a combination of machine bolts and something else), but it became 
clear that taking them off would be destructive.  On the other hand, the 
problem with filling the old holes with epoxy while the teak pieces were in 
place is that epoxy would be able to escape between the deck surface and the 
teak deck pieces when epoxy was poured into the holes.  The solution I came up 
with was wooden dowels.  First I cleaned out the old holes by drilling them 
slightly larger.  Then I cut dowel pieces a little longer than the hole depth 
(including the teak pieces), soaked them in West System, and tapped them in 
place from the deck (followed by teak plugs).  After they set up, I trimmed the 
excess dowel from inside.  Seems to have worked fine.

If you don't have a complicated situation like mine, I suggest just 
cleaning up the old holes, taping them off underneath, and filling with West 
System.  Use the Slow hardner.  Good luck!

Matt
C 42 Custom   

-Original Message-
From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2024 8:24 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Hints on swapping winches?

I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on my 
C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. 
Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to fill 
old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or plywood backing 
plates.

Any other hints and tips?

Thanks, Dean
BarraWind
1980 C 34
Halifax, NS 

 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

If you’re talking about replacing balsa core, West System and colloidal silica.

 

From: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 12:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

 

Thanks guys.  I'm having the dripless replaced and it does seem fine but the 
fairing around the strut doesn't seem to hold up over time.  

 

What would you fill the area around strut with?

 

 

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 10:37 AM, Novabraid via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Peter:

 

Don’t know about your boat, but I can’t imagine it’s just 
screwed in.  On my boat, the strut was through-bolted with a backing plate, but 
the hull was cored at this location.  The result was water infiltration into 
the core (not just at that limited location – water travels) and weakened strut 
support.  This was one of the many core issues we repaired.

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 10:27 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

 

I have a different boat, but the strut is through bolted to a very thick 
backing plate with four very large bolts, maybe 3/8".  I also believe the hull 
is about an inch thick at that point.  I encourage you to look further.  You 
may have to remove the floor and/or box. 

  

Chuck S 

On 03/03/2024 8:08 PM EST Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

Does any know how the strut on an 84 Landfall 35 is affixed.  I'm wondering if 
there is a backing plate because if so there is no access to that part of the 
hull as they installed the floor and box over it.  Or is it just screwed in? 

  

That part of the hull doesnt seem partcularly thick or strong.  I'm wondering 
if glassing over it to re-enforce it is a possibility?? 

  

Thanks in advance! 

  

Peter Cowenhoven 

1984 Landfall 35 

Clinton, CT 

  

  

  

  

 

  

 

  

 

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

  

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks for your help. 
Stu 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

The name and email address I sent earlier was for the engineered Winchmate product.  My primary winches are so big the drums had to be machined and threaded to accept the product (about $300 per drum).  They work great.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 26, 2024, at 11:14 AM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List  wrote:I think most of the responders are confusing Barton's "Wincher" for the Winchmate product. These are very different products. The Wincher is a rubber jammer that slides over the top of the winch and is essentially useless, especially for large winches like Rick's. The Winchmate is a highly engineered, machined conversion kit that actually transforms your non self-tailing winch to a proper self-tailing winch. The price always hovered around $500 USD per winch, making them a financially viable alternative to replacing your winches. However, from my understanding, the Winchmate was a one-man operation that never took off (reasons unclear). Two years ago, I contacted them to order the Winchmate for our big Barients but never heard back. I assume that the one-man shop has closed for good. Meaning there really is no good method for converting your big winches to self-tailing anymore. Historically, WestMarine (WorstMarine) has held a spring sale every year on Lewmar winches. Any Lewmar winch is buy one, get one free. In 2022, we swapped out our primaries and secondaries for $3300 total. That is a great price. I'm not sure if they are still offering this sale but I would start looking now.On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 10:23 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:I think Barton makes an equivalent product.  Barton Wincher.--Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 7:23 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:I was sort of planning to use part of this year’s tax refund to upgrade the Barient 32 primaries on Imzadi to selftailers using Winchmate conversion kits. The converted winches I’ve seen on other boats were very good, and selftailers would make single handing a lot easier, but I’ve always seemed to have other priorities in the past. But when I went to the website I had bookmarked to check the current cost and lead time, I find the website is down. A search turned up several sites with recommendations for the conversion kits, and a Winchmate Facebook page that doesn’t seem to have any recent information on it. Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business? Or maybe has a new owner? Contact information? Or can recommend a source for these (or equivalent) conversion kits? Any information would be appreciated. Rick BrassImzadi  C 38 mk2 #47la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225Washington, NC Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu-- Fair winds,Dr. Charlotte Freeland &  Dr. Riley AndersonSV Freight TrainOld Saybrook, CT USA
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Rick:

 

When I converted my primaries I communicated with the owner of Winchmate.
His name is David Leitch, and his e-mail address was: winchm...@yahoo.com
  .  Don't know if he's still in business.  Good
luck!

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2024 8:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?

 

I was sort of planning to use part of this year's tax refund to upgrade the
Barient 32 primaries on Imzadi to selftailers using Winchmate conversion
kits. The converted winches I've seen on other boats were very good, and
selftailers would make single handing a lot easier, but I've always seemed
to have other priorities in the past.

 

But when I went to the website I had bookmarked to check the current cost
and lead time, I find the website is down. A search turned up several sites
with recommendations for the conversion kits, and a Winchmate Facebook page
that doesn't seem to have any recent information on it.

 

Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business? Or maybe has a new
owner? Contact information? Or can recommend a source for these (or
equivalent) conversion kits?

 

Any information would be appreciated.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Stu:

 

It occurred to me the bounce back issue earlier today may have 
been my failure to trim.  Sorry.

 

Matt

 

From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 7:26 PM
To: 'Richard Bush' ; 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

Richard:

 

At first I thought the same thing.  The charger is a NewMar three stage smart 
charger, and I thought perhaps the setting was wrong for the new batteries.  I 
contacted NewMar and described the problem.  The technician quickly diagnosed 
the likely issue based on my description and the age of the unit.  He also 
explained that repair/refurbishment would cost about half the price of a new 
unit if I was interested, so I sent it in.  NewMar later confirmed what failed 
(I forget now what it was), which caused it to stop charging.  NewMar 
refurbished it like new, and sent it back in a reasonable amount of time.  That 
was in 2022, and I’ve had no issues since.

 

Matt

 

P.S.  I sent the above note this afternoon, and it was bounced back for being 
too large – even after Stu’s review.  Trying again.

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Richard:

 

At first I thought the same thing.  The charger is a NewMar three stage smart 
charger, and I thought perhaps the setting was wrong for the new batteries.  I 
contacted NewMar and described the problem.  The technician quickly diagnosed 
the likely issue based on my description and the age of the unit.  He also 
explained that repair/refurbishment would cost about half the price of a new 
unit if I was interested, so I sent it in.  NewMar later confirmed what failed 
(I forget now what it was), which caused it to stop charging.  NewMar 
refurbished it like new, and sent it back in a reasonable amount of time.  That 
was in 2022, and I’ve had no issues since.

 

Matt

 

P.S.  I sent the above note this afternoon, and it was bounced back for being 
too large – even after Stu’s review.  Trying again.

 

 

From: Richard Bush  
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 2:29 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

Matt, that sure sounds suspicious, are you sure it was only coincidence?

 

Richard

1985 C 37 Ohio River, Mile 596

 

 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 02:15:53 PM EST, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

I replaced my lead acid batteries with AGM about two years ago.  Shortly after 
I installed them, my battery charger coincidentally went bad, and I was not 
charging at the dock (despite thinking I was).  I discovered the problem as I 
was preparing for a 15-hour delivery, and initially believed the problem must 
be the new batteries.  It took my 10-amp car battery charger over 12 hours to 
fully charge my two house batteries before we took off.

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> 
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 12:57 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

I’ll add (from experience) that  if you are daysailing and otherwise plugged in 
at the dock, you can (unwittingly) do without an alternator for quite some time 
as well….

 

Dave 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Feb 20, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Joe, thanks for the reassurance on the group 27's! That's what I have and I 
have been worried that I am missing out on something with my old batteries, but 
we are always tied to a dock as you describe, so I am good ---(for now)!

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:57:31 AM EST, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

If you are primarily going dock to dock and don’t care about being anchored out 
or underway for days, the old standard two group 27 batteries will do just 
fine, you are only dealing with hours of no engine, not days.

I would still go AGM just because I hate wet batteries. We had one crack open 
in a hurricane and the extra-special smell was not appreciated.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2024 1:58 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

Hi Brian, 

I watched hundreds of videos installing lithium battery systems in sailboats 
and also in RVs.  I found MarineHowTo.com had a link to Victron diagrams and 
there are many many videos describing each Victron module on YouTube. 

  

I didn't go very deep into solar panels, which is probably where I'd start if 
our boat was on a mooring.   

  

My situation is different.  

Our boat is in a slip with 30amp power available and we enjoy air conditioning, 
no extra charge.  I couldn't build a lithium/solar system large enough to 
support air conditioning so it lost a lot of attraction.  We mostly daysail and 
return to the slip.  When we cruise, my wife prefers a marina over anchoring 
out, where they have a pool, so we take a slip at a marina and plug in.   We 
enjoy walking strange towns and learning the history and finding good 
restaurants and live music and meeting new people.  It's all part of the 
adventure of cruising. 

  

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis 

On 02/16/2024 6:03 AM EST nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

Chuck, Bill and any others:

 

I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs.  Was hoping to 
make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a 
potential replacement.  Some people really lik

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I replaced my lead acid batteries with AGM about two years ago.  Shortly after 
I installed them, my battery charger coincidentally went bad, and I was not 
charging at the dock (despite thinking I was).  I discovered the problem as I 
was preparing for a 15-hour delivery, and initially believed the problem must 
be the new batteries.  It took my 10-amp car battery charger over 12 hours to 
fully charge my two house batteries before we took off.

 

Matt

C 42 Custom

 

From: Dave S via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 12:57 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

I’ll add (from experience) that  if you are daysailing and otherwise plugged in 
at the dock, you can (unwittingly) do without an alternator for quite some time 
as well….

 

Dave 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Feb 20, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Joe, thanks for the reassurance on the group 27's! That's what I have and I 
have been worried that I am missing out on something with my old batteries, but 
we are always tied to a dock as you describe, so I am good ---(for now)!

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:57:31 AM EST, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

If you are primarily going dock to dock and don’t care about being anchored out 
or underway for days, the old standard two group 27 batteries will do just 
fine, you are only dealing with hours of no engine, not days.

I would still go AGM just because I hate wet batteries. We had one crack open 
in a hurricane and the extra-special smell was not appreciated.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2024 1:58 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM

 

Hi Brian, 

I watched hundreds of videos installing lithium battery systems in sailboats 
and also in RVs.  I found MarineHowTo.com had a link to Victron diagrams and 
there are many many videos describing each Victron module on YouTube. 

  

I didn't go very deep into solar panels, which is probably where I'd start if 
our boat was on a mooring.   

  

My situation is different.  

Our boat is in a slip with 30amp power available and we enjoy air conditioning, 
no extra charge.  I couldn't build a lithium/solar system large enough to 
support air conditioning so it lost a lot of attraction.  We mostly daysail and 
return to the slip.  When we cruise, my wife prefers a marina over anchoring 
out, where they have a pool, so we take a slip at a marina and plug in.   We 
enjoy walking strange towns and learning the history and finding good 
restaurants and live music and meeting new people.  It's all part of the 
adventure of cruising. 

  

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis 

On 02/16/2024 6:03 AM EST nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

Chuck, Bill and any others:

 

I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs.  Was hoping to 
make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a 
potential replacement.  Some people really like AGM, but my understanding is 
they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a mooring so cannot just 
plug in at the end of the day. 

 

Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries?  So far I 
have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How To” site, 
and Ocean Planet. 

 

I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any suggestions 
there as well.  Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” site. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM

 

Hey Bill, 

  

I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs.  I spent at least 
40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium batteries 
can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs.  But I don't have room on my 
boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all the modules and 
cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a lithium project way 
over my budget.   I am installing a Victron shunt to read my power useage and 
monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each battery, so I can 
always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted.

  

I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, 
chargers and coffee maker.   

  

Curious about your 

Stus-List Re: Galley sink drain C 30 Mk1

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

The sink drain in my galley (C 42 Custom) discharges through a thru-hull 
directly below the sink.  The sink in the head is configured the same way.  If 
I were to do it over, I might offset the thru-hulls a bit so the hoses wouldn’t 
interfere with storage as they do now.  

 

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2024 7:16 AM
To: Alexander Netherton via CnC-List 
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Galley sink drain C 30 Mk1

 

Mine runs to a through hull just slightly right (looking into the locker) of 
directly below the sink.
The downside to this, is that it is in the way when accessing the dip stick for 
the 2QM engine and
the exhaust drain for winterizing.  I re-routed the down route a bit to give me 
more space.

I wouldn't really see an issue in routing to the cockpit drain, it is nearby 
and handy, and likely
resolves some of the access issues above.



Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C.

On 2024-02-08 18:38, Alexander Netherton via CnC-List wrote:

Hello All  

I have a C 30 Mk 1, a fine old boat that has a history of different owners.  
Recently, we had a very cold snap with temperatures hitting the – 12to – 16 
range. A good stress test for the boat’s plumbing for sure.  To make a long 
story short, I need to know how the galley sink drainage ought to be configured 
on this boat.  You can read more for detail, or simply respond.  All 
information will be appreciated. 

….  In the aftermath of the cold snap, I found that there was some seepage from 
the galley sink.  And there I found an odd configuration. The 1.5-inch drain 
was stepped down to a 1-inch diameter hose that ran into the drainage for the 
cockpit.  There a Y fitting was screwed into the seacock (a 1.5-inch diameter) 
that allowed the 1-inch drainage from the sink to drain into that seacock.  The 
lip onto which the 1-inch sink drain line attached itself was pitifully 
short—about 1 inch, and below the water line. Not very safe and a configuration 
that can not fully drain the sink. 

 

The upshot is that I have to change the galley sink drainage system. The C 30 
Mk 1 owners manual gives no details on this—but it does show that the cockpit 
and galley sink drainage are separate systems.  The local chandlery folk advise 
me to install a new  drainage thru-hull (with a gate valve) between the bottom 
of the sink and the waterline, to ensure that it drains properly.   But this is 
a wide margin leaving me without a precise idea of where to put the thru-hull. 
And I am not sure whether I need an elbow under the sink--or how that ought to 
be configured.

 

Can anyone tell me how the gally sink drainage was handled by C at the 
outset. Are there any specs or design principles that I could use to help me 
pinpoint these positions or design the new system?  

Your help will be appreciated. 

 

Best,  Alex Netherton

Dulcibella, Nanaimo BC

  





Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 66

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I’d be very concerned about wet core below the water line on a boat that age.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2024, at 6:17 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List  wrote:It been for sale for a long timeJoel Delamirande
www.jdroofing.caOn Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 6:01 PM John McCrea via CnC-List  wrote:An amazing boat!

https://www.berthoninternational.com/yacht-sales-brokerage/yachts-for-sale/c-c-66-classic-cruiser-racer-phantom/?fbclid=IwAR1irExXpYusoRn5xUBQHiDEmqzmyrERCsB4M3Tio6KGWC9tYToEP0AdsVg_aem_Ac9padFR6qIGBFwMyRwnXMEsNd-DB6fTpAkFP5eGOOlJIZ0SJjYDKZvigftdzZHKy9w
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: going all pex

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Someone else on the list went with pex and circulated photos a couple years 
ago.  Very professional-looking.  I’m sticking with hose (for now) because it 
bends easily where needed.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2024 11:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List going all pex

 

I have been going nuts with fresh water leaks lately. It seems like the ½” hose 
has lost its flexibility over the decades, it is now rock hard. I can’t get it 
off any barb, I have to cut it off and the hose is so stiff I can’t get a 
leak-free connection anymore. I got out a spare role to replace it and that 
stuff too is about as flexible as iron pipe, I guess I saving it for 30 years 
was not cost-effective ☹ 

I never though of ½’ water hose as an expense before, but the stuff is 
expensive now too! I think it is over $3/ft at West Marine and $1/foot off 
Amazon for Chinese chemical-smelling hose. Certainly no one plumbing a house is 
putting up with this, so I asked and the hardware store clerk turned me on to 
PEX tubing. It is cheap, like $0.50 a foot, and is strong enough to freeze and 
not burst. I got the special crimp tool and stainless crimp bands off Amazon 
for $25 or so and a 12-pack of PEX to NPT fittings. I think it is time for all 
the old hose to go.

Joe

Coquina

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Rugby shirts

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I'll be in for a few.  I personally like a heavier rugby shirt.

-Original Message-
From: Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2024 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Motion Designs Limited 
Subject: Stus-List C Rugby shirts

8 oz or 12 oz Rugby Shirts

Lighter is a little cheaper but I’m thinking more comfort ?

JKC


www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Richard:

 

When you spoke with Rob, did you ask if he knows the diameter/thread size of 
the top of the rudder post for that boat?  He used to have a lot of specs on 
boats (including build files, which are no longer available).

 

In any event, from prior e-mail it sounded like some of the threads in the 
collar you have are not stripped.  Given that you’re on the hard, I suggest 
blocking the rudder in place (wood blocks and a scissor jack works well for 
this) and taking the collar to a machine shop as many have advised.  The shop 
will be able to quickly determine the size/thread.   Bill guessed 1 5/8" 13 
TPI, but taking the collar with you is best.  If you’re interested in ordering 
from McMaster-Carr instead of having one fabricated and do not wish to ask a 
machine shop for sizing, see if there is an industrial fastener supply (like 
Fastenal) anywhere nearby.  They sell big nuts/bolts and should be able to tell 
you the size.  I would also inspect the top of the internal bushing housing 
where the quadrant likely hit to ensure no damage was done.

 

Relatively easy fix, but some monkeying around.  Good luck!

 

Matt

 

From: Richard Bush  
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2023 3:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: virb...@cogeco.ca; Matthew Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

 

To follow Up; I called Rob at South Shore; he was very patient and listened to 
my tale of woe; he said that there was no "off the shelf" part for this collar 
and that my best bet would be to have a local machine shop fabricate one; I 
have looked at the list on McMaster-Carr (sent by Chris Reidinger) and I am not 
sure if any of those would be a replacement or not, but dsurely something in 
there should be a place to start...any thought ? Thanks again  

 

Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Saturday, December 9, 2023 at 09:53:00 AM EST, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List 
< <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 

 

I suggest starting there.  If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to suggest 
an alternate source.

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Yes they are.

 

Barry McKee

 

C 29 “Discovery II”

Bronte, ON

 

From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [ <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM
To: Richard Bush
Cc: Stus-List; Matthew Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

 

Is South Shore Yachts still in business?

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush < <mailto:bushma...@aol.com> 
bushma...@aol.com> wrote:



Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a chrome 
"collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder post which is 
also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder post and sits on a 
delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are two set screws in the 
collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The rudder pivots on this assembly 
when steering the boat.  

 

In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to 
loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the 
threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new 
collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no 
markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos.

 

For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining 
threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident that 
this will work until I can identify and order the new collar. 

 

So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's "good 
case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the "bad case" 
scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but will report back 
on progress.  I would have thought the C used the same assembly for all of 
the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but maybe not...;

 

If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please send 
them on...Thank you to everyone! 

 

Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 

 

I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off 
and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to 
have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

 

On Thu, Dec 7, 2

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I suggest starting there.  If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to suggest an alternate source.Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List  wrote:Yes they are. Barry McKee C 29 “Discovery II”Bronte, ON From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: 9-Dec-23 8:24 AMTo: Richard BushCc: Stus-List; Matthew WolfordSubject: Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly Is South Shore Yachts still in business? Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush  wrote:Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat.   In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos. For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar.  So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the "bad case" scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but will report back on progress.  I would have thought the C used the same assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but maybe not...; If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please send them on...Thank you to everyone!  RichardRichard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255  On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:   I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you  Bill ColemanErie PA  On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable?   We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!   Richard1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...  Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Is South Shore Yachts still in business?Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush  wrote:Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat.  In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos.For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar. So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the "bad case" scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but will report back on progress.  I would have thought the C used the same assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but maybe not...;If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please send them on...Thank you to everyone! RichardRichard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255






On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:



I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you Bill ColemanErie PAOn Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List  wrote:Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable? We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!  Richard1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

The collective wisdom appears to be the deck fitting.  On my 42, the post is supported at the deck by two bronze rollers (I’ve discussed the design previously).  A pin goes through the post and the rollers are held in place with nuts on each end.  I had a nut come off several years ago, which nearly caused a catastrophic failure.  Inspect the deck fitting.Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 7, 2023, at 3:38 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you Bill ColemanErie PAOn Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List  wrote:Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable? We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!  Richard1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Sounds like the quadrant may have prevented it from falling out.  How is it 
supported at the deck?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 7, 2023, at 3:15 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; 
> my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September 
> for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the 
> rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; 
> the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by 
> moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or 
> suggests about what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to 
> be done to make the rudder usable? 
> 
> 
> We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide 
> more information if anyone has questions...Thanks! 
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Question and info

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

Hope everyone is doing well.

 

I have a question and a small project some of you may find
of interest.  First, the question: does anyone know of a good source for
stainless spiral retaining clips for winches (to hold the drum down)?  I
have some Merriman Holbrook winches with missing retaining clips that have a
1.25 inch ID and 1.5 inch OD.  McMaster Carr sells them, but not the right
size.  I have also seen some of the other style clips (that use a spanner
wrench), but I like the spiral style better.  Please advise if you are aware
of a good source for these.

 

Second, I am in the middle of a relatively minor maintenance
project some of you may find of interest.  Although I usually leave my mast
up while the boat is winter-stored on the hard, this year I took it down to
get access under the mast step for a keel-related issue this spring.  My
mast is little over 60 feet long and weighs about 700 pounds, and I had the
crane lay it on four saw horses (rated at about 1250 lbs per pair) for
winter storage.  Last week we had a wind storm, and I checked on the mast to
make sure everything was okay.  It was not okay.  Either the wind pushed the
mast over (including the saw horses) or someone hit one or more of the saw
horses with a car.  I believe it was the former, as all four saw horses were
laying on their sides, and the mast was on the ground.  I haven't had the
time to comprehensively inspect for damage, but on cursory review the mast
appears to be no worse for the wear.  In hindsight, and assuming the wind
pushed it over, I wish I would have used only two saw horses.  Distributing
the 700 or so pounds over four saw horses likely made it easier for the wind
to knock it over.

 

I do not usually store the mast on saw horses and plan to
never do so again.  Instead, the yacht club where I keep the boat has large
styrofoam blocks for winter mast storage.  However, I came out of the water
late this year, and all the blocks were taken.  After the recent saw horse
incident, I decided to buy my own styrofoam blocks.  There is a place in
Erie that sells them (expanded polystyrene, or EPS), and the sales rep asked
what density I wanted.  I explained what I am using them for, and he said
the lightest density (1 lb. per cubic foot) should work fine.  I wanted to
order three blocks but was required to order a minimum of four (around $30
apiece).  When I got them down to the yacht club, it was obvious that the
ones owned by the club are of a higher density.  (I'm guessing 2 lbs. pcf.)
Nevertheless, the ones I bought should work fine.  I also noticed, however,
that my lighter density blocks damage much more easily than the heavier
ones.  For example, while moving a block in place, a stay from the mast next
to mine cut into the block like a hot knife through butter.  This was not
good, and I can't exchange my foam blocks for blocks with higher density, so
I decided to paint my new blocks with that lobster buoy paint that was the
topic of an e-mail string a little while back.  I ordered a gallon of yellow
buoy paint so my blocks will be distinguishable and clearly visible.  While
placing the order, I called the retailer (Hamilton Marine) and asked about
coverage.  The rep didn't know.  (As it turns out, it's a little less than a
half-gallon to put two coats on one of my foam blocks.)  Curiously, when I
asked about coverage, the rep said they get the paint from True Value (a
hardware chain).  I don't know what product True Value sells that is the
same as lobster buoy paint, but it would be helpful to figure this out and
buy locally.  In any event, I have now covered two blocks with two coats of
paint and will be using them later this week for mast storage.  I'm hoping
the yellow buoy paint will help them stand up to abuse.  I'll let you know
how it goes.

 

Matt

C 42 Custom   

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

As a follow-up, I should have noted that I also sent the original handrails to 
White Water for additional reference.  The purpose of the bolt hole pattern is 
to establish the bend.  The stainless rails for my two projects came pre-bent.  
You can’t just bend them in place during installation like you can do with 
wood.  The stainless is too rigid.

 

From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2023 7:26 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'Peter W.' ; Matthew Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

 

Peter:

 

I replaced the handrails on my 34, and subsequently on my 42 Custom, with 
stainless.  In my case, I removed the old handrails, laid out pieces of thick 
paper over the bolt holes (totally flat, taped in place), and made patterns of 
the holes.  The paper patterns were then rolled up and shipped to White Wate 
Marine (Port Huron, MI).  The rails on my 34 came with bolts welded on.  Most 
fit, but a few required a little adjustment (filling/drilling).  The rail for 
my 42 came with nuts welded in place, so the bolts are installed from inside 
the boat.  Again, most of the bolt holes lined up, but a few needed adjustment. 
 On the 42 replacement, we discovered that welding distorted the threads on a 
few of the nuts, so we ran a tap through each one to resolve the issue.  
Overall, White Water does nice work, and I greatly prefer stainless handrails.

 

https://whitewatermarineinc.com/

 

Matt

1976 C 42 Custom

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2023 8:57 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Peter W. mailto:typhoonpe...@gmail.com> >; Nathan 
Post mailto:nathan8...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

 




Peter,

 

I replaced the teak rails with stainless steel with three attachment points 
which Kato Marine https://www.katomarine.com/about.htm  in 2020.  They made 
custom length for me and shipped so it was pretty easy.  They also make a great 
tieoff point for a lanyard when going up to the mast if I don't have jack lines 
rigged and it gets a bit rough on a day sail. I had them put the mounting 
points at the lengths required for the teak rail although there are fewer so 
that they would align with some of the existing the holes at each end and in 
the middle.  I fiberglassed over the other holes during a full deck refit and 
repaint that I did at the same time. If you aren't doing that then you could 
probably just put a bolt and washer through the old holes you don't need with 
some bed-it tape to seal it. Love the stainless steel and it is no maintenance. 
While the stainless steel was built straight, it was flexible enough to bend to 
match the deck curve as I installed it. Some say it gets hot in the sun but at 
least here in NE I haven't had a problem with it getting too hot to touch.

 

Nathan

S/V Wisper

1981 C 34

 

On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 8:28 PM Peter W. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
with the existing holes in the deck.

Thanks,

Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C 30MKII
Irvington, Va.
Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Peter:

 

I replaced the handrails on my 34, and subsequently on my 42 Custom, with 
stainless.  In my case, I removed the old handrails, laid out pieces of thick 
paper over the bolt holes (totally flat, taped in place), and made patterns of 
the holes.  The paper patterns were then rolled up and shipped to White Wate 
Marine (Port Huron, MI).  The rails on my 34 came with bolts welded on.  Most 
fit, but a few required a little adjustment (filling/drilling).  The rail for 
my 42 came with nuts welded in place, so the bolts are installed from inside 
the boat.  Again, most of the bolt holes lined up, but a few needed adjustment. 
 On the 42 replacement, we discovered that welding distorted the threads on a 
few of the nuts, so we ran a tap through each one to resolve the issue.  
Overall, White Water does nice work, and I greatly prefer stainless handrails.

 

https://whitewatermarineinc.com/

 

Matt

1976 C 42 Custom

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2023 8:57 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter W. ; Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

 




Peter,

 

I replaced the teak rails with stainless steel with three attachment points 
which Kato Marine https://www.katomarine.com/about.htm  in 2020.  They made 
custom length for me and shipped so it was pretty easy.  They also make a great 
tieoff point for a lanyard when going up to the mast if I don't have jack lines 
rigged and it gets a bit rough on a day sail. I had them put the mounting 
points at the lengths required for the teak rail although there are fewer so 
that they would align with some of the existing the holes at each end and in 
the middle.  I fiberglassed over the other holes during a full deck refit and 
repaint that I did at the same time. If you aren't doing that then you could 
probably just put a bolt and washer through the old holes you don't need with 
some bed-it tape to seal it. Love the stainless steel and it is no maintenance. 
While the stainless steel was built straight, it was flexible enough to bend to 
match the deck curve as I installed it. Some say it gets hot in the sun but at 
least here in NE I haven't had a problem with it getting too hot to touch.

 

Nathan

S/V Wisper

1981 C 34

 

On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 8:28 PM Peter W. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
with the existing holes in the deck.

Thanks,

Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C 30MKII
Irvington, Va.
Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Re: Stus-List Replacement Spreader

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Call South Shore

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 18, 2018, at 10:21 PM, Jamie Stewart via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1980 C 36, and last weekend found that the lower port side 
> spreader was damaged when the mast was taken down last fall.  Does anyone 
> know who made the spreaders for C at that time, or where I can find a 
> replacement.  Any help appreciated.
>  
> Jamie Stewart
> Seaquel
> Lake Champlain, VT
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I like my Hella.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2018, at 11:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor 
> light to an LED.
> On my C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
> units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want 
> to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.
> 
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does 
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
> 
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
> hook with an LED.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Choice of sealant for these jobs?

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I use 4200 for sealing most things attached to the deck, although I’m becoming 
a believer in butyl tape.  I suggest not using 5200 for anything you don’t want 
damaged if you ever need to remove it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2018, at 12:01 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Interestingly, we have teak decking in the cockpit on our 1994 C 37/40+.  
> When we had it refinished (including re-caulking), the guy who did it used 
> SIS 440.  More info can be found here:  
> http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4=132018488074=10035=1=0=1337444586000=0
> 
> I'm surprised that the butyl rubber is not working for the hatch/frame point. 
>  What is happening specifically, and what type of butyl tape are you using?  
> Have you tried Bed-It Butyl Tape (by far the best in my experience).
> 
> Best of luck, 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: TL ROSS via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: TL ROSS 
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 12:24 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Choice of sealant for these jobs?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> What sealant would you choose for these two jobs ? 
> 
> 1 shoring up the seal between the wood frame and the deck on us front hatch ? 
> I can’t get the wood frame off so I’m just going to have to take off the 
> extra old sealant stuff off that I can and try to make a good new seal around 
> the outside. 
> 
> 2. Sealing the cast aluminum hatch to the wood frame - butyl is no good! 
> 
> C Mk 1. 
> 
> Thanks! 
> 
> -- 
> Tracy Ross
> tracylynnr...@gmail.com
> M: 416-770-8571 (TLR1)
> -- 
> Tracy Ross
> tracylynnr...@gmail.com
> M: 416-770-8571 (TLR1)
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail water drain

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

My 34 (previous boat) had deck scuppers as Bill described.  The port one was 
routed in the compartment behind the fuses.  Stupid in my view.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 11, 2018, at 12:15 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for all those who posted. I never even thought of using a wick. 
> Sometimes when you are out on your boat you tend to over think a problem.
> 
> I do have hardware that is leaking. In the spring/summer I am going to rebed 
> them. Fun times!
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Christian
> Peer Gyth
> 1980 C 34 
> Saugatuck, CT
> 
> 
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List insurance

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

Agreed.  I suspect we’re paying for hurricane damage.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 3, 2018, at 3:50 PM, ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all
> 
>Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went up 
> 238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was 
> nothing on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got 
> raised as well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say 4% 
> or so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a 
> automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it 
> must stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 
> 40k, might have to start shopping, any feedback?
> 
> 
> 
>  Gary K  
> "Liberty"  1976  38'  MKll
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I should note that I'm also a fan of Garhauer. Guido helped customize my genoa 
cars to fit on my Merriman track, also at no additional charge.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2017, at 2:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Garhauer both used a “high” track and drilled a custom hole pattern when they 
> made the traveler for my 38 mk2. The first was to get clearance for the 
> traveler car in the channel on the bridgedeck, the second was to match the 
> hole pattern in the bridgedeck and backing plate that was used for the old 
> 70s vintage traveler. They also made custom turning blocks and cam cleats to 
> facilitate trimming the traveler from behind the helm when single handing. 
> And, BTW, the custom work was NC.
>  
> I agree with Joel, you can’t beat Garhauer. Works as well as Harken, and 
> costs C-notes instead of G-notes. Might be a pound heavier than the Harken – 
> but then it is a 15000 pound boat, so no biggie. And as cool as a Harken 
> windward sheeting car is, that car alone costs more than my entire Garhauer 
> traveler; and for that much, I can manage to release the leeward line when 
> tacking.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
> Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 9:16 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> I replaced the traveler on my 42 with a Schaefer traveler and am very happy 
> with it.  The track and car are robust, and the operation is smooth.  If 
> lining up old holes is an issue, you can call Schaefer and purchase a length 
> of anodized track that has not been drilled (I did this for the baby stay 
> track on my previous boat).  I took the old track and the replacement track 
> to a local machine shop, and for a nominal fee had the new track cut and 
> drilled to fit perfectly.
>  
> From: john sandford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 8:55 AM
> To: 'Jean-Guy Nadeau' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: john sandford
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> Hi J-G
> I am in the middle of replacing my traveller, car, etc.
> The boat came with a Kenyon track 1-1/4, and car with 4 rollers w. SS balls.
> End controls gave it a 3:1 ratio.
> Moving it was like driving over a bunch of potholes, with all the tires flat.
> Found a Harken 32mm track with 4” centres drilled, same as the Kenyon.
> The Harken track uses 5/16” FH screws, the Kenyon ¼”. So I have tapped out 
> the holes to suit.
> Also 4:1 HL Car, and ESP End controls.
> The original track was sitting in a 4” x 1-3/4 Aluminium channel, that 
> unfortunately was not wide enough for the new car.
> I have a strip of EDPE (?) anyway, white plastic 2” x 1” thick, that will go 
> under the new track, and gives the height needed for clearance.
> Also moving the cam cleats to the cabin top either side of the companionway.
> Should be done in a week or so. ( I had better be, im launching today.)
> Rgds
> John
> Landfall 38
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: Jean-Guy Nadeau [mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com] 
> Sent: May-01-17 11:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
> easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
> repair the existing system?
> 
> Cheers, J-G
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!