Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

You need a class D extinguisher, just like we used to have to carry for VW 
magnesium block engines in the FD

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2021 9:59 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

 

 I heard a distress call on the VHF from a boat on fire calling the Coast Guard 
because they could not put out the fire in their lithium battery bank.  I would 
certainly keep that issue in mind as it appears to merit special consideration 
in a marine environment.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Sep 14, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium batteries. I 
have to say I thought I knew this stuff and it seems massively confusing with a 
ton of directly contradictory information. One big issue seems that if the BMS 
disconnects for any reason, that will do a lot of damage to your alternator and 
perhaps other equipment too. Add to that my regulator does not have a specific 
lithium setting, I would need to get into the custom menus and try and make one.

What seems to be the best bet is just to connect the alternator to the start 
battery and use a DC-DC charger to charge the lithium bank. Some of them also 
take solar input, so that saves me buying a solar controller with lithium 
settings, which is something else I don’t currently have.

 

Joe

Coquina

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I had to replace my floorboards that I had used Polyurethane on.  They looked 
great at first, but the Polyurethane didn’t seal well and I developed 
delamination at the ends of the boards…

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ssjohnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2020 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

 

I second Dave's experience 

"

I did mine last winter and used a standard floor polyurethane: Minwax Fast 
Drying Polyurethane Satin. ?So far, so good. ?Dave"

 

I did have a perceived problem with the floor being slipperynot underfoot 
but with a cooler and rugs sliding around.  So I laid on a coat of Minwax, 
sprinkled ground walnut shells lightly on the wet minwax, and then, when dry, 
put another coat of minwax down... basically because it was a tad too rugged.   
 Nowthis hasn't been tested yet and I am not sure I like the way it looks 
but so much for percieved problems. 

 

Spencer Johnson

84 LF38 "Alegria " #165

On the hard in Waukegan.. with a leaking fuel tank :-(

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

Good luck, just realize that your boat value will be diminished.

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Yacht Broker

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 29, 2020 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Interior teak painting

 

Thanks to all who responded to my email regarding my interior teak water 
stains. It certainly would be a big job to remove them and then I would need to 
redo all the interior teak with a varnish, etc.  

 

The result would be spectacular (probably) but in the end I would have a pretty 
dark (but shiny!) cabin and be many boat bucks/hours poorer.

 

Thus I have decided to go with painting most of the interior teak and just 
leaving the teak 'trim' pieces in their original condition (or doing them with 
Epiphanes), including the the louvers in the cabin doors and cabinet doors, 
etc. This would lighten up and make the cabin look a lot more modern than 
redoing all the teak. My 1995 36 XL/kcb has a whole bunch of teak and teak 
looking plywood inside!!

 

I am thinking of some kind of semi-gloss interior paint that will stand up to 
inevitable water leaks with a color that is close to my Corinthian (?) counter 
tops. Joe Della Barba evidently used latex semi-gloss in a similar way for 
painting water stained teak in his boat's head with success. 

 

If anyone else who has done something similar or has considered it, I would 
appreciate your thoughts on my plans. 

 

My current thinking is to do the painting as planned and then decide what, if 
anything, to do with the remaining teak trim.

 

Also, I may paint the interior fiberglass (cabin 'ceiling') to freshen it up 
some as well--probably in the same color (off-white).

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C XL/kcb

 

 

 





-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: cenel...@aol.com   mailto:cenel...@aol.com> >
Sent: Thu, Feb 13, 2020 5:35 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

I was half expecting the paint not to stick, but it did. I sanded a bit and 
wiped down with acetone and on it went. Latex is easy to work with as a winter 
project, you can leave the heat on and not poison yourself or blow yourself up. 
Also very easy to touch up and cheap by boat standards. You do get a “brushed” 
look, if you want perfect mirror gloss you probably need a yacht type enamel.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 5:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: cenel...@aol.com  
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

 

You got me thinking that this may work for me—paint it white except for teak 
trim. That might eliminate the stains by painting over them and then just 
sand/varnish/cleanup the teak trim.

 

Do I need any surface prep on the teak (oiled ~8+ years ago) before I paint?

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com  

 

On Tuesday, February 11, 2020, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

Perhaps not what you want to hear, but I used gloss white latex porch paint in 
the head on water stained teak and it worked great.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 5:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: cenel...@aol.com  
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Interior teak water stains

 

My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago. 

 

I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
inside my 1995 C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
over the years--most of which are now sealed. 

 

My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are not 
like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on vertical 
surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make sanding them a 
formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be necessary. 

 

Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 

 

Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
several coats of varnish 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Are the two lights appropriate for anchoring per the COLREGs?

 

Neil Andersen 1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2020 11:29 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?

 

Aside from Joe's comment on bugs, I see value in a "deck level" anchor light.  
I have one similar to this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Pactrade-Marine-Navigation-Anchor-Splashproof/dp/B01KY4477I

 

I plug it into a 12 vdc receptacle at the helm station and hang it from the 
boom.  I also show the one at the mast top.

 

Advantages: a spare anchor light and it can be seen by drunken party barge 
drivers (is that redundant?).

 

Disadvantages:  bugs and more light in the cabin for sleeping.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

FoxFire
1982 C 32
Rock Hall, MD
Neil & Pat Andersen


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List October is here

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I am all in favor of contributing, but the link requires registering with 
PayPal which I will not do due to their numerous security breaches and archaic 
rules.  Are there other options?  I know there is a way to make a one-time 
payment which does not thrill me.

 

Neil Andersen, ASA 107, Yacht Broker

FoxFire, 1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD




 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Stu via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 2, 2019 5:40 PM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List October is here

 

Listers

 

For us Canadians, Thanksgiving celebrations are just a few days away. And it is 
time to get out your spooky costumes and go scare the neighbours.

 

But most important, October has been traditionally the fund raising month for 
this list and the Photo Album.  I am sure that every one on this list has 
benefited from the knowledge readily available from our members.  Maybe it even 
saved you mega-bucks and kept your yacht floating for a few more years.

 

The bills keep coming in and somebody has to pay them.  Fixed retirement income 
doesn’t cut it.  So I am asking all of our subscribers to help pay the bills 
and keep this list going and being one of the best on the internet.

 

Each and every contribution is greatly appreciated no matter the amount..  If 
you want to support this list and the Photo Album using PayPal – go to this 
link --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

Checks, money orders, etc., can be made payable to:

Stu Murray

33 Langton Rd

London, ON, Canada

N5V 2L9

 

Thanking everyone in advance 

Stu

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Here are the 3 for the 41 (different variants)

 

*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41
*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41-gp
*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41-limited-ed

 

Neil

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 8:29 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

 

Go to sailboatdata.com   and find your boat.  Most 
listing include a side view design drawing with the waterline shown.  You can 
eyeball an approximation from that.

 

I'd say Ken is close for many of our models with his 18" distance below 
waterline.

 

I have the drawing framed and on the wall in my home office.  I refer to it 
often.  It's a 50:1 scale drawing.  I've always used 18" for my 35-1.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 5:13 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Now you’ve got me wondering...

Since the mast step shoe is at cabin sole level on the transverse grid 
structure, it’s well above the keel sump and associated bolts. 

That said, it may still be below the waterline, but not much. 

I think I’ll take some actual measurements once she is out of the water this 
fall. 

 

Chuck 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 5:49 PM, Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Keel stepped is by definition below the waterline, but it certainly gives you a 
safe height (a couple of feet to spare).

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 5:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986) 

 

When my mast was removed this past Spring, they charged me by the foot, and 
measured 62’. Assuming the step is at the waterline and your instruments are 
under 2’ above the stick, 64’ is safe. That’s the number I go with. The 
Sakonnet River Bridge in Tiverton, RI claims 64’ at high tide, and we haven’t 
nicked it yet.  

Although I will say that first time made me a bit nervous. 

Hope that helps. 

 

Chuck B

C Tenacious

Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I taped a 100 foot tape to the top of a long stick then taped the bottom of the 
stick to a halyard, hoisted it so the top of the stick (and tape) was raised 
over the masthead and was even with the tallest thing on the mast (VHF 
antenna), then put the tape on the water.  This method should yield a result 
which is a couple inches longer than the actual draft. 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 2:31 PM joyce mango via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi- 

 

Really struggling to get exact measurement of our mast above waterline on C 
41 1986 (just the normal design model) to see if we could do the "Hatteras 
bypass" stretch of the ditch.   I'm thinking our air draft is 63 feet, approx, 
but don't want to hit our newly purchased boat's mast!   Anyone know how I can 
get a more exact measure - did the halyard thing, but measuring from mast to 
waterline seems impossibly imprecise

 

Thanks,

Joyce




L. Eleanor Joyce Mango 

joycemang...@gmail.com  

978.270.2991

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Take a look and listen at your boat.  My mast ends a good 2 feet below the 
waterline at the cabin sole in my estimation.  Try sounding the sides of your 
boat from the inside, you should hear a tonal difference at the waterline.

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: Chuck Borge  
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 6:12 PM
To: Neil Andersen 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

 

Now you’ve got me wondering...

Since the mast step shoe is at cabin sole level on the transverse grid 
structure, it’s well above the keel sump and associated bolts. 

That said, it may still be below the waterline, but not much. 

I think I’ll take some actual measurements once she is out of the water this 
fall. 

 

Chuck 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 5:49 PM, Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Keel stepped is by definition below the waterline, but it certainly gives you a 
safe height (a couple of feet to spare).

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 5:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986) 

 

When my mast was removed this past Spring, they charged me by the foot, and 
measured 62’. Assuming the step is at the waterline and your instruments are 
under 2’ above the stick, 64’ is safe. That’s the number I go with. The 
Sakonnet River Bridge in Tiverton, RI claims 64’ at high tide, and we haven’t 
nicked it yet.  

Although I will say that first time made me a bit nervous. 

Hope that helps. 

 

Chuck B

C Tenacious

Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I taped a 100 foot tape to the top of a long stick then taped the bottom of the 
stick to a halyard, hoisted it so the top of the stick (and tape) was raised 
over the masthead and was even with the tallest thing on the mast (VHF 
antenna), then put the tape on the water.  This method should yield a result 
which is a couple inches longer than the actual draft. 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 2:31 PM joyce mango via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi- 

 

Really struggling to get exact measurement of our mast above waterline on C 
41 1986 (just the normal design model) to see if we could do the "Hatteras 
bypass" stretch of the ditch.   I'm thinking our air draft is 63 feet, approx, 
but don't want to hit our newly purchased boat's mast!   Anyone know how I can 
get a more exact measure - did the halyard thing, but measuring from mast to 
waterline seems impossibly imprecise

 

Thanks,

Joyce




L. Eleanor Joyce Mango 

joycemang...@gmail.com  

978.270.2991

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I am interested to know does the Flex-o-Fold or other options discussed open 
with centrifugal force or is it based on the prop shaft motion?

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

 

I sail in an area with lots of crab pots when in season--which appears to be 
most of the year--and I have a Gori 2 blade folder which has worked well for 
me. It was purchased for racing.

 

I have never tangled with a pot that got wrapped in or around my prop. OTOH, I 
don't see where a folder would do any better than a fixed blade in that 
situation. 

 

I am probably missing something--could you enlighten me and the list?

 

Charlie Nelson 

1995 C 36 36XL/kcb 

Water Phantom 

 

 

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bruce.whitmo...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Wed, Sep 25, 2019 1:15 pm
Subject: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

Hello all, 

 

I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but given the 
recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd like to 
re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely in my 
future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail in an 
area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  For that 
reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the rather well 
put together article in which a test of folding and feather props was performed 
- the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.  

 

By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are recommending a 3 
blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two blade prop, that may 
not apply to me.

 

With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a folding/feathering 
prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?

 

Looking forward to your insights,

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C/40+

"Astralis"

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

So what are people’s thoughts on these comparison articles / analysis…

 

https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/why-low-drag-propellers

 

https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 3:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

 

Note that the "J Prop" is pitch adjustable while installed on the boat so it 
can be fine tuned for pitch while it is installed.

Ken H.

On Wednesday, 25 September 2019, Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com> > wrote:
> Hi Bruce,
>
> Our boat was built with a Universal diesel but was re-powered in 2001 by a 
> previous Quebec City owner.  He wanted more horse power to fight the St. 
> Lawrence River currents and tides so we now have a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE diesel.  
> This is a 47 hp. Turbo with a 3 blade feathering "J Prop", prop made in 
> Italy.  Nice combination.  Lots of go, plenty of reverse.  We're at about 
> 1100 hrs. on this combination, 400 we put on ourselves over the last 10 years.
>
> I'd buy another J Prop if I needed one.
>
> Ken H.
>
> https://www.betamarinenc.com/j-prop/
>
> https://ca.binnacle.com/p10220/J-Prop-Variable-Pitch-Propeller/product_info.html
>
> On Wednesday, 25 September 2019, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but given the 
>> recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd like to 
>> re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely in my 
>> future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail in an 
>> area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  For 
>> that reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the rather 
>> well put together article in which a test of folding and feather props was 
>> performed - the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.  
>> By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are recommending a 3 
>> blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two blade prop, that 
>> may not apply to me.
>> With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a folding/feathering 
>> prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?
>> Looking forward to your insights,
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C/40+
>> "Astralis" 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C Inspection

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I defer to Rob on structural questions, but I have been told by good
surveyors that it is not just what the moisture meter says, but a
combination of three (3) factors; moisture meter, sounding and deformation.
Just 1 of the 3 tell-tale items is not sufficient to indicate an issue.

 

I just had a boat that showed moderate moisture content (on one of the new
style meters) when it was used to go over where a hose was run inside the
boat along side of the hull.  The meter was picking up water in the hose.

 

Picking a good surveyor is key!

 

BTW - a bit of trivia - many good new boats don't use balsa coring anymore,
but are using a synthetic material that won't rot or attract wildlife.  The
new material also addresses the termite issue that boats in the South
Pacific are seeing.

 

Neil Andersen, ASA 107, Yacht Broker

FoxFire, 1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD




 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rob Ball via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 1:09 PM
To: Matthew L. Wolford ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rob Ball 
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C Inspection

 

I'm interested in the details of the 'problem' . . . .

The ones I've seen have come from installation of thru-hulls where water got
to the balsa surrounding it and then migrated from there  . . .

 

We bought a moisture meter at the plant and went about testing a lot of
different boats - new and old  . . . . We found moisture in strange places
and also on very old boats as well . . .

But then eventually decided that YUP, there's moisture there  . . . .

The boats didn't break or seem any weaker or anything . . . . Since there
are paths all around the 2 inch squares of balsa, water can move around
easily.  Structurally we've been told that with 40 % of a square connected
to the two skins, the structure is virtually not changed - so our squares
that were probably 95 % connected were still a very conservative structural
sandwich.

Our bottom line - yes moisture isn't probably the best - but in most
instances not a serious enough problem to affect a repair . . .

On decks, we see problems when the wetness extends more thoroughly and often
does indeed get to the point that the structure breaks down . . .

 

Rob BallC 34

From: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > 
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C Inspection

 

Steve:

 

I can speak to the balsa core issue.  The 34 is cored below the
waterline, and the boat should be hauled for a hull survey with a moisture
meter.  My 1978 34 had a problem and was repaired by a prior owner.  My 1976
42 also has the same problem.  Do not buy the boat until this issue is
addressed to your complete satisfaction.

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 10:59 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   ;
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Neil Andersen   ; Stephen McCarthy
  

Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C Inspection

 

Steve,

 

Your concern of moisture penetration and delamination is what a good
surveyor is for.

 

The engine is a different issue.  Most surveyors will only check that the
engine runs properly, at a good temperature and will optionally do an oil
analysis (I would recommend you get that done).   More than that typically
requires a certified Yanmar mechanic.

 

Neil Andersen, Yacht Broker

1982 C 32 FoxFire

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Nav App for my iPad

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

If you are signed in to the Apple Store with an Apple ID, you may find that 
re-loading your software (at least some of it) is automatic if you back up to 
iCloud.

 

I am a die-hard PC user, but was quite nicely surprised that when I upgrade or 
add a new Apple device, much of my “stuff” follows along…

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Nav App for my iPad

 

I really like AquaMap—I mainly use it for route planning.  I don’t like to use 
my iPad where it could be exposed to water, like in the cockpit.  You might 
want to look on eBay for a newer iPad.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

email: dainyr...@icloud.com  


On Jul 19, 2019, at 2:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bear with me for a moment while I explain my situation and get to my question.

 

I have an older iPad that gets used for several things, including backup for 
the Garmin plotter on my own boat and an alternate to the plotters on OPB’s 
when I’m doing deliveries. The iPad has the older Garmin Blue Chart Mobile App 
(with charts updated to spring 2018) with older Active Captain data (very 
useful when on the ICW, but can’t be updated in Blue Chart Mobile), Predict 
Wind, Drag Queen, and some other navigation stuff. When not on a boat I use the 
pad as an e-reader, to get email occasionally, to check the weather, etc.

 

I’m not sure what generation of iPad it is, but it is old enough that it has 
the wide Apple connection and not the new one introduced with the iPhone 5 or 6 
several years ago. The operating system is IOS 9.3.5, but because of the age of 
the device I can’t upgrade to a higher version of IOS.

 

I’d like to update/upgrade the charts, but the Garmin App that replaced Blue 
Chart Mobile (and includes the new Active Captain software) requires IOS 10 or 
higher. I looked at iNAVX, but that also requires IOS 10 or higher. I would 
need to buy a newer iPad (though a friend suggested going to a local pawn shop 
to save on the cost) and reload all my other stuff – which I’d like to avoid.

 

I’ve heard positive comments about Aqua Map, which contains AC data and uses 
Explorer charts, and has very good reviews on the App Store. The Navionics 
Marine and Lakes app is recently updated (I think Garmin bought Navionics and 
now uses those charts for the Garmin app and plotters), and has a lot of 
features like automated (?) route planning, but has a lower average review than 
Aqua Map. Either will run on the IOS 9 that I have on my iPad.

 

So my question is (or maybe that should be questions are):

 

Can anyone comment on experience with Navionics or Aqua Map?

 

Can anyone suggest a good alternative App that will run on my iPad and let me 
update my cahrts for the east coast and Bahamas?

 

Thanks for your comments/suggestions.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [AIS] List Recruitment

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I'm a Yacht Broker (don't yell) and try to talk up the list when I see
fellow C'ers.  We should have a template for "business cards" with sign-up
instructions and other details that can be left on C boats or with their
owners if any of us come across someone.

 

What does everyone think.  I think it should be something we could
standardize.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
20691 Jamieson Rd, 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

315-707-7905 (home)

484-354-8800 (cell)

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

LinkedIn:  
www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2019 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Stus-List AIS list recruitment

 

I was headed North towards Kent Narrows and saw what looked like another

35 MK I headed south. The AIS said she was "Mr Bubbles", so I gave a call
and got an answer. She is a 1972 35 MK I from Rock Hall. I told them to sign
up for the list - hope to see them here.

 

 

Joe

 

Coquina

 

 

___

 

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Ray,

 

I’m sure it was a Wilcox-Critten.  I had the same issue and the Jabsco doesn’t 
work with the way the studs are on a #@.  Luckily I still had the old toilet 
and was able to clean it up, get a new seat (West Marine for $66-YIKES) and 
re-build kits are still available.

 

If the old toilet is gone or beyond rebuild, you may have to resort to eBay, or 
other Internet places that have “used” ones.

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Raymond Macklin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2019 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin 
Subject: Stus-List Toilet Replacement

 

Hello:

 

I have a 1985 C 33 and i am looking to replace the manual  toilet.  I want to 
replace it with one that has the same foot print for fastening it.  Does anyone 
know what i can replace it with to match and where could locate one?  The old 
paperwork indicates it might have been a W.C Marin Marine Toilet 

 

Thanks

Ray 

LakeHouse

Milwaukee, WI 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Jim,

 

I think your friend is overly pessimistic.  We are not seeing that kind of
differential on boats here on the east coast where my firm operates (MD, VA,
SC, FL).

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall MD

 

Full disclosure, I am a Yacht Broker

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of jim aridas via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jim aridas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

 

The market for auxiliary sail is SO soft. For 25k you can get a really great
turn key boat. Most boats are selling for 1/2 of asking price, as per a
friend who owns a yacht brokerage company out of Central NJ.

Jim

Galaxy 34

Get Outlook for Android  

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of rjcasciato--- via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:28:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns 

 

Shawn, I agree with Bruce..
Let this one go
If you're retired, then you are already operating on "Life Minutes "
Don't spend them of stuff like this

Ron
Impromptu
C 38 MKII
1977.

My boat looks and races like it just came out of the mold.you don't want
to know how much time and money that takes. 



Sent from Xfinity Connect Application


-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  
Sent: 2019-04-24 7:24:48 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

Hi Shawn,

 

Realistically,  I think you should walk away  from that boat.  There are
just too many owner modifications that have not been done by someone who
knows what they are doing in a marine environment.  Consider finding the
right boat, even at a distance in the right condition at the right price,
even if you have to have it trucked to you.  You'll end up spending the
equivalent cost to move the boat just getting this one in proper shape, and
you'll avoid a lot of heartburn.

 

When we bought our boat, we knew that the fresh water, propane, and charging
system all had issues, the sail covers desperately needed to be replaced,
and while kept relatively clean it had basically sat at the dock for years.
However the boat was basically sound, having had a lot of professional
upgrades added 8 years earlier.  Two years later, we have a great boat, but
our project list has now exceeded 200 individual small projects, we're down
to 22 short term and 15 long term (mostly to be done at haulout).  Yet, last
weekend I found another where a wire leading out from the battery charger
had corroded due to poor installation.  That, in turn is driving me to add a
3rd battery to the house bank while I'm at it...  And, though I enjoy
working on my boat, I'm getting a little tired seeing a list with some of
the same items still staring at me 24 months in.  

 

There's no way I would intentionally buy a boat that I think might need to
be fully rewired.  Good wire and connectors add up more quickly than you
think, and that's one of those jobs that will require a LOT gymnastics
inside of tight places!

 

Sorry to be the downer here, but you're asking for opinions...

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 C 37/40+"Astralis "

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

A friend of mine places a small rope to act as a wick to get the last little 
bit.  Seems to work well for him.

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

 

A friend does exactly this on his C 35 Mk.1 and has been doing it for years.  
Works well.

 

Ken H.

 

On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 08:24, dwight veinot via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my 35 
MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the depressions 
between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength where the keel 
bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to allow water to flow 
forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall i drill a 1/2 inch hole 
angled downward from the inside port side at the lowest spot between one pair 
of these strength members and every spring I clean the inside of that hole with 
sand paper followed by a wssh with an acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a 
small wood plug in to about 1/8 inch depth from the outside and use a syringe 
filled with thickened epoxy from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up 
to avoid entrapped air. When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over 
the epoxy but because the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about 
an inch long the epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood 
plug, fair with a dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My 
prefered way to avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a 
lot of work either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 
years of doing it this way no complaints or problems. 

 

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with 
great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve 
but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in 
the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel 
is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was 
marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel 
joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located.  Drilled a 
pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An 
improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole 
and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This 
kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on 
this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of 
the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well.

 

Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA

 


I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought wouldn?t 
connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very strong magnets 
at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of where I thought the 
lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the Inside Magnet!

Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking a 
blind chance.
Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Traveler improvement, C 37/40+

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

My cam cleats are right at the traveler (which is cabin-top on a C).  I use 
a continuous line that is long enough to bring back to the binnacle.  An 
neighbor convinced me to try it and I would not do anything different – ever.  
It allows me to control the traveler from the helm most of the time.  If I am 
racing and have sufficient crew, I can just drop the “loop” into the 
companionway so a crew member can adjust.

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:43 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Traveler improvement, C 37/40+

 

Hello all,

 

The traveler on our '94 C 37/40+ is really kind of a pain.  The original unit 
has 4 sheeves with a cam cleat on each side (two sheeves on the sliding 
traveler part, and two mounted in the end caps to the track).

 

Originally when I got the boat, the line then went to a cheek block mounted to 
the side of the cockpit, and then to a second cam cleat (which seemed to make 
no sense to me).  I removed that block and cam cleat, and at least I can pull 
and lock line without working it through two cam cleats.  

 

The problem is that when the boat was built, teak decking was put in the 
cockpit, raising it up to the bottom of the cam cleat and when seat cushions 
are in place, it makes it difficult to lock the line into the cam cleat.  I 
have tried raising/putting wedges under the cam cleat to get better access 
above the seat cushions, but that increases friction through the first block.

 

have any of you had similar issues, and what did you do about it?  

 

Thanks for your insights,

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

What about wrapping something like paper (grocery store bag thickness) around 
the mast before using the Spartite?   Something like mast, lube paper, 
Spartite, boat??

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Full disclosure – I am a yacht broker with S Yachts

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2019 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

Yes.  The line I use to pull the stick is substantial, but it stretches a bit.  
The first time I pulled the mast after installing Spartite, the line stretched 
before the plug “let go.”  The mast jumped about a foot, like a big-ass pogo 
stick.  Very unnerving.

 

As I noted earlier, the bigger problem for me has been getting the stick 
re-aligned so the plug fits correctly when putting the mast back on.  This may 
take some fine adjustments, which takes time, and your help may lose patience – 
especially if you’re splitting the crane time.  In my view, this is the biggest 
downside of Spartite.

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2019 5:40 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Rod Stright   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

Anyone have any problem with the Spartite  stick against the mast collar when 
hauling the mast out?

 

Rod Stright

Halifax

 

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Very true, but you do need cell or Wi-Fi coverage if you need to download maps, 
etc.  What about integrating AIS or other apps like Windy, NOAA weather, etc.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

n...@sjyachts.com  

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

 

Tom

 

No. You don’t need to activate the cell plan. The GPS antenna is shared with 
the cell antenna in the iPad. 

 

On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 7:51 PM T power via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi,

I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.

 

I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that has 
cellular capability.

 

So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc... 

 

So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only using 
the cellular for the Navionics app?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

 

Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

The provider decision should be based on who has the best coverage for the
areas that you sail in.  I'm on the Chesapeake Bay (Eastern Shore) and AT
coverage is really bad unless and until you get in range of the Western
Shore.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

n...@sjyachts.com  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T power via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

 

Hi,

I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use
for nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper
charts.

 

I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that
has cellular capability.

 

So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT, Verizon, etc... 

 

So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only
using the cellular for the Navionics app?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

 

Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Just as important, when you are done, reset the combination to something far 
from the actual combo (not just the 1st or last digit) and something you will 
remember to see if the lock has been open.  I always re-set my combo’s to a 
specific value and can often tell if someone has been aboard.

 

As a broker, I am seeing a number of boats left unlocked after marinas have 
pulled the boats out of the water.

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32

FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Combination padlocks

 

If you don’t want your combo to be well known to anyone who ever worked on 
boats, don’t use 19XX. I used to have about 40 combinations on file and about 
35 of them were 19XX.

My old Arbus (Abus?) is doing OK after many years.

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 2:52 PM
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Combination padlocks

 

First, a general note.  When I had my marine repair business, I recommended to 
my clients that they have a combination lock for access to the boat.  Doesn't 
do much good if the boat is sinking and folks can't get into your boat because 
the key is with you miles away.  A phone call to get the combo granting entry 
to fix the problem can save your boat.

 

OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4 digit 
combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee K0436 4 digit 
combination locks.  I have several on Touche'.  They are 20+ years old and work 
great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks are OK also.

 

The Master lock version is OK except the dials spin way too easily.  You have 
to hold the numbers that you just set to keep them in place while you set the 
next number.  It's irritating. 

 

However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands, I seems like 
both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their locks.  Has any lister purchased 
a Sesamee in the last couple years that can shed light on the current 
manufacturing quality?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone missing a boat? Ghost boat in the Gulf

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Both have the same name and the one adrift in the Gulf has Solomon Islands, MD 
on the transom…

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2018 8:09 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Anyone missing a boat? Ghost boat in the Gulf

 

 

https://www.wkrg.com/news/northwest-florida/sailboat-adrift-off-coast-near-panama-city/1599679664
 

Could be this boat?

http://www.justsailboats.com/sailboats/details/Sabre-34-cruiser-sailboat-for-sale-Solomons-Island-Maryland-USA-16616

 

Joe

Coquina

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I would also suggest you put in a good Biocide...

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 - FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD 21661
neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
+++
Save money and the environment.
Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

Get a vacuum gauge! I have found that to be an invaluable tool to diagnose
fuel system issues.
Examples here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Racor-30-0HG-Vacuum-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Restriction-
Gauge-1-8-NPT-Threaded-Back/221688849829?hash=item339daf65a5:g:9LwAAOSwkxRaw
Eho:sc:USPSFirstClass!21235!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Gauge-Kit-Panel-Mount/dp/B078H5994K/ref=sr_1_8
?ie=UTF8=1542223695=8-8=racor+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Utility-Vacuum-Pressure-Blk-Steel/dp/B00VQSP2XA/r
ef=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8=1542223740=8-4=vacuum+gauge



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 153, Issue 102

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

What make are your other instruments?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Lee Rosenbaum
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2018 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 153, Issue 102

Chris:

Inexpensive is relative.
I installed a B Vulcan Chart Plotter 3 years ago and it is fantastic.
It is truly designed for the sailor.  Pulls in all my other wind & boat data
as well.

Lee
Kookaburra
1985 C 33 MKII
Kenosha, WI

-Original Message-
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2018 12:13:27 + (UTC)
From: Chris Graham 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter
Message-ID: <315634372.98516.1539951207...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

So I'm a bit torn over what to do here, the boat has a mount for an iPad and
the past owner use the iPad with Navigation apps and I am tempted to go that
route, but I know that iPads have their drawbacks with visibility due to
glare, limited functions and are not designed to withstand the harsh
elements of the marine environment.
I really don't need much so I am probably leaning toward the ipad due to
cost, but if I were to consider a small dependable unit what suggestions
might you have for me? There are too many choices to scroll through on the
internet and it leaves me more confused than when I first started the
search. What models have you had success with?
Chris


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

My holding tank on a 1982 C was under the Vee berth and made by Kracor
(sp??).  When I bought the boat in 1999, the tank was imploded and I was
lucky enough to have Kracor make mw a new one.  I understand they won't do
that now, but it is worth asking.

Neil
1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Brad Crawford
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 10:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

Go visit marine sanitation supply next to fisheries supplies, they can help
you out.

Brad
Dora  Pearl
C 36
Seattle

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 31, 2018, at 1:55 PM, Dave. via CnC-List 
wrote:
> 
> SLY has been using a Type 1 Sanitation System but these are no longer
legal in Puget Sound so we need to install a holding tank. Yuck! I looked in
our original C manual and found a 15.5 gallon holding tank listed. Not
sure if these were standard issue or an option but SLY did not come to us
with a holding tank. So my questions are:
> 1. Where were the holding tanks installed? 
> 2. What were there configuration? Dimensions?
> 3. Are these units or similar units available and from whom?
> Thanks again for your collective thoughts.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Think about the little FRS radios (LINK1 

 ) with headsets? (LINK2 

 ).

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

 

Thanks guys,

 

I still haven't decided if it's any use to attempt the dual use the VHF radios 
as "marriage savers" type walkie talkies. Off Shore on the lowest power setting 
on un-monitored channels like 68 we're probably fine, however if 
anchoring/mooring we'll be near enough to shore stations that we might get 
picked up. Transmissions like "reverse, and a little throttle" is probably 
abusing the VHF airspace and interfering with other activity.

 

I think bluetooth earpieces make more sense- also are smaller and cheaper.

 

Dan

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 33-2 Mast step chocks and shims

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

What size tubing do you use from the mast step plate to the bilge?

 

Neil

1982 C – FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of syerdave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2018 5:15 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: syerdave 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 Mast step chocks and shims

 

Per a recent discussion, photos of same.

 

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2018/06/mast-step-chocks-and-shims.html

 

Dave 33-2 Windstar

 

 

Sent from my Galaxy Tab A (2016)

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Capacity plate values for a 1984 C Mk III C/B

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I guess they figure the sailors of the world are a bit smarter and don’t 
overload as often…

 

Thanks  

 

Neil

 

From: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> 
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 1:11 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Neil E. Andersen <neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Capacity plate values for a 1984 C Mk III 
C/B

 

I don’t think I have ever seen one of those plates on a sailboat. 

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

No capacity plate and never did have one

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil E. 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 12:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Neil E. Andersen
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Capacity plate values for a 1984 C Mk III C/B

 

C Brethren and Sisterhood,

 

In my capacity as a Yacht Broker, I am about to list a 1984 C, but want to 
accurately reflect the capacity and passenger maximum for the boat.  I hope it 
is okay to ask if anyone on this list can assist?

 

Neil Andersen
1982 C FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Capacity plate values for a 1984 C Mk III C/B

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

C Brethren and Sisterhood,

 

In my capacity as a Yacht Broker, I am about to list a 1984 C, but want to 
accurately reflect the capacity and passenger maximum for the boat.  I hope it 
is okay to ask if anyone on this list can assist?

 

Neil Andersen
1982 C FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I think the word you are looking for is ARGH!

 

Sorry I couldn’t be more help.  It looks like C did the chain plate 
differently depending on the year & model.

 

Neil

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

 

Neil,

 

Those are great informative videos but unfortunately they don’t address the 
problem that both I and Chuck had/have. In both of those videos the top plate 
can be unbolted and lifted of, allowing access to the cut-outf. On our boats, 
that top plate is welded to, in my case, a massive single chainplate oriented 
in a fore-and-aft plane. The only way to get under that plate in order to fill 
the cut-out is to remove/lift the entire chainplate.

 

And the most egregious error is that they didn’t use butyl!  ;-)

 

Cheers,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 





On May 5, 2018, at 10:22 AM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Chuck and fellow listers,

 

Here is a YouTube video showing the re-bedding chain plates on an Island Packet 
that is quite detailed and shows some good information that is not specific to 
Island Packet.   <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-hf5607AI=6s> 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-hf5607AI=6s

 

Here is on with a C:  <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvpq_AA85N4> 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvpq_AA85N4 (starts around a minute in).

 

Sincerely,

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Full disclosure, I am now a Broker for S Yachts in Rock Hall, MD

 

Office: 410 639-2777 or 410 571-3605
Cell: 484-354-8800
Email: n...@sjyachts.com <mailto:n...@sjyachts.com> 
Website: www.sjyachts.com <http://www.sjyachts.com/> 




From: CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 4, 2018 11:12 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Chuck S < <mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> cscheaf...@comcast.net>
Subject: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

 

What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck.  The boats built 
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the 
joint without removing the whole assembly.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Chuck and fellow listers,

 

Here is a YouTube video showing the re-bedding chain plates on an Island Packet 
that is quite detailed and shows some good information that is not specific to 
Island Packet.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-hf5607AI 
 =6s

 

Here is on with a C: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvpq_AA85N4 (starts 
around a minute in).

 

Sincerely,

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Full disclosure, I am now a Broker for S Yachts in Rock Hall, MD

 

Office: 410 639-2777 or 410 571-3605
Cell: 484-354-8800
Email:   n...@sjyachts.com
Website:   www.sjyachts.com



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 4, 2018 11:12 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

 

What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck.  The boats built 
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the 
joint without removing the whole assembly.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Quiz Time!

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Also looking at the Baltic on sailboatdata, the rudder on the Baltic is a
space, the rudder on the boat in question has attachment points top and
bottom.

 

A Chinese knock-off?

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 1:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Quiz Time!

 

With a C cove stripe?  What's up with that?

At 05:52 PM 5/4/2018, Edd Schillay wrote:



I think it’s a Baltic 38. 

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2459

All the best, 

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com  
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 4, 2018, at 8:42 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
 > wrote:

Check this out... https://bit.ly/2KFfI0a

Is this a C?

If so, where was it made?

Hint...USCG lists the hull number as TAC380500786!

Enquiring minds want to know!

Oh yeah, happy Opening Day!

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - me


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com   



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Glen,

 

Check out this video on YouTube.  It is for an Island Packet, but covers the 
process quite well.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-hf5607AI 
 =6s

 

Sincerely,

 

Neil Andersen - Broker



Office:  410 571-3605 or 410-639-2777

Cell: 484-354-8800

Email: n...@sjyachts.com  

Website: www.sjyachts.com  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

 

Can someone with a 35 mkI or II let me know the sealant used at the deck when 
rebedding a chainplate.  4000? 

 

Your assistance is much appreciated.  

  _  

 


Glen Eddie


Tel: 416-777-5357


Fax: 1-888-812-2557


ged...@torkinmanes.com  


VCard  


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
  torkinmanes.com

An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you. 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cove stripe and symbol

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Anyone know of a similar organization in the US for all things C?

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD 21661

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 9, 2018 8:36 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cove stripe and symbol

 

Holland Marine stocks the stars and the stripe tape.  I haven't bought any from 
them so cannot comment on the quality.

 

A link to the page is here: http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

 

...scroll down a bit

 

Ken H.

 

On 8 April 2018 at 17:46, DAVID R MOCNY via CnC-List  > wrote:

I did mine in 2012 and it still looks new.   I still have the leftover and just 
checked. I ordered 3/4 inch. It fit perfectly because it curves in to the 
groove.  I looked and the place is still in business.  Vinalstriping.com.  $34 
for a 150 foot roll.  For the stars, they sell 14 inch wide by the foot for $3 
a foot. I do not remember but probably got four feet. Cut into a foot for each 
star.  Covered the whole star and cut around the edges and had the stars done 
with no seams.   Get the premium vinal not the cheap stuff.  

 

David Mocny

37/40+

Obsession

Flowery Branch, Georgia

 

 

P.S.   Because of health reasons, we are selling our boat.

It is on sailboatlisting.com   if anyone is 
interested

 

 

 

On Sun, Apr 8, 2018 at 2:50 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List

 > wrote:

I am considering redoing the cove stripe on my boat as it is pretty faded.  I 
found a few old emails about this topic and both used vinyl tape.  One person 
used 1/2” tape and one 5/8” and I can see the logic for both.  Anyone done this 
more recently or have comments on  longevity?  How did you handle the symbol at 
the front (star?).  Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List flexible solar panel on hatch

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

You want to “isolate” different panels either through micro-inverters or at 
least diodes to keep the current flowing the right way.  A shadow on one panel 
will wreak havoc on a system of multiple panels if not done right.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD 21661

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kevin Benoit via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 9, 2018 7:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Benoit 
Subject: Re: Stus-List flexible solar panel on hatch

 

Be aware that any shadow on the panel greatly reduces it’s efficiency.  I’m not 
sure you’ll get much direct sunlight in that location.  

 

On Sun, Apr 8, 2018 at 3:47 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  > wrote:

I am considering putting a thin flexible solar panel on the companionway 
sliding hatch.  I have found ones that would fit, but I am unsure of how I 
would connect it.  The power cable would have to be able to move 3-4’ as the 
hatch slides open and closed and not catch on the hatch itself.  If anyone has 
done this, I would be curious how you handled ths problem.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- 

Kevin Benoit 225-205-2373 Sent from My IPhone 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Partnership buyout - without an agreement

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Andrew,

 

I am working as a Yacht Broker now and might be able to help.  If you reach out 
to me off-line (n...@sjyachts.com  ) with some basic 
information on the boat, I can check on what similar boats have been selling 
for.  What you and your partners do with that information is up to you.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
20691 Jamieson Rd, 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

315-707-7905 (home)

484-354-8800 (cell)

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

LinkedIn:   
www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Andrew Means via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2018 11:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means 
Subject: Stus-List Partnership buyout - without an agreement

 

Hey all -

 

I’ve been part of a boat partnership for the past 9 years with three of my 
friends. This partnership has lasted over a series of boats and we’ve had very 
few issues with the whole arrangement.

 

Presently however one of the partners is wishing to be bought out or to sell 
their share, just before a re-rigging project.

 

Since we don’t have an agreement in place we have to navigate these waters 
ourselves, but I wanted to see if you guys had experience or knew what the most 
common buyout arrangements (i.e. what agreement *might* we have signed had we 
signed one 9 years ago?). If we find a buyer we all like in short order then 
this may all go perfectly smoothly, but if we don’t I’d like to have advice for 
the best way(s) to proceed.

 

Andrew

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

All,

 

I don’t want to rain on people’s parade, but there are some details that are 
being overlooked or people are unaware of.

 

1.  When it comes to “Wi-Fi”, the standard is constantly evolving.  The 
latest standard 802.11ac or better utilizes both frequencies 5 & 2.4 as they 
are each suited for different environments and frequency range is needed for 
faster bandwidth.  Check out Wikipedia (not always an authority, but pretty 
good in this case) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11.


2.  Be very careful piggyback on someone else’s Wi-Fi.  While there should 
be some sort of statement allowing/disallowing surfing it, you could get caught 
up in a theft of service, especially if you “guess” at the password and 
succeed.  If you don’t have permission you could be in for an issue.  You also 
don’t want to accused (rightfully or not, intentionally or not) of infecting a 
system that you have “connected to” without permission.

 

Sincerely,

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 - FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD 21661

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Christopher via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2018 12:25 PM
To: Paul E 
Cc: John Christopher ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range

 

Hi Paul,

 

Are you running the cable inside your mast? Anything special there?

 

/J


On Feb 26, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Paul E  > wrote:

Hi,

 

About 3 yrs ago I installed a WiFi system with the Ubiquiti BULLET-M2-HP WiFi 
radio mounted on top of the mast.   These units are built for outdoor use and 
require no addition weather proofing.  My system has survived several tropical 
storms and a hurricane, and still works flawlessly.   I use it while cruising, 
and while most WiFi’s  are secure now a days, getting access has been a minor 
issue.  You will be surprised how many restaurants use their phone number for 
passwords.  Visiting an establishment is another easy way to obtain a WiFi 
password.   I once connect to wifi while anchored in an island cove several 
miles off shore from the source which was a RV park on shore.  

 

 That said, +90% of my use is at docks.   I have been to many marinas and clubs 
where the provided WiFi signal is too weak for reliable device use.  At our 
club, my phone and laptop don’t even see the club’s network.   But the bullet 
connects with no issue.

 

I built my system for about $100.  Most of the work is plug and play except for 
the initial configuration.   I have posted the details of my installation, 
including the configuration, on my blog.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WiFiWork

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On Feb 25, 2018, at 11:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

 

Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2018 08:52:58 -0500
From: John Christopher <  phygi...@gmail.com>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range
Message-ID: <  
c278bb91-53bf-4885-b268-b940bf40f...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi,

Has anyone installed an Omni WiFi antenna? If so;

- which model (ubiquity or otherwise), - - where did you install the antenna 
(Mast, Arch, etc)
- 2.4GHz or 5GHz
- What DBi (and actual range / strength are you getting).

We?ll be spending most of the summer on the boat (with kids) ?.

Any other information is appreciated.

Cassidy?s Free
LF 38, #155

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Darn inflation…  ☹

 

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
FoxFire - 1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe <j...@dellabarba.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

 

Moorings are more like $35 now!

Joe

Coquina

 

On 01/31/2018 01:44 PM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List wrote:

Don’t forget the mooring are (or at least used to be) $15/day with water taxi 
service that is only a couple of bucks per person.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
FoxFire - 1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/ 
<http://www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/> 

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 4:42 PM
To: C List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley  <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

 

*UPDATE*

 

So I went to Annapolis to scout marinas, moorings, and slips for rent.  It 
looks like the Annapolis City Docks are panning out as the best location.  
Great central location, shops and restaurants available.  Walking distance to 
nearly everything including to the US Naval Academy.  Plenty of power, water, 
bathhouse, showers, uber, lift, and parking .  The biggest downside is that 
because it is downtown there is a lot of foot traffic.  I checked about 
security and there is not much.  Then again there isn't much crime so  The 
showers are not much to write home about and there is no pool.  The majority of 
the space is side tie though there are some slips.  The price is $3.25 per foot 
and we will probably need reservations by March 31st.  All reservations will be 
handled by each individual with the harbormaster.  Once we finalize the dates 
and location I'll forward the contact info to you here.

 

I'm looking for feedback and a verbal confirmation from all interested boaters. 
 The survey results have about 30 respondents interested in coming and about 
half of those by boat.  I've taken extensive efforts to carefully select a date 
and location that maximizes the number of attendees.  I'd like to get agreement 
on dates and location within the next week.  I'd feel like a successful 
compromise has been reached if 10 people confirmed attendance by land and 10 by 
boat.

 

Respond by answering the survey below:

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/MYLWZR9

 

Thanks!

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Dec 10, 2017 11:35 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ok guys (and gals),

 

Sorry if this is a repeat.  It didn't look like my first email ever hit the 
server.

 

The dates for the Annapolis Sailboat show have been released as well as my 
work/vacation schedule for 2018.  You might remember that I had mapped the 
distances which people were willing to drive and boat.  The resulting area 
which attracted the most people was more or less a zone on the western shore of 
the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and Solomons.  We could get as many as 29 
people total and 13 by boat!

 

The dates which I'm looking at are October 1st through the 8th (this 
encompasses the sailboat show which is the 4th through the 8th) and October 
26th to the 1st.  If held during the later dates we can easily hold the 
rendezvous in Annapolis since dockage and mooring won't be a problem.  If held 
during the earlier dates (during the boat show) we could hold the rendezvous at 
nearby towns within a 30 minute drive of the boat show.  I'm personally leaning 
towards the later dates since Annapolis is such a great town to visit and has 
such good boating amenities; It would be nice if everyone had a chance to see 
it without the craziness of the boat show.  If during the boat show is the 
preference then I was thinking that maybe Herrington Harbor North or somewhere 
in Deal, MD would be nice.  For those who want to attend the boat show Deal is 
only a 30 minute drive.  I'm sure there are marinas elsewhere closer to 
Annapolis yet away from the crowds that I'm not aware of.  I'm eager to hear 
everyones thoughts and suggestions.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Don’t forget the mooring are (or at least used to be) $15/day with water taxi 
service that is only a couple of bucks per person.

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
FoxFire - 1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/ 
 

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 4:42 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

 

*UPDATE*

 

So I went to Annapolis to scout marinas, moorings, and slips for rent.  It 
looks like the Annapolis City Docks are panning out as the best location.  
Great central location, shops and restaurants available.  Walking distance to 
nearly everything including to the US Naval Academy.  Plenty of power, water, 
bathhouse, showers, uber, lift, and parking .  The biggest downside is that 
because it is downtown there is a lot of foot traffic.  I checked about 
security and there is not much.  Then again there isn't much crime so  The 
showers are not much to write home about and there is no pool.  The majority of 
the space is side tie though there are some slips.  The price is $3.25 per foot 
and we will probably need reservations by March 31st.  All reservations will be 
handled by each individual with the harbormaster.  Once we finalize the dates 
and location I'll forward the contact info to you here.

 

I'm looking for feedback and a verbal confirmation from all interested boaters. 
 The survey results have about 30 respondents interested in coming and about 
half of those by boat.  I've taken extensive efforts to carefully select a date 
and location that maximizes the number of attendees.  I'd like to get agreement 
on dates and location within the next week.  I'd feel like a successful 
compromise has been reached if 10 people confirmed attendance by land and 10 by 
boat.

 

Respond by answering the survey below:

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/MYLWZR9

 

Thanks!

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Dec 10, 2017 11:35 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Ok guys (and gals),

 

Sorry if this is a repeat.  It didn't look like my first email ever hit the 
server.

 

The dates for the Annapolis Sailboat show have been released as well as my 
work/vacation schedule for 2018.  You might remember that I had mapped the 
distances which people were willing to drive and boat.  The resulting area 
which attracted the most people was more or less a zone on the western shore of 
the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and Solomons.  We could get as many as 29 
people total and 13 by boat!

 

The dates which I'm looking at are October 1st through the 8th (this 
encompasses the sailboat show which is the 4th through the 8th) and October 
26th to the 1st.  If held during the later dates we can easily hold the 
rendezvous in Annapolis since dockage and mooring won't be a problem.  If held 
during the earlier dates (during the boat show) we could hold the rendezvous at 
nearby towns within a 30 minute drive of the boat show.  I'm personally leaning 
towards the later dates since Annapolis is such a great town to visit and has 
such good boating amenities; It would be nice if everyone had a chance to see 
it without the craziness of the boat show.  If during the boat show is the 
preference then I was thinking that maybe Herrington Harbor North or somewhere 
in Deal, MD would be nice.  For those who want to attend the boat show Deal is 
only a 30 minute drive.  I'm sure there are marinas elsewhere closer to 
Annapolis yet away from the crowds that I'm not aware of.  I'm eager to hear 
everyones thoughts and suggestions.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stove

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Mine was alcohol which I deposited into a dumpster.  Still have the pressurized 
alcohol cylinder on the boat.  I’ll get around to removing it eventually  J

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
20691 Jamieson Rd, 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

315-707-7905 (home)

484-354-8800 (cell)

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

LinkedIn:   
www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 6, 2017 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
Subject: Stus-List Stove

 

Neil, all, I am searching for a good stainless PROPANE oven/stove for my 35-3.  
I tired of multiple attempts at torching my boat with the alcohol model and 
de-fused the beast.   If yours (or anyone else?) is propane, in good shape, and 
is for sale, could you let me know please?  Thanks!

 

 

Chuck Saur

 

(517)-490-5926

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Support

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Fellow Listers,

 

Is there an alternative to financially contribute to the list without using
PayPal.  They have been breached more than once and I won't take the risk
with that service.

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

___
 
The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
All contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauling costs?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Had my C trucked from MD to Syracuse for $2,500 last fall.  Trick is to 
work with the trucker and get on a dead head run (return trip).  That way the 
trucker is paid for both directions and will typically give you a good break on 
the price.

 

Neil

Foxfire 1982 C

(going back to MD)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 6:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauliiing costs?

 

I agree its not a deal breaker...I had my 37 trucked from Newburyport 
Massachusetts to Louisville, KY about 3 years ago...cost was about $3700.00 
more or less

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Sent: Sat, Aug 5, 2017 1:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase. (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.) Leslie.  On Tue, 
8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote: Subject: 
Stus-List 35 - 3 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM Hello All, I have 
owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and cruised with her 
extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the Middle Atlantic states. 
18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta, multiple club championships. 
Multiple NJ offshore racing conference firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in 
C worlds. This summer, in two major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd 
(by 5 seconds!). A safe, dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to 
California and it is too expensive to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of 
the nicest 35-3 available. Needs nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively 
being used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info. 
Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again ___ 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 
___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset 
our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I would recommend Annapolis Rigging.  They are experience with Navtec and were 
able to test all my rigging after a boat yard incident with another boat (long 
story).  Their evaluation was acceptable to the insurance company based on 
their standing with Navtec.

 

You can reach them via the owner at j...@annapolisrigging.com.

 

Neil

FoxFire, 1982 C 32

Between locations

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 8:53 AM
To: Jim
Cc: Kevin Paxton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

 

They do that too I'm pretty sure. I had them do a survey of my rigging and they 
came out to me.

 

On Tue, May 16, 2017, 8:30 AM Jim  wrote:

Thanks Kevin. That's one I saw. Unlike you, I will need some to travel to the 
boat since need someone to do some work on the forestay and furling systems.

Sent from my iPhone


On May 15, 2017, at 1:40 PM, Kevin Paxton  wrote:

I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty 
satisfied with their service.

https://theriggingco.com/

 

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi group:

I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I reached 
out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who have a 
great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will be able to 
get my repairs done and use my boat.

There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5 hours 
away,  but I don't know who to contact.

Anybody on this list have a recommendation?

Thanks
Jim
S/V Strong Tower
C 29-1
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!